I have the Smart Fly kill switch on all my gas engines...................and it works great

That's great! Whatever brand someone chooses, the important thing is the **have** a remote, non-mechanical "kill" in a gasser. I've seen having one save planes and pits/people more than once.

So Bob,

which kill switch do you like?

Please tell.

Thanks!

Tim

Personally the only one I have used is the 42% optical switch. Easy installation and they have been problem free. I haven't used any other brand so I can't give a comparison.

Hey, is your name "Bob?" [sm=wink_smile.gif]

Just kidding Super. Thanks for chiming in. Is "42%" a brand name?

I prefer the 42% because of the length of wire provided for it's connectors, and the very bright red LED included at no extra cost. I mount that on the front edge of the firewall, so I can look from the front and see clearly if the ignition is armed. Price is right, too.

Link - http://www.42-percent-products.com/

Guys, here is a short video of my GP Giant Aeromaster and the DL 50. Pulls it around right smartly, and still a little rich.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CKZRNRZyQWM

Cavandish,

I had a similar problem with my DA-50 not long ago after a deadstick. The engine rpms would go way up and down. Noticed that the throttle servo was moving up and down and the optical kill(smartfly) was blinking on and off. Tried a 42-Percent optokill and it did the same thing. It ended up being the spark plug cap wire was pulled back slightly sending interference to the servo and kill switch. I took the cap apart and pushed the wire back in and all is well again.

Eddie

Amen Bob...a total 'must' have with gassers for safetys sake! I have the smart fly swith on all 5 of my gassers...would never fly without one...period.

Guys, I recently over primed and flooded my DL. When I took the plug out, several ounces (seemed like) ran out. The plug was black with carbon. I think this means it is still too rich, which can be heard on my video, posted above. There have been several posts on this thread about replacement plugs, but it's gotten so long, I can't find the posts about plugs. What do you recommend, and where are they obtained.

thanks.

Greg

Your low end is rich for sure, I can hear it missing in the video at lower RPM's. Maybe your high as well. Time to lean it out.

Greg,
I lifted this from the instructions on the DLUSA site. I just bought one NGK CM-6 last week from Car Quest, although they had to order a box of 8 or 10.
Chuck


"The spark plug that comes with the DL50 engine is an NGK CM-6 or equivalent, gapped at 0.018in. to 0.020in. Torque should be 7 to 8 ft-lbs. Be very careful not to over tighten it or damage to the cylinder threads may result. The plug cap comes with an internal grounding spring and a split retainer ring around its base; they both must be used at all times. The plug cap fits very tightly to the spark plug; you should feel a release of pressure when the cap seats properly to the plug. It will also be difficult to remove the plug cap from the plug; be sure you pull straight out on the cap and not on the plug wire. If the plug is not properly connected to the cap, damage to the module may result."

Mine have been just like yours, Greg, until I leaned 'em down. Including the DL 100. They just need 'em tweaked leaner than we think we ought to go.... I think.
But run like a scalded ape when proper.

Thanks for the info, Chuck, I didn't think to look on the DL site. I thought guys were using different than the specified plug.

Bob P, I will start leaning out a little more. I have leaned the low end about four times, turning in the screw about 1/16 each time. So far it really hasn't changed much.

Set your idle speed to something comfy....slowly lean the low needle, with each adjustment, the idle will begin to rise, using your trim, or travel adjustment, lower it back down to the comfy level. Repeat until adjusting the low end leaner does not result in an increase in idle rpm. At this point switch your routine to checking transition from idle to full, at this setting it will likely sag, hesitate, or even die. From here you will very slightly richen the low needle until the transition is perfect, plus maybe just a tad Then go back and adjust your high end for max RPM minus a hundred or two rpm.....then put some time on it.

