DL-50 engine
#4352
Once the Helli coils are installed they are awesome, very permanent. That's why I went for the Helli coil for 80 dollars instead of a 40 dollar head. I like the red loctite because if you let the motor warm up good you can back them out. Its not easy but they do come out. Just mho.
#4353
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From: ISTANBUL, TURKEY
ORIGINAL: giddyuperic
I don't know where I heard this but it works great. Take them apart and when they are nice and cool put a little oil on the threads and they won't come apart. It works I do it on my saito's and they never come loose.
I don't know where I heard this but it works great. Take them apart and when they are nice and cool put a little oil on the threads and they won't come apart. It works I do it on my saito's and they never come loose.
Ive used blue loctite for its actual use on engine standoffs (along with lock washers), clevises and axles etc, and red loctite for permenant bearing installations. (or actual permenant nut locking)
Im sorry but if you are stripping threads when installing steel screws into aluminum, either you dont know how to treat aluminum threads, the material is inferior or you hesitate and think you havent tighten it up enough already.
#4355
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From: Bunkie,
LA
Guys I know this is a change of subject, but is that dl-50 a awesome engine are what? I decided to start mine and run it, the thing starts really well and runs fantastic, even running rich!!! Really glad I bought the engine, just wanted to tell you guys. I have to tell somebody, my wife could care less, so theres no use talking to her about it.
#4357
Liquid TR, I can't speak for everyone but I had my muffler come loose 3 times. Once I tried blue locktite. The second time somone told me to just ues high temp silicon on the bolts. The third time I used nothing on the threads because someone told me that the heat was making my blue locktite melt. The last time it came loose it pulled all the threads out of the head. So now what? I ordered a heili coil set and fixed the threads. Now after all that listening to others wrong advice. I figured it out on my own. Go to the hardware store get longer bolts. Get lock washers and small flat washers. And use red locktite. It works and does not come loose with the longer bolts with washers. DON'T USE THE GASKET THAT COMES WITH THE MUFFLER!!!! High temp silicon is the only gasket that works.
#4358

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From: Winston Salem,
NC
ORIGINAL: Moki 1.8
Guys I know this is a change of subject, but is that dl-50 a awesome engine are what? I decided to start mine and run it, the thing starts really well and runs fantastic, even running rich!!! Really glad I bought the engine, just wanted to tell you guys. I have to tell somebody, my wife could care less, so theres no use talking to her about it.
Guys I know this is a change of subject, but is that dl-50 a awesome engine are what? I decided to start mine and run it, the thing starts really well and runs fantastic, even running rich!!! Really glad I bought the engine, just wanted to tell you guys. I have to tell somebody, my wife could care less, so theres no use talking to her about it.
#4361
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From: Miami beach, FL
ORIGINAL: paul5992
DON'T USE THE GASKET THAT COMES WITH THE MUFFLER!!!! High temp silicon is the only gasket that works.
DON'T USE THE GASKET THAT COMES WITH THE MUFFLER!!!! High temp silicon is the only gasket that works.
First image after 2 hours break-in at 2500 rpm. Second image 100+ flights. Gasket isn't leaking, nuts still in place, even w/o washers because of a lack of space. I used the white heat resistant thread locker from Advance Auto Parts.
#4362
thank you all for the input it is all good advise but everyone has there way of doing things because that is what works for them and what ever works for you keep using it ,. keep up the handing out the good advise all none of the guys like me could do with out ya THANK YOU I am going to have make something work for my applaction
JIM
JIM
#4364
I'm tired of giving advise. Gaskets have been the root of all my problems in all my mufflers. But here again someone has said they don't have any problems using them. I've been flying RC for 20 years and into gas for 4 years. Some of you will learn the way I did. "I know it all and no one can tell me that my setup is unsafe or not going to work." But eventually I had the same problems that they warned me about.
Mstam1971 the photo you showed us is of a steal header they don't expand or contract as much as an aluminum muffler to notice a leak right away but it will happen. Count on it.
Quote "you might want to check your prop balance" You must think this is my first day.
Mstam1971 the photo you showed us is of a steal header they don't expand or contract as much as an aluminum muffler to notice a leak right away but it will happen. Count on it.
Quote "you might want to check your prop balance" You must think this is my first day.
#4365
Paul5992, you sound like you are ticked off, if I have done so sorry but I am gratefull for your advise , & I to have been flying for excess 20 years and 2 yrs gas this will be my third year in gas
JIM
JIM
#4366
No SIXGUNS I'm not ticked off. I just think it's funny to read the same kind of argument that I would have used years a go. You know who knows just about everything there is to know about these engines? JediJody, Jody at valley View RC is a whiz. Call him and ask him. Don't put all your fruit in this holey basket.
#4368
You mean the answers to all the world's problems can't be found on RCU? [sm=eek.gif] If there is one thing I know for sure, it's that I don't know everything for sure! There is always more to learn about anything. Other peoples experiences can be very useful tools, it's how you use them that makes a difference. There are many that have a much broader knowledge about what we are all doing here, but for whatever reason gas engines do seem to like my touch.
#4371
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From: Miami beach, FL
I agree w/ Jody. We are here to share knowledge and our opinions you don't have to agree with [8D] Always liked [link=http://tweakshop.net/images/tettra.jpg]to tweak things[/link] and lost one YS110 muffler only in 6 years, sorry.
If you use screws of the correct length and some heat resistant thread locker w/ the stock gasket on a clean surface, the muffler will never come off, unless it cracks of course.
Owh, and about Jody. I'm sure he is very knowledgeable w/ what he's doing for a living, but that doesn't mean we're not entitled to our own opinion.
If you use screws of the correct length and some heat resistant thread locker w/ the stock gasket on a clean surface, the muffler will never come off, unless it cracks of course.
Owh, and about Jody. I'm sure he is very knowledgeable w/ what he's doing for a living, but that doesn't mean we're not entitled to our own opinion.
#4373
I hate to take you guys off your topic. But what is the best way to balance a prop? All I have is that thing you screw into to main hole and spin it in and it screws in from both sides. And I have seen people balance the prop up and down and then the hub at 1 and 7 ?? I might have that all wrong that is why I am asking please and thank you. Eric
#4375

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From: Patchogue,
NY
Hey everyone, thanks for the thread! I have a question (posted on another thread but nobody replied so far):
I'm going to put my new DLE-55 into PA Clip Wing Monocoupe for a season, a bit concerned about prop clearance. Can I use smaller prop (like 20x12 or even 18x12) in flight and restrict throttle to never exceed 7000-7200rpm? Is it ok to use smaller prop for break in, too?
I'm going to put my new DLE-55 into PA Clip Wing Monocoupe for a season, a bit concerned about prop clearance. Can I use smaller prop (like 20x12 or even 18x12) in flight and restrict throttle to never exceed 7000-7200rpm? Is it ok to use smaller prop for break in, too?



Seriously though he does give great advice!