DL-50 engine
10-16-2009 | 10:08 AM
#5851
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From: Gales Ferry, CT
RE: DL-50 engine
That velocity stack sure looks like the one from Horizon Hobby for the Zenoah 20 or 26. I don't think the bolts were long enough on my engine to go thru the stack mount. Can't remember. CRS is kicking in hard.
10-16-2009 | 12:03 PM
#5853
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From: Gales Ferry, CT
RE: DL-50 engine
ORIGINAL: hillbillyexpress
where do i get the velocity stack from ? what is it supposed to do? if i put that on, does it need to clear the firewall by 1''?
where do i get the velocity stack from ? what is it supposed to do? if i put that on, does it need to clear the firewall by 1''?
Help improve performance and fuel economy
Cut a hole in the firewall
10-16-2009 | 12:09 PM
#5854
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From: Farmington Hills,
MI
RE: DL-50 engine
ORIGINAL: hillbillyexpress
where do i get the velocity stack from ? what is it supposed to do? if i put that on, does it need to clear the firewall by 1"?
where do i get the velocity stack from ? what is it supposed to do? if i put that on, does it need to clear the firewall by 1"?
Due to my motor box being so wet all the time I will probably be giving Jodi a call next week to order one.Joe Airport's answer:
Jody has them at ValleyviewRC.com. He can tell you how to mount it. It uses the same two bolts that hold on the carb and reed block. Mine kept changing mixture in knife edge and inverted. I put one on 50 and 55. Works great. The fuel getting all over the engine box was not the reason I installed my first one. Although having it go bone dry once the stack was on there was a great side benefit.
10-16-2009 | 12:25 PM
#5855
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RE: DL-50 engine
The stock bolts work but are a tiny bit short IMO. Be careful though, if you cut new ones and they are too long they hit the crank counter balance which is right where the bolt ends. Don't worry though, you'll know right away because the engine will be totally locked up. You only need a couple more mm than stock the bolts. The stack is about 5mm thick plus maybe a mm for a lock washer but the stack and washer will compress a mm or two. Use a little lock tite and the stock ones will be fine.
If your only issue is fuel/oil getting all over the inside of the engine box you can put a balsa sheet over the inside of your firewall with thin CA. It's super easy to do. Look at this picture and you can see where I had the balsa sheet. All you have to do is hold it in position with your left hand and start to apply thin CA with a dropper with your right hand (through the hole in the firewall) where it comes in contact with the inside firewall. Just make sure you have enough room behind the air inlet of the carb to keep good air flow. With the balsa sheet on the inside firewall it gives you some extra space.
If your only issue is fuel/oil getting all over the inside of the engine box you can put a balsa sheet over the inside of your firewall with thin CA. It's super easy to do. Look at this picture and you can see where I had the balsa sheet. All you have to do is hold it in position with your left hand and start to apply thin CA with a dropper with your right hand (through the hole in the firewall) where it comes in contact with the inside firewall. Just make sure you have enough room behind the air inlet of the carb to keep good air flow. With the balsa sheet on the inside firewall it gives you some extra space.
10-16-2009 | 01:07 PM
#5856
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From: Miami beach, FL
RE: DL-50 engine
So what you're saying is that the bolts need to be 5x65mm? Where did you get the longer bolts from? I recently ordered some stuff from RTL fasteners which has been shipped already so can't add to the order.
I need to place an order at Valley View so will include 2 stacks.
I need to place an order at Valley View so will include 2 stacks.
10-16-2009 | 05:01 PM
#5859
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RE: DL-50 engine
ORIGINAL: mstam1971
So what you're saying is that the bolts need to be 5x65mm? Where did you get the longer bolts from? I recently ordered some stuff from RTL fasteners which has been shipped already so can't add to the order.
I need to place an order at Valley View so will include 2 stacks.
So what you're saying is that the bolts need to be 5x65mm? Where did you get the longer bolts from? I recently ordered some stuff from RTL fasteners which has been shipped already so can't add to the order.
I need to place an order at Valley View so will include 2 stacks.
I got mine from Fastenal.
These would work:
http://www.fastenal.com/web/products...0135910&ucst=t
10-16-2009 | 05:16 PM
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From: MannumSouth Australia, AUSTRALIA
RE: DL-50 engine
Regarding VELOCITY STACKS.
Thanks for the great answers guys - very informative.
I'm SOLD! I is goin to get me one of those sucker stacks ASAP
Thanks for the great answers guys - very informative.
