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ORIGINAL: Ed Cregger N2ECW
Omega 15% fuel is just fine @ $22 a gallon.
Ed Cregger
Omega 15% fuel is just fine @ $22 a gallon.
Ed Cregger
Merry Christmas,
Randy Compton
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ORIGINAL: Old Fart
Go to dick smiths and get a set of 'computer spanners' goes from 1.5 mil to 7 in a ten or twelve spanner set,good luck and cheers
Go to dick smiths and get a set of 'computer spanners' goes from 1.5 mil to 7 in a ten or twelve spanner set,good luck and cheers
RC Specialties, Sent you a pm.
Regards
Gil
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ORIGINAL: VF84sluggo
Talked to my LHS today. He has Wildcat Heli, so I asked if he could get some Premium Extra in his next order. He launched into some long explanation about stocking fuel, order size, sales volumes, yada yada yada...bottom line, if I want Wildcat Premium Extra he'll order it but I'm going to have to buy a case.
Tried to find it online, but looks like Tower Hobbies is the only gallon-size dealer. $99/case, + $20 hazmat shipping (regular shipping rate waived). Ouch. $30/gallon, when Omega 15% is $22/gallon incl tax.
Talked to my LHS today. He has Wildcat Heli, so I asked if he could get some Premium Extra in his next order. He launched into some long explanation about stocking fuel, order size, sales volumes, yada yada yada...bottom line, if I want Wildcat Premium Extra he'll order it but I'm going to have to buy a case.
Tried to find it online, but looks like Tower Hobbies is the only gallon-size dealer. $99/case, + $20 hazmat shipping (regular shipping rate waived). Ouch. $30/gallon, when Omega 15% is $22/gallon incl tax.
Fuel is the last item left that gives me a reason to go there, so when I go I make it worth my time and their's.
It is not uncommon for me to buy four cases and if the price is right I will buy more. It does not spoil and so far I have eventually used every drop of it.
Buying one case of 'special order' fuel seems very reasonable to me.

w8ye,
Thanks so much for the info the saito 65 is alive again!!!!!
I dont know how much it was off because i got in a hurry
and just took it apart.When i got it back together and adjusted the
valves she fired rite up! man i love that sound! The prop is still
a 11/9 ill try that again.I made a mark on the prop hub for
top dead and used the lifter hole with an allen wrench in it
and had no problems.once again thanks. how do i become
a member of club saito?
Thanks,
Ty
Thanks so much for the info the saito 65 is alive again!!!!!
I dont know how much it was off because i got in a hurry
and just took it apart.When i got it back together and adjusted the
valves she fired rite up! man i love that sound! The prop is still
a 11/9 ill try that again.I made a mark on the prop hub for
top dead and used the lifter hole with an allen wrench in it
and had no problems.once again thanks. how do i become
a member of club saito?
Thanks,
Ty


My Feedback: (16)

Ty,
We are all glad you got it going.
BLW takes care of the membership. If he doesn't get back to you within the next few days PM one of us and we'll try to get you set up.
We are all glad you got it going.
BLW takes care of the membership. If he doesn't get back to you within the next few days PM one of us and we'll try to get you set up.

My Feedback: (55)

ORIGINAL: chashint
Buying one case of 'special order' fuel seems very reasonable to me.
Buying one case of 'special order' fuel seems very reasonable to me.

My Feedback: (3)

