Ken-h

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Hey guys,

They are finally here! I am starting an assembly thread as the manuals are around a week and a half out. Here are some picture of packaging and contents. The boxes are well packed and lined with ply because we all know how careful the shippers are. A lot of attention to detail has gone into the airframe and your going to see what PAU is really about. I be using a DA-100 for one and a DA-85 for the other. I will likely use canisters for both.

Ken

Ken-h

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Here are some more pictures of the contents.

Ken

JohnVH

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WOW, those are awesome! You see that hardware? Me likey! *cough* cant wait to fly it *cough* [8D]

Ken-h

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I have some more pictures. First is of the hardware set and the rest of the goodies for the build. I am going to try and use a KS95 canister for the DA-85 with a 50mm drop header. The KS95 is not really the ideal canister for the motor as it's large and the fit will be tight. We'll see how that goes.

For servos, I am using 6 8611's for ailerons, elevators, and a single 8711 for the rudder for both airplanes.

Power is supplied by Fromeco. 3x 2600mAh Lithium Ion batteries. Two for the receiver and one for ign. Also 3x Fromeco regulators and a Wolverine switch. A single HD switch for ign.

Ken

Ken-h

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Now on the some pictures of the inside. The firewall is marked for the thrust-line and offset center-line. I'll be providing DA-100 templates with the manual. For those that don't want to wait, all you have to do is center the DA-100 or 85 for that matter on the "X". I'll go more into that later. The antenna tube is optional and is just taped on the rudder tray and can be discarded for the 2.4 users. The paint matching to the covering is excellent.

Ken

ciressarg

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I got mine today. It arrived unharmed. Very well packed and well made, I wish I had orded my other stuff sooner. I guess I can put stickers on it, control horns and ELE servo's. The rest will be here mid next week. This should be a fun one.

DA 85 W/ KS can
4 5955's, 2 8611a's, 1 8711, 1 5645, 3 A123's, 1 10ch receiver no expander, fiber kill and SWB's all around.


Eric

JohnVH

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Awesome Eric, congrats!!

sweetpea01

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Is th canopy already glued down on both the 36 and 43%?

Ken-h

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Glad to hear Eric!

Sweetpea,

Nope, the canopy is separate and can be glued or screwed on with the provided hardware. I be discussing that when I get there.

Ken

Ken-h

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OK, I am going to start with the elevators so I can get those out of the way. The bolt packages are all labeled as to what they go to, so finding parts is a snap. First you need to find the pre-drilled holes for the steel posts. All the hard points are pre-drilled for the hardware. Once found, I use an old soldering iron and melt the covering exposing the holes. An xacto works fine, I know...it's an old habit. Now I have installed the posts and used blue loc-tite on the post before you fasten it in like shown. Now we'll screw on the horns.

Find the servo holes, cut the covering and install your servos with the output shaft facing the control surface. With the servos centered, install you arms. I've used 1.5" SWB double lock arms for this application. Next just put on a HD Dubro ball on the counter clockwise side of the 2-1/2" H9 push-rods, screw the other end into the horn and attach the the servo arm. Don't forgot to tighten all your locknuts.

Repeat this operation for the ailerons using the 3" push rods. I'll be covering the landing gear next.

Ken

Ken-h

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When installing the hardware in the wings, make sure that you install the horns at the same height from the hinge line (see attached). Also make sure your servo arms are parallel to the hinge line. By doing so you will have very little servo matching to do afterwards.

Ken

Henna Ojisan

Sweet - looking forward to seeing this at the field!

Jason

Ken-h

My Feedback: (3)

Mounting the landing gear is pretty straightforward. I like mounting the gear first as it avoids hanger rash from me, the table, and the tools on the table while I am working. First you’ll need to nock out the plywood opening the canister tunnel. Use a hobby knife on the small area not cut with a laser and lightly tap it out with a small hammer.

Find the four holes for the main gear and the single hole for the tail wheel assembly. Again, grab that old soldering iron or xacto and clear the holes in the covering.

Install the Dubro axles on the main gear and fasten it to the fuse with the 4 8/32 bolts with locknuts. Loc-tite is unnecessary here. Once the mains are on, insert the tail wheel assembly and lightly tap in flush with a small hammer. Next, mark the two hold downs and mount them with the four wood screws securing the tail wheel assembly. Remove the wood screws and coat the holes with thin CA, let dry, reinstall.

Ken

Ken-h

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Now I am going install the Dubro wheels so there centered on the axels using the four Durbo collars. Be sure and use lock-tite on the setscrews. Demel an opening in the wheel pants so they will pass onto the axel. To get the right angle for the pants, I used a standard servo and placed it at the end of the pant resting the end on the rubber grommets of the servo. Mark the pants and drill and install the 4/40 blind nuts. Be sure and glue in the blind nuts and allow to cure. Now you can install the wheel pants with the 4/40 bolts and washers. Don’t forget to use loc-tite here again. Wheel pants tend to take the most vibration. I'll try and get back to it this afternoon.

