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Well, I got up so fast today I busted my head into the wall, but it didn't help! [:@] It was 42 outside, If I can get 50 this week end I'll do a little run in on one of my planes.

I hope you had a great day!

Andy

Well since nobody but Jody has said anything about the way the engine runs with the backplate,I will.
I Installed the engine in one of my GB Sukhois, that was a job and a half,but we got it and I ran it today for the first time.
It took about 6 flips to get it to fire on choke and it did run for maybe 15 secs, I then started it again another 2-3 flips then let it warm up so it would transition somewhat then started to turn the needles untill I got somewhere close.
Now all I have for a prop is a APC 18x6 W untill my order gets here, so made that do for now.
After a finer adjustment on the low end and leaned out the top ,the engine would idle at around 1700 steady, it would go lower but being new and not broke in yet it didn't like it, so 1680-1700 is where I let it run at for the low, the high was to much I got 8340 on a new engine that isn't broke in, so i'm sure it will do better once I get some time on it.
I won't run it again untill my props get here. I hope I didn't screw up by not ordering a 19 inch prop. Oh well If I need it, I need it and know where there at.*L*
Overall I was very impressed with the engine and they way it's running, the 2300 ST that was in the plane won't hold a candle to what this engine is putting out.
Should be alot of fun when the weather permits us to do some flying here.

I did make a Single bolt prop deal that worked out quite well. I'll make up another and show you guys what it is all about.
Anybody else have there engine going yet, lets hear about it.
Richard.

Cyberwolf,

My DL-30 out-of the box would turn my 18X8 mejlik at 8300 at the top end and would idle at 1800.

I have since put a 19X8 mejlik on it. 1750-1800 idle 7800 top end.

I am sure the idle will come down as I put more time on the engine, as well as the high end will come up some.

MR G

BTW: The 'Cyberplate' looks great!! and Thankyou for sharing your skills!!

Y.W. Mr G, you have to remember something I'm at 4500 feet and your what 700 feet ??? Make's a heck of a lot of difference. I have never seen any engine that wouldn't perform better at a lower altitude. Also mejlik prop is noted for higher RPM's than most others.

I am at 300 feet but never got more than 7100-7200 on 19x8 JXF. I will let you know new numbers when I get my cyber plate.

Mine turned a Xoar 18x8 at only 7750 yet it would turn a 18x10 Mejzlik at 7950 on the same tank of fuel. A Xoar/JFX puts much more load on an engine compared to the Mejzlik.

The Mejzlik costs more than twice as much as a Xoar

Ok gentlemen, want to see what your Cyberplate will run like?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=76de5G7L5Ug

The reasons I like to use the mejlik props:

1) Carbon fiber props don't need to have the prop bolts loosened when not in use to prevent crushing the prop hub due to swelling (this is a PITA).
I am in Texas and we get lots of humidity and dry air also. This may not be a problem in more northern locations.

2) The Mejlik props don't seem to load the engine as much, alowing for higher rpm with less load.

3) The carbon fiber props look GOOD!!! ( hey, why not??)

Looking good Jody!

Cyber,

I was hoping you would be getting closer to 9000 rpm on the APC 18X6. I'm at 300' and get 9200 on my OS 160FX. I Know I know glow engines always make more power. Heck that's why the hobby switched to glow in the first place. I guess want comes around goes around.

Your new dle30 is on par with a new syssa 30.

The DLE30 is not just about high rpm. It will handle a larger prop and that is where it is showing it's strength. Try putting a Xoar 19x8 on the Syssa and see what it does. My bet is it will not have the power to use it.

Read my post again I said 18x6 W, I have 2 OS 160 FX did have three but sold one anyhow they won't come close to spinning that same prop that high at my altitude. Very slow spool up, That wide prop pulls hard even with a 6 pitch. Your not compairing apples to apples here. Which is altitude, your down on the deck there in RI and im on a mountain top, you can draw much more air and more air means more fuel, more fuel means more power and as a rule more RPM's.
Although your air density is thicker, it's no way a trade off as some like to think. Yes I could more than likly put a 18x6 APC on the engine and get it close to the 9 K your talking about, but why, it wouldn't fly the plane for beans let alone have any pullout from a hover. And doing so would just short life the engine anyway.

Hi Richard,

APC only makes a 18X6 in a W. Both of my 160fx's spin that prop @ 9200 on 10% nitro. They also turn a Mejzlik 20X6, Bolly 18X8 carbon and Bolly 16.5X10 three blade @ 7800 on 5% (all I run now for nitro) and a superquiet Jtec Dual snuffler muffler. The DLE is supposed to make peak hp around 8500. I understand for friction loss purposes you want to stay around 7000 rpm, 6500 is even better if the engine can handle that without overheating. An 18X6W will make almost as much speed and more thrust @9000 rpm as a 19X8@ 7000. Properly tuned, Zenoah engines can run 10,000 rpm without problems.

