DL-50 engine
08-12-2009 | 10:24 PM
#5252
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From: Pullman,
WA
RE: DL-50 engine
I use a method I read about in RC Report, by Dick Pettit. You apply a bead of the red high temp silicone gasket material, and then gently tighten the bolts by hand until the silicone starts to squeeze out in a bead. Then tighten very slightly with a ball driver. Then let the silicone dry overnight, then tighten the bolts ( with a lockwasher) down snug. I've tried other ways, but this way has worked the best and the bolts have not come loose.
Sam
Sam
08-12-2009 | 11:40 PM
#5253
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From: San Jose,
CA
RE: DL-50 engine
Hey guys, I just came back from running from 55 for the first time. All I can say is Wow Wow Wow!!! A few flips to get it primed without ignition. Turn ignition on, close choke, flip 3 times, and pop! Open choke, flip twice, pop, and on the third flip we were in business. I just ran it for 5 minutes or so and it already feels like it's got tons of power. I didn't get to tach it at all because it was late, but I'll be sure to tach it on my next runs as the engine breaks in. So far, I'm very pleased and excited for this engine!!!
BTW, just for reference, I'm using Pennzoil 2 Stroke Air Cooled oil mixed at a 32:1 ratio. It's on a Slimline Pitts Style Inverted Muffler bought for a total of $108.00 including shipping from DA. I forgot to say that I scrapped the stock plug and went with a NGK CM-6 even before starting the engine.
BTW, just for reference, I'm using Pennzoil 2 Stroke Air Cooled oil mixed at a 32:1 ratio. It's on a Slimline Pitts Style Inverted Muffler bought for a total of $108.00 including shipping from DA. I forgot to say that I scrapped the stock plug and went with a NGK CM-6 even before starting the engine.
08-13-2009 | 08:15 AM
#5254
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From: Pullman,
WA
RE: DL-50 engine
I'm running the stock muffler and a Xoar 22x8 prop, same Pennzoil mix you are. When I adjusted the high speed needle on the second tank of gas it was taching 7200 easy. That's quite a bit more rpm than my last 50cc, and I'm betting it's more than my 3w50i.
Sam
Sam
08-13-2009 | 05:04 PM
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From: Red Wing,
MN
RE: DL-50 engine
After Breakin you guys will see even stronger numbers. I'm getting 7650rpm on a 22x8 Xoar. That's with about 4 gallons of lawn boy ashless. I just switched to Bell-ray MC-1 50to1. This motor is a power house on the stock muffler.
08-13-2009 | 05:38 PM
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From: MannumSouth Australia, AUSTRALIA
RE: DL-50 engine
Guys does it make a dif. to the rpm if you use the heavier laminated Xoar 22x8 in comp. to the lighter beechwood Xoar? I'm using the laminated and the best I can get is 6820. Any ideas here?
08-13-2009 | 05:47 PM
#5257
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RE: DL-50 engine
The laminated Xoar is the better prop. Most of that extra rpm found with the Beech prop is lost through inefficiency. You'll have higer rpm numbers with the Beech, but lower actual performance.
Regarding Dick Pettit's method of using a Permatex gasket sealer. Anything that oozes to the outside also oozes to the inside. Anything that oozed to the inside became a port restriction after it dried, reducing the engine's ability to exhaust hot gasses. Not a very smart thing to do.
Regarding Dick Pettit's method of using a Permatex gasket sealer. Anything that oozes to the outside also oozes to the inside. Anything that oozed to the inside became a port restriction after it dried, reducing the engine's ability to exhaust hot gasses. Not a very smart thing to do.
08-13-2009 | 06:00 PM
#5258
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From: Gales Ferry, CT
RE: DL-50 engine
What muffler are you using?
ORIGINAL: The Big Kahuna
Guys does it make a dif. to the rpm if you use the heavier laminated Xoar 22x8 in comp. to the lighter beechwood Xoar? I'm using the laminated and the best I can get is 6820. Any ideas here?
Guys does it make a dif. to the rpm if you use the heavier laminated Xoar 22x8 in comp. to the lighter beechwood Xoar? I'm using the laminated and the best I can get is 6820. Any ideas here?
08-13-2009 | 06:03 PM
#5259
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From: Gales Ferry, CT
RE: DL-50 engine
T.O.M.,
I use the same method as Dick. We are talking about a 1/64" bead not a glop of goo.
I use the same method as Dick. We are talking about a 1/64" bead not a glop of goo.
ORIGINAL: Tired Old Man
Regarding Dick Pettit's method of using a Permatex gasket sealer. Anything that oozes to the outside also oozes to the inside. Anything that oozed to the inside became a port restriction after it dried, reducing the engine's ability to exhaust hot gasses. Not a very smart thing to do.
