That I would really like to see!

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Great! Thanks, Lars!

Hello
I know some here in the forum who bought Saito carburetor to 7-35.
I'm just curious how they are going for you ???
Lars

It was a vast improvement on my Seidel ST-540! I do not have the 7-35. -Tom

I think Lars should get the award for the best contributor!

Yesterday I was doing a cleaning of my 7-70 in my Black Horse 91 inch corsair. The engine has over 200 flights on it. I like to keep my engines looking new so I was cleaning and doing a valve adjustment. All the plugs were removed so the crank was easy to turn making valve adjustment easier. The crank turned smoothly and the bearings have zero play. The lifters seemed noisier so I removed one of the brass follower guides. Unfortunately the cam track had galling right at the beginning of the rise of each cam lobe. Now I will see if UMS responds to my E-mail inquiring about sending me a new cam ring.....Cross your fingers! -Tom

Good evening Tom
they usually work well to buy parts from UMS.
They may take some time for bad luck, I usually contact Sripriya on [email protected].

can you image later on your comb plate, I have a new to 7-35
Lars

Thank you Lars! That is my first UMS engine and it is special so I want to keep it in good shape. I will take a picture of it for you when i remove it. I now MUST show you my turbulator for my Saito 200IL

Lars here is the photo of the turbulator in the 200 inline. You need to find a piece of nylon like a servo arm or steerable nose wheel arm that fits tightly in the manifold. You will heat it enough so you can twist it in a spiral and then cut to length. Then press in. You must then run the engine to see how even the cylinders are. It could be worse. Now the tedious task of stopping the engine and rotating the turbulator a very tiny amount. Reinstall and run again. Keep at this until you dial in the manifold so that both cylinders run even!

thanks Tom
now I have little to expimentera with.
Did you press it in until it stops
I see you have a Breather Nipple at the door.
Have you moved or have you two

Yes, pressed in till it stops. I added the nipple to improve after run oil effectiveness.

Lars, when replacing the cam ring, will the engine need to be completely taken apart or just removing the front cover leaving the crankshaft in place be enough? Thanks -Tom

Tom, do you have a loose rear cover and remove the circlip at the crankshaft.
Then it's just to remove the front cover, they are the easiest to make.
Lars

Oh, I think I get it. The master and all slave rods stay in place. The crank, front bearing, cam and idler gear all come out as a unit. The main bearing is left in the main crank case with the cylinders. Do I have that correct?

The correct everything brings out even the main bearing

Thanks a bunch! Have not heard from India yet.

Lars, I cannot believe how easy everything came apart. My after run oil is good stuff! Corrosion was nearly nonexistent. The front section is on my bench and I cannot believe how enormous the crank bearing is. It seems i must tap the crank out and then somehow delicately extract the main bearing to remove the cam ring. Any idea's. Again thank you for your help! I know I sound like a mechanical neophyte. I just want to use good methods. -Tom

Hi Tom, any pictures to show the assemblys and scoring on cam. I have the 7-70 and am getting curious.
thanks

I tried heating the front housing to 275 F. The crank will not tap or press out....eeeek. A friend has a 20 ton press so that should work well. Hopefully a force around 250 pounds will press the crank out.....I hate to hammer on the crank shaft. hard on it and the bearing races.

you are on the right track Tom.
This sketch is from 7-35 it is probably good to watch.

I'm thinking some of the damage to the cam ring!
They can be so that the valves are a bit harsh at the opening !!
If you press the valves so will they open smoothly.
They are not to be something resistance or popping sound

Here is the main crankcase and the front housing. Excellent condition. I discovered one of the followers had not been domed like the others. The galling likely happened a while ago. These areas have been "smoothed over". When rotating the correct direction the followers DO rise smoothly even with pressure on them. The engine is in such good condition otherwise, I would like to properly repair with a new ring.

your engine looks nice on the inside.
what brand of oil you have and how much you mix in.

I run with an oil Fuchs Aero Save.
Mixing up 7% oil.
My looks well like your inside after 125 flying sessions and 18 hours

I use Marvel air tool oil for after run. Two days and no reply from UMS. No call back from Horizon either.....
The fuel I use is Wildcat 18% oil 15% nitro diluted 1:1 with methanol. The 18% oil is 2% castor and 16% synthetic. -Tom

Tom,you will not get buy some parts from the horizon.
It is my experience, they sell just the parts that fine on the website.
It may take some time from UMS, send multiple e-mails, nag little as they wake up.
they may have much to do !! ??
Lars