Where would one get a ferrite ring?

http://www.deeteeenterprises.com/NS....rriteRings.php

http://www.allerc.com/product_info.php?products_id=2609

One could get one from the above links. I would buy from allerc.com they are 3 dollars cheaper than deetee. 1.99 vs 4.99

Another solution for glitches.....buy a dx7.

I haven't had a single problem with glitching on my dx7. I was amazed, servos always sitting quietly waiting for input. I used to see all kinds of funny activity from planes and my axe on the fm, never had a ferrite ring.

The ACE bl-40 esc in my mini-titan came with one installed. It was there until I piled it in on the left side, the crash actually broke the ferrite ring in half (I think it took a good bit of the impact).

i updated to cnc canopy mounting too , much stronger, never bent
http://www.cnchelicopter.com/servlet...325-cnc/Detail

Those cnc cano mounts are on my list of things to pick up. I haven't broken one yet (the plastic ones), but I actually trimmed out my canopy a little better than what the stock cutouts look like so it doesn't really require much force to get it on and isn't pulling on the mounts while installed.

The carbon tail fin is a must have imo, I broke at least 4 of the cheap plastic ones before finally saying enough and paying the 20 dollars for the carbon version. Haven't broken one since.

Ok, I know there have been a few people (including myself) with a few issues recently with programming issues and the whole "hard left" thing. After pulling out my hair and almost crashing a few times I finally decided to scrap the mixing unit/gyro and tail servo that came pre-installed on the ARF and I went with a 401 and JR DS3400g tail servo (it's what we had in stock at the LHS I work at) and boy, what a difference! The tail was soooooo painfully sloooowwww before, it was like it was getting hung up and binding. The new system has fixed all problems as of right now and she flies nice. I'm still not doing any 3D so I'm not pushing it, but I'm just glad it works now.

My official review to anyone reading this that is thinking of buying the Mini Titan... do NOT buy the ARF that has the servos and mixing unit/gyro pre-installed. Go for the kit or the standard ARF with just the motor and speed control.

Agree with you, jwk72, but I'll take it one further: if you want to really fly it hard, just skip the included electronics altogether, and get a bare kit, no motor, no nothing. Stock it with good electronics and a strong motor and you'll be happy.

Good posts fellas, I skipped the arf and bought the kit with motor and esc. The esc and motor combo have worked good for me and shouldn't dissapoint. I did add the axi cooler to the stock ripper and that has all the temps in check. Performance is good out of the stock stuff with a good setup, not ballistic.

If I had it to do again, I might skip the electronics. Get a castle esc and jgf500 or jgf 450 depending on preference. Lotsa motors out there worth trying I'm sure but the jgf was pretty good on price, amazing on weight, and looks nice.

@redvtr1000 where did you get the axi cooler?

The stock motor (obl...) just get´s too hot, i´m not even pushing it hard and i can smell the wires melting

The MT SE is out. Amainhobbies has it for $399

my Ripper didn't get too hot, but I did want more power. I've used a JGF 500 (substantially more power, runs cool, efficient) and currently a Scorpion HK2221-8 (still runs cool, incrementally more power still, uses moderately more juice). The Ace ESC is actually working pretty well, but I'd be happier with a Phoenix 45- more control/programmability.

Patatchim, I bought the axi cooler from tower hobbies I believe. Search around for it here on rcu to figure out exactly which one you want as there are two sizes. I am pretty sure this is the correct one right here, just wouldn't want you to buy it and have it be the larger of the two. http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXPRB1&P=7

You have to dremel a few of the fins on it to get it to fit (as it wasn't intended for the ripper) but it won't take more than a couple minutes and makes quite a difference. I can't even get my electronics to warm up now, GA summers get hot though and that is when I bought it.

I picked up a JGF500th not long back, small little motor that is powerful and efficient, what pinion did you run Osterizer?

Just looked at the se on amainhobbies. Definitely sharp looking. Makes me want to go home and install all my blinged out parts that I have sitting in a box.

IIRC, it was an 11T- gave a good solid 2800. That was on the 3400 kV version, btw- older ones were 3000 kV. That probably would have gotten me into a 12.

BTW, if you're interested, my first airborne vid from the Titan is here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=K4o_GZ6x6mE. Flying isn't too exciting, a lot of trimming and feeling it out, but a couple of flips, some FFF, and I think the wind noise when it gets going fast is pretty cool . Also did a couple of piros in normal at 2400, then again in idle up at 2800- difference in piro rate is pretty striking. [edit] As is how hard the tail control is with the 401 and 9650 in both flight modes . [/edit]

I had been told to use no less than 14t on it, I bought a 12 and 13t, tried the 12 and it isn't bad at all imo. I need to tweek my curves better. Really haven't had much time to play with it lately though, seems every chance I get to do anything heli, I am working on the raptor. For a beginner, there really is so much to pick up on when making the jump to nitro.

Got it all together but every time I think I am done, I find one more thing I ought to do. Just bought a switchglo for it, figured that ought to be a good thing to have (I'm no crazy 3d pilot trying to save weight, flipping the switch for glo power is a cool idea for me). I ran out of open channels on the rx though so I had to order one of those servo reversers and a y harness....got the stuff I need to finish that coming now (be here monday) so I should have some time to get my MT back in the air this week/end.