Regarding Dick Pettit's method of using a Permatex gasket sealer. Anything that oozes to the outside also oozes to the inside. Anything that oozed to the inside became a port restriction after it dried, reducing the engine's ability to exhaust hot gasses. Not a very smart thing to do.
08-13-2009 | 07:25 PM
#5261
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From: Gales Ferry, CT
RE: DL-50 engine
I would think you would be getting higher rpm. If that's what is normal then the 22X8 lam is the right prop for my engine and the 23x8 lam will be too much without a tuned pipe.
08-13-2009 | 08:59 PM
#5263
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RE: DL-50 engine
It requires very little sealant to make an effective seal. I don't use the heavy silicone gasket compounds, only Permatex Ultracopper, so I can't speak for how well they do or don't work. The Ultracopper is used on literally many hundreds of engines without using a gasket, and has been for years. In every application it is applied as an extremely thin film, with every effort to eliminate any chance of oozing into the path of exhaust gasses. Any lip or ridge created inside the port reduces exhaust efficiency, and performance. For some, any reduction in performance can be a critical issue.
There's no need now, nor has there ever been, a reason to apply a thick bead of sealant. 1/64" is actually quite thick for the intended purpose of the material. Those that have had issues with screws backing out of the muffler may have failed to use a thread lock compound, used the wrong kind of thread lock compound, failed to install a support bracket on the muffler, or used screws of incorrect size. Not using a fiber gasket has not been the cause of loosening screws. The opposite is generally true. By eliminating the gasket the muffler generally remains attached much longer, especially when a support bracket is also used on the muffler.
There's no need now, nor has there ever been, a reason to apply a thick bead of sealant. 1/64" is actually quite thick for the intended purpose of the material. Those that have had issues with screws backing out of the muffler may have failed to use a thread lock compound, used the wrong kind of thread lock compound, failed to install a support bracket on the muffler, or used screws of incorrect size. Not using a fiber gasket has not been the cause of loosening screws. The opposite is generally true. By eliminating the gasket the muffler generally remains attached much longer, especially when a support bracket is also used on the muffler.
08-13-2009 | 10:10 PM
#5264
RE: DL-50 engine
ORIGINAL: We3R/C
Hi, New DL-50 owner here! I have a question: What size are the threads on the Hub? I am looking for a Spinner, and can't seem to find the spec's. What Muffler do ya'll like over stock? (looking for Pitt's type) Thanks~Mike
Hi, New DL-50 owner here! I have a question: What size are the threads on the Hub? I am looking for a Spinner, and can't seem to find the spec's. What Muffler do ya'll like over stock? (looking for Pitt's type) Thanks~Mike
I also like to apply aluminum tape inside the cowl around the engine and exhaust tube openings.
08-14-2009 | 07:12 AM
#5266
RE: DL-50 engine
krproton
I admire your clean set-up. Nice job. But there is one thing I noticed i would correct. I would put a piece of foam under the ignition box to prodect it from vibrations.
I admire your clean set-up. Nice job. But there is one thing I noticed i would correct. I would put a piece of foam under the ignition box to prodect it from vibrations.
08-14-2009 | 07:40 AM
#5268
RE: DL-50 engine
Thanks thevirginian.
There is a thick film of RTV silicone rubber on the bottom of the ignition box and the plywood mount to absorb vibration. This has been working for last flying season and this season so far. Do you think this is sufficient?
There is a thick film of RTV silicone rubber on the bottom of the ignition box and the plywood mount to absorb vibration. This has been working for last flying season and this season so far. Do you think this is sufficient?
08-14-2009 | 08:15 AM
#5269
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From: Gales Ferry, CT
RE: DL-50 engine
Ultracopper is what I use. It's the same consistancy as the other products rated a 500-550 degrees. Wipe on a thin film, bolt it up slighty snug, leave overnight and tighten it down the next day. Done.
ORIGINAL: Tired Old Man
It requires very little sealant to make an effective seal. I don't use the heavy silicone gasket compounds, only Permatex Ultracopper, so I can't speak for how well they do or don't work. The Ultracopper is used on literally many hundreds of engines without using a gasket, and has been for years. In every application it is applied as an extremely thin film, with every effort to eliminate any chance of oozing into the path of exhaust gasses. Any lip or ridge created inside the port reduces exhaust efficiency, and performance. For some, any reduction in performance can be a critical issue.