Chad

Guys,

you know that approx. 5/8" dia. coil spring that goes inside the spark plug cap (not that split ring that goes around the outside of the cap)? Well, I was eating dinner after working on my plane tonight and here comes my cat playing with something on the floor. Turns out it was that spring! Either I forgot to pop it back in before I put the spark plug cap back on, or my cat is really strong (and smart!).

Anyway, the cap has that silicone insulator thing that, along with the cap itself, REALLY holds onto the spark plug so well. So do you think I need to take the spark plug cap back off and put that spring back in, or am I good without it?

No pressure to give me the correct answer. Just the next time I'll be flying the plane will be Saturday morning round 1 of the St. Charles IMAC contest up near Chicago. [sm=72_72.gif]

Thanks.

Tim

The spring should remain in place at all times.
Keep the cat; obviously it can "hunt".....

He just jumped up in my lap.

Okay Bob,

better go pry off that cap and put the spring back in.

Thanks!

Tim

Tim could have the cat got ahold of your spare spring that came with the engine? Maybe he got up on your bench and opened up the ziploc baggie.

I made up a short peice of dowel I keep in my flight box that I use to pop off the plug cap. I just insert it between the cap and the head to lever off the cap with a quick flick. Works good so far.

Ha, no Super,

it was the spring from the cap - not the spare. I work on my plane in our "four season's" (actually two seasons - spring and fall - usually too hot to work out there in the summer) sunroom. All my "stuff" is upstairs in my "shop" (which is actually a 11 x 11 spare room!).

Yea, I was going to pry the plug cap off with a screwdriver, but thought better of it and pulled it off instead. But that required me to remove the cowl (because the cutout is so close around the cap and wire and I didn't want to mess up the cowl when the cap snapped off the spark plug).

Yea, a dowell. Good idea! I'll use that next time.

ok guys i have been doing some extensive research on the DL50 that i already bought,the engine arived two days ago,i bought it with the intention of using it in a new great planes 1/3 scale pitts special biplane,the plane is alreay done and all im waiting on is just a few ods and ends,well as soon as the engine arived i was so exited,this is my first giant scale plane and my first gas engine,well i dont want to get too much into detail but i am in need of some help,the manula sais to mount not a gas engine but a nitro engine mesuring 6 1/2 inches from the firewall to the prop washer otherwise the cowl will not fit properly,well seems the DL 50 is about 6 3/4 or slightly longer,so what now?the only thing i can think of is to modify the engine box to make it alittlebit shorter since i cant just cut the engine standoffs due to the carb clearance,and to be honest i wouldnt like to do it,has anyone mounted a DL 50 in this particular plane sucsesfully?any tips or ideas would be helpfull and much appreciated

Hi Raf,

I have not seen the firewall of the GP Pitts, so this is just a thought.

If you have less than 1 (one) inch of clearance between the carb inlet and the firewall, you will need to drill a hole in the firewall, so you can get the proper air flow.

My thought is to drill a larger hole to accommodate a portion of the carb inside the firewall, so you can get the proper length when you mount your cowling.

Hope you can get the 50DL into the Pitts, as it will pull it straight up like the space shuttle.
Geppino

Hey Geppino
i replyed to your email Bud,i forgot to send you some pictures,i will send another email with the pictures and hope you can help but the hole in the firewall sounds like a good idea,but to acomodate the engine in there i would probably have to shorten the engine mount standoffs,i juat didnt want to do that since they have a good sturdy flange for them to sit nice and strait,i'll see what i can come up with,i would really like to hear from anyone that has done this but till now i havent seen or heard of anyone using the DL 50 engine in the great planes 1/3 scale pitts special,im sure it can be done with alittle imagination,i guess i dont have it in me,well not at the moment but i'll think of something

You can get standoffs in custom lengths from one of the guys here on the forums. I have several sets I got from him and they are very nice. His name is Roger Forgues. I think the website is www.forgues-research.com/

You can try PSP Manufacturing they have stand off, Ive got them on my GP Christen Eagle II with a DL 50,

http://www.PSPmfg@com/