I'm SOLD! I is goin to get me one of those sucker stacks ASAP
10-16-2009 | 08:58 PM
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From: MannumSouth Australia, AUSTRALIA
RE: DL-50 engine
Hi guys, now that the Velocity Stack question has been answered, here is my next one.
We all agree that some form of kill switch is a must have and the Opto Kill is probably as good as you can get.
Now, what about a POWER DISTRIBUTION SYSTEM / Blue Box / which sends an amplified but measured signal to all survos? I do not use one with my DL50 planes. I simply go off the receiver like i do in Glo 40 size planes. I have had no problems yet but I sure would like to know if I am taking a gamble. My ignition system and my RX system are independant with seperate batteries for each. What are your thoughts on POWER DISTRIBUTION SYSTEMS???
We all agree that some form of kill switch is a must have and the Opto Kill is probably as good as you can get.
Now, what about a POWER DISTRIBUTION SYSTEM / Blue Box / which sends an amplified but measured signal to all survos? I do not use one with my DL50 planes. I simply go off the receiver like i do in Glo 40 size planes. I have had no problems yet but I sure would like to know if I am taking a gamble. My ignition system and my RX system are independant with seperate batteries for each. What are your thoughts on POWER DISTRIBUTION SYSTEMS???
10-16-2009 | 09:14 PM
#5864
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From: Miami beach, FL
RE: DL-50 engine
ORIGINAL: The Big Kahuna
Hi guys, now that the Velocity Stack question has been answered, here is my next one.
We all agree that some form of kill switch is a must have and the Opto Kill is probably as good as you can get.
Now, what about a POWER DISTRIBUTION SYSTEM / Blue Box / which sends an amplified but measured signal to all survos? I do not use one with my DL50 planes. I simply go off the receiver like i do in Glo 40 size planes. I have had no problems yet but I sure would like to know if I am taking a gamble. My ignition system and my RX system are independant with seperate batteries for each. What are your thoughts on POWER DISTRIBUTION SYSTEMS???
Hi guys, now that the Velocity Stack question has been answered, here is my next one.
We all agree that some form of kill switch is a must have and the Opto Kill is probably as good as you can get.
Now, what about a POWER DISTRIBUTION SYSTEM / Blue Box / which sends an amplified but measured signal to all survos? I do not use one with my DL50 planes. I simply go off the receiver like i do in Glo 40 size planes. I have had no problems yet but I sure would like to know if I am taking a gamble. My ignition system and my RX system are independant with seperate batteries for each. What are your thoughts on POWER DISTRIBUTION SYSTEMS???
Always look for the SPOF, Single Point of Failure. You can have a fancy distribution system, but since it's just one system, the chances are that you get in trouble sooner than just using a decent battery and mechanical switch setup.
The images show the setup I'm using for my 30% EF Extra. One 2-cell 2300mah A123, good for 5 15 minute flights. I used the Ultra Switch II from Electrodynamics and I can balance charge through the receptacle. ED now sells batteries and switches that match, the ED-nano series. Nice company to deal with and their ignition cut-off is great too.
If you want more than 5 flights, consider 2 A123 batteries and the Fromeco Wolverine switch with 2x 16AWG in and one 16AWG out. Solder a Deans to 2 servo wires that go into the receiver, good for 8 A continues w/o voltage drop, much more peak.
Only for 35% and up you need a distribution system. Most receivers can deal with peaks of 30 A.
10-16-2009 | 09:16 PM
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From: mojave desert,
CA
RE: DL-50 engine
ORIGINAL: The Big Kahuna its only my opinion,,,but i run my junk like you do, yes the p d s ,will clean up signals and do other neat things like expandability and backup battery,but from my reading they usually recommend for 33 pct and up, its good to have but ,,,only my opinion ,and off the dl subject,, but ifeel its unnecessary,i ran straight to yhe reciever on a 35 pct extra and flew it 3 years ,until the plane broke up in flight,so im sure someone will have a differing perspective than mine ,and we both might learn something
Hi guys, now that the Velocity Stack question has been answered, here is my next one.
We all agree that some form of kill switch is a must have and the Opto Kill is probably as good as you can get.
Now, what about a POWER DISTRIBUTION SYSTEM / Blue Box / which sends an amplified but measured signal to all survos? I do not use one with my DL50 planes. I simply go off the receiver like i do in Glo 40 size planes. I have had no problems yet but I sure would like to know if I am taking a gamble. My ignition system and my RX system are independant with seperate batteries for each. What are your thoughts on POWER DISTRIBUTION SYSTEMS???
