Thunderchild

Saito engine bearing part numbers and manufacturer equivalents

Hello fellow Saito nuts! It's been awhile.

I have a question please.......

I am tgrying to source some ceramic bearings here in Oz (harder than you think) for my crashed 82a. The bearing people tell me that they don't normally hold stocks as there is not a lot of demand. Now, I have a large stable of Saito children that I love dearly and will eventually have to perform the same surgery on to prolong their little lives. This got me to thinking and wondering if any of my Saito Club friends have put together a cross reference chart of Saito Part Number - Manufacturer Steel Part Number - Manufacturer Ceramic Bearing Part Number equivalents for each of the Saito models out there? You know, like that wonderful little Saito manual does for sapre engine parts - "Small-Medium Single Cylinder 4-Stroke Engine Instruction Manual Version 2005" that has all part numbers for all engine models listed.

Anyone help me?

VeeAte

Gday Thunderchild.

That would indeed be a handy item.

Dont know about ceramic bearing here in aus. But I used to buy ceramic bearings for my RC cars from this mob:
http://www.bocabearings.com/main1.as...=2&bc=SK&mfr=8

That list has their ceramic and steel bearings for the Saito's.
Those guys were good to deal with.

mike109

G'day

I recently needed some bearings for a Saito 65 that I left in the back of the ute for a couple of weeks in winter. Result - rusted bearings.

I bought some ceramics for it and some plain ones too for another engine from http://www.rc-bearings.com in the US. Prices were very reasonable and delivery very quick and cheap. I am very happy. If he does not list what you want, an email will give quick results.

Just do a google for rc bearings and you will find him.

Cheers from Dubbo

w8ye

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http://rc-bearings.com/catalog/index.php

Thunderchild

Thanks guys - great help.

Sounds like a project for 'Ron (make a note to self). When I get the list together I shall post to all.

VeeAte you in Gero? AHve to visit - maaaate!!

Blue skies all

VeeAte

Haha. Yep just up the road

If your ever up this way PM me and we can go out to the club for a fly.

Will do the same if I am heading your way.

Thunderchild

Don't tell our yank friends what "just up the road" means in Australia.

Yep, will do thanks and likewise when down here.

When you are nipping on down, let me know and we'll go "fly it like we stole it" [8D]

VeeAte

Hahaha.

454 km's is just up the road!

rcdude7

My Feedback: (264)

Club Saito!

I have a question about a new, later model (white box, cast muffler) FA 80, it was a *bay purchase. Is this engine close to the 91 in power? The ideal prop for my FA .65 seems to be a APC 13X6, so I am guessing the 80 would be good with a 13X7 or 13X8. Am in the ballpark here?

Any tips, suggestions, etc. would be helpful.

Thanks

Mike

vince.b

My Feedback: (1)

as far as props go you can get away with wood props slightly bigger because they are lighter then apc.
it also has to do with your style of flying and the type of plane.
Saito 220 in a sundowner with a 17x12apc to a 16x13apc the fuel burn was cut an easy 50%. just cruising half throttle doing big lazy 8's, big loops, stall turns and circuits.
is the motor in a scale, 3d or trainer?

rcdude7

My Feedback: (264)

I like flying aerobatic planes and use heavy throttle.

My FA.65 was mounted on a ultrastick 60 and did well for a small engine, it could climb vertical well, athough slowly. I would be using the 80 on a similar type plane. Would a APC 14X6 be too much prop for this engine?

Mike

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

Did anyone notice that the valve covers are 2mm farther apart on the Saito 125 with a "B" on the mounting lug than on the one with a "A".

This exist on the engines with the SAI125A01A cylinder rather than the SAI125A01 cylinder. The Saito FG-20 cylinder (SAIG2001) which is much like the SAI125A01A cylinder is also this way.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

The 80 struggles with a APC 14-6. Something like a APC 14-4W would wake that puppy up on a Ultra Stick

Rudolph Hart

Shoosh and here's me thinking i'm good at insulting foreigners

V8 boil up the billy mate and drop a few youkaliptis gum leaves in it,koala's waste it by smoking them.A few of us old fogies might feel like coming up to south darwin and fly it like it was stolen too.

