My engine is spinning a Vess 22A (22x8) 7900 rpm. Little difference...

My point was this that if I'm going to run the engine for four hours to break it in I'm going to fly it. Did it the same way i did my DA. There is no reason not to to fly it for the break in.

It actually helps to fly for the break in because you have more airflow over the engine. I have seen people burn the engines up by running them on the ground for too long.

And my point is that if an engine is broken in on the ground, you don't have to fly circles for several hours. Plus breaking it in on the ground allows for a more controlled run and you only need to touch the needles again if you're through the first 3 gallons of fuel.

And no, an engine can get much hotter in the air compared to an engine running w/o cowling @2500rpm. All overheating problems occur in the air and are either related to a lean run or poor airflow or both. No such issues on the ground.

I have never floan in circles for hours i fly 3D and all while I'm breaking the engines in. As for the engine getting much hotter in the air that is not true if the baffle is installed correctly. The engine will get much hotter on the ground run your engine at full throttle on the ground for five min. and shut it down and see how hot she is. Then do it in the air, you will see what I'm talking about.

I got 4 flights on my dl today and she ran great, I did have a deadstick but it was my fault, the fuel line inside the tank fell off. I fixed it at the field and kept flying.
I did notice that each time I went into a corner I noticed that the engine would slow down almost wanting to quit, I richened it up and that went away. I pulled the plug when I got home and it was a dark brown, I seem to remember someone saying it should be light brown.Am I right with the light brown???


Jeff

I followed Bob's advice as well. Mine hits 7440 with a true NX 22x8 prop. Not a a ,b or c, whatever those are. Isnt a Vess 22B the same as a "normal" 22x8 ? In my opinion 4 hours in nuts. Heres your sign

good thing I have access to a lawnboy ashless oil. I think I also have access to penzoil but not sure if it's the oil to use after break-in cuz I just called the local AG store.
My question:
Just in case I don't have access to penzoil or amsoil, what other oil do you guys recommend or have been using for your DL after break-in?

was turning 6960 after the first 20oz of fuel.........

Vess 22A 7800 after 3/4 gallon, 23B (23x10) 7200.

Now the Vess 22A is spinning 7900 after 2-1/2 gallons. I think the 23B will get somewhere between 7300 and 7400 on 80:1 synthetic. Have to finish half a gallon 32:1 first.

Glad everyone else runs a tank and flies.Flying circles may have been a bit over the top,most of us will fly mild aerobatics.I was 3Ding on my first flight,just never pushed the motor for any duration.
Most people do not have anywhere to run an engine for hours,without having the neighbors show up with a gun.Our flying site would also not allow such a practice for a long period.Whatever works I guess.
Personally I have never heard of anyone benchtesting or ground break in for 4 hours,especially an overseas throw away engine.But if it makes you feel better and think its the right thing to do,then noone is stopping you.
Happy flying

After all the discussions, for years....still folks want to break in an engine on one oil, then switch to a lean mix of synthetic. Get yourself an oil that is readily available, run a ratio of 32-50:1, tune that engine and fly it. Breaking in the engine, you want to heat cycle it. Tune it properly, fly it, let it cool down fully and repeat. No need to change oils later....as the engine breaks in, makes more power, requires a little further fine tuning....great. I see the break in procedure on the ground as being a great way for people that don't understand the importance of tuning and cooling, to get a head start on ruining their engines. Now if you are new to gas engines, and/or you'd like to spend some time familiarizing yourself with the operation of the carb...etc, fine. But a tank would suffice, like others have mentioned above.

Blah blah blah, an other of the so many opinions. You don't seem to have any idea what the purpose is of using a mineral in stead of synthetic oil for the first runs.

Hey, we all understand the use of mineral oil to initially assist in seating the ring(s)....more quickly. Enjoy the forums mstam1971

I have been one of the ones following this thread closely for understanding my new DL50. Setting aside some of the conflicting opinions, it has been a great resource to me. Thanks to all of your advice, I believe I am coming up to speed more quickly and developing some informed opinions myself.

Nevertheless, I still have some issues

One involves the use of a gas filter and the apparent adverse affect on my DL's performance. I could get it tuned well on the groundgood transition and a top end of ~7200 rpm with a 22B Vess using Lawnboy smokeless at 32:1. I had ground tested about a gallon. Based on Bob's (DLUSA) advice, I started some easy flying. The problem appeared to be the engine was leaning out in the air. Transition was sluggish and the mid-range had no power and lots of gurgling and hesitation. Only WOT seemed good. I had installed a [link=http://www.sullivanproducts.com/FuelSysComponentsMainFrame.htm]Sullivan Double-Screen "Crap Trap" Fuel Filter [/link]between the tank and the carb and was also using the [link=http://www.slimlineproducts.com/online_shop/excel_fueler.htm]Slimline Excel Gas Fueler [/link]. We discussed the potential need to vent the Walbro diaphram to inside the fuselage and, although we could not explain how air inleakage into the carb suction line could cause the problem I was seeing (i.e, change in tuning between the ground and the air), one of my flying buddies had the opinion that these components were unnecessary complications.

