RVM

I just ordered the parts and some props.

I've been flying the plane with the washer as is, since I just now noticed it. Other than a bit more vibration, I don't think it's hurting anything (except for maybe the airframe hah). Do you think there would be any issues with flying the engine a bit more until I get the parts in?

freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

If the prop is wobbling, I wouldn't fly it, may be rough on the bearings, and probably foam the fuel from the vibration, making it run funny too.

Darklotus

My Feedback: (4)

Pit-Viper 1

My Feedback: (12)

If all you did was nose it over you probably just need to replace your prop as it is more than likely out of balance now. Replace it and be sure it is balanced properly before you order alot of stuff you may not need. If your prop is wobbling,"DON'T RUN IT". It's not worth taking the chance with your motor or the likelyhood you will throw the prop or it will come apart from that kind of vibration. Could end up hurting yourself or someone else for that matter..

My freind was flying a WM P-51 .40 W/ Saito .72 inverted abut 20ft off the runway at full throttle when he pulled the stick the wrong way and it went straight into the ground. It hit so hard that there wasn't a piece larger than about 6" long of the plane. They replaced bearings, valve covers, pushrods, and a couple other things but the crank was fine. So I wouldn't think that a simple nose over would bend the crank.


Shane

TimC

RVM, if you haven't bought the battery terminal puller yet, don't do it. I just returned from NAPA with a K-D brand puller. It won't work at all on a Saito .82 and would need extensive grinding before I would try to use it on a small engine. It would be better to get a cheapo bearing separator and puller from Harbor Freight. Here is a shot of my .82 and the terminal puller. The forcing screw is all the way out and the jaws are still 1/2" away from the groove in the drive washer.

RVM

TimC, Well, I just picked one up from AutoZone. If it doesn't fit I'll bring it back.

Viper, the prop is balanced. After the nose over I put it on my balancer and it's just fine. It just had a little dirt on it, which I wiped off. I triple-checked the crankshaft last night, and my eyeballs are telling me it's perfectly true. The drive washer is definitely the only wobbly part. I've put about 10 flights on the plane since that noseover, so I've been flying it alright since, but I'm not going to put it back in the air until I replace the part.


Quick question: I've got a cowled installation with the vent line running out the bottom of the cowl next to the muffler. I've always put after run into the vent by turn the engine over while holding a bottle of after run over the engine. The air would exchange out for oil after every rotation. I'm having a much harder time getting afterrun in now that the vent line is below the engine. Any ideas how to get afterrun in without having the vent line coming out the top of the cowl?

Thanks!

freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

I never use after run oil on my Saito's. With a 2 stroke, you have a slight chance of actually getting the oil into the bearings, but with the Saito's, no way... The bearings in the Saito's only get oiled by the blowby (whatever fuel gets by the ring), so using after run oil is a total waste of time. Boca econo bearings are $11.00 a set roughly, and I get 2 years out of a set, on average. It only takes an hour to replace the bearings.

JNorton

My Feedback: (2)

I just put my plane in a cradle and turn it upside down.
John

Ernie Misner

Use an aersol can of 2 stroke fogger oil from the marina or corrosion-x. The pressure from the can forces it into the crankcase.

Ernie

freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

I would think, that to be sure you got the oil into the bearings, thru the vent tube, you would have to fill it. My main concern is the piston and cylinder, so when I can remember to do it, I squirt some AR oil into the fuel line with the throttle open, then crank the engine over by hand. At least the cylinder is protected a little then. Usually I just turn each engine over by hand a few times every day. I've been taught that if you do that, the fuel can't etch the bearings as easily. So far, i've had no problem's with any of my engines, other than bearings about every 2 years, and I fly almost every day it doesn't rain.

RVM

I haven't been using after run for awhile, and I broke down my Saito .91 and found no evidence of rust or corrosion. I do, however, use a bit of castor oil, and lately have been using Omega which has castor as well.


