ALFIEV

So, I am looking to run the engine again this weekend. I have re-tightened the pick-up in its extreme advanced position (counter the direction of rotation of the propeller). At this position I can see a small amount of "slot" visible where the mounting screws go. Just wondering if someone could have a quick look at their engine and let me know if the pick-up appears to be fully advanced, fully retarded, or somewhere in between. I don't have timing protractor set, but I think it should be alright to run, adjust if required, and run again. I chose to set up at full advanced initially to see if it will give me a better top-end, good transition, and reasonable idle.

ALFIEV

Another silly question Hector! You mentioned using a LiPo instead of NiMh.
I assumed it would be a 2 cell receiver battery but someone asked me today whether it could be a 2 cell 25c LiPo.
What do you think?

chorner

Of course you can... it doesn't matter how the battery is constructed, or what it is... or anything else. Other than 1) does it supply the correct voltage and 2) can it put out ~3amps of current

Otherwise, go nuts. Whatever you want to use. You can use a 1/10 electric shorty pack if that's all you have, as long as you're supplying 7.4v max at the ignition.

ALFIEV

Gotcha! Thanks for the reply!

SWORDSN

My Feedback: (13)

Mine appears to be about in the center.

ALFIEV

Thanks for that. Will try it fairly central then. There is not a lot of adjustment, but enough I guess to make a difference.

chorner

Even a few degrees can make a noticeable difference depending on the valve timing etc. of the engine from one extreme to the other. You probably get something ~5-6 degrees to play with if I recall from my FG21 (assuming it's similar). The FG21 was a pain in the rear to start by hand unless it was worked in, you gave it a really good "toss" and retarded the timing a bit from the stock setting of "down the middle". I remember seeing a solid ~200+ RPM difference on the top end, but not a huge difference in idle quality outside of starting which was a real pain if it was advanced as far as you could set it, without a starter.

ALFIEV

Yeah, I just ran the engine. Played with the positioning of the pick-up. Seems to perform well just to the advanced side of centre. Wish it had been marked at the factory positioning. If I was ever going to adjust it from the factory setting on purpose I would always market before moving it. In this case the bloody thing vibrated loose and left me in no-mans land.
Still, I seem to have a reasonable spot for it, although I think idle is a bit off.

Timbers

My Feedback: (3)

Are any of you running the Biela 22x10 four bladed prop on the FG-60R3? I have the Top Flite P47 Tarheel Hal and the FG-60R3. I'd like to run a scale prop on here. I think the only one available is the Biela.

Should I go with 22x10 or should I pick a different diameter and pitch? Thanks for the help.

scubaozy

I don't think fg60 can turn 22x10 four bladed. It's too much prop for the engine. 20x10x4 could be ok but that would look a little too small. I would say better stick with 2 blade.

marksp

My Feedback: (9)

Xoar 22x10 2-blade for me. I suspect going to 4-blade, you'd want to drop at least 2" of diameter to achieve rated RPM. Given how expensive 4-blade props are, I'd prolly start with a 20x8x4...but just guessing

AeroFinn

johnhi,

This is extract from the old Laser engine's website

(http://laserengines.co.uk/Instructions.htm):
"Overheating can seriously damage an engine, this is not covered by guarantee, do not allow your engine to overheat.


If the cylinder head bolts become loose this is a positive symptom of overheating."


Maybe the reason why the cylinder bolts of your Fg60R3 become loose is the engine really requires a proper baffling arrangement? I think the engine may be overloaded and thus overheated if extended period of benchrunning is applied

This is just a thought

SWORDSN

My Feedback: (13)

In my experience all cowled engines benefit from a baffle.This engine will too.I do plan to baffle mine.

johnhi

Thanks AeroFinn who knows what caused the bolts to come loose, I have thread locked them all now and put lock washers on each bolt too.

Here are some pics of my baffling and louvre vents, I'm pretty sure I have done all I can to aid air flow.

Timbers

My Feedback: (3)

I'd like to run some temperature gauges that can record the max temp that was achieved during the power cycle. I have an older one that just has a wire that wraps around the cylinder head. I think you could get more accurate than that and have one that you could JB Weld right to the aluminum behind the spark plug. I want to find something like this before I attempt to break this thing in.....

I was thinking of using something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Taylor-Precisi...al+thermometer

Then rip the sensor out of it, and JB Weld it to the big fin behind the spark plug on the FG-60R3. I'm guessing the sensor is glued in though and I will never get it out.

Anyone have any other ideas besides using a laser temp gun on this engine?

the pope

Theres temp sensers that can go under a bolt and also the plug . They may not be in the optimum position but if u can get a base line temp and then apply it to these u can get an idea of temps . Hope I explained that ok . Cheers the pope

AeroFinn

Johnhi,

Your cooling arrangement seems pretty perfect. The only thing that puzzles me a bit is the big hole on the bottom of the cowling. It may or it may not cause troubles. Maybe you could mount a similar louvre there than what you have on the sides of the cowling?

-Artto

scubaozy

I suspect overheating engine would loose power or flame out before loosening the bolts.

johnhi

The big hole was so I can get my hand inside the cowel to put my finger over the carburettor to prime the engine for the first start of the day. I have an electric starter now so I don't need to do this any more and putting a louvre over this is not a bad idea, so I'll do this.

johnhi

Hi Timbers try these they are made for RC engines http://www.modelsport.co.uk/prolux-l...roducts/386244

AeroFinn

I too use an electric starter for the same reason on my Laser 300v. I actually could have used hinges and a magnet or two to enable a quick access inside the cowling (and the twin carbs) from below but I didn't happen to think of that when I installed the louvre


By the way, I did the baffling of my Yak from 15mm insulation material. The advantage of that material is it's flexible and does not ruin the finnish of the engibe surface so you don't need to have any gap between the engine and the baffling. So in case the engine vibrates or shakes there is no harm done if the engine touches the baffling. Further, as it's a tight fit all air goes through the engine finns and no airflow goes around the cylinder.

I just want to share this with you and others even though I do not think there is anything missing with your baffling arrangement.

-Artto

LtMash1A

how big of an airplane weight wise will it fly?

chorner

Received my FG-60. Cool little engine. It has a smaller presence than I thought it would, but fits perfectly of course in the Top Flite P-47D. From taking a quick look, I can see exactly why some are having issues with the cylinder heads cracking near the base. There's just not enough material there period. Also, Saito used larger sized bolts in other places on the engine where it's not really needed, but used the smallest sized bolts I've seen to date on a radial of this size for securing the cylinder head. Not spreading enough force over a large enough area...

I'm going to be very careful to make sure this bloody thing is running within temps, with high quality oil, and the bolts tightened firmly and evenly as soon as I get it warmed up on the test stand. Hopefully I won't ever have that issue.

In other "news" - took the time to detail the stock dummy radial to help fill the cowl of my P47 this engine is going in. Went a little extra and still have a bit of detailing to go on the cylinder heads after looking at the dummy radial (hopefully find a good Pratt & Whitney stamp or something too) and some other tweaks - but I think I'm going to be happy with it and should serve as a good baffle as well.

Hyjinx

Hi all. Youre gonna love this new to forum use. Cant figure out how to post a question. Want help trying to figure out what an asp 400 radial will fly. Am a saito guy that is about to compromise my standards and buy a Chineze product cause i am addicted and must hear a radial drone by me on the front of one of my used castaways impersonating a warbird. Please have mercy

SrTelemaster150

I've been running C&H CDI systems since 1997 & the cheap Chinese plugs are just as good as the expensive Rimfires & actually tend to have better idle characteristics in big block Saito singles.