Thanks guys for the timely replies.
I didn't know the DA and DL ignitions were nocompatable. I looked through my stash and found a new ignition from one of my BME 58CC engines. It has the Rcaxl logo on it. I'm assuming that one would work.

I'll pull the carb and try cleaning it out everywhere I can find. But I must say....I've never fully disassembled a carb before. So far I've never had a problem. But it's about time I did it just to educate myself. Anything inparticular I should be aware of when disassembling?

I'll do the carb cleaning first....then go to the ignition if necessary.

Thanks
Barry

Don't pull the carb yet!!! Start the engine run it up to just before it quits and close the high speed needle to see if it is the carb or not.

Eliminate one possible problem before you make another.

Good advice....that's what I'll do.
THanks
Barry

I'll explain how to fix the carb if that's what it is.

Hi Folks,

I received my 3rd-this time a DLE55- Dl engine on friday, directly from China for 315$ with free EMS.All I can say its a really good bargain.I put it in my Composite ARF EXTRA 2X2. It started for the 4th flip and I saw immediately it was going to be my best DL engine.After 2 sec of running it turned 7480 rpm on 1:30 gas/stihl oil mix ,MenzS 22x8 prop.I already flew it on saturday and today as well and it behaves as if it would be an engine after 20 gallons of fuel.Extremely easy to start,stabil idle, very good high rpm,silky smooth transition,prop ripping sound at 3/4 throttle If this engine will be as reliable ,powerful like my 2 Dl 50,then I"ll be very satisfied with it.

Regards,

Georgee

Same experience with mine. They work awesome right out of the box. The only thing you need to do is tune them.

Actually, I didn"t even touch the needles.It was perfect right out of the box.[8D] Like my other 2 Dl s.

I'd never trust factory settings.

Has anyone else had an issue, on the DL50, if stripping the prop hub threads. I have done it for the second time. Was changing props and doing the initial tightening when I heard it pop. At first I thought it might be a broken bolt, but the bolt is fine. I have ran this engine and a DA 50 for about 3 seasons now, so its not a case of not knowing how to tighten the bolts. Using the same method and tools on both engines. In fact I have changed props many times on the DA with out any issues.

That generally happens when a bolt has been over torqued a few times. The threads in the holes are in some ways similar to a spring. They can only be stretched by so much for so long before they let go. Same happens if a bolt is just a fraction long. Much over 40 inch pounds and the threads will eventually break free.

This is the first I have heard of someone having problems with the threads stripping. It may be an isolated case or maybe you are a little stronger than you thought. I would just get a new hub and go from there. I would like to buy a small touque driver myself, but they are hard to find without spending a small fortune.

I know I'd like a small torque driver too. All I have is a gorilla sized one.

jedijody/T.O.M., What's the scoop on the new DLE-30? Have either of you tested this engine or know of someone that has? Should I start a new thread for this engine or is there one already? If this engine is anything like the DL-50 it should be one sweet little engine for my 90" clipped wing "T-Craft".

I have a torque-driver and use it on every single engine I handle. I wouldn't even think of not using it. It is a necessity for any "motorhead". If you do buy one make sure it is certified and calibrated with documentation of calibration or you might as well get your allen wrenches back out!!![8D]

Whare did you get your's and how much did you pay for it Im sure we all would like to know, Thanks

My DL-50 idles great and high end is smooth at full throttle. Fully broke in. It gurgles badly at above mid range and the plug is oily and has carbon on top the piston. The engine runs fine and has not stopped running because of fouling. It is pretty hard to start when hot. I figure the plug is fouling at starting. I am using Bel-Ray mc-1 full syn. at 50:1 ratio. I replaced the stock plug with the NGK-cm-6 but it got oily too so i put the stock plug back in after cleaning. Could someone give me a simple way to lean this thing out? Repeat. Please keep it simple. I don`t want to screw it up and ruin the engine too lean. Thanks guys.

Turn the low needle CW until it won't transition anymore. Then back it off CCW just until it will transition again (but a very fast transition). Your low needle will be perfect at this point.

Check your peak RPM. If it's holding a steady RPM for 5 seconds turn the high needle a little at a time CW and watch it gain RPM. Keep going CW until it won't gain anymore RPM. You should leave it the point of where it just starts to not gain any more RPM. Your high needle should be all set.

The high needle is furthest from the cylinder head. (Edited).

PS: As long as you don't run your engine wide open for more than 5 seconds or so you won't ruin it.

I think the low speed needle is closest to the engine, and the high speed is furthest away?
Sam

Correct

Thanks Joe, i will try it this weekend.

Yeah thanks. A friend e-mailed me and alerted me to my mistake. It's fixed now.

Valve floater, From looking at your picture is appears that your muffler is right up against the back of your engine and may be blocking the airflow on the backside of your engine. This could drastically effect the performance of your engine. I would seriously consider, if you have the room, to somehow move the muffler away from the cylinder head. If you have a hot spot on the backside of your cylinder it could distort the sleeve and burn up your engine. At the least it would make it hard to set your carb needles for full range operation. Just my personal observation.

I do not have the new DLE-30 (yet). I was hoping to hear from someone that does.

Speedy

I saw there was an L & h marked by each jet.

Well the DL 30 has finaly hit the market, Can't wait for the first report, I will purchase one as soon as the reports say's there are good to go,

im a dl 50 owner and my experience has been as expected for the 285 i paid from canada ,it pulls my 30% yak from hover at 3400 feet altitide,,with a well balanced vess 23 a w /super unleaded  no ethanol gas,stock muffler,but honestly ,instead of buying a tuned pipe ,i replaced it with a mt57cc,,now it really pulls out,,,but back to the dl...it starts good it runs strong cost ,,what 350.00 lesst than a da ,its worth it even with the leaky plug threads  and lower grade aluminum and the endplay (check yours) theyre great  meybe a better quality case on ign ,tighter bearings,end play and theres no reason they shouldnt give a better moffler a few thousands os an inch is all it takes,the fix is cut it short,and put a bead of jb weld around the seam ether before it breaks or after or just buy an aftemarket,ive put the dl 50 on a smaller 82  inch plane ,perfect ,im sure they will be cheaper now since the 55 and the one the resembles it from hobby city for 235.00 im sure any good tuned pipe will incerase performance ,,but its only my opinion its better to find one made for what you really want mt 57 400.00 da you know but theres several others but bottom line worth it,theyre good.

My guess is you're over tightening the bolts. I have two DL 50s with no problems there (or anywhere). I've had the one engine apart a few times and had the prop off many times with no problems. It doesn't take as much torque as one would think to get the prop bolts sufficiently tightened (but I don't know what the actual torque spec. is).