rajul

My Feedback: (58)

APC 14x4W is the ticket. You want the idle at 2200-2300 before you fly. Things will be smoother after 1-2 gallons.

RVM

Which prop are you getting 9500rpm with? On my .82 with an APC 14x4w I'm pulling around 10700 RPM or so with the needle really rich and about 46oz of fuel run through it (20%nitro). I figure with it leaned a bit I should be getting 11k. I'm switching to an APC 15x4w to load the engine more as I don't like playing with my Saitos over 10k RPM really.

You should have a lower idle than that. Mine idled at 2000 with just one tank through it at factory needles. Make sure you've got that low-end set properly. It seems that a lot of the people with vibration problems from Saitos are still running the idle too rich.

Make sure the prop you are using is well-balanced. It should not be vibrating so much you can't adjust the needle while it is running. Mine doesn't. I would look to the mount and make sure that it is secure. Beyond that the only thing I can think of is the fact that it is a profile, and they aren't known for vibration dampening.

If I were you I would go ahead and fly it if everything I mentioned checks out, and just see if the vibrations come down as you break the engine in and play with the needles.

alpal

Hi Guys
I have a Saito 300 TD in a 30 lb 1:5 scale Focke Wulf. (a SisT model see http://www.rcscalebuilder.com/forum/...?TID=7357&PN=1 if you are interested further)
I don't know how to post an image on this forum, but it's the most detailed ARF? on the planet!
Anyway, it flies with plenty of power, although I have only flown it twice so far. The scale exhaust is awesome, oil and smoke where it should be!!
Now my Friend is starting to put one together too, but is thinking of putting a Saito 5 cylinder in his. I see that the weight would help (I have 1.7Kg lead in the nose ring for ballast) I se the specs are that the 5 Cylinder puts our 3.8 Hp and mine is 4.7 Hp.
Any comments? Have any of you used the 5 cylinder? You know what it's like, feedback is the best thing to help decide!
Hoping for response. Alex.[img][/img][img][/img]

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

You need to be a member of R/C Scale Builder to get on that site

Kmot

My Feedback: (24)

alpal: Beautiful!! [sm=thumbup.gif]

RVM

Check out my regulator set up. The length of the line between the regulator and the carb is about 2.5" (5cm). It ran great like this on the bench, so I'm hoping all should be well on the plane.

Is there anything I could/should do to improve the set up?

GunMoney

My Feedback: (2)

W8ye - Thanks for the pics and info on the Saito pump and check valves. I do intend to use an Iron Bay regulator, but I'm wondering how to use it. Should I use the check valves to power the pump. Think I will have to use fair amount of pressure. I was wondering if the check valves are used in place of a couple of the rear engine case bolts? Don't think so, but wonder why none of the cases are tapped for the check valves

Thanks for the input!!!

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Use this device from Saito on the crankcase vent. Get a Formost check valve from Tower to use between the Saito adjusting needle and the tank vent. I'll try to come back with a picture of the set up. I thought I had it but don't see it right now. (Found it)

Here's the Formost valve http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXG850&P=7

rajul

My Feedback: (58)

Looks like Webra is offering a nitro and gas regulator as well http://www.webra-austria.at/motor.ph...SORIES&lang=EN Trying to find out the pricing and other details.

GunMoney

My Feedback: (2)

I think it will take a lot of the "exhale" pressure to develope the tank pressure I need. I'm concerned that the restricted vent hose will not let the engine breath properly.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Some Guys just use the muffler line but they put a check valve in the line to the tank

T28RON

My Feedback: (32)

Im have a Saito FA 120 that runs great however when it is on idle it smokes like crazy. I have adjusted the air inlet screw all the way in and at differant adjustments it still smokes bad. The transition is good no matter where I set the (for lack of a better word) air inlet screw. Any suggestions. Tks.

Ron

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

All Saitos are not created equal. I had a 91 that did this when I put a new carb body on it. I changed the low speed screw and had a new needle valve in it. The only thing old was the barrel. I replaced the broken spray bar in the old body and put it back on the engine and you could then adjust the low speed correctly.

Rush7

My Feedback: (74)

I need to change the collet and drive flange on my Saito 91. Will these just pull off or will I have to use some type of puller on it. It seems to be pressed on the crank pretty tight and I pryed on it a little and it didnt seem to want to move.
Any help would be great.
Thanks

T28RON

My Feedback: (32)

Tks. I will try that

Ron

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Most of the time it takes something with some A S S to it to get them off a Saito.

I use a bearing separator to grip the drive flange and then a real gear puller to pull the separator off. Sometimes this will not get the job done and you have to heat up the drive collar. I've been successful with a Monocoat gun doing this. It will POP loose with a big bang.

rajul

My Feedback: (58)

I wonder if Saito manufactures their own puller?

dougwill

Does anyone have the part numbers for bearings for a Saito 80? Is RC_Bearings.com the best source for bearings? I think I'll go with Bill's advice and use sealed bearings on front and ceramic unsealed on rear.


Doug

Jerryballs

My Feedback: (19)

Gentlemen, You need a "search feature" within Club Saito! So much great information here. I have a Saito in just about everything...a 91,100, 150, 180, and now my question...In a Top Flite 2.1 corsair at 20lbs. with no engine, given the choice would you use the 220 or 300T? Thanks for any thoughts.

blw

My Feedback: (3)

Jerry,

The 220 puts out 3.5 hp according to Saito, and it weighs 2.4 lbs. The 300T weighs about 3.9 lbs and puts out more hp at 4.7.

So, you are looking at 1.5 extra pounds of wing loading for that extra horsepower the 300T has.

N1EDM

My Feedback: (2)

W8YE,

Where did you get that bearing separator? I could use one of those too.

Thanks,

Bob

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

I actually have several. One came from an Carquest auto store in Auburn Alabama. One came from Bearing Distributors in Mansfield OH and the other came from The NAPA store in Lexington OH

You are generally looking for the smaller ones

sundancer007

I have a saito 125. I use 20/20 YS FUEL. 16x4w prop in a funtana 100x. A good friend of mine owns the same set up. The problem im having is this:: his engine tachs a approx 9900 rpm same set up. Mine tachs a 8500 no matter how lean I run it and its sounds like valve is tapping. Im very familiar with valve lash, break in, fuel line cracks, you name it. I noticed the exhaust valve is sticking from carbon build up. I pulled the cyclinder and valve , cleaned with scotch brite and tested the engine again. The bearings are clean, rust free, 3 gallons have run through the engine so far. But at max throttle position, it sounds like pinging and the rpm is limited. So what is up!! Any suggetions. Compression is excellent, no bent pushrods, clean and well maintained. I know how to accuratly time the camshaft, owned many. Im puzzled!!

JettPilot

My Feedback: (6)

Where did you get those pullers ???

JettPilot

Bone

I recently used a 3 jaw puller on the drive collar of my Saito 65. That combined with heat from my paint stripper gun @ temp of 300C worked wonders. And yes, there was a LOUD bang. Rather disconcerting at the time [&:]