DL-50 engine
#5276

ORIGINAL: krproton
Thanks thevirginian.
There is a thick film of RTV silicone rubber on the bottom of the ignition box and the plywood mount to absorb vibration. This has been working for last flying season and this season so far. Do you think this is sufficient?
Thanks thevirginian.
There is a thick film of RTV silicone rubber on the bottom of the ignition box and the plywood mount to absorb vibration. This has been working for last flying season and this season so far. Do you think this is sufficient?
#5277
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From: Mason,
MI
Hi guys, I love my DL50 and have just made it thru the 3 gallon break in at 32:1 gas/oil mix. I am new to gas so I'm not sure what brand synthetic oil to use now and what ratio in the mix. I live in Michigan so the temps are milder so I imagine I can go with a lower oil mix. Any suggestions on what oil to use and what mix would work best for my situation? Thanks for the help! John
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From: Kalona,
IA
What are you using now for breakin John? If it is a good oil, just move to 40:1 and be done with it....or, simply stay where you are at 32:1. You won't be getting any significant favors by switching, unless you started with something questionable in the first place.
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From: Gales Ferry, CT
Use whatever oil you want. There doesn't seem to be any best oil. I use Mobil 2T, seems like Husquvarna Chain saw oil would be good to. Echo chainsaws are what the BME and Brinnelli motors were built from and those engines ran fine as chain saws on Chainsaw oil. Those engines are run full load, bogged down with poor cooling etc, and last for years. Mix the oil at the ratio recommended by the oil company and choose an oil that recommends a ratio close to what your engine manufacturer recommends, somewhere between 32:1 and 50:1 and tune the engine to within 100 rpm of peak on the rich side. Disassemble every 100 hours or once a year and see how things look.
ORIGINAL: JCFLYR
Hi guys, I love my DL50 and have just made it thru the 3 gallon break in at 32:1 gas/oil mix. I am new to gas so I'm not sure what brand synthetic oil to use now and what ratio in the mix. I live in Michigan so the temps are milder so I imagine I can go with a lower oil mix. Any suggestions on what oil to use and what mix would work best for my situation? Thanks for the help! John
Hi guys, I love my DL50 and have just made it thru the 3 gallon break in at 32:1 gas/oil mix. I am new to gas so I'm not sure what brand synthetic oil to use now and what ratio in the mix. I live in Michigan so the temps are milder so I imagine I can go with a lower oil mix. Any suggestions on what oil to use and what mix would work best for my situation? Thanks for the help! John
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From: Mason,
MI
Thanks Chad, I'm using the Lawnbow ashless which was recommended by a friend. It seems to work great for the break-in but it's not synthetic. I have heard guys using Amasol but I don't know which kind and some of the guys also using the Penzoil synthetic. I will probably use the Klotz next flying season, I would just like to get something that will get me thru the rest of this season that is a good oil. I do not want to compromise my engine by using a cheap oil just to get in some flying. Thanks for the help! John
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From: Kalona,
IA
DO switch from the Ashless you are running. But also DO follow what PlaneKrazee says regarding the mixture between 32:1-50:1 (32-40:1 for regular oils, 40-50:1 for synthetics). I personally use Pennzoil at 32:1 in everything. It is readily available to me, inexpensive, I buy it by the case. My synthetic choice would be Stihl Ultra from the local small engine shop, but unless the Pennzoil is suddenly unavailable or inconvenient for me to get, I won't be moving to it. I'd just encourage you to avoid the temptation of going to a popular oil that is mixed thinner than 50:1...though there are many followers. Save your money, and use something else...in the long run your engine will appreciate it.
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From: Mason,
MI
Thanks a lot guys, that really helps. Chad, is the Pennzoil you use a full synthetic? I would like to be able to go the AutoZone and pick it up anytime I need it. The DL50 recommends full synthetic from here on out so I want to make sure I use it. Thanks again guys, John
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From: Kalona,
IA
Advance Auto Parts is who happened to have it on the shelf in my area, though they only maintained 6 or so on hand when I first found it. Now when they order, they order a case for themselves and a case for me, it works out well. Why not pick a supplier you WANT to be doing convenient business with, and picking one of the products they stock?
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From: Kalona,
IA
Here is another current thread pertaining to a couple of oils...for you to soak up some more information
If you do a search, you will find all the information you ever want to choke on and have bad dreams about in here regarding oil choice and ratio. Its been gone over and over and over....
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_90...tm.htm#9016478
If you do a search, you will find all the information you ever want to choke on and have bad dreams about in here regarding oil choice and ratio. Its been gone over and over and over....http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_90...tm.htm#9016478
#5287

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From: Gales Ferry, CT
Just changed back to a Mejzlik 22X8. Got 7300 peaked, detuned down to 7200 for flying. The beech Xoar 23X8 was turning 6400 peaked. Tomorrow's weather is supposed to be great.
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From: Maryville,
TN
ORIGINAL: JCFLYR
So there is no problem using non-synthetic oil with the DL50? My instructions say to use a full synthetic. Thanks, JC
So there is no problem using non-synthetic oil with the DL50? My instructions say to use a full synthetic. Thanks, JC
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From: ft lupton,
CO
I've got a DL 100 with over 30 gallons and nothing but Pennzoil through it. If I ever need to switch to a synthetic it would be Sthil Ultra and have also heard good things about Redline, both at 50/1.
#5292

