I personally like the single bolt adaptor .then you dont need a jig to bore holes.sometime less is more.the only thing I had to do is ajust my standoff's as it is ummm say 3/16 longer..

jody....I got the spinner.nice! was installing my throttle servo and then I realized there is a tension spring on the throttle lever.do most pilots remove it so the throttle arm is free of tension..how hard is to remove.??or just leave itbut then I worry about the battery.

Some do, some don't. I prefer to leave it as it puts very little strain on a servo and if anything happens to the linkage it will return to idle. If you don't want it pulling on the servo Do Not Remove IT!!! Just unhook the end of the spring so it is not pulling on the arm. The spring is required to keep side tension on the shaft so it does not vibrate. If it is totally removed your carb will have a very short life. It won't take long for it to wear and start leaking air.

wellll now after reading maybe its not such a bad idea to leave it ...I was only figuring that that tension would affect thebattery but apparently not much.and I see the other reason for keeping it on as well.

I leave the spring as it is, no need to unhook it or cut it. Whatever you do, don't take it off.</p>

Jody, Well once we/I have removed the spring what do we do????

What I mean is I DID remove the spring and there is no way I can
use/replace it! I may not be the only person to have done it.

Put it or another oneback on...

...or soon you'll be needing a new carb.

Why take it off, where in any engine manual does it say .........

If you use a arm on the throttle that is at least one inch long the servo will pull the throttle open easy. A lot of guys worry about the load would be too much on the servo....well it is not. The max load would be at full throrrle only on the arm....and you are not going to be at full throttle much with all the power on hand! That spring prevents viabration from wearing the plate to bore fit. Also if the linkage came loose...the spring will bring the throttle back to closed or if you use a stop...it would run at that speed. I used a nose steering arm that slips right on throttle shaft. Capt,n...over &amp; out!

Slip a short piece of tygon fuel tubing over the shaft to keep it from vibrating sideways...
Somewhere along the line an internet engine "expert" said the spring is too strong and the myth was perpetuated..Isn't the inter net wonderful ? So many experts, so many sheep following bad advice

Well I have taken two of the springs off and destroyed them in the process!
We will see how long it is before I need a new carb.
I have many gas engines some 20 ys + and I have always taken
off the spring and never had to replace a carb because of doing so.
The shaft that supports the buttetrfly is secured with "C" clamps so
I do not see now the the spring helps anything on a carb origanally
designed for an industral engine. I can not, for the life of me, see how
the spring stops any sideway vibrating. Having desroyed the springs,
Antique's Tygon suggestion looks like my best bet. Thanks

Thinking back many many years, I believe I was told by an "Expert" that if I unhooked the
spring and left it that it would/might cause the spring to rattle and cause RF interference, hence
remove it completely. Sounded good at the time!

The spring pulls the shaft against the circlip on the other side...
Takes a long time to destroy the carb, probably longer than you will fly the airplane when you start with a new carb ...

the spring stays on end of story lol.

my big thing is the hand cranking of a dle.I have a dynatron if I double the volts to 24 will that give me enough amps to turn that motor ....arthritis doesnt allow me the luxury to risk my fingers

I can relate. If I have an engine that gives me any grief it does not take long and I am almost in tears (so to speak) from the pain in my shoulder. Starting my 170's dang near kills me.

Dynatron on 4 cell A123-2300 spins at about 2400 rpm... sometimes I dont have the idle high enough and when I pull the starter off and the engine slows down it hits and runs... No spinner so a single bolt prop is a good idea as you cant keep the starter centered on a 4 bolt setup with no spinner...

The 4 cell A123-1100 would spin the DLE-30 with choke off.... wont with choke on... engine has good compression.

This weekend I started using the new A123-4400 cells and the 4S pack spins the 30 like water....128 amps continuous....

Picture

cloudancer-3 - I'm using a Sullivan Dynatron starter with a 3" cone\insert. Have discovered that it will turn the DLE 30 over with just my 12V 7A Torqmaster battery (though sometimes it's sluggish to start). But it does work. I do plan on coupling two LIPO's for a 24V source.

something wrong with starting these Puppy's with the hands ? none of my 4 DLE gives me a fight ever, they don't start flippin them by hand something wrong period, do it right they woun't scratch yah.
I don't like fight em them with starters, no need for that, not to mention it might brake something else with wobbling starter cones and such stuff.

Nope....and no wobbly here...Each to his own..... my 55 and 150 get started by hand too.....why do we do it....




Cause we can...............................

That short piece of tygon fuel tubing placed just right will help seal the shaft...lube it with silicone spray once in a while right at the area where it contacs carb body. Capt,n

To tell you the truth, even my 157/170s 3W's with RCXL and DA conversions don't give me a fight, got all the sequences down to predictable and none of them hardly ever fails to do what it is supposed to do, fire Up by flipping the Wood in front of them and make it go around. Anyhow, like the RCEXL better than the Da ignitions, but don't like to disturb a running system. All the boo booos are out of the DLE's i have (5 singles) and all are being straighten out with timing and Walbro carburetor Gage, had the same boo boooo's with the others, so why bother to make a point here, figure it out, flipp it, fly it, enjoy it, that's what it's all about. If she ticks right, stop to tickle it, no more horses left ? deal with it, sometimes it can't get better than it is. Still have to thank Jody by flagging some interesting input i used to get things straight by reading, and others helped too with tere input, by making me think, dumped 3 ignitions from the DLE's and I am happy with the DLE Engines.. May unload my 3W's soon to replace them with DLE but $$ is short right now and the 40+%ters are parked anyways.
Michael
PS: tried a DLA 32 (here from the Universe)(, crapped out on the Bench) Piston just pinched out in the sleeve (like no coating and forgotten final machining), replaced Cylinder and Piston with DLE 30 stuff (fits perfect), guess what, finally runs with no issues. just another ?????????????, bummer But have a shiny Crank case , and it's cured, read up on stuff and your good to go i guess.

Where did you get the A123-4400 cells?

I import A123's for my product line. Had to fairly beg for these... evaluation period right now. Not feasible for flight in my mind right now. They are honkers though.

does your muffler leak from the welds?