VeeAte

Hahahaha

Billy is on the boil Old Fart. [8D]

All welcome at Midwest Aeromodelers any time.

jmcmike

My Feedback: (45)

Hey guys, my brother just picked up saito 180 and thinks he needs to break it in on caster fuel, is this right? I thought we were synthetic only.

Ken6PPC

Castor is a love/hate thing. You either love it or hate it. Me, I'd NEVER run an engine without at least some castor in the fuel mix, especially a new one.

rcbiplane

My Feedback: (1)

Hi I JUST GOT A 300T THAT NEEDS WORK , VALVES STUCK OPEN AND REAR BEARING MIGHT NEED REPLACING. tHE BACKPLATE WILL ROTATE BUT WILL NOT COME OFF, aNY IDEAS? . Also would like to find a book with torque values etc. for putting this and other small engines together the right way. Would like th hear from anyone who has been thru this before.
Thanks very much, Geo

BobbyGee

My Feedback: (3)

Castor has some filming properties that synthetics don't. It films onto the surfaces that it lubricates, so it's reputed to add to a fuel's overall lubricating quality in blends. 3% castor in a blend is pretty much the benchmark. That isn't to say that 3% oil is all that's needed in the fuel - 3% castor added to 15% synthetic, for example, is common.

For running an engine in, it's optimal.

Castor haters don't like the way that it "cooks" on to engine parts, and if it's left in an engine it can gum up. It needs more care than straight synthetics, but there is a benefit.

And then again, it depends on whom you ask.

BobbyG

Thunderchild

Mate, this has been an ongioing debate since Wilbur & Orville were in short pants. Personally I always run 3% blended with my synthetic and do the same for "special orders" when doing a batch of fuel for club members. I have always been intrigued by the ambiguous nature of the Saito manuals. For mine, they seem to have a bet each way. If you buy an engine in Australia, the manual that comes with it tells you to run synthetic. If you buy exactly the same engine in the US or Europe, the manual says "a mix of synthetic-castor oil is acceptable and can be found in various fuels...".

My 82a that I described earlier might be an example to ponder. The engine has been in four different aircraft for maybe around 600 odd flights. It has run happily on 3% castor blended fuel all this time. I follow the Will Robison school of thinking and run it dry after the last flight. When I get it home I inject after run oil and turn it over to distribute the oil about the internals - then store it nose down (and upside down) to allow the excess oil to run into the nose bearing and cam gear.

When I tore it down to do the repairs (battery failure resulting in the Giles going vertical and doing an impresion of a lawn dart) I found that you could eat your dinner off the internals. The crankshaft counterweight boss was slightly discoloured, but otherwise the engine was just beautiful.

So I guess what I am saying is, what you run your engine on in flight is important, but JUST AS IMPORTANT is how you treat the little masterpiece after the fun bit is over. You give your engine(s) the appropriate amount of after run maintenance and they will give you very long and faithtful service - full synthetic lubrication or castor/synth blend.

The example I give here is my 82a

Crash damage: new intake and exhaust manifolds, new pushrod shroud tubes, new engine gasket kit.
Routine (read precautionary) maintenance while torn down: replace main bearings - the rest of the engine is good to go.


Happy flying [8D]

TC

Hobbsy

My Feedback: (102)

Geo. I have a chart on the wall of my shop that came with my Tork-It, I'll photo it and post it for you. On small, short screws like in blackplates etc. I use one half the value listed. For example on the rocker covers I use 4 inch lbs.

Rudolph Hart

Hi guys i picked my 220 up today.Read all the specs but it still comes as a shock when you see and feel it for the first time.Can nearly stick my little finger all the way down the inlet trumpet.When i first fired up my 62 after following all the instructions it barked real good and i felt like running back out the shed door in case it jumped it's mountings and tore my head off.Any tips for flick starting the new one?

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

You have to flip them against the back stroke clockwise and they fire and run counterclockwise

vince.b

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if there is no caster it just takes longer to run it.

w8ye

My Feedback: (16)

If there is no castor you may ruin it