Saito FG-60R3
#1676
So is my engine just all around bad? I mean all cylinders will have been replaced when this one gets repaired. So my engine has had a misalignment from the get go? How would one fix this?
#1677
Senior Member
Any side stress on the cylinders bases should be in the direction of rotation as the piston will rock somewhat in the bore as it is forced downward.. Cylinders failing like what you have experienced points to something causing stress perpendicular the what the normal forces would generate.
If it was my engine I would check the rod angle in line with the crank against the surface on the crank case where the cylinders bolt on. Your most recent failure has a piston severely misaligned with the longitudinal access for whatever reason. If you find a similar pattern on all of your pistons I would suspect something in the way the case is machined for the cylinders bases or perhaps the master rod in flipped backwards . Also check the crank bearings to make sure there is no radial play in the crankshaft.
IMO I would run methanol instead of gas anyway. I have been running glow fuel (methanol with some nitro) with CDI (spark ignition) since 1997 on all of my Saito engines. Methanol runs much cooler than gas, does not pose a much fire hazard, doesn't have the objectionable smell, is just as user friendly and makes about 20% more HP than a similar size gas engine. The only draw back is fuel consumption, but eliminating the nitro, and reducing the oil content will help. If you live near a large city or race track, methanol is about $2 a gallon if you buy it from bulk into your own container. To convert a gas Saito you would need a glow fuel carburetor and advance the ignition timing about 8 degree more. Saito engines were not originally designed for gasoline use.
#1678
Senior Member
Attachment 2260427
Have someone measure the diameter of the FG60R3 wrist pin and make a longer version that will hang over the edges of the case opening.
When you get it made, I can walk you through the procedure. You can check for both straight misalignment or twisted misalignment.
Last edited by SrTelemaster150; 05-13-2018 at 01:08 PM.
#1679
My Feedback: (2)
So the wrist pin bearing is installed incorrectly? It's pressed into the connecting rod at some wrong angle? Or the lower end bearing is mis-installed?
All I can say is WOW. I worked for a small engine mfg for near 10 years. Saw about a bazillion engines come through our shop. I don't ever recall ever seeing a mis-aligned wrist pin.
That's a new one on me.
All I can say is WOW. I worked for a small engine mfg for near 10 years. Saw about a bazillion engines come through our shop. I don't ever recall ever seeing a mis-aligned wrist pin.
That's a new one on me.
#1680
Senior Member
So the wrist pin bearing is installed incorrectly? It's pressed into the connecting rod at some wrong angle? Or the lower end bearing is mis-installed?
All I can say is WOW. I worked for a small engine mfg for near 10 years. Saw about a bazillion engines come through our shop. I don't ever recall ever seeing a mis-aligned wrist pin.
That's a new one on me.
All I can say is WOW. I worked for a small engine mfg for near 10 years. Saw about a bazillion engines come through our shop. I don't ever recall ever seeing a mis-aligned wrist pin.
That's a new one on me.
It isn't likely the wrist pin itself that is misaligned. That is merely where any misalignment can be conveniently measured. Since, as you pointed out, it is unlikely that the wrist pin bore itself is the culprit, it is the most accurate place to do so.
On Harley Davidson engines it is usually a tolerance stack-up of the various components on the big end of the connecting rod. (roller bearing races, race bores, crank pin, etc) In this case, it could be any of a number of reasons. if the pistons of all three cylinders show the same wear pattern, there is something amiss with the master rod alignment and/or case machining..
The first step is to check to see if there is indeed misalignment since it would be quite easy to make a tool and use some thin paper strips to check. All three pistons/rods should be checked at this point.
I am basing my assumption that the piston in the picture has never been installed in another cylinder that failed completely at the base causing the severe signs of misalignment.
Since the cylinder pictured doesn't appear to have failed to the point of becoming misaligned with the case itself and IF that piston spent its entire life to this point in that particular cylinder, it definitely points to something below the piston/cylinder causing the misalignment.
