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Old 02-27-2014, 05:43 PM
  #26251  
blw
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I have my first turboheader on a new 82 that needs its first flight. I've got a new APC 14x4w that Jim suggested but I'm not using it at first.
Old 03-01-2014, 06:50 AM
  #26252  
SrTelemaster150
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Does anyone know where to get rocker cover gaskets W/O purchacing the entire engine specific gasket sets?

There's only 2 sizes for most of the current engines. The FA50 & FA120 versions cover everything from the FA50 on up, singles, twins & radials..

I called Horizon & they said there's a part # for the gaskets alone, but nothing comes up.

Is there another source for these?
Old 03-01-2014, 10:19 AM
  #26253  
ricochet59
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Hobbsy, or anyone: I use the Hobbsy method of break-in on my Saitos (Love it, thanks Hobbsy). It goes thru about three tanks of fuel for the initial break-in (I probably have it too rich). I broke in a new .80, and put it in a H9 Twist. I now have a little over a gallon of Omega 15% trough it. At what point can I start doing full throttle maneuvers, like hovering (if I can) ?? I thought I read somewhere to get 2 gallons through it before doing full throttle for extended periods of time. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanx.
Ricochet
Old 03-01-2014, 11:36 AM
  #26254  
the pope
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I think you would be good to go . A gallon for a 80 size 4 stroke is a fair amount of running . Cheers the pope
Old 03-01-2014, 11:50 AM
  #26255  
jkr_1100
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is that bearing bad? i bet its like a brand new one when this gets replaced.


Originally Posted by Hobbsy
As said, synthetics don't leave anything behind and that's the exact reason that the rust occurs. This is one such bearing from my newly acquired 1.00. I also mentioned before that the 1.00 was bone dry inside.
Old 03-01-2014, 03:44 PM
  #26256  
ricochet59
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Okay, Thanx Pope for the feedback.
Old 03-01-2014, 04:15 PM
  #26257  
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Yes that bearing is very bad.I've seen bearings that don't look anything but new until you stick a finger thru the middle and turn them around,you get a real sandpaper grit type feeling just before it hits the bin!

The reason for most of the bearing changes i've done was because no after run oil was used and it does'nt take long here.About four weeks if you leave the engine to it's own devices.

About to jump on the duke and dodge a few "bikies" on the way to breakfast up in the hills,should be fun.
Old 03-01-2014, 05:36 PM
  #26258  
Hobbsy
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Yes JK, as Pete says, that bearing is bad, even cleaned up and lubed it runs sandy like and makes a whirring sound when spun on my finger. Somebody tried to say that was castor but if you scrape some off it will literally fly to a magnet.

Rico, Saito it is to be considered broken in after 40 minutes.
Old 03-01-2014, 07:18 PM
  #26259  
blw
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Ricochet, you can start full throttle runs pretty much after the initial 10 minute run. Throttle transition reliability, power, smoothness, and holding a long term tuning setting takes about what you've already run.

Hey, Old Fart- why do you think the engines rust without aro? Humidity?

If a bearing feels rough because of castor buildup, it will smooth out as soon as hou run the engine or soak the insides with glow fuel.
Old 03-02-2014, 05:55 AM
  #26260  
ricochet59
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Thanx to all who replied. That's good news. I just want my engines to run for a long time, thus I like to do things the right way. A few years ago I bought a Saito 80 that was supposed to be used. Put it on the test stand and ran it. After a good warm up and then trying to get it tuned, the exhaust started to get dark. Black smoke isn't good. Tried to tune it, but after about 5 minutes it would get black smoke back. I think that the engine wasn't broke in or at least not correctly, and I overheated it or something. One of these days I'll learn how to take it apart and see what happened inside. That's one reason I'm trying to get me engines broken in the right way.

Thanx again,
Ricochet
Old 03-02-2014, 09:03 AM
  #26261  
SrTelemaster150
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I've never seen black smoke from glow fuel.
Old 03-02-2014, 03:05 PM
  #26262  
Rudolph Hart
 
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You just don't go to the right bbq's
Old 03-02-2014, 03:12 PM
  #26263  
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BLW i've read all sorts of reasons for rusty bearings on here over the years and any or all of those could be right.All i know is that if i don't use after run oil within a week or two of the engines last run then i'll lose a set of bearings.Does'nt matter whether it's winter or summer plus i'm about two hundred mtrs from the beach which may not help.Cheers
Old 03-02-2014, 03:54 PM
  #26264  
bob62
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I'm not the most knowledgeable on this site, but I have seen what bad bearings will do. They will make black oil and black smoke,
Old 03-02-2014, 03:58 PM
  #26265  
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Salt laden moist air was the Bain of my existence as a tech in the US navy. Electrical contacts corroded like crazy. Fasteners rusted.
More than have of the faults I had to trouble shoot were merrily corroded contacts.

