Ok I will drop the subject. <div>
</div><div>I doubt he will reply anyway. </div><div>
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VeeAte,

Here is a pic of my DLE 30 mounted on the front of the H9 Taylorcraft. I'm using Pennzoil at 32:1 and swinging a XOAR prop at about 8100-8300 rpm. I have the idle down to around 1700-1800 rpm. My engine still has the dieing issue but it's fine in the air and keeps running when I land. I'm satisfied with the way it runs. I may have just got lucky with mine. I'd like to have another one but I think I'll wait and see how the newer engines are doing first.

Nice install Zippi. <div>
</div><div>Is that a different type of hub setup you have on your engine?</div><div>
</div><div>What size prop are you running?</div><div>I forgot to ask what the guys at our club are running, but one of them mentioned an 18x10 Hawk (I think).</div><div>
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guess I will wait until next flying season before investing in a gas engine.I wanted a dl30 but money isnt cheap for me and I am not do it yourselfer so based on the problems posted in this thread I'll pass or stick with another brand ..I just want to mount a 30cc size engine on my extra and go fly and not have to fuss or worry it will die in the air.

Would you like to see pictures of it assembled or disassembled? How about pictures of a YD-A 112? Or a DLE 111? Then you might want to see proof of a BME 116, DA 150, Brison 6.4, Brison 3.2, 3w-28, 3w-24, DA-100, Precision Eagle 4.4, RCGF 100, etc., etc,. etc.

I'm not going to waste my time with any of the picture taking stuff, but yes, I have a DLE 30 and a whole lot more. Some of the intake plenum stuffer idea came about when Jody came over and we chewed the fat about the design over my kitchen table.

BTW, Overall I think the DLE 30 is a good engine. It could stand a couple of minor changes but I can say the same for every engine on the market, and some that will never be.

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</div><div>Your comment about people stepping up to the plate and purchasing a tried and true 3W-28i or Zenoah G26 had me thinking you wouldnt spend money on something as untried and untrue as a DLE-30. </div><div> </div><div>
</div><div>I have no doubt that you are knowledgable when it comes to engines. Not that a list of engines convinced me of that. </div><div>You have answered questions of mine on threads in the past and I have read your responses to other peoples questions as well. </div><div>
</div><div>I just dont think there is any need to call those of us less fortunate to have your experience or education "the masses" and unable to retain anything taught to us for longer than 10 minutes. </div><div>
</div><div>That horse of yours is looking rather lengthy in the legs. </div><div>
</div><div>I will leave it at that. </div><div>If you wish to say anything further please use PM. Save the rest of the people here from our disagreement. </div><div>
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VeeAte,

Thanks dude. I bought the engine from Ralph Cunningham and had him change it over to a single bolt prop hub. Don't care for the multi bolt prop hubs. IMO they are not needed. I am running a XOAR 18X8 prop (White Sword Version ).

Thanks for the info Zippi. <div>
</div><div>I might look into getting the conversion done at a later date. </div><div>I have a 26cc engine here that runs a single bolt to hold the prop and it has held up fine so far. </div><div>
</div><div>Will see how many props I kill trying to drill the holes accurately </div><div>
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I believe this should be made public so it won't go into a PM.

The comment about the tried and true 3w 28 or a Zenoah product is quite relevant. People know that higher quality costs more but they don't want, or can't afford, to pay for that level of quality. However, they can or will afford to buy at lower price points. When they elect to do so they fail to remember they are not paying for the best quality, but for lessor quality. Then they expect to have the same level of performance and quality available at a much higher price with the better product. If you aren't capable of paying for the best quality, you should not expect the best possible quality...or performance. You've paid for fair to good quality and performence, not the best. If you expect the best possible quality, or try to force a manufacturer to increase the quality and performance of their products, anticipate that soon you'll be paying a much higher price for it. Until then the issue isn't with the quality of the budget manufacturers product, the problem is with the consumers that expect to receive more than they paid for. The consumer has the responsibility to determine what they want, what they need, and what they can afford. If they cannot afford the best, they should not expect the best, and accept the compromise that came of their decision.

I do the R/C forum thing for fun. I don't have a hobby shop, I'm not a distributor or importer, and I don't receive any compensation for the information and assistance I provide. That's as it should be probably. However, I get a might riled when people seem to think they deserve a full education in two stroke operation and design for free. Even worse is when hundreds of posts have been made about various subject matter and people jump in with questions that have been alrready answered over, and over, and over. They get mad when they are told to do a search. So my reference to people not remembering things for longer than 10 minutes has been well supported over the years because you see the same people asking the same questions about something previously responded to many times over.

Then you have the people that became virtually irate when Jody, myself, RCIGN, TKG, Al Lewis, and others did not post pictures and information that provided a free fix for a manufacturer defect. Seems everyone thought our time and labor should be just given to "the masses". Like we have no value. We had an opportunity to leverage the manufacturer into doing something instead of letting them know that anyone with any mechanical talent could do the work for them. Instead everyone whined and cried about an "issue" that still isn't that big a deal. Many of those whining the loudest didn't even have an engine!