ORIGINAL: VF84sluggo
What's the proper way to store fuel? I may just go ahead and get a case. What the heck, on less thing I'll need to worry about a trip to the LHS for.
What's the proper way to store fuel? I may just go ahead and get a case. What the heck, on less thing I'll need to worry about a trip to the LHS for.
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Hey Sluggo ,
Saw you were looking at Wildcat and thought I'd put my 2 cents worth in . I started with Wildcat 2 years ago when I got back into the hobby . Was using a grape colored 25% Heli fuel for a Saito 82 . After I moved to a diff. town I could no longer find the same stuff again . So I went to the red 25% with 18% oil and some castor in it . Didn't really notice too many problems with it but then downgraded to 15% with 18% oil . It seems the further down the Wildcat ladder I went the more problems I started having with tuning motors. The last jug of WC I bought was by mistake . 15% with 16% oil . This stuff gave me major headaches . I thought I had lost my ability to tune a motor[>:]. That was it. Especially after a deadstick stall with my brand new , 7 flights on it , Aeroworks edge540t .
I now use PowerMaster 15% 18oil in my 2-stokes and PowerMaster 25% 18% SYNTH. IN MY 4-BANGERS . I might be okay if I went back to the heli fuel Wildcat makes but I'm not taking a chance . PowerMaster comes in a sealed metal container too which improves longevity . I will not go cheap any longer for fuel . PM also smells awesome like the grape colored heli fuel I was oncw able to get .
P.S. Did I say I loved my Saito 82 ???????
Saw you were looking at Wildcat and thought I'd put my 2 cents worth in . I started with Wildcat 2 years ago when I got back into the hobby . Was using a grape colored 25% Heli fuel for a Saito 82 . After I moved to a diff. town I could no longer find the same stuff again . So I went to the red 25% with 18% oil and some castor in it . Didn't really notice too many problems with it but then downgraded to 15% with 18% oil . It seems the further down the Wildcat ladder I went the more problems I started having with tuning motors. The last jug of WC I bought was by mistake . 15% with 16% oil . This stuff gave me major headaches . I thought I had lost my ability to tune a motor[>:]. That was it. Especially after a deadstick stall with my brand new , 7 flights on it , Aeroworks edge540t .
I now use PowerMaster 15% 18oil in my 2-stokes and PowerMaster 25% 18% SYNTH. IN MY 4-BANGERS . I might be okay if I went back to the heli fuel Wildcat makes but I'm not taking a chance . PowerMaster comes in a sealed metal container too which improves longevity . I will not go cheap any longer for fuel . PM also smells awesome like the grape colored heli fuel I was oncw able to get .
P.S. Did I say I loved my Saito 82 ???????
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My Feedback: (14)

Which fuel are you going to switch to when your engine deadsticks while burning Powermaster fuel? You'd better think this one out before it happens, because it will.
Ed Cregger
Ed Cregger
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mchicken................... I don't mean to be rude, but I cannot believe your written comments mate. I think you should edit your comments and think why you were having dead sticks. I'm a user of Power Master Heli 15/20 synthetic on all my Saitos 4/s. Dead sticks most of the time has to do with tuning.
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Can't say I will never have a deadstick again . That kind of stuff is going to happen once in a while . But when I have problems with 3 motors that all ran fine before and won't tune worth a darn all of a sudden logic will eventually set in . I have had many problems in the last 4-5 months . In the first plane I had issues with I even went through and replaced the tank , lines , clunk , and filter . I was really feeling stupid when it came to tuning . I'm sure we all have had problems with something in life where we know what we are doing and still can't get it right because we overlooked the obvious . Bad fuel in my case . I have been out 3 times flying since I changed fuel . No issues . It could have been some jugs left on the shelf too long or a bad batch .
To say I will never have a deadstick again would be nothing but arrogant . But running good fuel will give me the best odds . I haven't flown long enough to had ever gotten bad fuel until now and am just trying to pass on advice to those who want to save a few bucks on different fuel when what they have works fine .
To say I will never have a deadstick again would be nothing but arrogant . But running good fuel will give me the best odds . I haven't flown long enough to had ever gotten bad fuel until now and am just trying to pass on advice to those who want to save a few bucks on different fuel when what they have works fine .
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When you are having troubles with an engine you know is good, borrow a tank of fuel from a buddy and see if it clears up. Sometimes does wonders!! Could be as simple as water in the fuel and that will drive you nuts!!!
L.
L.

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McChicken, you're full of it, I have used WildCat 10% and 15% with 18% lube for about 16 years. Last year I got 6 gallons of PM 15% with 18% lube and it ran identically to the WildCat. The WildCat with 16% lube is actually easier to tune that the 18% lube but not recommended except in RCV engines. Simply put, your tuning issues weren't your fuel.
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ORIGINAL: Hobbsy
McChicken, you're full of it, I have used WildCat 10% and 15% with 18% lube for about 16 years. Last year I got 6 gallons of PM 15% with 18% lube and it ran identically to the WildCat. The WildCat with 16% lube is actually easier to tune that the 18% lube but not recommended except in RCV engines. Simply put, your tuning issues weren't your fuel.
McChicken, you're full of it, I have used WildCat 10% and 15% with 18% lube for about 16 years. Last year I got 6 gallons of PM 15% with 18% lube and it ran identically to the WildCat. The WildCat with 16% lube is actually easier to tune that the 18% lube but not recommended except in RCV engines. Simply put, your tuning issues weren't your fuel.
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ORIGINAL: McChiken
You must be real stupid or you just don't fully read what I wrote . I guess you never got anything that was junk . I did . this last jug . Give me your address and ill give it to you so you can flush the ignorance outa your system . I'm done with you d?ckh*ads at RCU . You all must not be American . We have a right to voice our own opinion in this country . We'll see how well you tune motors after trying to run this crap.
ORIGINAL: Hobbsy
McChicken, you're full of it, I have used WildCat 10% and 15% with 18% lube for about 16 years. Last year I got 6 gallons of PM 15% with 18% lube and it ran identically to the WildCat. The WildCat with 16% lube is actually easier to tune that the 18% lube but not recommended except in RCV engines. Simply put, your tuning issues weren't your fuel.
McChicken, you're full of it, I have used WildCat 10% and 15% with 18% lube for about 16 years. Last year I got 6 gallons of PM 15% with 18% lube and it ran identically to the WildCat. The WildCat with 16% lube is actually easier to tune that the 18% lube but not recommended except in RCV engines. Simply put, your tuning issues weren't your fuel.
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My Feedback: (14)

