Welcome to Club SAITO !
Senior Member
Promised pictures.
Rascal 110 right flap servo, left below.
It takes up a lot of room.
Rascal 110 right flap servo, left below.
It takes up a lot of room.
Last edited by 1200SportsterRider; 01-25-2021 at 05:45 AM. Reason: Add content.
My Feedback: (6)
Yes it does take up a lot of room! Beautiful airplane though. I built the Rascal C in a white and transparent green color scheme. It looked really good with gold pen stripes on the wheel pants and the cockpit. Instructions said to use gray paper to cover the interior I used green scrap book paper instead.
Unless of course the pushrod threads are not great to begin with. Just when I thought the plane was ready to fly, taxing over grass I lost rudder. Yeah, those jam nuts didn't do much when the cleavis just popped right off the shaft! I replaced all the links with new ones with good threads.
Geez!
Of course, once the threads get to that point, just a matter of time. The mission is prevention.
Not a bandaid to make up for installing junk to begin with. LOL!
Of course, once the threads get to that point, just a matter of time. The mission is prevention.
Not a bandaid to make up for installing junk to begin with. LOL!
Last edited by Jesse Open; 01-25-2021 at 10:00 AM.
Yeah, not using the crap hardware included with the ARF in the first place prevents it totally. They seemed to be ok, I just didn't do a jerk test like I should have to see if they really are solidly connected. Thankfully it happened on the ground and not in the air.
I use bolt-thru ball links on 60 size and up, they're pretty tough. No need to worry about fretting threads, no nut needed, no silicone tubing needed, less friction. Costs more and slightly heavier.
Last edited by Glowgeek; 01-25-2021 at 10:48 AM.
I use the bolt thru at times too, but not very often. Some brands are better than others but they too have been known to fail. As for "friction" any differences are slim but a steel pin in a nil clearance nylon hole, by nature has less inherent friction than a ball and socket. I always place a washer between the ball top and the retaining screw head. Cheap insurance against their most common failure mode.
Of course none of that has a single thing to do with the original jam nut observation.
With metal to metal clevis to rod, a simple jam nut is in order for reasons given.
Of course none of that has a single thing to do with the original jam nut observation.
With metal to metal clevis to rod, a simple jam nut is in order for reasons given.
My Feedback: (3)
Hey Glowgeek thanks for the engine! The thing (150) looks brand new and feels like it too And now I have enough packing material for next Christmas as well. LOL
My Feedback: (6)
I got a box of hardware from a buddy doing R/C estate sales with a bunch of bolt thru 2-56 ball links I will need to give them a try on my next build. I love the regular ball links for throttle arm connections so may as try some of the bolt thru for servo connections. Do you use them at both ends or just the one end?
I use the bolt thru at times too, but not very often. Some brands are better than others but they too have been known to fail. As for "friction" any differences are slim but a steel pin in a nil clearance nylon hole, by nature has less inherent friction than a ball and socket. I always place a washer between the ball top and the retaining screw head. Cheap insurance against their most common failure mode.
Of course none of that has a single thing to do with the original jam nut observation.
With metal to metal clevis to rod, a simple jam nut is in order for reasons given.
Of course none of that has a single thing to do with the original jam nut observation.
With metal to metal clevis to rod, a simple jam nut is in order for reasons given.
I use blue loctite for metal/metal. Anything that keeps vibrations from wearing the two metal parts against each other seems to work. Good quality rods and clevises are important too. I file13 the arf stuff.
Good tip on the use of the washer to keep the link from slipping off in the event of failure.
Last edited by Glowgeek; 01-25-2021 at 07:02 PM.
I got a box of hardware from a buddy doing R/C estate sales with a bunch of bolt thru 2-56 ball links I will need to give them a try on my next build. I love the regular ball links for throttle arm connections so may as try some of the bolt thru for servo connections. Do you use them at both ends or just the one end?