If I had the engine in question in my hands, with an alignment gauge pin, I could could find out what is causing that misalignment (if indeed there is misalignment) in a few hours time with common mechanics gauges and measuring devices.
Last edited by SrTelemaster150; 05-13-2018 at 06:00 AM.
#1681
My Feedback: (48)
I've got my doubts about any kind of serious misalignment in Davis's engine. I'm more prone to believe you had some pre ignition going on due to high temps which caused the jug failure. (the jug being the weakest part) JMHO
I'm in agreement with Telemaster in that this engine just doesn't have the cooling ability to run on gas dependably... it needs some serious fins on those cylinders and quit dickin around dammit!
For the helluva it I bought a couple carb gasket sets and I've got one set immersed in glow fuel right now just to see if they're compatible with methanol. I'll leave the parts alone for a day or two and see what happens.
I'm in agreement with Telemaster in that this engine just doesn't have the cooling ability to run on gas dependably... it needs some serious fins on those cylinders and quit dickin around dammit!
For the helluva it I bought a couple carb gasket sets and I've got one set immersed in glow fuel right now just to see if they're compatible with methanol. I'll leave the parts alone for a day or two and see what happens.
#1682
Senior Member
I've got my doubts about any kind of serious misalignment in Davis's engine. I'm more prone to believe you had some pre ignition going on due to high temps which caused the jug failure. (the jug being the weakest part) JMHO
I'm in agreement with Telemaster in that this engine just doesn't have the cooling ability to run on gas dependably... it needs some serious fins on those cylinders and quit dickin around dammit!
For the helluva it I bought a couple carb gasket sets and I've got one set immersed in glow fuel right now just to see if they're compatible with methanol. I'll leave the parts alone for a day or two and see what happens.
I'm in agreement with Telemaster in that this engine just doesn't have the cooling ability to run on gas dependably... it needs some serious fins on those cylinders and quit dickin around dammit!
For the helluva it I bought a couple carb gasket sets and I've got one set immersed in glow fuel right now just to see if they're compatible with methanol. I'll leave the parts alone for a day or two and see what happens.
Checking rod/deck alignment would take just a few minutes with the elongated wrist pin and some paper strips. It would be the easiest factor to eliminate and THAT is the 1st rule of trouble shooting.
Just adapt a carburetor from an FA-125 to run on methanol..
#1683
My Feedback: (48)
I'm not seeing where the ring land was in contact with the bore... I am seeing an area where chunks of carbon probably flaked off and got down between the cylinder and piston ring and caused some scuffing.
Granted, checking rod alignment is easy... ONCE you have a elongated wrist pin in your grubby little hands.
If able I want to use the stock carb if it'll handle glow fuel... no adapter needed. (it's basically a glow carb with a pump)
Granted, checking rod alignment is easy... ONCE you have a elongated wrist pin in your grubby little hands.
If able I want to use the stock carb if it'll handle glow fuel... no adapter needed. (it's basically a glow carb with a pump)
#1684
Senior Member
Your kidding me right? The land is polished on the rear side and you can see the radius wear pattern on the oil residue band on the ring land about 1/3 of the way towards the front. Not to mention the cocked contact pattern on the skirt.
If you end up running methanol, you'll get the mist efficiency if you crank the ignition timing to about 35 degrees BTDC.
Last edited by SrTelemaster150; 05-13-2018 at 10:58 AM.
#1685
My Feedback: (48)
I'm seeing a normal clean land on the left...not polished, and excessive carbon on the right, which matches the pattern in the cylinder head. I'm seeing your uneven wear pattern on the skirt, but not terribly concerned about it. Air cooled engine, fairly loose tolerance... short skirt... piston is going to rock right to left of crank especially until it gets up to temperature. Consider the piston or bore may be out of round also for all we know, or uneven temps adding to the problem. Consider also if that land was in contact with the bore you'd see aluminum deposits on the ring in short order.
