Custom Piston Rings
#101
Senior Member
ORIGINAL: w8ye
Here's the newspaper article but it really doesn't say any more than what Bill said about the crash
http://billingsgazette.com/news/stat...cc4c002e0.html
Here's the newspaper article but it really doesn't say any more than what Bill said about the crash
http://billingsgazette.com/news/stat...cc4c002e0.html
He was instrument rated,but would not matter if he iced up.teriable.Feel so bad for his family.I used to fly to Jackson but always went north a little and followed the pass and never in bad weather
BCCHI
#103
Hi Frank Bowman.....I went Deer Hunting out to my place I am selling. Did not see a thing, so I went Steelhead fishing for a bit. Not a hit on spawn bags...so i put on a Spinner & 2nd cast got into a real nice fish. Took me 15 min to land it. It is hard to believe how these fresh run from lake Mich Trout fight. They just are tough buggers! After I got homeI thought I would work on my airplane...but ran out of steam. Capt,n
#104

Joined: Nov 2005
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From: Port Angeles,
WA
Just a follow up on Frank's custom rings. I had an Irvine .61 (dykes ring). motor is like new but the original ring did not seem like it seated correctly. I wasn't really happy with the motor.
I sent away for a custom ring fom Frank. Motor now runs as well as any .61 that I ever had now.
My only regret is that I was rebuilding a OS FSR 40 and a Saito at the same time. I wish I had order rings for those engines. At some point, I will probably go back and order several rings from Frank. They really do seem to be that much better then stock ring. Just my opinion.
I can only speak from my experience, but if you are rebuilding an older motor, consider buying some rings from Frank.
[email protected]
I sent away for a custom ring fom Frank. Motor now runs as well as any .61 that I ever had now.
My only regret is that I was rebuilding a OS FSR 40 and a Saito at the same time. I wish I had order rings for those engines. At some point, I will probably go back and order several rings from Frank. They really do seem to be that much better then stock ring. Just my opinion.
I can only speak from my experience, but if you are rebuilding an older motor, consider buying some rings from Frank.
[email protected]
#105
Well I got my G202 about ready to fly. The engine has not been run for 2 months...but with that Frank Bowman ring...she started right up & ran good. It was cold enough to see your breath today at around 4;30 pm. I did not adjust anything...but it is a little cold blooded. Needs warm up time to throttle up good!It is running in the photos.Capt,n PS I love my new test stand!!!
#106

My Feedback: (6)
Careful with that one Captain. Mine is like yours but is the blue "Alien" version. I set it up with the recommended c.g. and control throws, and it was "snap happy". It would readily snap out of loops, and if you got it too slow. I reduced the elevator throw, and have yet to test fly it again. (Too busy.) I may have to move the c.g. forward as well, though I would hate to as it flies inverted really nicely. However, it is even more "snap happy" inverted than upright.
AV8TOR
AV8TOR
#107
AV8TOR, Thanks for the heads up. I think this one has different flying charismatics than the one you have. I read all the data on the forum that my exact G202 is in.I did not read of anyone of several guys having any bad"snap" habits. They said it was a nice kinda easy sport plane...not good for 3-D. One fellow kept moving the CG back to get it to do more tricks.
What did your G202 weigh? Mine is maybe 10-11 lbs....I think.How was your for over-all construction? Mine seems pretty good...I did add some glue here & there though.What are the throws supposed to be....I did not get any data on that with kit! Thanks Capt,n
What did your G202 weigh? Mine is maybe 10-11 lbs....I think.How was your for over-all construction? Mine seems pretty good...I did add some glue here & there though.What are the throws supposed to be....I did not get any data on that with kit! Thanks Capt,n
#108

