DLE 30 Prop Mount
#1
Thread Starter

My Feedback: (11)
I have a DLE 30. I would like to remove the shaft the extends out from the thrust washer on the prop shaft to eliminate the use of the four bolts used to hold the prop on.
I have a plate with screws that exactly fits the bolt pattern and contains a forward facing threaded shaft that I can mount a prop on.
This eliminate the drilling the additional four holes in the prop .
This shaft is brass and is screwed into the center of the crankshaft where it meets the thrust washer.
When I go to grab it with a vise grips , I only bung it up and cannot get it to move.
Any ideas?
I have a plate with screws that exactly fits the bolt pattern and contains a forward facing threaded shaft that I can mount a prop on.
This eliminate the drilling the additional four holes in the prop .
This shaft is brass and is screwed into the center of the crankshaft where it meets the thrust washer.
When I go to grab it with a vise grips , I only bung it up and cannot get it to move.
Any ideas?
#3
Thread Starter

My Feedback: (11)
The hex on this shaft is down below the prop thrust washer . I do not have a socket long enough to engulf the entire shaft and still grab the hex.
Also there is very little room between the hex and wall of the hole in which it sits . The wall of the socket would need to be very very thin as well.
I do not see how heat can be applied to it it is down deep in the crank shaft.
Thank you .
Also there is very little room between the hex and wall of the hole in which it sits . The wall of the socket would need to be very very thin as well.
I do not see how heat can be applied to it it is down deep in the crank shaft.
Thank you .
#4
Senior Member
My Feedback: (4)
Yup, it takes a thin wall socket...Heat won't hurt the crank, just heat it to loosen the Loctite...
Why not just cut it off in place ?
Take the plug out, put some rope in the cylinder to stop the crank from turning...
I made single bolt conv ersions, Bill Carpenter had some, Jody has some, ALL require cutting the shaft off flush or below the hub surface..
Why not just cut it off in place ?
Take the plug out, put some rope in the cylinder to stop the crank from turning...
I made single bolt conv ersions, Bill Carpenter had some, Jody has some, ALL require cutting the shaft off flush or below the hub surface..
#8
Get a socket the right size of the nut, one with 6 sides is the best. Just use a bench grinder and grind down the socket for it to go in place. Heat the center a little and try to remove the center part with hex nut. You can also drill 4 holes in a piece of metal to make a hub holding device. They say air guns will remove the hex very easy. Time to find some friendly neibor that may just help you. Good luck Capt,n
#9
Have you contacted the company where you purchased the adapter to see if they could help you with instructions? There is more than one of these adapters out there, all that I've seen have pretty useful instructions and the sellers are very helpful if politely asked.</p>
#11
Did you not see the link to the manual on the adapter page, it explaines how to remove the pilot shaft. If you don't have a socket deep enough just cut the pilot shaft off as close as you can to the hub, then remove what's left with a regular socketthen cut it again the way the instructions show.
http://www.valleyviewrc.com/estore/m...structions.pdf
http://www.valleyviewrc.com/estore/m...structions.pdf
#13
Senior Member
My Feedback: (1)
ORIGINAL: jedijody
Did you not see the link to the manual on the adapter page, it explaines how to remove the pilot shaft. If you don't have a socket deep enough just cut the pilot shaft off as close as you can to the hub, then remove what's left with a regular socket then cut it again the way the instructions show.
http://www.valleyviewrc.com/estore/m...structions.pdf
Did you not see the link to the manual on the adapter page, it explaines how to remove the pilot shaft. If you don't have a socket deep enough just cut the pilot shaft off as close as you can to the hub, then remove what's left with a regular socket then cut it again the way the instructions show.
http://www.valleyviewrc.com/estore/m...structions.pdf



The instructions look pretty simple to follow, and the tools breakdown is about as well laid out as could be done. I think my point about the instructions was pretty well made. If you look at them you can easily follow them.