The thing I don't like is the carbon buildup on one side and not the other. I would expect it to be more uniform. Poor swirl pattern? Possible detonation cleaning off one side? I've seen many Briggs and Stratton's look better than that!
I'm aware of the timing. I may have to drill a couple new holes in the crankcase to get it or come up with some other method.
I checked the carb parts, they looking good so far. The valve plate is made out of clear acetate (?). For awhile I couln't find it in the glass jar and thought it disintegrated. Turned out to be just nearly invisible..no damage.
The thing I don't like is the carbon buildup on one side and not the other. I would expect it to be more uniform. Poor swirl pattern? Possible detonation cleaning off one side? I've seen many Briggs and Stratton's look better than that!
I'm aware of the timing. I may have to drill a couple new holes in the crankcase to get it or come up with some other method.
I checked the carb parts, they looking good so far. The valve plate is made out of clear acetate (?). For awhile I couln't find it in the glass jar and thought it disintegrated. Turned out to be just nearly invisible..no damage.
#1686
Senior Member
I'm seeing a normal clean land on the left...not polished, and excessive carbon on the right, which matches the pattern in the cylinder head. I'm seeing your uneven wear pattern on the skirt, but not terribly concerned about it. Air cooled engine, fairly loose tolerance... short skirt... piston is going to rock right to left of crank especially until it gets up to temperature. Consider the piston or bore may be out of round also for all we know, or uneven temps adding to the problem. Consider also if that land was in contact with the bore you'd see aluminum deposits on the ring in short order.
The thing I don't like is the carbon buildup on one side and not the other. I would expect it to be more uniform. Poor swirl pattern? Possible detonation cleaning off one side? I've seen many Briggs and Stratton's look better than that!
I'm aware of the timing. I may have to drill a couple new holes in the crankcase to get it or come up with some other method.
I checked the carb parts, they looking good so far. The valve plate is made out of clear acetate (?). For awhile I couln't find it in the glass jar and thought it disintegrated. Turned out to be just nearly invisible..no damage.
The thing I don't like is the carbon buildup on one side and not the other. I would expect it to be more uniform. Poor swirl pattern? Possible detonation cleaning off one side? I've seen many Briggs and Stratton's look better than that!
I'm aware of the timing. I may have to drill a couple new holes in the crankcase to get it or come up with some other method.
I checked the carb parts, they looking good so far. The valve plate is made out of clear acetate (?). For awhile I couln't find it in the glass jar and thought it disintegrated. Turned out to be just nearly invisible..no damage.
Attachment 2260430
Attachment 2260431
Last edited by SrTelemaster150; 05-13-2018 at 01:08 PM.
#1687
Senior Member
I'm seeing a normal clean land on the left...not polished, and excessive carbon on the right, which matches the pattern in the cylinder head. I'm seeing your uneven wear pattern on the skirt, but not terribly concerned about it. Air cooled engine, fairly loose tolerance... short skirt... piston is going to rock right to left of crank especially until it gets up to temperature. Consider the piston or bore may be out of round also for all we know, or uneven temps adding to the problem. Consider also if that land was in contact with the bore you'd see aluminum deposits on the ring in short order.
The thing I don't like is the carbon buildup on one side and not the other. I would expect it to be more uniform. Poor swirl pattern? Possible detonation cleaning off one side? I've seen many Briggs and Stratton's look better than that!
I'm aware of the timing. I may have to drill a couple new holes in the crankcase to get it or come up with some other method.
I checked the carb parts, they looking good so far. The valve plate is made out of clear acetate (?). For awhile I couln't find it in the glass jar and thought it disintegrated. Turned out to be just nearly invisible..no damage.
The thing I don't like is the carbon buildup on one side and not the other. I would expect it to be more uniform. Poor swirl pattern? Possible detonation cleaning off one side? I've seen many Briggs and Stratton's look better than that!
I'm aware of the timing. I may have to drill a couple new holes in the crankcase to get it or come up with some other method.