My Feedback: (6)
Hi Captain,
Mine isn't difficult to fly, it is just that if you haul back too hard on the elevator, it will snap on you. It has a souped up Homelite 30cc in it. (APC 16x8 at 9400 rpms.) It weighs 13 lbs., and I didn't have to add any ballast anywhere to get it to balance at the recommended c.g. The wing loading works out to 31 oz. per square foot, which is a touch high for this size bird.
I have attached a file that I used for the control throws.
AV8TOR
Mine isn't difficult to fly, it is just that if you haul back too hard on the elevator, it will snap on you. It has a souped up Homelite 30cc in it. (APC 16x8 at 9400 rpms.) It weighs 13 lbs., and I didn't have to add any ballast anywhere to get it to balance at the recommended c.g. The wing loading works out to 31 oz. per square foot, which is a touch high for this size bird.
I have attached a file that I used for the control throws.
AV8TOR
#109
In the High Rate for Elevator....is that a total of 2.625 of travel both ways or is that 2.625 from neutral? I have found that a lot of airplanes will snap out with too much elevator throw. PS That sure is a nice airplane you have. Looks like you daughter thinks so too. She sure is cute! I bet she is a good helper too. Capt,n
#111
What would happen if I set the travel at 1.5 inches and the expo at the following.?
1 1.5 at 20 %
2. 1.5 at 30%
3 1.5 at 40 %
4 1.5 at 50 %
5 1.5 at 60%
6 1.5 at 70 %
Thanks Capt,n
1 1.5 at 20 %
2. 1.5 at 30%
3 1.5 at 40 %
4 1.5 at 50 %
5 1.5 at 60%
6 1.5 at 70 %
Thanks Capt,n
#112

My Feedback: (6)
With really high, like over 50% expo, it seems like when you reach a certain movement on the stick, you all of a sudden have a lot more control movement and response. That can make some maneuvers difficult to do smoothly. I like to use 50% or less exponential on my planes. If you feel like you need more than 50% expo on a control because it is too sensitive, then either reduce the throw or use dual or triple rates.
(Just my opinion...)
AV8TOR
(Just my opinion...)
AV8TOR
#113
I remember now guys said years ago that too high Expo on ailerons could all of a sudden "kick in" and too much all at once ..caused a crash on landing. Not good!
Capt,n
Capt,n
#114