ORIGINAL: McChiken
Can't say I will never have a deadstick again . That kind of stuff is going to happen once in a while . But when I have problems with 3 motors that all ran fine before and won't tune worth a darn all of a sudden logic will eventually set in . I have had many problems in the last 4-5 months . In the first plane I had issues with I even went through and replaced the tank , lines , clunk , and filter . I was really feeling stupid when it came to tuning . I'm sure we all have had problems with something in life where we know what we are doing and still can't get it right because we overlooked the obvious . Bad fuel in my case . I have been out 3 times flying since I changed fuel . No issues . It could have been some jugs left on the shelf too long or a bad batch .
To say I will never have a deadstick again would be nothing but arrogant . But running good fuel will give me the best odds . I haven't flown long enough to had ever gotten bad fuel until now and am just trying to pass on advice to those who want to save a few bucks on different fuel when what they have works fine .
Can't say I will never have a deadstick again . That kind of stuff is going to happen once in a while . But when I have problems with 3 motors that all ran fine before and won't tune worth a darn all of a sudden logic will eventually set in . I have had many problems in the last 4-5 months . In the first plane I had issues with I even went through and replaced the tank , lines , clunk , and filter . I was really feeling stupid when it came to tuning . I'm sure we all have had problems with something in life where we know what we are doing and still can't get it right because we overlooked the obvious . Bad fuel in my case . I have been out 3 times flying since I changed fuel . No issues . It could have been some jugs left on the shelf too long or a bad batch .
To say I will never have a deadstick again would be nothing but arrogant . But running good fuel will give me the best odds . I haven't flown long enough to had ever gotten bad fuel until now and am just trying to pass on advice to those who want to save a few bucks on different fuel when what they have works fine .
It wasn't my intention to embarrass you or to put you on the spot. I apologize if I did.
I was trying to point out, because of my previous success with Wildcat Fuels, that your "problem" most likely wasn't related to the brand of fuel that you were using.
However, while unlikely, it is possible that a batch or so of fuel, or specific contents, can be out of spec from time to time, regardless of which manufacturer sells it and puts their name on it. Our hobby is not populated all that well and our fuel suppliers are probably (just a W.A.G. on my part) not on the top of the seller's list for buying their ingredients.
Glow engines are odd birds. Their simplicity is also accompanied by a serious lag in reliability when compared to pumped/regulated carb equipped engines with spark ignition. It's the price we pay to get that outstanding power-to-weight ratio that we enjoy so much.
Santa just brought me a brand new OS 1.60FX with accessories for Christmas. I'm holding on to my GP Ultimate Biplane ARF (the last of my giant scale models) and I'm going to power it with the 1.60FX. However, after the engine is broken-in completely, I'm going to switch from glow ignition to a C&H spark ignition with the Synchro-Spark module. I'm also going to use an Iron Bay regulator with the tank pressurized by crankcase pressure. I also intend to use E85 if I can determine that the Iron Bay regulator will tolerate 15% gasoline. If not, I'll look for a source of denatured ethyl alcohol and go from there. The idea is to lower the cost of flying, while simultaneously adding to the reliability. I know that it will be difficult to match the reliability of the stock OS 1.60FX on glow, but it is something to do and kill time.
Ed Cregger
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I have read the manual for my new saito .82..And just wanted to make sure that is the best way for break in. I sure you guys know best..Also is there anything I can do to possibly make it a little louder? I do not want to loose power I just like it a bit louder..Thanks in advance
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Hello fellows, I have been following another thread about a Saito 125 under performing and would like to know what the real world power is for this engine.
If it was just one person with low rpm I would chaulk it up as a fluke, but there are multiple posts of low rpm with this engine.
These statements along with the OP's problem (full thread here http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_8245054/tm.htm ) have me more than just a little concerned about my NIB 125.
