acdii

Man I am still mad that I passed on a 300T for $300, brand new in box.

sailr

My Feedback: (25)

That was a heck of a deal! The one I have looks to be in great shape. It belonged to a friend of mine who passed away. I remember well seeing it run a couple years back.
Would you give $250 for it? I will never use it but it sure is pretty to look at. With the flex exhaust setup and the McDaniels dual remote igniter system ($103.95 Sonic Tronics Inc /...) it sure should be worth that.

BTW, it is the single carb version which is MUCH easier to tune and more reliable. I had a twin carb once and it was a total PITA!

acdii

Honestly, $250 is too low. Used ones at swap meets are going for twice that. If I had the cash, I wouldn't hesitate at that price. I would ask $450 as the starting price.

sailr

My Feedback: (25)

Thanks for your honesty. I guess I should list it somewhere.

I'll withdraw my $250 offer for now.

SrTelemaster150

You are wrong about that. The single carb versions are hard to get balanced at idle. If one can wrap their head around the procedure for adjusting the pump, the dual carb versions will allow a much better idle.

While the single carb version might seem easier ti tune, it is near impossible to get it tuned as well as a dual carb version allows.

Another advantage of the dual carb version is that the "pump" allows more flexibility as far as tank location.

Captcrunch44

so can i pick your brain on the 180HC. You put a 180 top end on a 150 case. Was that it? If you don't mind sharing what you did to build such a cool engine? I would like to build one myself. Thanks

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Good Morning Dan, you been alright, I boogered myself up pretty badly after 61 years of safely running glow engines. In the chaos I left my Fromeco tach out in the weather for five weeks. I'm hoping NAPA Electronics Component cleaner will save it.

Captcrunch44

Hey Hobbsy
looks great !! Sure looks a lot better then it did a couple of months ago. Hope your keeping your spirits up it almost healed.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Thanks Cap, I no longer wear any bandages, I managed to put a new rear spring hangar and bracket on my F 150 so I think I'm good to go. I have about 3 tons of wood the cut up and split, it's mostly in 12 to 14 ' logs. My neighbor dropped it off in a Ford L 9000 tandem axle dump truck piled a good 18" above the top of the bed sides.

Captcrunch44

wow
thats a ton or two of wood. To bad I don't leave closer. I got a saw and a strong back and a week mind. I love to give you a hand with that.
If you can replace a spring shackel on any truck that is a job.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

I had to spring for a 12,000 rpm body grinder to grind the rivets off. The fuel tank is only about 2.5" away so no torch although the grinder made enough sparks to equal fire.

SrTelemaster150

This was my 1st prototype and in hindsight, I would not go the same route. (stuffing the 180 crank in the 150 case) It requires a lot of extensive clearance work on the case and the bottom of the rod. I had a comprehensive how to thread posted but Photo Bucket screwed me with their extortion scheme and the thread no longer has pictures.

The same geometry/CR can be had by milling the deck of an FA-180 .032" with the stock 180 piston, or milling the deck .012" and using the FG-57 or FG-84 piston. The FG-57/FG-84 piston alone in an otherwise stock FA-180 is a nice compression boost to > 11:1 CR and is plug and play. No clearance work required. It will turn an 18x8 Dynathrust prop at 8150+ RPM, about 3.2 HP with CDI and 15% glow fuel..

I have a stalled project on the bench right now that will utilize the FA-150 bottom end with either the stock FA-150 rod or an FA-180 rod bushed down to the smaller 150 crank journal size and FA-180 top end. It will net 1.71 cu in compared to the 1.77 cu in FA-180 crank.(yes Margaret, the FA-180 is NOT 1.8 cu in) Not really that much of a difference in displacement.. Compression ratio will vary depending on whether an FA-180 or FG-57/FG-84 piston is utilized. and which rod is employed.

With an FA-150 rod/FG-57 piston. it would be a single cylinder prototype version of an FA-512R3. (methanol version of an FG-84R3)

The FA-180 rod is .052" longer C-C than the FA-150 and the FG-57 piston has a .019 higher crown measured from the C/L of the wrist pin. With an FG-57 piston and FA-180 rd, compression height from the crank journal to the piston crown would be .071" higher than a stock 150 rod/180 piston combo. CR would be about 15:1, but I suspect piston/valve clearance will be an issue.

With the 150 rod/180 piston, it would be a low compression engine, < 8:1 CR.

So using the 150 crank and 180 cylinder starting from low compression going up, the possible scenarios would be.