Like I said im not at sea level, make's all the difference in the world and at one time APC did make a sport 18x6 but its no longer made. Just like the 13x8 is no longer made in the pattern but still made in the sport. Not any of my 160's will turn that prop over maybe 8 K 7600-7800 rings a bell at the most and spool up is slower than cold tar on 15 % nitro. I took it off and used a 16x10 that worked well, then I got the 9 K + your talking about Like I said you can't compair apples to oranges. Try running one of your engines at 4500 to 5000 feet and see what I mean, just try cause thats about all you will do W/O changeing props.
And really I want thrust not RPM's, the two don't always go hand in hand.

APC never made a APC 18X6, only 18X6W. I called and confirmed. The APC 17X8 is slightly more load. Having run and flown props, 18X6W, 17X8, 18X8, 18x8W, 19X8W, all APC, the 18X6W always provided better overall performance (thrust/speed) on the OS 160FX and the FX spins all these props faster than a DLE 30 can. That engine, when properly tuned can idle for over five minutes at 1800 rpm, jab the throttle and it will go full throttle with only the slightest hesitation and then throttle is quick after that.

Sounds like the thin air sucks the life out of engines, you'll be lucky to get 6500 rpm on a 19X8 whereas everyone else at lower altitude gets 7000-7200. What's the altitude where Jody lives?

Sea level.

There's no "sounds like" about it. The engines we fly are normally aspirated, meaning there is no boost to the induction. The most they receive is ambient air pressure when they run. That air pressure reduces with altitude. So our engines produce their best power at sea level because that is where the highest concetration of oxygen is. Base all the performance on what is known as a "standard day" where the barometer is 29.92 in.hg., humidity is zero, and the temperature is 59*f. Any upward departures from those parameters and engine performance decreases proportunately. So does the performance of a fixed pitch propeller and designed wing lift efficiencies.

Unless an engine has a means of offsetting decreasing oxygen content and air pressure you lose performance with altitude and temperature gains. The incorporation of turbos, blowers, and fuel injection are not cost effective for our engine sizes. The first two would boost induction pressures and combustion oxygen content while injection only improves fuel quantity for the available oxygen via an O2 sensor and trick software. Many would like any of those three to be available, but only an extreme few would be willing to pay the expense. A 30cc engine equipped with fuel injection would cost well over $1,000.00, and only that low if thousands of them were sold. I know this to be 100% accurate since it has already been done. The weight and costs involved with a turbo or blower would not be practical for engines less than 150cc's in size.

TOM,

I used to post the air temp, humdity and altitude when giving rpm readings in the past and understand the importance. Never realized how much altitude pays a part of it.

"Sounds like" you lose 25-30% of the power @ 5000'. Do you have an exact formula or figure? Should I start a seperate thread?

Whatever Brian, you don't even have a engine to test yet and already compairing it to another brand and make.
Jody didn't loose a thing with the new backplate, and you won't either.
What I get here is of no value to you to make a base decision on and really should be of no consequence to you.
8500 for top HP is with what prop and what altitude, HP is just a advertising gimmick that is basically a worthless figure.
When you get your engine, prop it to get the 8500 RPM's then tell us what prop your using. It won't be anything thats usable i'd be willing to bet on that. Plus the fact you will be out of the torque range of the engine. But I guess that dosen't matter.
Also 10 ozs of gas thru the engine is not enough to determine what my engine will do. Maybe after a gallon or two thru it then I can get some RPM's readings that count.

Richard,

Comparing posted rpm findings at the same elevation without including the crazy prop stuff, the dle 30 and Syssa are within 250 rpm of each other running 18X6W or Vess 18X6 props. IMO the only benefit to running a 19X8 vs. a 18X6 is noise. When and if Ralph ever gets his SAP 180 from Todd we'll see what's what. And when I finally get my DLE we'll see what heat cycles and old fashioned break-in can do.

BTW,

"Sounds like" all new dle engines are coming with the new tach tap rcexl ignitions.

Here are the pics of the single bolt prop holder I came up with, the only trouble is you need a deep well socket to reach the 11 MM hex, I had to drill mine deeper to reach the original one let alone one the ones I made.

Looks good. Did you tap it for a 10-32 spinner bolt?

I wonder why DLE uses the threaded stud on the end of the crank rather than a seperate stud that screws into the crankshaft. Any thoughts?

Very simple and effective, nice.

A note about the new Rcexl tach. I found it read differently than my optical tach by about 100 rpms if I recall when I tested my DLE30. I forget which way the difference went, but if I recall the optical tach I have read lower. It is the same as the one Jody has in the video. I am going to fool with it some more when spring arrives. Either way I think the Rcexl oneshould be more accurate as it uses the ignition pulses.