Horizon states APC 16x6 9000 rpm, 15% nitro which seems reasonable to me. If this is not reasonable let me know while the engine is still brand new so I can move it along.
Prop, RPM, and nitro information would be great.
[quote]
All went well until I started leaning it out after 1/2 gallon. It behaved normally as I progressively did this over two tanks of fuel, but when I finally had it correctly set it was only pulling 7700rpm. Didn't sound hard or tight, but just wasn't performing. Needle adjustments made it behave pro-forma, but didn't improve the performance. It will happily sit and burn through a complete 14oz tank like this without showing any signs of stress.
Whilst checking that it wasn't overheating, I discovered that if I let it cool down for 30 seconds or so by stopping it or just backing off to tickover, when I opened the throttle again it would belt out at 8800rpm for between 4 and 8 seconds before dying off over a few more seconds back to 7700rpm. This was completely repeatable and continued for another three tanks at which point I gave up.
[quote]
Try a APC 15x6 or 7. Mine is well broke in and wont swing the 16x6 more than 8000 rpm no matter how you tune it and the high speed needle is not very responsive with this prop. An APC 15x8 works a little better but it doesnt come to life until I used the 15x7. I have a 120 Saito that swings the 16x6 with no problem, I wonder what they did while they were shaving weight on this motor. Fuels used are 15 or 20%, never tried 10%
[quote]
9800rpm on a 14x8 is about right for this engine. Mine turned an APC 15x6 @ 9800rpm on 10% nitro. APC16x6 is ok for scale and slow bipe models flying mostly less than half trottle. On my UCD 60 APC15x6 and 16x4w pulled much better and worked better for hovering and 3D. I always have some castor oil in my fuel.
If it was just one person with low rpm I would chaulk it up as a fluke, but there are multiple posts of low rpm with this engine.
These statements along with the OP's problem (full thread here http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_8245054/tm.htm ) have me more than just a little concerned about my NIB 125.
Horizon states APC 16x6 9000 rpm, 15% nitro which seems reasonable to me. If this is not reasonable let me know while the engine is still brand new so I can move it along.
Prop, RPM, and nitro information would be great.
[quote]
All went well until I started leaning it out after 1/2 gallon. It behaved normally as I progressively did this over two tanks of fuel, but when I finally had it correctly set it was only pulling 7700rpm. Didn't sound hard or tight, but just wasn't performing. Needle adjustments made it behave pro-forma, but didn't improve the performance. It will happily sit and burn through a complete 14oz tank like this without showing any signs of stress.
Whilst checking that it wasn't overheating, I discovered that if I let it cool down for 30 seconds or so by stopping it or just backing off to tickover, when I opened the throttle again it would belt out at 8800rpm for between 4 and 8 seconds before dying off over a few more seconds back to 7700rpm. This was completely repeatable and continued for another three tanks at which point I gave up.
[quote]
Try a APC 15x6 or 7. Mine is well broke in and wont swing the 16x6 more than 8000 rpm no matter how you tune it and the high speed needle is not very responsive with this prop. An APC 15x8 works a little better but it doesnt come to life until I used the 15x7. I have a 120 Saito that swings the 16x6 with no problem, I wonder what they did while they were shaving weight on this motor. Fuels used are 15 or 20%, never tried 10%
[quote]
9800rpm on a 14x8 is about right for this engine. Mine turned an APC 15x6 @ 9800rpm on 10% nitro. APC16x6 is ok for scale and slow bipe models flying mostly less than half trottle. On my UCD 60 APC15x6 and 16x4w pulled much better and worked better for hovering and 3D. I always have some castor oil in my fuel.
I too have a Saito 125a that has only a couple of gallons of fuel run through it. The vibration is excessive and the prop nuts are very hot after only a few minutes of running the engine. Taking it apart revealed the bearings to be very dry and even a little rusty! I can only assume the crankcase port being in the back plate is causing the oil to be ported out the back and not properly lubricating the bearings (causing the overheating and rust). Could be be a design flaw??? Oh yeah, I too can only get 7900 rpm with an APC 15x8 prop. Should have gotten the OS engine and saved some money!
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They might have used 30% for those numbers, because it seems those boys at Horizon like 30% quite a bit.
Be patient and your 125 will continue to get stronger for many many gallons. I was once in your boat.
Be patient and your 125 will continue to get stronger for many many gallons. I was once in your boat.