I checked the carb parts, they looking good so far. The valve plate is made out of clear acetate (?). For awhile I couln't find it in the glass jar and thought it disintegrated. Turned out to be just nearly invisible..no damage.
Last edited by SrTelemaster150; 05-13-2018 at 05:51 PM.
#1688
My Feedback: (48)
Looks great! And I think MDavis's piston was on it's way there if he'd gotten enough time on it. Chances are your piston looked just like MDavis's before it got fully bedded in... were talking microns here.
Considering the temps that were posted on this engine I'm surprised the piston looks as good as it does.
What are your thoughts about the carbon buildup and pattern?
Considering the temps that were posted on this engine I'm surprised the piston looks as good as it does.
What are your thoughts about the carbon buildup and pattern?
#1690
My Feedback: (2)
Ya know putting a piston design into a cylinder isn't rocket science lol. Normally everything is Square and normal to the plane.
Why that isn't the case in some of these engines is beyond me. Standard engineering and Mfg. No tricks here for sure.
I have one of these engines that has been broken in but not flown in my Corsair yet. Hopefully I'll dodge some of these issues.
Why that isn't the case in some of these engines is beyond me. Standard engineering and Mfg. No tricks here for sure.
I have one of these engines that has been broken in but not flown in my Corsair yet. Hopefully I'll dodge some of these issues.
#1691
Senior Member
Here is a normal piston contact pattern from a 12.7:1 Compression FA-180 running glow fuel with spark ignition. I ran this on a test stand for many hours, at least 10 hours @ WOT doing prototype tests.
Attachment 2260435
Attachment 2260436
Attachment 2260435
Attachment 2260436
Looks great! And I think MDavis's piston was on it's way there if he'd gotten enough time on it. Chances are your piston looked just like MDavis's before it got fully bedded in... were talking microns here.
Considering the temps that were posted on this engine I'm surprised the piston looks as good as it does.
What are your thoughts about the carbon buildup and pattern?
Considering the temps that were posted on this engine I'm surprised the piston looks as good as it does.
What are your thoughts about the carbon buildup and pattern?
#1692
Senior Member
The bottom arrow shows the uneven contact pattern on the skirt due to the same misalignment. To the the left of that bottom arrow there was no cylinder wall contact as there would have been with a properly aligned piston.
I would say that the carbon build up would be caused by excessive oil and/or higher than normal operating temperatures.
Last edited by SrTelemaster150; 05-13-2018 at 06:30 PM.
#1693
Just a thought, would the damage shown in the photos be the result of a missing Master Rod Retainer (Crank Pin Plug) that was not installed during factory assembly? Removing the rear cover will confirm if the plug is installed or not installed. I checked my FG60R3 and the plug is installed
#1694
Senior Member
Just a thought, would the damage shown in the photos be the result of a missing Master Rod Retainer (Crank Pin Plug) that was not installed during factory assembly? Removing the rear cover will confirm if the plug is installed or not installed. I checked my FG60R3 and the plug is installed
#1695
Senior Member
In other words, the misalignment caused the crack, not vica versa.
#1696
My Feedback: (48)
In my opinion... (for what it's worth LOL) I thing the actual failure of the cylinder was cause by detonation. I base that on the pictures of the inside of the cylinder in which it shows an unusual carbon pattern. Observe the area surrounding the valves, quite a bit of hard caked on carbon (cooked on oil due to high temp?), but on the other side almost clean. IMHO I think your seeing evidence of pre ignition which literally blasted off the carbon off the clean side just like you hit it with a hammer. I've replaced my fair share of pistons and head gaskets and even a head or two in engines that failed due to pre ignition. In this engine the weak spot just happens to be the jug.
And yes, the hotter it runs, the more prone it is to pre ignition. Excessive carbon buildup will also contribute to pre ignition tendencies. We've all heard pre ignition in automotive engine, but I doubt you'd even realize this thing is doing it (couldn't hear it).
This is the whole reason that I used 100LL AVGAS in mine right from the start. Again... just my .02 cents worth!