BTW, nice video. You are up on me...I haven't had the stones for a flip with my MT yet. Don't know why I haven't tried, probably b/c it just feels so different than the sim. It aint for fear of piling it in, God knows I have done that enough to get over it.

Well I finally got it to hover. I still have a little tweaking and gyro gain adjusting to do but should have it flying good by the end of the day. What a job it is to set this up. I haven't tried to hover it yet but on my Hurricane 550 all I had to do was reverse one servo and it was good to go. Maybe it just seemed easier the second time around but I'm thinking maybe Thunder Tiger should call this Benny Hill CCPM instead of Bell Hiller.

Hey guys Im brand new the the whole R/C helicopters. And I have Already bought a Mini Titan E325. I Have the speed Controller And A Spektrum DX6 Remote with a AR6000 Receiver, and the S75 Micro Servos. What i need to know is what servos plug into what on the receiver. And I dont have a motor or gyro yet. This is where you guys come in. I have no idea what gyro and motor to get for a beginner. If someone can help me out with the servos and the receiver issue i have it would be appreciated. And also suggestions for the motor and gyro.

Thanks guys.

Hey guys Im brand new the the whole R/C helicopters. And I have Already bought a Mini Titan E325. I Have the speed Controller And A Spektrum DX6 Remote with a AR6000 Receiver, and the S75 Micro Servos. What i need to know is what servos plug into what on the receiver. And I dont have a motor or gyro yet. This is where you guys come in. I have no idea what gyro and motor to get for a beginner. If someone can help me out with the servos and the receiver issue i have it would be appreciated. And also suggestions for the motor and gyro.

Thanks guys.

I can't help you much with the servos and receiver, I've got a Futaba 6EX and Hitec HS65's in mine. What ESC do you have? Any old brushless outrunner with a 3.17mm shaft will do. Just make sure the max output doesn't exceed the rating of your ESC. I've got a Scorpion 4400kv in mine and it's just waaaaay to much power and it eats juice like you wouldn't believe, I get about three minutes out of a 2200mAh pack and I've never had it above half throttle so if you are a beginner I wouldn't go much above 3500kv. I have an Align RCE 500X (Telebee) gyro in mine and it seems to work fine but I never intentionally fly backwards and I NEVER fly backwards really really fast.

Ok I have An Li-Polymer 2200 Mah/ 11.1V Thunder Power Battery. I have An Ace RC ESC Brushless Motor BLC-40. 40A I dont know if that helps you but thats what it says.

A 40A ESC will just about cover any motor there is with a 3.17 shaft. Just go to helidirect and pick one you like that's in your price range. I don't know if it's standard procedure but my aileron servo is plugged into channel 1, elevator in channel 2, ESC into channel 3, gyro in channel 4, gyro gain in channel 5 and cyclic in channel 6. Same on my Hurricane 550 and everything else I've got.

Ok this is gonna sound like a total newb question. but i have 1 servo on each side of the swash and 1 on the rear of the swash plus 1 for the rudder. what is each servo called on the swash. EI: alieron,elevator etc. I just dont know the diffrence for the servos on the swash so if u could help me out with that it would help me out.

No problem, I'm new and had trouble with that to. As you view the heli from the rear the servo on the right is the aileron servo, the one on the left is called aux, together they make up the cyclic control. The one on the back is the elevator and the one mounted on the tail is the rudder. The mini titan has what they call leading links on the grips, which is just the opposite of most ccpm helis, when the swash comes down it increases pitch, usually when it goes up it increases pitch. When you give it right aileron stick the aileron servo should come down and the aux servo should go up, when you give it left aileron the aileron servo should go up and the aux servo should come down. When you give it up (forward) elevator the elevator servo should go up and both cyclic servos should come down. When you give it down elevator (back) just the opposite should happen. When you increase the throttle in normal mode (not idle up) all three servos should pull the swash down.

Disclaimer - I learned most of what I know about it right here on this thread.

@InsideOut08:

I have a futaba receiver. These control the swash: channel 1 -> aileron (cyclic roll) , channel 2 -> elevator (cyclic pitch) , channel 6 -> pitch (collective pitch).
the rest of the channels: 4 -> rudder, 3 -> throtlle.
This heli is a 120º e-ccpm, the 3 servos will work together to control the swash, so you have to choose that kind of swash on your transmitter.

For a gyro, i would choose a Logictech 2100T, they are cheap and everybody seams to like it. (I don´t have it, but i´m going to upgrade to one)
For the motor, i share the same opinion of cactus hopper, i would just add: choose a motor -> go check what people say of it on the forums -> than buy it.

hope it helps

Insideout...

You can do what you want but I've messed with a lot of these helicopters between reviews and helping other people so what I'm going to tell you is based on a lot of personal experience.

Throw those s75 servos in a drawer and get some hs56hb's or even better hs-65mg's

Allright guys thanks alot for ur help the description you gave me for the servos on the swash will help me out alot. and as for the motor ill just see what my local hobbie shop reccomends. Uhmm well thats pretty much about it. thanks