Hi guys, now that the Velocity Stack question has been answered, here is my next one.
We all agree that some form of kill switch is a must have and the Opto Kill is probably as good as you can get.
Now, what about a POWER DISTRIBUTION SYSTEM / Blue Box / which sends an amplified but measured signal to all survos? I do not use one with my DL50 planes. I simply go off the receiver like i do in Glo 40 size planes. I have had no problems yet but I sure would like to know if I am taking a gamble. My ignition system and my RX system are independant with seperate batteries for each. What are your thoughts on POWER DISTRIBUTION SYSTEMS???
10-16-2009 | 10:00 PM
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From: ft lupton,
CO
RE: DL-50 engine
I agree with mstam1971. The A123's are hard to beat! Lots of amperage and you can charge them in 15 minutes. If the power box isn't in the plane, it can't fail.
10-16-2009 | 10:13 PM
#5868
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From: Miami beach, FL
RE: DL-50 engine
ORIGINAL: flatspinjim
I agree with mstam1971. The A123's are hard to beat! Lots of amperage and you can charge them in 15 minutes. If the power box isn't in the plane, it can't fail.
I agree with mstam1971. The A123's are hard to beat! Lots of amperage and you can charge them in 15 minutes. If the power box isn't in the plane, it can't fail.
With my next project, the EF Edge 540T, I'm going for the Wolverine switch with 2 A123 batteries. Both with 18AWG wire to the switch and a short 16AWG wire and one 22AWG wire for balance with a 3-pole mini Deans. The mini Deans is good for 10A so I can charge both batteries in less than 15 minutes. One 2-cell 1100mah A123 on the ignition is good for 9 15 minute flights, so combined with the 2 2300mah batteries, I can get 9 15 minute flights and have enough spare.
10-16-2009 | 11:12 PM
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From: ft lupton,
CO
RE: DL-50 engine
On my 35%ers I run two 2300s. Two smart-fly super switches with Deans on the battery side and 2 leads coming out of the switch going to the reciever. I average 150mah per flight per battery. I can easily get 6 flights, which after that many flights my eyes are more run down than the batteries. 
10-17-2009 | 01:16 AM
#5870
RE: DL-50 engine
That's almost exactly how I set up my 35% planes, 2-2100 mh 2 cell Lipos w/deans plugs into 2 MPI miracle switch/regulators, into battery share/isolator device, into 1 receiver. No match boxes, equalizers, or power expanders. I use Hitec servos, all servos are programmed with their programmer, servos in multi servo control surfaces are Y-harnessed together and I make the Y-harnesses. The fewer solid state electrical devices the better.
10-20-2009 | 03:01 AM
#5871
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From: Miami beach, FL
RE: DL-50 engine
Way past bedtime but it's back in one piece so the crankcase sealer can dry overnight. Hopefully not too windy tomorrow.
The rear bearing and the prop hub were the toughest to put together.
Special thanks to Jody for shipping the parts out so fast.
Gee this site is strange from time to time, images didn't resize.
The rear bearing and the prop hub were the toughest to put together.
Special thanks to Jody for shipping the parts out so fast.
Gee this site is strange from time to time, images didn't resize.
10-20-2009 | 10:19 AM
#5873
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From: Miami beach, FL
RE: DL-50 engine
ORIGINAL: JoeAirPort
Should be good as new. Did you end up putting a velocity stack on? I can't see in the pic.
Should be good as new. Did you end up putting a velocity stack on? I can't see in the pic.
The engine ran/runs superb without, it's just to tweak it even a little more. All the fuel on the engine box is because the engine has been leaking a bit through the crankcase halves for all those months. I used Loctite 620 this time as sealant, hope it'll hold. Permatex Ultra Copper works great too.
10-20-2009 | 06:56 PM
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From: Red Wing,
MN
RE: DL-50 engine
10-20-2009 | 07:40 PM
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From: Ormond Beach, FL
RE: DL-50 engine
ORIGINAL: paul5992
Here is my next test bed for my old DL-50.
http://www.airshowrc.com/edge_540_t.html
Here is my next test bed for my old DL-50.
http://www.airshowrc.com/edge_540_t.html
Whadda ya trying to do Paul, give your DL a hernia.....19 pound flying weight.....is that like the ones that say 16 and come in at 18 so 19 becomes what?
