http://www.modelbouw.gompy.net/cdi/P...ion-System.zip

I can walk you through it.

I'm trying a seperate inbetween board with an optocoupler output with an scr output to my trigger circuit..
If that doesn't work, I'll have to invert the pulse with a hex inverter chip like a 7404..many options now!

Hi Rob,

If you like I can write a article on how to go about copying and pasting the pic code in MC and produce the hex.

The optoisolator trigger to my circuit didn't work....neither did the 7404 hex inverter..back to square one trying to figure out why it doesn't trigger my hv circuit.[&o]
CH Synchro Spark works fine with mine...must be doing something wrong with the pulse I guess.. Oh well, maybe I'll go back to stamp collecting..Ha!

Update..!!
I have changed one resistor to a ground on my board in the trigger circuit and all is well! It fires mine now..

Rob, thanks for suggesting a component change to my board.

This weekend I draw a complete new set of CDI's and TCI's.
There is one timerboard and all HV and switch-boards are sepperated.
Within the next few days I putt everything on the website.

@Charlie, I can use Altavista Babelfish to translate most of my text but it's not *technical* english Babelfish making of.
A other problem will be......I never write a real howto, only short lines straight to the point.

Charlie im sure thats babelfish for "yes please"

It will help everyone indeed i am sure and quicker for the newbie to get under way

brett

Only the schematics and PCB's, no commands yet

http://www.electronics.gompy.net/cditci/

OK Brett I will see what I can do. Thanks for translating.

Rob,

I will just write a little something on how to use Mikro C.

Charlie, THX.
There are two versions of MicroC....old / new (2009) and only the new version can be downloaded form MicroC.

I just try the TCI-powerboard and the software.........PERFECT !!
Great spark and no problems with dwell/delay of the spark.
I use a normal 12 Volt HV-carcoil, maybe I can buy today a 6 Volt mopedcoil.

BTW, I found two guys who call them Charlie Moore in my mailbox (?) and also into the topics of us.

It might be me,

What were the email address they sent from?

Rob,

I looked at new stuff you are work on. Nice. I like the schematics.Very clear to understand.

Return-Path: <[email protected]
Return-Path: <[email protected]

Big schematics are not allway nice to read, becourse most people don't understand wat components do / can do.
If you split the schematic in parts, you can see how parts of the schematic work.
People understand also more how components function in the schematics.

Hi Rob,

the new part to the right of the jumpers in the timming board about R4 and R5 needs explaining better

where have the red jumpers gone ....haha

brett


ps . on the Schematic JPG

Rob, looks like you were very busy over the weekend! More stuff to tinker with. I downloaded all the files, making the new timer board. I see where you added the resistors to switch the pulse from negative to positive..nice work!
I'll add 2 jumpers to mine so it will work either way just changing jumpers..wonderful idea you had!!
I did this already on my power board, so I could use your board..now this makes it really nice and universal.
Only thing now is finding the other parts. Not a problem here where I live..many parts stores close by.
Great job on the CDI curves too! Easy to see what needs to be changed. Yahoo !!! You Da Man !!!

John

Thats the problem witrh schematics.....My schematic program can't write enough lines in the schematic.
To explain wat this resistors wil do and why they are into the schematic must be write in the howto.
But even to write a Dutch howto is diffecult to me, everythig is clear is clear to me.
I don't understand why people have problems with schematics and thats why I can't write a good howto.
Howto's must be write by people who don't understand anythig of it, thats the only way to get a good howto.

I just finish the TCI-boards and find out not all the components can good fixed on the boards.
The TIP162 on the TCI-powerboard is not on the right place, I can't fixit to a coolframe.
On the timerboard the regulator takes to much place and have to fit at the bottom of the board and 90 degrees turnover.
Also the C 220uF is to big, it can be a 47uF/16V
A few little problems can't distroy my day [8D]

Brett.. As I see it on the parts overlay and the schematic, Rob has provided a cure to the problem I was having with the output pulse from the timer board.. If you select to put a wire in the circle marked (P) at resistor R4, you have a positive pulse, which was what I needed to hook my design powerboard to his timerboard. Of course if you select that spot for positive pulse, you eliminate R5 from the circuit and vice-versa..if you select R5, eliminate R4 for a negative pulse, which is the way the timer board was originally designed..
Am I right Rob???

John

I was going to add the fact that 220uf was a little large a value for a ripple filter Rob, I would have used a 100uf-16volt, which was what I use on my board, small and effective..The TCI board uses alot of 1n4007-1000volt diodes for dc blocking reverse current..Great Rob!! plenty of protection... The 82 volt zener blocking diode should work great also on the CDI-2 powerboard..keeping the oscillator circuit of the BD237 and capacitor from actually stopping during a firing pulse..nice! A constant charge cycle..
Just my 2 cents worth of thoughts.. I'll sit in the corner now and keep my mouth shut..sorry..

Can some else please check the new exel spreedsheet.....my copy does not change the tspark numbers

cheers
brett

http://www.electronics.gompy.net/cditci/CDIcurve.zip

Plus i still have a issues with my timing can someone help

I set up the magnet and hall 40 degrees apart when at TDC  ( hall 40 degrees backwards from magnet when at TDC)

BUT it fires the plug at the 40 degrees as it does not have any delay to the spark

im tuning over by hand and using pull start

cheers
brett

Brett... If you can use the timing light feature (flashlight led), You may be able to see the timing change after it reaches 1000 to 1800 rpms. First spark sets the delay, then it follows the curve set in the software.. but it must see rpms as stated in the c-code to track it and change the advance..

My test setup only started to read at 1000 rpms with the timing light, but it does work. Setting the delay lower causes problems since that would yeild negative numbers and give an assembly error when you compile it.
Just my point of view.

I spin my motor with the plug out of the head with an electric motor (these are weedeater motors I convert), no chance of the motor backfiring or having preignition till I get the timing set.
As I vary the motor speed, I can see the degree wheel rotating in the timing light. That's how I tested mine.
I know your setup is different, but they all work the same from what I have seen..built 9 of these now and all function for me.
I just etched the newest CDI-TCI timer board..will have to see how that one works tomorrow..

John

The table is generate backward and will be read backwards.
The first numbers in the row (start left), something like 0,0,0,0,1,1,1,1,2,2, will never be changed untill you run your engine over 20.000rpm.

I hope you place the magnet at TDC and the hall 40 degrees BTDC ? (howto)
At start the CDI makes a easystart, your timing will be 15 degrees BTDC.....allways if you put the hall 40 degrees BTDC and the magnet TDC.
If the engine spins more then 1800 rpm, your timing take it over.

@gr8flyer55, thanks to explain the output of the new board.
I'll change today some layouts so everything can be placed on the pcb without braking the parts.
With the pcb you have nao, nive pcb you have make, the 5V regulator didn't fit on the board.
The 220uF capacitor can have a value of 47uF/16V and the 47uF/16V can be replaced by a 10uF/16V.
On the TCI-powerboard, D1 must be 1N5406 for a small sparkcoil and a (10A diode) if you use a big sparkcoil.
TIP162 must be replaced and the 220nF capacitor will be placed to the bottom of the pcb.

John, Rob, my hand drill only does 1200 rpm and i doubt i can pull start it any faster than this.......

at 1200 rpm my timing is 25 degrees, but i put 10 degrees into the exel sheet

So this is because the programe can not read below this figure under that rpm, i understand this

Hiust tested with the timing light and i see the light goes out after a few hard pulls, like it stops triggering
the SCR,

but with the plug out it is fine up to 1200 rpm

i must have a trigger issue with my two boards

brett