Ken
Old 03-02-2014, 06:11 PM
  #26266  
N1EDM
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HI everyone,
Along with Ricochet 59's question (post 26256) I was wondering if someone could direct me to Hobbsy's method of break-in. I got dropped from the Club Saito thread for a while and must have missed it. I have to break in a new Saito 56 for my H9 Cub. Going to run it with a 11x6 prop. Or, do you all think that a .56 can handle a 12x6 Zinger?

Thanks in advance for anyone leading me to Hobbsy's break-in method.

Bob
Old 03-03-2014, 06:09 AM
  #26267  
Hobbsy
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10 minutes @ 4,000 rpm with throttle set 1/4 to 1/3rd open.
10 minutes @ 5,000
10 minutes @ 6,000, might need to top off tank here and set needles close to optimum
10 minutes @ 7,000.
Some take shots to full throttle here but I don't fool with that. At each of these rpm the engine will accelerate between 200 and 500 rpm as it loosens up. It usually accelerates the most during the 5,000 rpm run and will end up at about 5,500 after that 10 minute period.

Saito considers the engine broken in after 40 minutes, go fly.. No long periods of full throttle until about a gallon is used. This has worked perfectly for about 30 Saitos which end up having very ABC like compression. Near zero leakage in other words. I use the Saito provided feeler gauge for the valve lash. I figure that the Saito managers and engineers are very well educated and experienced people and would not provide a feeler gauge that would compromise their products longevity. Especially when considering the 3 year warranty. Some people see red at this line of thinking but I only see very long lasting engines.
Old 03-03-2014, 06:19 AM
  #26268  
N1EDM
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Thanks, Hobbsy... I like what you've outlined there...

Bob
Old 03-03-2014, 06:23 AM
  #26269  
Hobbsy
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Hey Bob, we're having some of your weather here today, a blizzard all morning. I won't be running the Saito 1.00 today.
Old 03-03-2014, 08:56 AM
  #26270  
blw
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I pretty much always broke in my Saitos like you do Dave, as it just makes sense. The only thing is that I vary the throttle some and I'm not shy of running them wide open after the first 10 minutes. After that, they go on a model and the model flies. It all comes down to how the engine behaves. Not all Saitos break in the same way. My last engine to break in is an 82, and it sounded broken in and ready to run wide open the minute I started it. It always ran smooth, so it got a good bit of wide open running the after 10 minutes. The roughest was the 125, and it was rough for most of the 40 minute initial break in period. I've just gotta disagree with you on the broken in at 40 minutes part though. The engines have a ways to go yet at just 40 minutes. My is 125 is one of those that W8YE says will take a full 3 gallons to completely break in. I'm still using 15" props on it.

Bob, the 12x6 is a perfect prop for the 56 and sport flying. Probably pretty good for aerobatics too. Mine was on a Kavalier.

Last edited by blw; 03-03-2014 at 08:58 AM.
Old 03-03-2014, 08:57 AM
  #26271  
blw
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PSP- you are club member #817

Welcome aboard!
Old 03-03-2014, 10:59 AM
  #26272  
blw
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Dave, while we have a difference of opinion on a couple of small points of Saito engine break in the discussion made me realize that I only have a 30 and a 170R3 left to break in. They're getting too expensive for me right now. I may have to get the 62 and 115 that I want used. I've always enjoyed breaking them in on the bench too and it will be a while after doing the two I have left.

Last edited by blw; 03-03-2014 at 11:24 AM.
Old 03-03-2014, 01:41 PM
  #26273  
Hobbsy
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Barry, the .62 will run so well that you'll say, why am I bothering with a break in, but it will love you for it. I run a 12x7 on the .62. It turns a 12x6 three blade very well also.
Old 03-03-2014, 03:25 PM
  #26274  
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All this talk about breaking in Saito's . . . I don't know how most of mine were broken in? I bought them used and had no control over what the guy did on the first runs? In the long term, they all do pretty good. I see people at the flying field start a new one up and fly it. Rich low speed needle and everything. Brag about how well it runs - not knowing how much better it could run?

There's a older gentleman that BLW and I are an acquaintance of that cannot hear well. He has a lot of Saito's. He has broken them in on a bench like he has all his life. But not hearing well, about all he can do is watch the smoke. He runs synthetic oil and eventually looses the bearings in every one on down the road after a few years. He runs them (no valves adjusted or anything) until they will not run any more and leaves them up at the Hobby Town for the owner to fix. Some have been run with bad bearings so long that they are not worth while to fix? Breaks your heart but he's happy.

Get out there and enjoy yourself.
Old 03-03-2014, 03:43 PM
  #26275  
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When one is talking about "breaking in an engine" Times at diferent settings is better than tank fulls expended. How big is the tank. I run one Saito 65 in a duration a/c with a 2 oz tank. The new racing device has a 24oz tank. Now Seniotr Tele, I have seen 2 x 4stroke engines run black smoke just before they seld destructed but I must say at no other time and that was a long time ago back in the Malaysian A/line days.

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