My Feedback: (1)
I have used the Heli type ball links on planes, they work slick, pop off adjust and pop on, off you go. I have the tool too.
if you want to talk about something I dislike it's the servo mounting like on the plane above, I bought 4 planes in the last 3 years and all have it. I dislike it because of the long servo arms you must use. cause the longer the arm the lower your servo resolution is. that Worlds Model P-40 flew like crap, you move the stick and the plane would not respond, then it would over respond in a flash. I could never stay ahead of the plane! to add to that my friend that flew it is a fine pilot and told me to add more Expo, and then more, and then more. the Expo was up to 50%. then I remembered the link below and thought back to my Helis. I cut the slots on the servo covers wider, swapped out the long servo arms for shorter servo arms. we will see how it flies this coming summer
Jim
Resolution.pdf
if you want to talk about something I dislike it's the servo mounting like on the plane above, I bought 4 planes in the last 3 years and all have it. I dislike it because of the long servo arms you must use. cause the longer the arm the lower your servo resolution is. that Worlds Model P-40 flew like crap, you move the stick and the plane would not respond, then it would over respond in a flash. I could never stay ahead of the plane! to add to that my friend that flew it is a fine pilot and told me to add more Expo, and then more, and then more. the Expo was up to 50%. then I remembered the link below and thought back to my Helis. I cut the slots on the servo covers wider, swapped out the long servo arms for shorter servo arms. we will see how it flies this coming summer
Jim
Resolution.pdf
Last edited by the Wasp; 01-25-2021 at 07:37 PM.
A metal clevis in a nylon control horn is very low friction, if everything is in perfect alignment.
I use blue loctite for metal/metal. Anything that keeps vibrations from wearing the two metal parts against each other seems to work. Good quality rods and clevises are important too. I file13 the arf stuff.
Good tip on the use of the washer to keep the link from slipping off in the event of failure.
I use blue loctite for metal/metal. Anything that keeps vibrations from wearing the two metal parts against each other seems to work. Good quality rods and clevises are important too. I file13 the arf stuff.
Good tip on the use of the washer to keep the link from slipping off in the event of failure.
That's a very strong and safe clevis set up. Watch out though, I've heard those little clevis clips are bad about putting runs in your panty hose.
Last edited by Glowgeek; 01-26-2021 at 02:50 AM.
Senior Member
Yes it does take up a lot of room! Beautiful airplane though. I built the Rascal C in a white and transparent green color scheme. It looked really good with gold pen stripes on the wheel pants and the cockpit. Instructions said to use gray paper to cover the interior I used green scrap book paper instead.
Be careful talking about green around the OZ Pete, we don't want him to go on a Roo Ale drinking binge.
My Consultation with the Urologist yesterday did not go well, I face a several hours battery of tests Thursday. Of the twelve biopsy samples taken six are cancerous. Thursday's test will determine whether they are fast or slow.
Last edited by 1200SportsterRider; 01-26-2021 at 02:55 AM. Reason: Add content.
My Feedback: (2)
1200SportsRider,
Sorry to hear the news... but take heart. My brother had a similar issue had radiation therapy. He's clean as a whistle now.... Good luck to you!
Sorry to hear the news... but take heart. My brother had a similar issue had radiation therapy. He's clean as a whistle now.... Good luck to you!
The following users liked this post:
flyingagin (01-26-2021)
Being a belt ans suspenders area, I do use both the stop nuts and the Loctite. The nuts do however provide a solid backing and nicely square up the joint. Most clevis makers supply the clevises with those nuts and intend them to be used. Free floating threads, even with Loctite is not a common practice.
Dave, Sorry to hear the news. I was there 10 years ago. Been quite a battle.Here we are though. Everything is working despite what your buddy CF thinks.Every PSA test since has been a zero.I chose the DaVinci surgery. If you choose that route, get a surgeon with a LOT of experience.
Last edited by Jesse Open; 01-26-2021 at 06:55 AM.
My Feedback: (6)
Be careful talking about green around the OZ Pete, we don't want him to go on a Roo Ale drinking binge.
My Consultation with the Urologist yesterday did not go well, I face a several hours battery of tests Thursday. Of the twelve biopsy samples taken six are cancerous. Thursday's test will determine whether they are fast or slow.
My Consultation with the Urologist yesterday did not go well, I face a several hours battery of tests Thursday. Of the twelve biopsy samples taken six are cancerous. Thursday's test will determine whether they are fast or slow.
My Feedback: (6)
No, actually he did quite well. t was kind of funny he was a retire Missouri Synod Pastor who ran into one of his old seminary students who was an ELCA Bishop, who talked him to switching synods and start preaching again. He preached another ten years after the cancer treatment.