,, I am going to go fly it tommorow,,, Wednsday,, I have put about 1 3/4 gallons through the engine,,, I need to put some more through it, ,the only thing that i can't figure out is,, when I crank it,, I can burp the throttle back and forth with someone holding it,, and the throttle sounds great, great transisition,, then when I taxi it down the run way and I start easing the throttle on from idle to full throttle it takes it about 4-5 seconds to start turning up,, I guess it is still to rich on the low end,, I guess I don't know,,,,just wondering what you guys think,,, when I get it in the air it does the same thing,,it runs good once I get it wide open, then when I start easing off the throttle to 1/2-idle it runs weak and sloppy sounds like it is going to cut off, then I shove it to full throttle and it takes it a couple of seconds to turn back up to full throttle ,, anyway ,, just wondering what this sounds like,, a rich low end, , or to rich of a high end,, or whatever thx

sounds messed up how much do u want for the motor u don't need the hassle

rich on the low end

With a little work I can prolly make it run so-so. Give ya hunnert bucks for it.

Work on the low needle a bit. About 1/16 turn at a time. make sure the engine is warmed up before you start tweaking on anything. If you happen to be hitting max rpm in level flight, richen the high needle a smidge after working the low needle. Max power on the upline, not level.

Classic symptom of an electronic advance with a rich low needle...

Good luck, I have had one of these for a couple of years and I am still fighting the same problem. I have tried every needle configuration. I can get it to run well with the cowl off and then when I install it and fly, it all changes. I have just ordered the carb plate so I can vent the carb diaphram into the fuse. Hopefully that will keep it more consistent with or without the cowl on. In general the motor runs good enough, but I am not sure I would purchase another BME motor. This has been too much screwing around and I lost faith in the company with the 3 or 4 years I waited on lists for the never going to happen 55. I hear the 115 is better, but once bitten twice shy.

yeah i left the hobby 4 a year and still that 55 did not come about

Gald to see you made it home safely Krayzc.

The 110/115 likes to be as lean as you can get it on the bottom. I too had some airflow issues and have tried the bme carb cover with vent line in the fuse, 3w 90 degree intake, and neither really helped. I tried last a rc blimp carbon carb cover and all my problems went away, so who knows. When you first start the engine first of the day, if it will transition right after start, it is too rich. It shouldnt take any throttle for the first 30 seconds or so, and after that it should transition perfectly. If you get it to that point, you are about on the low end. Like SS said, if you tweak on the low end and crank it in, make sure to open the high end a smidge.

Thanks for the help guys, what Flyinrazorback said is exactly what is happening, I start it up and it will transistion the first 20 seconds in the pits but as soon as I get on the runway it starts acting up ,,, I guess by the time it gets out to the runway about 30-40 seconds from start up it is doing exactly flyingrazorback said, I am going flying today and see if it fixs it,,, and for FYI I already have the Carbon Fiber Carb plate on the Carb,,,,,

Jon, if you are following what I mentioned the last time we talked I am sure you are rich on both needles. Slowly, as mentioned before, start leaning the needles until it will run right.

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Yeh RTK I have your message you sent me printed off, I was just wanting to get another gallon or so threw the engine before I start leaning to much more,, just be safe,, I was questioning you guys just to make sure this problem I am having isn't anything out of the ordinary,,,

It is good to always get a second opinions. After a few tanks most engines are more broken-in than most people think. I would start leaning.

I am going flying in about a hour or so , can't wait,, I will start leaning the low end some,,

You might need a little off of the high too, but you will be able to tell after leaning the low and flying.
Have fun flying, wish I could be too.

If ya quit tearing stuff up we could get out and fly a little....

Tearing stuff up?? Can't help it if the Chezc's made a bad batch of ignitions and the assemblers in Mexico screwed up my carb.
Oh don't worry, I can tear things up but good. This one time it wasn't my fault
Getting ready to order more pool acid

Did you tweak on the needles today? Just curious as I see you put it up for sale.

That Sukhoi sale ad is out of South Africa. Evolution 116. Strange that one is over there and flying already.

I tweeked and tuned and tweeked and tuned, and can't get the damn thing to transistion,,,,, I think I was 3/4 out on the low and
2 1/2 on high, however we tryed about ever combination,,,, , it would burp transisiton good on the sticks or with someone holding it,, but as I take the time to taxi out on the runway it just slugs around, and just for FYI someone is probrably thinking it is a air flow problem, but it does it constantly in a hover or what ever,,,,, I can be idling good and started easing to full throttle and then nail it to full throttle and it takes half the runway to start turning up, ,,, and in the air once you can get it to wide open throttle it rips the prop,, but for instance,, I can pull into a hover, and it sounds like it is going to cut off, but while it is hovering at pretty much idle, I can shove the throttle to full to pull out and the engine doesn't even want to change rpms, it just stays pretty much the same rpms,, it wont' even pull out of a hover, , ,I have 3 gallons through the engine now,,

I have seen myself in this scenario.
Although leaning the needles seemed to work, I got to the point where just was too way lean. Then I tried a lower diameter propeller, that is I went from 27X10 to 26X10 ( I thought the engine was still too new and I was too demanding) The transition improved, however started acting up again the following weekend.

A friend of mine that does not fly BME told me that the 27X10 must be the one to go and gave me couple of additional advices:

1) Clean up the spark plugs
2) Discard the fuel can and start with a new one
3) put back the 27X10

Since I was kind of lost in the needle setting I set the "factory" settings as per the BME manual recommendations. I did not need to change the “factory” settings they worked just wonderfully.

That seemed to work fine for couple of weekends; I was really pleased with these simple steps, however... last weekend started acting up again.

It is still in the broken in process? That weekend was particularly warm up here in Mexico; do the atmospheric conditions impact the gas engines in such degree? It is just a consequence of the engine being under the broken-in process and now need to re-adjust the needles again?

I guess next step is to start tweeking the needles however I am reluctant since they worked just fine couple of weeks ago.

I modified the crab plate and soldered a nipple and connected a line to avoid faulty diaphragm operation.
The engine has been baffled.

Any suggestions?

Jon--Give it one more shot with the high needle below 2 turns. If the high needle is set too high it will load up the lower mid range for some reason on that engine. That is why the 110 can be a little tricky. If you are too rich it acts strange, but it doesn't take that much to go past the "just right point" to the oops to lean point.

Albatross-- Drastic changes in atmospheric conditions will have an impact on needle setting, especially if you were on the edge of lean or rich.

Jon, its sounds like its simply to rich. BTW I did not receive any the emails from you that you mentioned in your last email to me. The high speed needle seams to affect the mod range the 110 more than the low needle. Still you want the low as lean as possible and still get a transition without hesitation.

Keith

Jon--Just try slowly leaning the high with each flight until the transition problem clears up. That way you should be perfect on the high for flight conditions without the worry of being to lean. As mentioned by others, keep the low pretty lean where you already are at. Once you get the transition cleaned up you will really like that engine.
If Keith says it sounds rich, it is.

Jon dont give up so easy. Ive seen a few of those run to good to think there is a problem. Bat Fastards runs great without any heasitation. Bring it to Fayetville so I can dog it real good for you.

FWB

you could have real problems 3- .