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From: Gales Ferry, CT
ORIGINAL: bipecraz
I've been runnin Stihl in my D.A. 100 for three & half years & have had nothing but great service out of it
I've been runnin Stihl in my D.A. 100 for three & half years & have had nothing but great service out of it
One thing people don't take into account is how the oil reacts with the gas over time. I have a Husquavarna brush cutter with last years gas/Husky oil mix in it and it started right up and ran fine whereas if you use some of the fancy full synthetic oils the gas seems to go "bad" faster. Some guys won't use fuel in their models if it's over a month old.
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From: Pretoria, SOUTH AFRICA
Iuse 1400 Nicad for ignition 4,8v. 3 flights will use 300 mamp.i now have a dl50 an dle55.Both work very well with any 22x8 prop,More than enough power for any 1/4 scale plane.I live at altitude.what do you find is the best needle stting,especially the low end
#5294
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From: Idaho Falls,
ID
Just started my new DLE55 for the first time today. It started very easy and settled down to a nice smooth idle at about 1800 RPM. I let it idle there for several minutes then started reving it up a bit. Everthing is fine until I hit almost exactly 5100 RPM and then it will just quit. I did this 20 or so times and it quits every time. I tried opening the main jet from 1-3/4 to 2-1/2 turns open and it didn't change a thing except at 2-1/2 turns the bottom end a bit crappy. I also turned it in to 1-1/4 turns with no difference. I'm using a 4.8v NiMH battery that is new and freshly charged. After I did the run I tested the voltage at 5.4volts.
Started very easy every time but will not accelerate past 5100 RPM. The only think I've done that isn't stock is but a nipple on the carb plate and route a tube outside the fuse. I've have other gas engines that will richen right after take off if you don't have this tube. I've been putting it on all my engines for some time and did it on the DL. I can't see why that would make a difference...but maybe. Also changed the stock spark plug from "no name" to CM-6. Those are the only changes I've made.
I'm running a rear exit canister muffler if that is of any concern.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Barry
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From: Ormond Beach, FL
Can you borrow somebody's ignition and plug it in to eliminate that component? Somewhere I think it was the MVVS man who noted that the auto advance in the ignitions ends somewhere around 4-5k.
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From: Idaho Falls,
ID
That's a good idea. I have a DA50 ignition I could try. I wonder if it would be compatable?The more I think about it, it seems it should work. I think the ignitions are pretty much the same and are not brand specific....but I'm not certain.
I appreciate the help. I'll try that tomorrow.
thanks
BArry
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From: Gales Ferry, CT
Barry,
Try closing off the high speed needle all the way and see what peak rpm you get. When my engine came thru with a plugged high speed jet it would run great up to 4000 rpm sag and quit. With a different carb it might be able to run as fast as yours.
If you get the same peak rpm you will know for a fact it is the carb, otherwise it would lean to toward the ignition.
Brian
Try closing off the high speed needle all the way and see what peak rpm you get. When my engine came thru with a plugged high speed jet it would run great up to 4000 rpm sag and quit. With a different carb it might be able to run as fast as yours.
If you get the same peak rpm you will know for a fact it is the carb, otherwise it would lean to toward the ignition.
Brian
ORIGINAL: Barry Cazier
Just started my new DLE55 for the first time today. It started very easy and settled down to a nice smooth idle at about 1800 RPM. I let it idle there for several minutes then started reving it up a bit. Everthing is fine until I hit almost exactly 5100 RPM and then it will just quit. I did this 20 or so times and it quits every time. I tried opening the main jet from 1-3/4 to 2-1/2 turns open and it didn't change a thing except at 2-1/2 turns the bottom end a bit crappy. I also turned it in to 1-1/4 turns with no difference.
I'm using a 4.8v NiMH battery that is new and freshly charged. After I did the run I tested the voltage at 5.4volts.
Started very easy every time but will not accelerate past 5100 RPM. The only think I've done that isn't stock is but a nipple on the carb plate and route a tube outside the fuse. I've have other gas engines that will richen right after take off if you don't have this tube. I've been putting it on all my engines for some time and did it on the DL. I can't see why that would make a difference...but maybe. Also changed the stock spark plug from ''no name'' to CM-6. Those are the only changes I've made.
I'm running a rear exit canister muffler if that is of any concern.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Barry
Just started my new DLE55 for the first time today. It started very easy and settled down to a nice smooth idle at about 1800 RPM. I let it idle there for several minutes then started reving it up a bit. Everthing is fine until I hit almost exactly 5100 RPM and then it will just quit. I did this 20 or so times and it quits every time. I tried opening the main jet from 1-3/4 to 2-1/2 turns open and it didn't change a thing except at 2-1/2 turns the bottom end a bit crappy. I also turned it in to 1-1/4 turns with no difference. I'm using a 4.8v NiMH battery that is new and freshly charged. After I did the run I tested the voltage at 5.4volts.
Started very easy every time but will not accelerate past 5100 RPM. The only think I've done that isn't stock is but a nipple on the carb plate and route a tube outside the fuse. I've have other gas engines that will richen right after take off if you don't have this tube. I've been putting it on all my engines for some time and did it on the DL. I can't see why that would make a difference...but maybe. Also changed the stock spark plug from ''no name'' to CM-6. Those are the only changes I've made.
I'm running a rear exit canister muffler if that is of any concern.
Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Barry
#5299
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If it runs smoothly up to 5100 rpm and quits it's not the ignition. Pull the carb and clean out all the jets and passages. Similar has happened to me with a couple of different engines. Doesn't matter who made the carb, manufacturing debris can get into anything.