Ken

sweetpea01

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Looks good Ken

Ken-h

My Feedback: (3)

Thanks Sweetpea,

Hopfully I'll get some flying in tomorrow. Man, long hard winter this year.

On to the rudder! Before we install the rudder, I am going to add the hardware to the rudder before attaching it to the fuse. Install the steel tiller horn just behind the hinge line on the bottom of the rudder using the two small wood screws. Again remove and wick thin CA in the holes and reinstall.

Included is a HD pull-pull system from Dubro. Also there’s a longer 8/32 stainless threaded rod in the hardware set. Locate the hard point and install the longer 8/32 rod and supplied hardware from Dubro. You don’t have to use the nuts to lock everything in place if you use the loc-tite like before.

Now that we’re done with that, will go ahead and epoxy the rudder in place. The hinges are already installed on the rudder side so this is a fast step. Once the epoxy has set we’ll attach the tail wheel springs.

Ken-h

My Feedback: (3)

For the rudder servos, I am using a single JR 8711 rudder servo with a 4� offset servo arm for both airplanes. For the 100cc I am mounting it in the rear servo mount. If your using an 85, I would put it into the forward servo mount since it’s a much lighter motor. If your using two, I guess it doesn’t matter. However from this step forward, DA-85 users should be mindful as you add hardware so you don’t have to shift everything forward later on.

Now having said all that, a stand alone bell crank is ideal if your worried about wear on the output shaft of the servo. I use the KISS principle…besides it works. I’ll be more likely to dirt nap it doing something I stupid long before I ware out the output shaft of the servo. Attach the supplied pull-pull cable in a crossed fashion.

Ken

rcairflr

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Ken. when you get a chance could you post a picture of inside landing gear structure? BTW, your new Edge looks very nice.

Ken-h

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There are two switch locations on the forward part on each side of the fuse. They'll both accept HD standard switches. For the wolverine I had to do a little hacking but worth the results. Fuel dot is now installed.

Ken

Ken-h

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rcairflr,

I thought I did when I mounted the gear. I'll try and remember to take more. The gear platform is pretty standard stuff with aluminum "L" bracket and it's sturdy. Thanks!

Ken

Ken-h

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Now it's time to add more sweetness, the DA-100. As mentioned before, the firewall is pre-marked so you'll just need to center your motor in the "+". Take a ruler and draw a line across the entire firewall for the thrust line and offset center line.

I drew out the template and taped it on the firewall as shown and drilled the holes for the 1/4-20's. We'll be providing a template for the DA-100. You will need 1-1/4" standoffs for the 100, and four 1/4-20 x 2-1/2" long. Now that I have the motor mounted, I'll mark the locations for the fuel line and throttle push rod remove motor and drill those locations and reinstall motor.

Ken-h

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If your install canisters with a twin, then you'll will just need to open the bottom of the cowl like shown to vent the engine compartment. Stock exhaust or the DA-85, we're going to need to do some more work. Since we went with cans on this one, we're done here.

Ken

Ken-h

My Feedback: (3)

Back to some more pictures.

I've now installed the throttle servo and push rod. You can also see the fender washers and lock-nuts used to mount the motor. I've also drilled a hole for the fuel line and added a rubber grommet. I should add that this type of servo arm is not necessary for the throttle and a good nylon one works fine. This was for mock up as I am still waiting for the throttle servo and cantisters for the 100. Ball links for the motor are 2/56 for 4/40 rod.

Ken

ciressarg

My Feedback: (14)

I got the 85 and can put in mine last night. I had to cut away the intire air scoop that was molded in the cowl. I'm using a rear dump KS so I opened up the bottom of the fuse at the back of the tunel to exit the exhaust and heat. I also removed the center rib in that section. I had to shorten the header to 11" to make it all fit. Now I just have to make a canister mount and the canister install is done. I'll try to take some pictures tonight. It's hard to stop for pictures when there is progress being made. I can't wait to get this airplane flying.

Ken,
How did your cowl alignment come out? mine is pretty good left to right but my engine is a little high 3/32" or so. I double checked my mounting holes and they are spot on.

Eric

Ken-h

My Feedback: (3)

Eric,

I’ll look forward to seeing some pictures. I figured I was going to have to trim that second former for the KS 95 can as well. They are supposed to be working on proper sized canister for the DA-85 but who knows when we’ll see it. On the DA-100, the cowl alignment was fine but I am going to double check when I start mounting the DA-85 and also I’ll check DA’s template for it as well. Trust me, picture taking is the hardest part and is why I am not done yet!

Ken