I just sent Bob an email at [email protected] and then called the next morning because Iam impatient and left him a message. He called me back within an hour or two. I have had great service from Bob, although the engine is generally so reliable I haven't needed much from him.

JNJ55024,
                        ONE THING YOU MITE TRY DOING IS TO CHECK AND SEE IF THERE IS A BROKEN WIRE FROM THE SENSOR TO THE MODULE  AND CHECK THE MAGNET  IS IT BROKEN OR CRACKED IF THIS ENGINE WENT IN AT FULL THROTTLE AT ONE POINT ANY THING IS POSIBLE AND YES THE HALL SENSOR COULD HAVE BEEN DAMAGED FROM THE CRASH JUST BY THE WAY IT WAS RUNNING ON SUNDAY IT SOUNDED LIKE THE IGN. WAS BEING CUT IN AND OUT  LIKE  A  TIMING PROBLEM  I WOULD SAY THAT WHEN YOU CLOSED THE HIGH SIDE NEEDLE ALL THE WAY IT WAS STILL RUNNING ON THE LOW SIDE YOU MITE WANT TO TAKE THE CARB APART AND CHECK IT FOR CRACKS  OR DAMAGED GASKETS




JIM

I took the carb apart and it looked good. nothing broken, dirty or plugged. It acted like it was super rich but abviously with the high needle shut all the way it wasn't rich. It has to be ignition but to have both ignition modules act the same way is binding that theory. Jeremy said he would let me try a new ignition module to see if that is the issue. I still need to try and get ahold of a new hall sensor. I think the wires may have gotten yanked and possible damage in the crash when the motor was spinning around at a different rate than the fuse.

It was a spectacular crash you should have seen it. Still licking my wounds, I loved that plane.

You should read 20 ohm's across the hall sensor.

Double post. what the heck?

JNJ Have you ever eaten at the farmington steak house? I Love That Place.

Yeup, gotta have the RibEye at least once per quarter. I think his name is Pete that runs the place. Ithink Farmington Steak House was our first stop the night we moved in town?

By the way, on the hall sensor ordeal. I have plugged in the ignition module to a fresh battery, have the plug in the socket attached to the ignition module and spin the prop to see if Isee spark. Nothing.

I moved the wire going into the sensor and spin the prop again and viola!! Spark Spark Spark.

I ordered a new sensor from Jody at Valleyview RC. Awesome service, he even had the elusive spinner bolt I needed for a Dave Brown 3.5" spinner to this DL motor (very hard to find a 5MM x 65MM cap screw) I got a couple other things coming from him too.

I am going to borrow one from my freind Brian until the new one shows up. Aparently he is the Godfather of RC, he has one of everything, is willing to loan them out and generally has the answer to my questions. He was a real life saver at the field Sunday with a big geared down starter which helped with the very sluggish motor I was flipping all afternoon in the sun!!

Thanks for everybody's advice. All of it was good and pointed me down the road to eliminating one thing after another till I found what was ailing my beloved Timex er-uhh DL-50 (takes a licking and keeps on ticking) I think I've busted a dozen blades on this thing and it seems to be untouched inside. I checked the play in the bearings and wrist pin, still tight, no air leaks in the case or front bearing unbelievable. It should have been oozing oil out of every seam after what it's been through.

Every time I crash I learn something. I'm tired of learning things. The lesson this time is "stay 2-3 mistakes high until you are too old to hot dog" ok or at least until my wallet recovers a little.

Can anyone tell me,which way  angle the engine,to neutralize the thrust of propeller

If you're standing over the airplane, angle it to the right. But then the engine should be mounted a little to the left to keep the prop hub centered on the air plane center line. This is usually around 1/4" depending on the angleand how long the engine is. Hope that helps.

THANKS JOE

Paul5995, I sure like that kind of data. Is 20 OHMS about the correct reading on most all hall sensors? Thanks Much Capt,n

I don't know? I've only checked my DL's Hall sensor.

Aircraft MFG should provide the degree off right thrust needed set eng. Normal setting on most will be about 2.5 degrees of right thrust. As someone stated the engine must be moved off center line to mate the spinner to the cowl. Thrust on the up/down should be 0 degrees. I lways find it very helpful to have a digital level ( Sears has a 10 in, digital that will give you a reading withen 1/10 of a degree. these are about $35. I also use this to check wing and stab incidence. ) Just because it an ARF, doesn't mean it is right.

I like the Hanger 9 angle pro incidence meter I have two of them and they work greate,

Except getting batteries is tough. I've seen plenty of threads lately.

Sorry to take you guys off topic. But I found a 20oz tank and I would like to know does the cluk have to be right at the backwallof the tank? Or do you want it to be off the back wall some? I was at the LHS and bang there was a du-bro 20oz with the step in front it fit's right in there perfect.

The clunk should not touch the rear wall of the tank so it will be free to swing side to side.

Rcflyr

Jody,

Does ValleyviewRC have a canister muffler system for the DL-50/55?

Thanks,

Rcflyr

I think everyone has a cannister muffler for the DL 50/100. It's a straight exchange with anything that fits a DA 50/100. Tomy makes bolt on systems for the DL, which most of the DL dealers carry. Not up to the quality of the products DA handles but they are less expensive.

I re-tuned my DL50 this morning, out at the field. It is probably not fully run in yet and last time I adjusted it got it too lean thenI was too heavy handed fixing that and ended up too rich on the low end. Now perfect BUT it threatens to die whenever I roll the plane. This happened to me a couple of weeks before as well. It sounds like it is going rich, and if I try multiple rolls - well I chicken out before it actually dies.

Loops, dives, verticals are all fine; it isjust rolls that give the problem. Any ideas guys?

Perhaps a diaphragm imbalance issue. Not hard to work with if you can add a nipple to the hole in the diaphragm cover. Easier still to first try adding something over the hole in the cover that will prevent impact air from hitting the hole dead on or suctioning across it. Make sure one end of the cover remains open and does not close off the hole.

Well my buddy helped me get my DLE-55 going today . It has awesome pull from the get go . I could tell it was breaking in cause the idle was getting smoother as time went by at lower RPM's . I'm lovin gas motors already . Everytime I let it cool down it took only 2-3 flips and it was going . Hopefully the winds aren't gusting over 20MPH 2morrow so I can take'er up .

My friend also told me of the diaphram issue . He said on the yak the turbulance of air inside the cowl of the Yak54 will make the engine sputer on a roll if you try to keep a constant speed . Said he fixed it with a nipple hooked up to the diaphram and a line running from that to a nipple on a film container which sat in the fuse. . It gets enough air to operate properly with out getting disturbed by any outside BAD influences .

Thanks, I recall reading about that before, but I didn't associate it with rolls. I'll do the job properly and solder on a nipple and run a line into a wee box or a fuel canister in the fuse.
I'll let you know next week (weather permitting) how it goes.

If the Dubro you bought has a black stopper, do not use either the stopper or the tubing in the bag. Only the reddish-brown Dubro stopper is "gas usable". Silicon tubing that works for nitro will NOT work for gas; you need tygon (yellow), neoprene (black), or Viton (black, smoother feel).

Bob,

Do you have any experience with K&S Sta-Flex? http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXYE85Says it's good for glow and gas.

Rich
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[quote]ORIGINAL: Rfabbre


[quote]ORIGINAL: Bob Pastorello


If the Dubro you bought has a black stopper, do not use either the stopper or the tubing in the bag. Only the reddish-brown Dubro stopper is

Yes.... don't trust it. Becomes rigid very quickly, probably faster than Tygon.