please stop shouting, thanks....

Good info - and points out something that can happen easily. Folks sometimes *remove* the spring that is mounted on the throttle shaft. Doing so permits the shaft with the butterfly to start moving side to side as it rotates open to closed. In very short order, that sideways play will wear the butterfly plate, and then there are all sorts of problems that crop up.

I've always suggested that folks not remove the spring, but just trim off the hook end that is grabbing the throttle stop plate.
If the spring is missing, I'd suggest removing the throttle arm, then getting a suitable compression type spring to mount between the throttle arm and the carb body. That will at least keep some tension on the butterfly.

sorry dude i am new to this .and a little exicited .the little brown truck is coming agian.good tip on the throttle shaft . i did have a cut down spring.but never thought to put side tension on it.thanks

No sweat.... the side tension should prevent slop from starting. If there is already slop/side play on the butterfly, you probably need a new plate, which gets into a whole host of other concerns and potential problems.

You will love the engine.

man thiese sites are to cool you offer your too cents.and walk away with a buck.wish all life was like that

I got another question. When tuning the HSN you do it with running engine? Or stop it, retune, restart and tach? I measured my dl with 22x8 biela and it was only about 6700-6800 rpm. I read some forum users suggest to peak the rpm and then richen about 200 rpm. In that case i wouldnt get enough power for my 8 kg with fuel Yak.

i tune mine with the engine running. I first tune the high speed needle for top rpm and back off about 1/16 then i tune the low speed needle untill i get a hesitation then richen it up just untill the hesitation goes away.

You may want to try a different prop.
I like to use vess props or NX or Xoar.

i find i get the best tune quicker with engine running.can be done either way.you must feel very comfortable around moving parts and have experinced help to do it running .200rpm ritch seems about right diffrent for all planes .fly & check temp you may get more if temp allows .

Biela's are known for HUGE loading of an engine, yet produce pretty good thrust. I've since moved on to other props, but used to run Biela's. I thought they were always a little slow to come up (probably due to the loading), and found I preferred the NX and Xoar.

I still have Vess' that are untried, but will do that soon. My DL 50's just really perform excellently with the Xoar and NX props. I do not like to try to adjust running gassers. My preference is to shut down, tweak, then restart.

Doing it that way makes me KNOW how the low end needle is set, because if restarts are hard, it ain't right yet....

Ill try some other props. But in Poland where i live here are no vess, xorar etc :/ I can only get wooden Pelikan (i have one 22x10), Bambula, Biela and extremely expensive Mejzlik. But as i see most users prefere wooden props?

_(PAWEL)if that engine is anything like mine. you will need more than 8 kilo to stop it.regardless of the prop.my frend is flying a 22# lanier giles for a joke .it was no killer at that weight but 20 years ago i would of killed for this setup and that was with a zinger 22x10.i still dont know what he was thinking.but it shure flew nice

I think the Vess puts out the most thrust per RPM than the others, Here is a couple videos, The first is a Mejzlik 22-10 and the secound video is with a Vess 22-A and 23-A prop
Both props are turning around 7050 RPM and the vess put out about 3 lbs more thrust, Same engine same plane

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oKCfkTZ259E

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u7hn80t3UQ8

Does anyone know where to buy a Vess prop in Europe???? And what prop will give me the best thrust: 22x8, 22x10, 23x8 or maybe some other size?

Here is the VESS site and it say's that DA is a supplier of there props and I think they ship international

http://www.vessaero.com/

The size prop depends on the engine you are using, I think the sweet spot on most 50cc are 7000 to 7100 rpm, We use a 23A after break in on our 51cc engine.

I use DL50 accordning to this thread

From what I have read about the DL you should get 7000 plus rpm with right prop, If you can get it and don't want to buy two props I would try the 22-A

22A is a size used by Vess, as far as i know. But props available in Poland have starndard size numbers, so letter A tells me not much

Look at the Vess site, There prop are not continous pitch so they do not call the by 8 or 10 pitch, But a 22-A is close to a 22-8 pitch.

I found in one polish shop a Top Flite prop 22X6-10 Will it be close to this Vess?

That I don't know, It is just after doing the trust test on my stand it made me a Vess believer,

I have run the TF 22 6-10, not on a DL, though. I found it to be a little "soft" on acceleration, and in verticals, you could tell the blade was untwisting (TF props are somewhat less rigid than many others). Having said that --- for your location and the expense --- I would snatch that TF up and give it a go.... you may be really happy with it, and I absolutely GUARANTEE that it will turn above 7000.

I just ordered two of them, i also have biela 22x8 and Pelikan wooden prop 22x10. Ill select the best. Thanks for help!!!

This Question is for Bob,

I have two electronic egnitions go bad on me and cant figure out how this could happend,
I place the spark plug in the cap and grounded it to the engine case turned the prop and had spark but when in the engine no start, The first one whent bad in November and the second one that was new whent bad last weekend, Power sorce 4.8v 2500 Mh,

engine type DA 50 on a Lenier Edge 540 an excellent flying plane,

I cant think of any thing more frustrating than going out to the field asseble the plane fill up the tank with fuel and cant start the engine [:@] Ahhhhhhhh

Okay.
I'm "Bob".
What's the question?

Well Bob,

Whats the answer? [>:]