DLE-85 85cc Gas Engine at troybuiltmodels.com
#127

My Feedback: (11)
On all my engines from 20cc to 55cc DLE I have always set the choke and throttle at about 1/4 flip till it pops and the the choke off and flip a few times to start. This has worked every time with great success. One of the reasons I really like DLE, my EME120 will not start without the choke, but it starts every time and has never flooded. Same 1/4 throttle. I think the DLE85 likes more throttle 1/3 to 1/2 and only choke for a few flips, or it will flood. I will try and hone the start and restart method as I go threw break in.
TB
TB
#129

My Feedback: (11)
So day two and the cold start went as fallows;
During fueling I noticed gas dripping from the carb. The fuel system in the Sbach is a single clunk on a tee to the carb and fill dot. So I clamped it off. The carb was wet with fuel dripping from it. I choked it and started flipping. 5 or so with 1/3 throttle. Then no choke for another 10-15 flips till she started.
The engine ran fine, once in the air I could tell it needed to be leaned. So I landed and closed the H needle 1/8 turn. Re fire was the same, no choke, flip a few, then choke again for a few, then no choke, pop, then no choke flip a bunch, then choke for a few flips, pop (Big Bang) flip a bunch without choke till she started.
The engine ran much better after tuning, after a good 8 min flight I noticed that I lost a wheel. I removed the wheel paints because they where beat up and in need of fixing, plus I need new wheels. So I landed as slow and soft as I could with a good 20 mph head wind it was easy, no damage.
So in conclusion the start procedure is to choke it, flip it, choke it flip it, flip it, flip it,choke it, no choke, flip it eventually it starts. The good is it starts, the bad is it takes 10x what all my other engines take.
TB
During fueling I noticed gas dripping from the carb. The fuel system in the Sbach is a single clunk on a tee to the carb and fill dot. So I clamped it off. The carb was wet with fuel dripping from it. I choked it and started flipping. 5 or so with 1/3 throttle. Then no choke for another 10-15 flips till she started.
The engine ran fine, once in the air I could tell it needed to be leaned. So I landed and closed the H needle 1/8 turn. Re fire was the same, no choke, flip a few, then choke again for a few, then no choke, pop, then no choke flip a bunch, then choke for a few flips, pop (Big Bang) flip a bunch without choke till she started.
The engine ran much better after tuning, after a good 8 min flight I noticed that I lost a wheel. I removed the wheel paints because they where beat up and in need of fixing, plus I need new wheels. So I landed as slow and soft as I could with a good 20 mph head wind it was easy, no damage.
So in conclusion the start procedure is to choke it, flip it, choke it flip it, flip it, flip it,choke it, no choke, flip it eventually it starts. The good is it starts, the bad is it takes 10x what all my other engines take.
TB
Last edited by TonyBuilder; 05-11-2014 at 11:07 AM.
#136
Gent's I need help. Yesterday i had a problem with my engine that couldn't run at high speed, went home and took the carburetor out to check and clean the filter put all back and the engine won't start and kept spit the gas out and flooded the engine. Thanks in advance.
Tom
Tom
#142

My Feedback: (11)
Ok so I have about 1.5 gal threw my engine and I think it is getting easier to start. I prime it then choke it, flip 4-5 times and a big bang, not a pop, then no choke and another 5-10 flips and it starts. Main thing is to make sure it is primed and getting gas. Re-starts are a little more challenging, sometimes no choke, but a lot of flips. Sometimes choke, flip, no chock, flip, choke if it does not start after 10 flips, 3-4 flips and take the choke off, then another 10+ flips. It does start! I did retard the timing about 1/32" I haven't tested the timing, just playing it by ear. I'm getting 6500 Rpm on a Xoar 26x10 with around 40lb of thrust. I'm flying and breaking it in on my 100cc Sbach frame. The performance is very similar to the EME120 I normally have in the frame, strong up line, vertical is similar to my EME, it will hang at half throttle.
The biggest difference is the sound, this engine is crazy loud. The EME is much quieter and sounds much better, after all it is a twin. Vibration is more with the 85, highest at idle and low rpm. The engine is strong and so far runs great once you get it started. At this point my only issue is the way it starts and how loud it is. My home made scale muffler and exhaust is not as loud as the stock muffler. For the plane I am using it in, my GSTF P-47 it is a good fit, it is only 3oz lighter then my EME120. Next week I will put the 22x10x4 blade prop on it and see how it flies compared to the two blade .
The biggest difference is the sound, this engine is crazy loud. The EME is much quieter and sounds much better, after all it is a twin. Vibration is more with the 85, highest at idle and low rpm. The engine is strong and so far runs great once you get it started. At this point my only issue is the way it starts and how loud it is. My home made scale muffler and exhaust is not as loud as the stock muffler. For the plane I am using it in, my GSTF P-47 it is a good fit, it is only 3oz lighter then my EME120. Next week I will put the 22x10x4 blade prop on it and see how it flies compared to the two blade .
#144

My Feedback: (19)
The engine flooding / starting problem you mention concerns me quite a bit. You are not the first to mention this and the DLE111 has also experienced the same problem. I don't know if the 111 and 85 share the same carb. No healthy Walbro or Walbro clone should leak gas during fueling. The only thing that could allow that is the metering needle. If it was leaking or if the pop off pressure was set way too low it could cause the problem. If this is the problem, I could certainly understand the engine being hard to start and continued flooding. Have you tested the pop off pressure on that carb?
#145
Steve,
I found it, the problem was I didn't assemble the regulator diaphragm cover correct. I didn't have the pin with the slot on the Diaphragm slide into the lever that caused the valve open :-)
I found it, the problem was I didn't assemble the regulator diaphragm cover correct. I didn't have the pin with the slot on the Diaphragm slide into the lever that caused the valve open :-)
Last edited by tom_sandiego; 05-20-2014 at 09:47 AM.
#147
Still had same problem the fuel flooded the plug and come out from the rear, have no idea what to look next. Trucrkacer are you mean the lever to high? is that cause the fuel come out and flooded the plug?
#148

My Feedback: (19)
I'm not recommending this but some people have actually removed the part of the pin on the diaphragm that engages the fork as they feel it serves no purpose. This comes from some very knowledgeable people and you can find reference to this if you do a few searches here on RCU.
#149
Its hard to tell from the photo but the fork that engages the pin on the diaphragm looks to be high. In most cases the fork is usually even with and parallel to the flat surface of the surrounding carb body. If the carb is flooding, the needle is not sealing properly or its pop off pressure is set too low. Either problem could be caused by a defect, damage or improper adjustment.
I'm not recommending this but some people have actually removed the part of the pin on the diaphragm that engages the fork as they feel it serves no purpose. This comes from some very knowledgeable people and you can find reference to this if you do a few searches here on RCU.
I'm not recommending this but some people have actually removed the part of the pin on the diaphragm that engages the fork as they feel it serves no purpose. This comes from some very knowledgeable people and you can find reference to this if you do a few searches here on RCU.
Will do that Thanks