I just got the driver washer thingie off. I used a 3 prong, 2 ton puller from Autozone. It took quite a bit of grinding with a dremel to make the teeth fit the washer, then I had to take metal wire and a bar clamp to keep it from popping out of the groove. The crankshaft looks perfectly straight, and the human eye can see down to about .0001". Based on the amount of wobble in the washer (about a .5mm difference) I should definitely be able to see any warps in the crank, and I don't.

freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

Looks like you only have a $10.00 problem then. I've never heard of anyone warping or bending a drive collet before.

RVM

I have heard of it happening before. I think what happened is the spinner took most of the impact and the backplate put force onto the driver collet. I'm going to check everything again after I put the new collet on, but I am 99.99% sure the crank is straight.

Should I do anything to make sure the new collet is seated properly? I'm thinking that simply tightening down a prop onto it could allow for the collet to be off a bit.

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Here is one half of my setup for a Hangar 9 Dual Ace. It will have two Saito .62a's, I chose Graupner 12x7s and Graupner backplateless spinners. I don't have the 2nd .62 yet. A few minutes ago the .62a turned the Graupner 12x7 at 10,100 rpm on WildCat 15% fuel.
Jim, I'm ready for a couple of TurboHeaders for the .62a's.

freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

I have never done anything special. I just use the prop, washer, and nut to press em on. Maybe the old one is still ok... Now you have the puller, try reinstalling it and see if it winds up straight. It just might...

davewallace

My Feedback: (29)

Hi,
Bearings usually go bad when the engine sets for a long time. Running the engine flushes out the bearings. Of course you can wear them out, if you run alot. I have to replace the bearings in two of mine. One because I let it setup for a while and the other was purchase with bad bearings. If you squirt some penitrating oil into the crankcase through the breather fitting and place the engine prop down, the oil will drain into the bearings and disolve any acid buildup before it causes damage. Stock Saito bearings have been known to be of poor quality on some production runs. Replacemnt bearings last a lot longer.

Dave

freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

I used to buy the stainless steel bearings, but am giving the econo's a try now, and so far im happy with them. I was dissappointed when I learned that the stainless steel bearings are only plated, not solid stainless steel. The $11.00 bearings seem to be great so far !

RC Specialties

Hobbsy,

The current cross reference chart does not show the 62a. What is the exhaust thread size, 10mm? I might be able to get the machinist to squeeze them in on the next run. It would have to use the baffle and maybe a spacer. I'll compute the sizes when they are ready. The prototype of the 1.80 size will be ready this week.

Jim

chivas

I'm probably revisting an old topic regarding a Saito 100 cam installation. I had a bright idea that I wanted to see what was in the cam compartment. Then I had to figure out how to reassable it. I've read the old threads that I could find and put it back together. It will run, but doesn't seem to be behaving properly. I've double checked my fuel lines, checked the glow plug, done the normal stuff to adjust the high and low needles, but it still doesn't like to idle well (the high end runs fine). At idle, it seems to run rough almost know matter how the low end needle is adjusted (lean or rich).

The question is this, if the cam is off by only one tooth, would the engine run at all? Or would it exhibit the symptoms I've described?

I'm going to keep working on the trim adjustments, but I wanted to put this possibility to rest if possible.

Richard

Birman

I received a TurboHeader today from Jim at JRC Specialties. What a beautiful piece of craftsmanship!!!

TimC

freeonthree, this is the first I've ever heard of stainless plated bearings. It would seem the plating process would not be compatible with bearing manufacture. Could you provide a source for this information?

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Jim, I'm sure it's 10mm, I'll check tomorrow to be sure. Birman, is yours going onto a 1.00?

RC Specialties

Thank you Birman. I am glad you are pleased!!!!

Jim

freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

Got that straight from Boca Bearing on the phone. He may have said there was some stainless in the metal, rather than plated, I can't remember, but he told me they were not true stainless steel.

freeonthree

My Feedback: (1)

Yes, it will not run correctly. I use a razor blade to hold the gear until the cover is all the way down, works every time. Seems to align the dot best when you hold the blade in your right hand (engine facing toward you), and I stick the gasket to the cam cover with oil first.