richen that baby up a deadstick means it went lean and ran out of gas. Re-turn that high for max rpm (start this over) and then richen that low up and fly it. if it burgles alot while flying start leaning that low end out in small moves about the size of a screwdriver blade at a time. any time u turn the low in about 2-4 blades recheck the high as it may need a slight richen after 2-4 blades of leaning the low.

Yes, my mistake. I meant the low speed needle.

If you're having to flip 10 choke flips to start, the low end is absolutely lean. And that can cause all the problems you describe, including the death while running.

Sometimes, I've leaned the low end too far, and your symptoms was how I found out.... hang in there!

I just checked how many turns out the LS was. Suprisingly, it was 2.5 turns out and the manuel says 1.5 is the average. HMMMMMM. I am going to reset all the needls to factory settings and retune.

Check your inlet screen on the pump diaphragm side of the carb. Betcha you got some stuff in there.

Here is some more data on The DL-50 http://www.dlusa.net/News.html It may have been posted before....but this will help if some person is looking for that wsb site. Regards Capt,n

How exactly do i get to that part Bob

Thanks

This might of been asked before..........But I need to flip my carb on my DL so the throttle arm is on the other side for my EF Yak. Is it possible to without any ill affects? If so, should I just turn the carb or the carb and black block thats in between the carb and cylinder? Thanks

Hi Sewerdude,Rotating the carb and block 180 degrees keeps the pump vacuum pulse line at the same length and puts your linkage where you need it.With no ill effect.

You do not need to rotate the reed block, just the carb unless I'm missing something. Mabe Bob Pastorello could chime in and tell you for sure.

If you rotate just the carb and not the reed and insulator block you will need a longer length of tube to make the distance between nipples without kinking the pulse line and more risk of splitting gaskets.Not a problem if you have spares.Chances are if careful,you will be able to separate carb/reed and insulator block as one from case without splitting gaskets and maybe even save the gasket from insulator block to case without damage.looks neater if kept with pulse line as is anyway.You could turn the pulse nipple on carb for a straight run if turning carb only,still requires a longer pulse line though and adds up to more work/time.

In the drawing, I've drawn a redline to the screen. Remove the four screws on the diaphragm cover, GENTLY remove the diaphragm, and you will see the screen. It's very obvious once you get in there.
The pics are of my non-DL engine, but nearly exactly the same carb, just mounted differently. Hope these help!

P.S. - the pic is a generic Walbro, and contains other troubleshooting hints - might be worth keeping. The pump cover, screws, diaphragm pump, etc. are the same for our carbs.

Thanks for the pics Bob. That helps alot. I will post back with results.

Thanks Craig 01 and Craigteffe . I 'll try to move the whole thing I think. Carb, block, etc. Hopefully the gaskets will stay in tack. Thanks

Okay, i got the cowl off and was able to get at the carb. When i took the plate of i found that the gold "screen" that bob is pointing out in the pics is about 75% black. The left side off it is so dark i can't see the gold color but the right side of it is clear enough that i can see the gold. It looks like some oily crud got on it. I can't however figure out how to clean it. If there is a screen there it must have the finest little wholes as it really doesn't look like a sreen to me. It feels hard and smooth, almost as if there was a drop of epoxy in there.

Any help would be apreciated.

Look with a magnifier and very bright light. That screen *is* very fine, and is probably causing the bad needle settings, and is effectively stopping fuel flow to the main metering needle adjacent to it. If you have acetone, try a cotton swab... repeated applications.... whatever is in there probably was stopped by the screen (good thing) and now needs to be removed (not so good thing).

If you absolutely cannot remove the crud, go to your local saw shop, get a carb rebuild kit of nearly any flavor. It will have the screen in it. Remove the old with a very sharp, pointed scribe being VERY careful to not push further down, and not damage any surfaces. Press in the new screen with a short piece of 3/16" wood dowel, clean, you're probably good to go.

If you do all that, and it still will not needle properly, new carb time. Trust me on that.

You are using at least "dual-filtering" (gas jug) and tank klunk, right?

Oh... one other thing.... can you do a pic to post?

Yes, i do use 2 filters on my pump. I also noticed that when i opened this part of the carb up it was full of fuel. Is this normal. I will see what i can do.

Yep, it would have fuel because it is the primary fuel inlet metering mechanics.

Bob, is the crud going to be caught on the gold side or to the outside (meaning the part i have access to) of the filter. In other words, does the filter need to be removed to be cleaned.

Nice shot of carb and big toe!!! Where is the rest of the parts? There could be a little piece of crud on the tip of the metering valve. Do not loose that little spring and be carefull not to bend the arm that works the inlet valve. Good Luck Capt,n ADDED PHOTO This may or may not help.

captainjohn - He has not disassembled the metering needle. The pic is of the "in" side of the screen. The metering parts are untouched.

Cambo - the screen is intended to capture stuff to stop it from penetrating into the carb passages.
If you can get 'er clean, you're golden.

DO NOT remove those parts I circled in red in the photos....unless you have been there, done that.

I ment to say the valve that meters(controls) the fuel. I thought I seen it in photo...maybe not. The photo I posted may not be like the carb he has. But it is a good thing to know anyway. Best regards Capt,n P.S. I think if you get a carb kit like Bob says...he has some good advice there.

Bob the screen that you are refering to is it not on the pump side of the carb it looks like he has taken off the diaphram side. The inlet screen is on the other side right?

Normally what i do to clean the screen is to take a Q-tip and put vaslene on it and then i will swab the screen and that usually does the trick, if not its fairly easy to remove the screen and clean.

craigteffe - there are two screens (at least) that I know of. The "inlet" screen *is* on the OTHER side of the carb, and you are most certainly correct. That one would be the FIRST one to 'gunk up'.

The one that I pictured and described is the "metering" screen, and it's the "other" screen that can get crud.

cambo - after you have finished on the diaphragm side, I'd follow craigteffe's advice and do the same thing on the INLET screen.

My bad for not pointing you there first; perhaps I should have done that.

Thanks, craigteffe for pointing out the misdirection. Hope there's no harm, there.

[Edit - added pic of inlet screen from Walbro manual. This is on opposite side from diaphragm/metering screen, as craigteffe pointed out. On our carbs, a single screw through the center with a large slotted/phillips head holds the pump cover in place. The pic shows a carb with a 4 screw setup]