Count me in on the "how to" request. My engine was OK (mostly) untill this cold weather hit. Can't even think about flying now cause it's 26* and snowing and over a foot of snow on the deck and and and. And I need to modify my engine. Thx. Bob

There's a Devcon epoxy product that will work like that real nice aluminum job. It contains a whole bunch of titanium and machines extremely well. Won't fall out or break loose inside the plenum. Expensive!!

A little secret for cold wx running. Insulate your engines to keep the heat in, instead of cooling them. Reduce the amount of incoming cooling area. Pre-heat your engines before trying to start them. A heat gun works real good

T.O.M.
Where do you plug in the heat gun?

A currant bush maybe

Some sites have outlets at the field, some don't. Leaving the plane in the car with the heater turned up high is another option. Planes using a 30 are generally rather small. Or just find that person that always has that electric personality and plug into the appropriate orifice...

A red fire bush would probably do it by itself?

There is enough hot air on forums to take of it. What we use in the race car dry sump tank is a heater like this:
http://www.hrpworld.com/index.cfm?tp...action=product

It is easy enough to use an inverter running off the car battery to power it up.
<br type="_moz" />

You stuff the intake with clay mark your carb port , carve out the clay around it back to reed area smooth it let clay dry or heat it dry
Get some alumaweld rod from weld shop it melts at 700 plus degrees with propane torch
Stand it up heat maniflod, touch rod on insides till full
File the face with good flat file
If for some reason you want it out just heat to above 700 degrees will run right out
This is real aluminum acually stronger and welds to the manifold
It takes a little time and skill but will last

I tested epoxy and jb weld and body putty after leaving them a few days in jar of 2 cycle gas you could crumble them in your fingers
I know the intake is not flooded all the time with fuel I just dont think it would last,also it may bounce around and possibly get into reeds or cylinder if falls apart

Dont take offense to my opinion about epoxy type fixes it just isnt for me, I figured I would postmine if anyone would like to use it</p>

Any special type of clay? Have you tested the fix yet? How did it run before you did the fix?

alle, that sure looked like a good way to do the intake runner. What kind of clay did you use? Did you need to add any sealant on the base gasket on re-assembly? Thanks Capt,n

This seems to be a lot af angst to start a small 2 stroke.

Most snowmobiles are 2 strokes and have very little trouble starting at - 25 C, if there is trouble some either quick start from your automotive supply will get them running quick. a quick shot into the carb and away you go.

Not much oil in that either. Quite a few people will use far too much of it. I use the stuff for starting engines on the "bench" but it's never more than a quick shot at the right time.

The titanium filled Devcon product has been used to rework cylinder ports in morotcycles. If you do a good job of cleaning and scuffing before hand it does not loosen or fall out.

I have a 10 year old set of Chevrolet race car heads that have epoxy in the intakes. It is very thin however.

Started the DLE 30 in my TLT yak today. Took alot to get it wet, but then started right up. Running a 18-8 APC on 32:1 gsa oil(laenboy) mix. Factory settings. Didnt sound rich, but after two tanks of heatup/cooldown running I was able to only get 16.5 lbs thrust on fish scale. How much more can I expect with time and proper gas/oil ratio, and carb tuning. I didnt tach the top end but I got it to idle reliably at 2100 rpm. The tilt test slowed the idle some but engine didnt die. I think it would have if idle were any lower...antiquefer

Hey antiquefer,

Maybe you might want to get rid of the Lawnboy oil though. There are much better alternatives like Pennzoil and others.
The idle will get lower and the high end higher as your engine wears in !
They are great little engines

apalsson I plan to switch to Stihl synthetic after breakin...............antiquefer.

You need to do it before you fill the tank again. Tweak the needles as well during the next run. Then again, it is your engine....

In the race class I competed in for several years, our small block Chevy engines were very restricted on carbs and intake manifold configurtions. But there were no rules governing modifications to manifolds. Some guys spent thousands of $$$$ to have their intake manifolds modified for optimal airflow. They cut the intake manifolds in half lengthwise to get access to the ports then the ports were reconfigured using a combination of tig welding and filled epoxies. After grinding the ports to shape, the manifolds were rewelded back together. Have seen the same thing done in cylinder head intake ports. The point here being that the filled epoxies held up extremely well. I wouldn't hesitate to use them on one of our gas engines.

T.O.M and apalsson, The engine and plane are in fact not mine. I installed it for a friend. I said it was mine caus it was easier. I wish it were. Anyway, Upon seing what you wrote about Lawnboy, I was concerned and called the owner. He said the gas oil mix he gave me to run in the engine was in fact penziol @ 32:1. Dont know why I thought it was Lawnboy. I am glad that what ever is wrong with Lawnboy, I didnt use it. Thanks for the help.......................antiquefer.

Can you recomend what brand of epoxies that you would use? Also do you do anything to the surface where the epoxy is applied? Thanks Capt,n

I've been away from that for awhile now but remember they just applied the filler to a very well cleaned, freshly ground surface. Some guys used the Devcon product Tired Old Man talks about ..... some just used JB Weld. I no longer have a contact who I could confirm this with though.

I don't have the precise name of the Devcon filled product. You can Google "Devcon" and work your way through a couple of Devcon pages to get to the right one. It's a titanium filled epoxy and the only one they have. It's better than the J.B. Weld by an order of magnitutde. Not a glue as much as a filler that accepts high tolerance machining and will handle the heat of the transfer and boost port sections of cylinders. It does not come cheap and is available in 1/2 and 1 pound quantities.

Checking my only remaining source for info on our intake manifold work ..... they were using the aluminum filled Devcon product. Similar to the titanium filled product at a much reduced price. It has very similar chemical and heat resistance as the titanium product. Its machinable, etc. As TOM suggested, go to the Devcon website and look under epoxy metal repair products. I think the titanium product might be overkill as an intake stuffer but both products should work OK. Devcon also makes pourable filled products for those who might prefer something like that opposed to the thicker putty products.

T.O.M, I want you to know that I have read many of your posts, and have gleaned quite abit of good information and have learned alot from them.

I have found out for myself that I learn as I go, and most times learn something new everyday. And also to respect those that know more than I do.

So here is my question, You have posted many times about people buying lower quality parts, engines and so on. And expecting to get high quality products.

I took the time to go and check out the sales adds of the sellers of the DLE 30 engines, below is a direct copy and paste from one of the adds,

I have sold many of these to my buddies at our local field and have had no issues whatsoever! They have performed flawlessly!

Now after reading this, and MANY of the other adds that the sellers put out there, it is easy to see why the buyer would think that he or she is getting a good working product.

If you could shed some light on why sellers state these engines are so great, and then the engines turn out to have problems, could you,
Please tell us all why you believe the buyer is so wrong for expecting to receive what they pay for??? Or in the very least what the SELLERS are advertising???

I live my life every day thinking that I should get what I pay for. And it should be as it is advertised.

I wish you and everyone else the best life has to offer. And I mean NO ONE any disrespect.

The exhaust pipe on the car works well. Used it for years with glow engines.

L.