There's no need now, nor has there ever been, a reason to apply a thick bead of sealant. 1/64'' is actually quite thick for the intended purpose of the material. Those that have had issues with screws backing out of the muffler may have failed to use a thread lock compound, used the wrong kind of thread lock compound, failed to install a support bracket on the muffler, or used screws of incorrect size. Not using a fiber gasket has not been the cause of loosening screws. The opposite is generally true. By eliminating the gasket the muffler generally remains attached much longer, especially when a support bracket is also used on the muffler.
It requires very little sealant to make an effective seal. I don't use the heavy silicone gasket compounds, only Permatex Ultracopper, so I can't speak for how well they do or don't work. The Ultracopper is used on literally many hundreds of engines without using a gasket, and has been for years. In every application it is applied as an extremely thin film, with every effort to eliminate any chance of oozing into the path of exhaust gasses. Any lip or ridge created inside the port reduces exhaust efficiency, and performance. For some, any reduction in performance can be a critical issue.
There's no need now, nor has there ever been, a reason to apply a thick bead of sealant. 1/64'' is actually quite thick for the intended purpose of the material. Those that have had issues with screws backing out of the muffler may have failed to use a thread lock compound, used the wrong kind of thread lock compound, failed to install a support bracket on the muffler, or used screws of incorrect size. Not using a fiber gasket has not been the cause of loosening screws. The opposite is generally true. By eliminating the gasket the muffler generally remains attached much longer, especially when a support bracket is also used on the muffler.
08-14-2009 | 08:19 AM
#5270
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From: Gales Ferry, CT
RE: DL-50 engine
I still use Latex rubber padding left over from the discrete components in electronics days.
Krproton,
Which spinner do you have on your plane? What rpm are you getting with that prop?
Krproton,
Which spinner do you have on your plane? What rpm are you getting with that prop?
ORIGINAL: krproton
Thanks thevirginian.
There is a thick film of RTV silicone rubber on the bottom of the ignition box and the plywood mount to absorb vibration. This has been working for last flying season and this season so far. Do you think this is sufficient?
Thanks thevirginian.
There is a thick film of RTV silicone rubber on the bottom of the ignition box and the plywood mount to absorb vibration. This has been working for last flying season and this season so far. Do you think this is sufficient?
08-14-2009 | 10:18 AM
#5272
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From: Pullman,
WA
RE: DL-50 engine
Here are some pix of the muffler install. The first shows the muffler before I pulled it off to check the exhaust port. the second shows the two mating surfaces. It looks to me like the film of sealant is so thin as to be almost transparent, except where it oozed out to make the "bead". I have used the Permatex Ultracopper but did not see much difference in the consisitency or result. I have gotten a lot out of this discussion, especially the idea of using so little of the sealant. Much less than I would have used before. I'm going to redo the muffler again, and use less sealant (Permatex Copper this time). Thanks to all.
Sam
Sam
08-14-2009 | 11:07 AM
#5274
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From: Gales Ferry, CT
RE: DL-50 engine
Joeairport,
I use the same latex foam as you since I started in r/c when receivers were hand stuffed and soldered. Back in the day we would make a foam boxes glued together with contact cement and slip the receiver and battery into them. Lots of chances for crashes due to radio failure back then, we did everything we could to prevent it. Now everybody just tucks the foam under the parts.
I use the same latex foam as you since I started in r/c when receivers were hand stuffed and soldered. Back in the day we would make a foam boxes glued together with contact cement and slip the receiver and battery into them. Lots of chances for crashes due to radio failure back then, we did everything we could to prevent it. Now everybody just tucks the foam under the parts.
08-14-2009 | 11:20 AM
#5275
RE: DL-50 engine
ORIGINAL: PlaneKrazee
I still use Latex rubber padding left over from the discrete components in electronics days.
Krproton,
Which spinner do you have on your plane? What rpm are you getting with that prop?
I still use Latex rubber padding left over from the discrete components in electronics days.
Krproton,
Which spinner do you have on your plane? What rpm are you getting with that prop?
ORIGINAL: krproton
Thanks thevirginian.
There is a thick film of RTV silicone rubber on the bottom of the ignition box and the plywood mount to absorb vibration. This has been working for last flying season and this season so far. Do you think this is sufficient?
Thanks thevirginian.
There is a thick film of RTV silicone rubber on the bottom of the ignition box and the plywood mount to absorb vibration. This has been working for last flying season and this season so far. Do you think this is sufficient?
+1 on the Ultracopper RTV for me (I think it's even in the background of one of my previous photos!). I always "polish" the mating parts of the muffler and engine port with oil and 400-grit, then thoroughly clean with denatured alcohol. Just a fine film of RTV on both parts, then bolt it together.