1. FA-150 rod/FA-180 piston (.019" shorter compression height than stock FG-57/FG-84 < 8:1 CR)
2. FA-150 rod/FG-57 or FG-84 piston (same compression height as FG-57/FG-84 > 8:1 CR))
3. FA-180 rod/FA180 piston (.031" greater compression height than FG_57/FG-84 > 12:1 CR)
4. FA-180 rod/FG-57 or FG-84 piston.(.052" greater compression height than FG-57/FG-84 >15:1 CR)

Post edit in red above.

SrTelemaster150

I know a guy that lives just up the road a few miles that used a grinder to cut off some re-bar. He left to run an errand and came back to find his log home burning to the ground.

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Hobbsy I can relate. I had an old 1959 Triumph sportscar once, the gas tank developed a leak. Good luck getting a replacement too. The bolt holding one of the strap were frozen so I had to chisel through the hold down strap to release the tank. I couldn't even use a grinder do to the leaking fuel. In this car the tank mounted in the area behind the trunk and the Dickie seat back. I haven't a clue how the Brits came up with that name! I talked to several welders who told me there was no way to fix it too dangerous. I ended up at a radiator shop and he came up with the idea of putting it in his tank overnight and then welding a second sheet metal bottom over the existing bottom rather than replacing it. He cut holes for the line fittings coming out the bottom and braised around them to seal the holes. It wasn't pretty but it worked like a champ.

Captcrunch44

Theres a guy here who fixes tanks all the time. He runs a hose from the truck exhaust into the tank and welds away. (Truck running of course)

FlyerInOKC

My Feedback: (6)

Now that's sneaky I wish I had known that trick back then.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

I did it in middle of my yard with the rear wheels on the concrete sidewalk so the Jack Stands would be stable. I can see how that could happen, I had plenty of little red welts on my arms from some larger sparks. A 30" breaker bar would not budge the bolts that were through the spring and the hangar.

A person can fix anything if you set your mind to it and get a little creative and sometimes a lot creative.

blw

My Feedback: (3)

My dad and I used to do it with the tank filled with water.

Dave- you asked about my 1.25 and I thought I had answered. Yes, it is in mint condition bolted to a 90 size pattern plane. Well, it's kinda between a 60 and a 90 size model.

Captcrunch44

Sr.T
thanks for the information i will be digging into that when i get home.

Captcrunch44

Hobbsy
This is gonna sound crazy. But when I was a young man my dad decided to cut a van in half and mate it to the front of a cube van that he had cut the cab Off of. we did all of this in the backyard over a little strip of sidewalk just so we could roll the Jack back and forth. When we were done we had a three door cube van. I wish i had it to day would make a great airplane haller.

SrTelemaster150

There's an easier way. Run a hose from the exhaust pipe of a running engine into the tank. No heed to empty the tank either. The exhaust fumes will purge any oxygen and make combustion impossible. I once watched a welder weld on the tank of a piece of heavy equipment using that method. You can also use the same method to make a gas tank safe to weld on.

SrTelemaster150

Go back and check my latest edits to the post. The deck reductions are .032" instead of .052" and .012" instead of .032". On the original prototype with the 150 case which is .052" shorter deck then the 180, I had to add .020" shims from C&H Ignitions under the cylinder to get adequate piston/valve clearance.

the Wasp

My Feedback: (1)

edited;
hey guys, I think my 4*60 will look cool with a Saito in it when I'm done bashing it into a 30s era racer ?? I have moved the cockpit back, and I plain to shorten the wing to 65 inches and round the tips, and round the tail feathers, the fuse will be club yellow with some red, the top of the wing and tail in large yellow and black checker,, notice how I squared the top of the front deck and shorten the cockpit,, I didn't want to set the cockpit so far back, but i had to because the servo tray was in the way,,

what you think guys ??

Jim

Captcrunch44

Cool idea i am thinking of something like this out of an asto hog this winter.

Rudolph Hart

Okc the brits called it a dickie seat and in american english it's called a rumble seat,don't let your imagination run away with you.It's also called a mother in law seat hence it's fully exposed to the airstream rear most position on the vehicle,wind noise is your friend in convertibles and motorcycles.Was up in the hills riding the duke two sundays ago and stopped at a good morning coffee shop.There was a guy in a leather jacket standing in front of me in the coffee line and i noticed a very small square patch sown on the back of his collar.It said 'scream if you want to go faster'