first, I soldered a section of copper fuel tube to the carb diaphram vent and ran it into the fuse and I pulled the Slimline fueler and replaced it with a filling plug and tee between the carb and tank. More testing showed these problems weren't the culprit. However, when I cut the Sullivan crap-trap filter out and ran a gas line straight from the fueling tee to the carb my engine ran great. Now it runs the same on the ground or air, has great transition and no hesitations at mid throttle. For the life of me I can't figure out why the filter caused this symptom. By the way, nothing was in the filter.

Any opinions?

Did you make sure that the flow of feul was in the right direction to the arow that some have?

No arrows, but the flow was in the correct direction. Even so, how does restricted fuel flow only work in the air and how does restricted fuel cause leaning at mid-throttle, but not WOT?

Hey Chris, I had to remove my hanger 9 fuel filter. She ran good on the ground but in flight she was blurpin and burpin and slurpin and everthing else.

When you make a turne you use the aileron and elevator that creates more drag on the plane = more load on engine, When engine starts to run out of feul it starts to lean out, If filter has a restricton it can cause a leane engine, Pending on the type of carb, that you may have restricted filter can cause leaning at mid range more so than at full throtel, The carb pump does not work as hard at mid range as it would at WOT.

Hey guys,
New DL-50 owner here, havent fired her up yet but plan to in the next few days. I bought Lawnboy ashless for break in and Belray MC1 Synth for after. Anyone else using Belray?

Questions: I'm at 4,400ft above sea level, wondering what ratio to go with on the Belray MC1 Synth and possibly the Lawnboy Ashless? I know what the manual recommends, I just don't know if my altitude would effect oil to fuel ratios like I know it effects carb tuning.

From what I understand about canisters... they only perform @ high rpms. Are there any other options that would increase performance throughout the entire throttle range that wouldtn't require a separate header/canister type setup?

I have seen alot of good comments on Belray MC1. Most use it at 50/1 and a few at 65/1. As for your altitude I don't think it has too much effect on your oil mix. I could see going a little richer (40/1) at extreme altitudes due to the lean fuel to air mixture, but not for 4,400 feet. PE or RCign could tell you for sure. I believe RCign is at about 6,000 feet.

Hey werew, I 've been using MC1 for years and love it. It keeps your engine shiny on the inside. No carbon deposits. Is Belray a better oil than other synthetics? I don;t tink so, but like I said it keeps everything clean. I use Pennsoil 2stroke for aircooled engines for break in and then switch to Belray. I break in my motors by flying them in my planes, not on the ground. That's not a good idea at all. First, not enough cooling, second the motor sucks up grid and dust from the ground. Fly your plane and be gentle on the throttle for a tank or two. That's it. You don't need to burn five gallons of mineral oil mix before switching to synthetic oil. Two or three tanks and I switch.

On our DLs we break in on 32-1 Pensoil ( FLY IN ) then switch to
50-1 Amsoil Dominator ... Motors run PERFECT !!!!! [8D]

I'd get ants in my pants w/ 4hrs. of break-in ground time... problem is I sorta made a mistake on my 1rst gasser plane purchase. I got a certain plane from a certain distributor who is taking his sweet time in replacing the broken canopy that came with this brand new plane. [:@] Shoulda spent an extra 100 more for a more reputable bird as far as replacement parts and customer service goes. Distributor guy told me it'd take a while because the manufacturer is in China. I told him that's bullshovik (in a nice diplomatic way) because i've received brand new items from China within 7 business days. He isn't responding to my emails now, I think he's waiting to place my canopy order with an inventory refreshment order to save $$$ with the manufacturer and/or trying to swing a deal with them to save himself $$$. I thought there'd be a lot more support for this plane with it being sold by 4 other well known shops like PAU, EastRC.... but nope.

Anyhoo, not to knock the plane... it has large surface area, quality throughout and is known to be a great flier, but it's a crash-once only/disposable airframe due to it taking a "flipping century" to get replacement parts. I'm thinking Aeroworks, Dietrich, SD/TT TOC or EF next time. Oh well, live & learn.

Good news is I found someone on another forum with a spare canopy and bought it from him, 1 week of waiting VS 4-8 weeks... lucked out a lil bit.

Anymore info on the DL-50 questions would be great.

Some of the metal paint on my ignition module has been damaged and is missing. Could this cause interference?

super8

got my new DL50 and found WT831 and below it is 918. it's got the # 34 stamped inside.
Is there a letter printed in the ignition indicating the version?