I'm only guessing, but based on what I know Jody was doing at the time, the guy probably had close to $500.00 in out of pocket expenses, plus free time, that he put into the intake plenum fix. Ya'll know what he got out of it? Nada, but everyone that bought a relatively inexpensive engine thought he owed them. The other way around would be accurate from my perspective. The guy works his butt off trying to make everyone happy and handle their problems. I used to do a lot of the same but learned you don't get anything back for your efforts except an arguement from those that have a different view or lack the knowledge to make an accurate assessment.

As for being "fortunate", hogwash. I have to work for everything I receive, and some of that put my life at great risk. I have the same financial limits most everyone does but I learned how to save a dime here and there and buy after saving. Because I want or wanted something did not mean I could have it. As for being fortunate to work with two stroke engines and other "toys"...it's a job, just like any other job, and everyone just can't wait to get up in the morning and head to work, right? I'd much rather be "fortunate" and have millions of $$ available so I could just go out and do whatever I wanted.

No issue with what you posted above at all. <div>
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</div><div>You have misinterpreted some of the things I said. And thats understandable. Text based communication is atrocious at conveying what someone wishes to say a lot of the time. </div><div>
</div><div>I could break down each paragraph of your post and explain myself. But that wouldnt be fair on the other forum users. Nor, I am sure, do you want to continue this discussion. </div><div>
</div><div>My apologies to anyone offended or annoyed by my posts. Yourself included T.O.M. </div>

And mine to you if such came across negatively.

I wish all the best Christmas, Hannuka, or whatever seasonal celebrations you observe. It is the season for harmony and appreciation, regardless of what level each may be at in their personal lives.

Im making my own drill jig and I do not have my dle30 yet. Someone said center to center across the diagonal on the prop pins is 26mm and center to center across the square side is 18. That does not come out right if it is 18mm center to center across the square sides it would be very close to 25.4 on the bolt circle. Could someone comfirm the bolt circle diameter on the prop pins. Thanks a bunch

sbdwag

Might be better to wait for the engine and then make the drill jig. Once you have the engine, the use of a drill press through the prop washer mimics a drill jig.

What I did after I got my engine was to drill a hole through the prop I was going to use just a tad under-size using a drill press. Then used a adjustable reamer in drill press to get a slip fit onto the prop shaft. When you make your drilling jig, I made the back side of the jig to fit tight into the prop. Also knurled the outer surface to be able to remove it. You can use the prop washer like TOM said to locate the holes or use a math formula....wich I cannot describe that well. Capt,n

Thanks for the info. Im a designer in a Machine shop so I will have no problems wire burning a drill jig out of harden material. I just wanted to have the drill jig done before I got the engine. But no problems I can wait a little longer.

Which brings up another question. Im putting the DLE30 on a 13.5 lb 80" wingspan Giant Big Stick. What size props should I start out with to break in the motor and fly with the first few gallons.


Thanks
sbdwag

I have a 19x8 for mine. It's commonly used on them around here

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</div><div>Anyone have an electronic copy of a mounting template for the DLE-30?</div><div>
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Easy to make a template. Just install the bolts and stand-offs in place without the lock-nuts. Set a card on a flat surface and set engine on it. Then you mark the card around the stand-offs. Make sure to push down on engine to make sure the "feet" contact good before you mark. Measure from all 4 holes to get crankshaft center. Worked for me!!! Capt,n

http://www.dlenginesaustralia.com/dl...iewDoc&docId=9

Make sure to print it the way it says on the document.

That's how Inormally do mine

Thanks for the information and the link  <div>
</div><div>Nearly ready to mount the 30 into an ESM Corsair. I mounted my other gas engine without the factory supplied template as you guys described, but was concerned wether I had the legs parallel to each other or not so for peace of mind will use the template this time. </div><div>
</div><div>Not the best at building etc so better off playing it safe. </div><div>
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I too like TOM said in post #1304 had to earn everything the hard way. Even built my own house, installed the heating system, wiring ect. I do enjoy helping others. Always did even back in high school when in the shop class I was helping other,s and neglected my own projects. I try to help anyone on anything I can do. One thing we should all be more thank-full to be able to help & be very thank-full for what health we may have. That is important to remember & Christmas is near and its a good time to rejoice in/with our creator. Merry Christmas...Thanks for all we have....and a Happy & better New year!

Here is my fix with 100% gas and oil proof aluminum

aLLe, Looks like a good job. Also best photos so we can see all the engine too. Thanks and have a MERRY CHRISTMAS. Capt,n

Nice job, but how did you do it?

 Did you tig weld it or use some kidn of filler?

Curious minds need to know?