My Feedback: (16)
On one of my transmitters, a real high expo causes the center to be sloppy.
Like driving an old 55 Ford where you have to hold the steering slack to one side until you get to where the road is sloped the other way and you have to suddenly turn the wheel 1/2 turn the other direction to take up the slack?
Peaple that didn't start driving but 68 or later cars don't remember this?
Like driving an old 55 Ford where you have to hold the steering slack to one side until you get to where the road is sloped the other way and you have to suddenly turn the wheel 1/2 turn the other direction to take up the slack?
Peaple that didn't start driving but 68 or later cars don't remember this?
#115
ORIGINAL: w8ye
On one of my transmitters, a real high expo causes the center to be sloppy.
Like driving an old 55 Ford where you have to hold the steering slack to one side until you get to where the road is sloped the other way and you have to suddenly turn the wheel 1/2 turn the other direction to take up the slack?
Peaple that didn't start driving but 68 or later cars don't remember this?
On one of my transmitters, a real high expo causes the center to be sloppy.
Like driving an old 55 Ford where you have to hold the steering slack to one side until you get to where the road is sloped the other way and you have to suddenly turn the wheel 1/2 turn the other direction to take up the slack?
Peaple that didn't start driving but 68 or later cars don't remember this?
I am to young to know about cars that drive that way, but living on the farm when I was little, I have drove a few tractors like that!!
#116
I have a uesd Supertiger .75 I got on a airplane I bought a couple of years ago. The engine ran fair...but was really nasty looking. I took it apart to clean...and broke my first piston ring removing it. Kinda ticked me off. well it looks like I need to get in touch with Frank Bowman to get a new ring. I am going to try the crock pot method to clean it up. Capt,n
#118
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From: Romeo, MI
captinjohn,
I've used the ol' crock pot method several times in the past, always with great results. As a matter of fact, it's the only way I clean my engines now. The most impressive was an old Enya .09 glow engine with allot of baked on castor oil. After cooking away for a couple days in the pot it looked brand new! I've also used this method on big gas engines with the same great results.
One thing I'd like to mention is the type of radiator fluid I use. I don't know if it is just for safety reasons, or if it actually has something to do with the chemical make up? But before trying out this method, all my research pointed to the newer Eco-friendly kind of anti-freeze producing the best results. Unfortunately, I'm not home right now, and I don't remember what the actual brand I use is. If you are interested, I can check when I get home.
Something else I'd like to mention, if you haven't tried this method before, is to be patient. Most engines will be clean in a day or two. But I've had some take 4-5 days to look new again.
Good luck!
Mark
I've used the ol' crock pot method several times in the past, always with great results. As a matter of fact, it's the only way I clean my engines now. The most impressive was an old Enya .09 glow engine with allot of baked on castor oil. After cooking away for a couple days in the pot it looked brand new! I've also used this method on big gas engines with the same great results.
One thing I'd like to mention is the type of radiator fluid I use. I don't know if it is just for safety reasons, or if it actually has something to do with the chemical make up? But before trying out this method, all my research pointed to the newer Eco-friendly kind of anti-freeze producing the best results. Unfortunately, I'm not home right now, and I don't remember what the actual brand I use is. If you are interested, I can check when I get home.
Something else I'd like to mention, if you haven't tried this method before, is to be patient. Most engines will be clean in a day or two. But I've had some take 4-5 days to look new again.
Good luck!
Mark
#119
ORIGINAL: 3D Romeo
captinjohn,
I've used the ol' crock pot method several times in the past, always with great results. As a matter of fact, it's the only way I clean my engines now. The most impressive was an old Enya .09 glow engine with allot of baked on castor oil. After cooking away for a couple days in the pot it looked brand new! I've also used this method on big gas engines with the same great results.
One thing I'd like to mention is the type of radiator fluid I use. I don't know if it is just for safety reasons, or if it actually has something to do with the chemical make up? But before trying out this method, all my researched pointed to the newer Eco-friendly kind of anti-freeze producing the best results. Unfortunately, I'm not home right now, and I don't remember what the actual brand I use is. If you are interested, I can check when I get home.
Something else I'd like to mention, if you haven't tried this method before, is to be patient. Most engines will be clean in a day or two. But I've had some take 4-5 days to look new again.
Good luck!
Mark
captinjohn,
I've used the ol' crock pot method several times in the past, always with great results. As a matter of fact, it's the only way I clean my engines now. The most impressive was an old Enya .09 glow engine with allot of baked on castor oil. After cooking away for a couple days in the pot it looked brand new! I've also used this method on big gas engines with the same great results.
One thing I'd like to mention is the type of radiator fluid I use. I don't know if it is just for safety reasons, or if it actually has something to do with the chemical make up? But before trying out this method, all my researched pointed to the newer Eco-friendly kind of anti-freeze producing the best results. Unfortunately, I'm not home right now, and I don't remember what the actual brand I use is. If you are interested, I can check when I get home.
Something else I'd like to mention, if you haven't tried this method before, is to be patient. Most engines will be clean in a day or two. But I've had some take 4-5 days to look new again.
Good luck!
Mark
Thanks
Wattmeter
#120
I did read that the old type of ant-freeze worked the best....but I may have been mis-informed. I do have both kinds...the old & the new. I will do a before & after photo when I get around to doing the clean job. Capt,n
#122
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From: Romeo, MI
Sorry Capt,n...I won't be home until later today (probably after 9:00pm). I'll definitely post the name when I get a chance though.
I can even dig up some before and after photos of a couple engines I cleaned if there is any interest? I know I took photos of at least 3 or 4 that I've done in the past.
Mark
I can even dig up some before and after photos of a couple engines I cleaned if there is any interest? I know I took photos of at least 3 or 4 that I've done in the past.
Mark
#123
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From: Romeo, MI
Well...I finally made it home!
The brand of antifreeze I use in the crock pot is Sierra (see attached photo). It was the brand that I read the most good things about when I was researching it, and from the engines I've done so far I think it was a pretty good choice.
If you try out a different brand. Please let us know how it works?
I can't think of anything doing a better job than the Sierra. But there may be others that do just as good of a job.
Mark
The brand of antifreeze I use in the crock pot is Sierra (see attached photo). It was the brand that I read the most good things about when I was researching it, and from the engines I've done so far I think it was a pretty good choice.
If you try out a different brand. Please let us know how it works?
I can't think of anything doing a better job than the Sierra. But there may be others that do just as good of a job.
Mark


