That's why they are out of business and we took over their repairs at Troy Built for the factory.

If anyone need the screen that goes in the Carb.I got spare material,let me know gladly will ship for free

At the moment there are 4 places to obtain service for a DL engine. Valley View R/C, Wild Hare R/C, Troybuilt, and Bill Jensen's Engine Service.

Its nice to know we still have great support from these places, I thought DLUSA was in it for the long haul but I guess things can happen, being in a small business myself I know its hard to keep your head above water in these tough times

I take it this means warranty work as well as other repairs.

I am still having trouble getting my low speed needle set.
On my previous post the engine would kill or go to a lower than usual rpm when the throttle was reduced quickly. The remedy for this was to richen up the low end.
Now I can't seem to get the sweet spot. It seems as if it either quits or has inconsistent idle speed due to a lean low speed needle setting, or it sputters and hesitates when the throttle is advanced to full after flying at about a medium throttle setting which would be too rich of a low needle setting. When it is leaned too much, it also becomes hard to start. There is about 1/8 turn difference between these two conditions.
I am running 91 octane non-oxygenated gasoline with Pennzoil at 32:1 ratio. I am using a Vess 22A prop. I am using an NGK CM-6 plug. The timing is between 28°- 29°. The vent from the carburetor is vented to the interior of the plane. I now am about 1/2 way through my 3rd gallon of fuel.

Jody...JoeAirPort...Would the velocity stack you mentioned earlier in this post help with the rich mid range problem? I don't see this item on the Valley View web site.

Greg

The V-stack is an engine part, you will need to call if you want to order engine parts. The V-stack will not help the condition you describe, first thing I would do is get some regular gas, 87 octane and don't worry about the 10% alcohol, will run for years without a problem.

Start over over with the carb adjustments, go here; http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_90...tm.htm#9103251 see post #124 by Aussiesteve and follow those adjusting instructions.

I'm wondering if some of you would be so kind as to post pics of your engine installation showing how the throttle and ventilation door controls are hooked up. I have a DL-50 that might be about 18 months old, and I am just now getting it installed in an Extra 330L that also is that old. This is my first gasser. I actually have seen a few pics on different posts, and in one I saw a guy hook up a manual pushrod for the ventilation door. On another pic, it looked that there was nothing hooked up to the ventilation door. That leads me to the question on whether it has to be hooked up at all. Seems it would vibrate any which way though, if not hooked up to something positive. Attached is a pic of my engine just in case there were different versions. Thanks guys! Jon

Here is the simple solution to your problem. use the new ZDZ carborator arms with the ball link attached to a nyrod. This is the easiest way to hook it up. The red nyrod runs even to the firewall and then the yellow inner rod comes out. All you have to do is use a 4/40 threaded stud from sullivan and thread in in the ball link and then in the yellow nyrod.
If you have a 4-40 tap you can start the treading process in the yellow rod with that. The link will show you the two size arms. the small is for the choke and the larger one for the trottle.

http://www.troybuiltmodels.com/cgi-bin/commerce.cgi

Just tached my engine again after 200+ flights and it's still at exactly 7200rpm. Vess 23B, MTW header and RE2 pipe, 93 octane gas w/ Stihl HP Ultra 50:1. Will go back to 89 octane for the next refill.

Hello, I was hoping someone could help me with a problem that I am having in keeping my muffler bolts tight on my DL50. I have already lost one muffler completely to the loosening of the bolts and now have switches to Ultra Copper to try to keep them tight and that is failing also. Is there anyway to keep this muffler tightened to this motor?

Thanks!!

I know some will jump me on this but I used red loctite on mine and they have never loosened up. I just used a small amount of it. We have 3 at the field and we have all done this.

You could also use the trick we use with our Moki's. Drop some dowels into holes to length and put a metal band clamp across it this way it CANT come out. It just looks like crap. And its Band CLAMP.. not band camp

I have tried red loctite already and the permatex Ultra Copper gasket stuff and they all melt to nothing and the bolts start to back out again. I was wondering if there was an extreme high temp material that could be used.

STILL hopin some of you can post some pics of your linkages to the engine to help me along on my first gasser. I want to see how you route the throttle linkage to a servo, and what you have to do on the manual ventilation arm. Thanks! Jon

For some years I've been using white loctite on the muffler screws available at Advance Auto Parts with great success.

Do you mean the throttle arm and the choke arm.

For the throttle arm, just remove the arm on there now and use one of the blue Hitec servo arms turn it 180 dergress and your good to go.

The choke depends on wether your going to use a servo our manual

You could also look at Page 121 Post #3002 for pictures of the choke and throttle setup.

Hope this helps

theres another way to keep those muffler bolts tight,,,and that is to make sure your prop is well balanced,, and to cut off excess exhaust tube legnth to reduce the vibrational mass ,,plus this prevents the usual seam failure on the tube anyway,,,your last resort also ,,,you could use longer bolts with some quality washers and lockwashers ,,,not the cheap ones that smash down ,and do nothing.

On mine, I cut a thin aluminum 90' gussett, and heliarced it at the tube joint at the muffler... The gear broke off on a bad landing, and the muffler tube bent back about 45', crushing the canister end......still no leak and it's still flying... this will work....

Thanks n57tc! Those pics are worth thousands of words, really. I started from page one of this super long thread and gave up after 20 pages of looking. I bought two small metal gear servos for my throttle and kill. I just need to set up servo locations and control rod linkages to the throttle and choke arms on the engine. I'd still like to see someone's setup for those servos if anyone has pics!!! Thanks. Jon

PS: OK, I found more pics in this thread way back when. One thing I notice is that folks have only set the choke up for manual operation. Does that mean nobody uses it for killing the engine? Is everyone going with an electronic kill, if that is the right term. Jon

Jon I use an electronic kill on my engines unless for some reason I cannot use a manual choke. Then and only then will I use a servo on the choke and leave out the electronic kill. Here are a couple of pics for you.

Make ya a deal. Come on up to the Washougal WA flying field on Sunday and I'll help you set it up. Off Hwy 14 and 32nd street.

Pat

Hey thanks T.O.M. but I just need a few pics and questions answered, then I can do this thing, lol. (And to tell you the truth, I rather be flying on Sunday than driving anywhere.) Thanks all for your informative responses and patience with another newb. Jon

Now there is an offer I would jump at if I ever had the chance. Very kind offer you gave him Pat. [sm=thumbs_up.gif]

I think three quarters of the guys in gas forum would jump at that chance.
John

It always stands open to all If I'm at a flying field, I'll help.