BTW I just checked that gasket set that been sitting in glow fuel overnight. No weird stuff going on with the o rings, gaskets, or valve plates. Therefore I don't see any reason why not this carb could be used with glow fuel if you wanted to. The only remaining question is will it flow enough to handle glow and develop full power without leaning out.
And yes, the hotter it runs, the more prone it is to pre ignition. Excessive carbon buildup will also contribute to pre ignition tendencies. We've all heard pre ignition in automotive engine, but I doubt you'd even realize this thing is doing it (couldn't hear it).
This is the whole reason that I used 100LL AVGAS in mine right from the start. Again... just my .02 cents worth!
BTW I just checked that gasket set that been sitting in glow fuel overnight. No weird stuff going on with the o rings, gaskets, or valve plates. Therefore I don't see any reason why not this carb could be used with glow fuel if you wanted to. The only remaining question is will it flow enough to handle glow and develop full power without leaning out.
#1697
Senior Member
In my opinion... (for what it's worth LOL) I thing the actual failure of the cylinder was cause by detonation. I base that on the pictures of the inside of the cylinder in which it shows an unusual carbon pattern. Observe the area surrounding the valves, quite a bit of hard caked on carbon (cooked on oil due to high temp?), but on the other side almost clean. IMHO I think your seeing evidence of pre ignition which literally blasted off the carbon off the clean side just like you hit it with a hammer. I've replaced my fair share of pistons and head gaskets and even a head or two in engines that failed due to pre ignition. In this engine the weak spot just happens to be the jug.
And what about the uneven pattern on the skirt?
Never mind the fact that the "blasted" portion of the combustion chamber is on the front while the "blasted" portion of the ring land is at the rear. I would love to hear your explanation for that
Yes, detonation probably contributed somewhat to the failure but not as much as the misalignment which directed the majority of the stress to the rear portion of the cylinder base.
Last edited by SrTelemaster150; 05-14-2018 at 08:13 AM.
#1698
My Feedback: (48)
If it was misaligned to the extent it would "rock" the jug to the point of breaking it I'd expect to see a lot more damage to the piston and cylinder. Overheated just south of destruction and pre ignition finished it off!
I think I can speak for myself and bunch of others that we'd love to know what the reason for these failures are. I wish Saito would get involved in it as their name and my pocketbook are on the line with these engines.
I think I can speak for myself and bunch of others that we'd love to know what the reason for these failures are. I wish Saito would get involved in it as their name and my pocketbook are on the line with these engines.
#1699
Senior Member
If it was misaligned to the extent it would "rock" the jug to the point of breaking it I'd expect to see a lot more damage to the piston and cylinder. Overheated just south of destruction and pre ignition finished it off!
I think I can speak for myself and bunch of others that we'd love to know what the reason for these failures are. I wish Saito would get involved in it as their name and my pocketbook are on the line with these engines.
I think I can speak for myself and bunch of others that we'd love to know what the reason for these failures are. I wish Saito would get involved in it as their name and my pocketbook are on the line with these engines.
Last edited by SrTelemaster150; 05-14-2018 at 09:05 AM.
#1700
My Feedback: (48)
I didn't say I could explain it, but I think it's pretty clear something unusual is occurring to create that carbon pattern. Wouldn't you expect it to be pretty much uniform across the head? Especially with a semi-hemispherical combustion chamber? It's possible that the carbon never built up on that side, hence the clean ring land. Question still remains... how come?
I think if we had a pic of the piston crown one side would be carboned up and the other side clean to match the CC.
It almost looks like one side of the combustion chamber was considerably hotter than the other the other side. I know, that makes no sense and I've never seen anything like it, nor do I have an explanation for it.
I think if we had a pic of the piston crown one side would be carboned up and the other side clean to match the CC.
It almost looks like one side of the combustion chamber was considerably hotter than the other the other side. I know, that makes no sense and I've never seen anything like it, nor do I have an explanation for it.