Not24, I am giving the 2300 a long due rest as I have all these other Super Tiger to play with now. It is funny though how they all seem to have the same behavior pattern except the carb. My other Super Tigers don't seem to be plaigued with the carb problem, but I can tell that they demand more attention to getting everything in sync. The 2300 will come out this spring when I quit all this playing around. When I do get going full speed again that thin is going to be put through it paces. I plan on going to every fly-in in Mississippi, Tenn, Alabama, Ark, that I can go to within driving distance. I am going to get the camping equipment out and dust it off and spend a few weekends out on the road.

It's doing much better now. I think you're right about the ls needle. People seem to be scared to touch that one, and it does most of the work.

Had my P-51 out last week. That sucker was going about 110. It was movin! You guys need to try the 2300 in a speed scenario.

Cyclic what prop are you running on the 2300 for speed now? Is the 60 size mustang still holding up to the torque of the 2300?

I have a 14/12 APC on it. Also have the Jettstream Muffler on it. Not sure of the Rpms but it does well up here at 5000ft. Be real good on the coast. Here are a couple of lousy photos. The purple is before the recover which shows the engine setup.

Cyclic I saw a 60 Mustang a few months ago that that had a Saito 180 mounted on the nose. Those mustangs must handle large engines. If I ever crash my Funtana I might give the 2300 a try on one of those as it looks fun to fly. How many more rpms do you think the Jett muffler is giving your engine?

I've seen a few with Saito 120's on them. Flew real good. You need to beef up the inside and outside of the firewall areas to help it hold up. Actually i do that to every plane I have whether it needs it or not.

I would think you are getting at least 500 rpms increase out of the Jett muffler?? I fly a 17X6 right at 9000rpms but I realize for speed it needs to go higher but I am not sure how high the 2300 can go? With the 14X12 prop you are going twice as far forward as a 17X6 like I run with every revolution.

Next time I go out in a week or so, I'll see what it's turning

Can you guys believe I read this whole thread? LOL I DID! I had an old ST2300 I won at auction sitting around, an dI finally got a plane to put it in. So, I slapped the whole thing together a few months ago and went out and flew it. I'm just now getting around to posting my pirep.

I wrote Connelly and asked them a few questions about the Perry pump and carb. The gist of that convo was, more Perry pumps and carbs are sold for the ST2300 than for any other motor. We're leaning tward "no-brainer" territory here guys. So I purchased the pump and the carb, tapped the backplate, and set it up. After trying both ways, I recommend the straight setup, not the bypass setup. With the bypass setup, and the pump cranked all the way up, I still couldn't seem to get enough fuel into the motor. And I wound up using 5% nitro fuel too. I seemed to have weird in-flight power changes with higher nitro that I attribute to overheating problems... even on a rich mixture. I could possibly keep the higher nitro and open up the cowling a lot more for cooling. *shrug* Anyway, bottom line is it runs GREAT where it's set at now.

This motor is NOT as powerful as I would have thought. I can't remember exactly what prop I'm using, I tried a few. I think I've got a 16 x 8 on there now? Anyway, I shot for and got 9000 RPM and I chose the prop that acheived that figure. 17 x 6? 16 x 8? I can't remember. But I do know that I get more useable thrust at the higher RPM that I got with an 18 x 6. That's just a bit too much prop for this motor. This isn't a gasser wanting to turn at 7500 RPM.

Learning tune the perry pump and carb was very little fun. After I got the hang of it though, it became easy all of the sudden. The motor was talking to me loud and clear telling me what it wanted... more fuel here, less fuel there.... and I had read the Perry instructions (both paragraphs) and knew how to make those adjustments, but everything didn't click in my head until about my 3rd attempt. Very easy then. I won't reprint the Perry paragraphs here. Bottom line, use the straight pump connection (not the bypass) and turn the pump pressuer up high enough that you can actually adjust the motor to a overly rich setting. My problem all along was that I was hesitent to change the pump setting and was trying and trying to adjust a LEAN MOTOR! And the bypass setup with pump pressure cranked all the way up yeilded a lean motor too. Yeah, it's enticing to try the bypass setup. It seems easier to crank the pump all the way up and forget about it. But it's SO EASY to set the pump in a non-bypass setup too. And... without the bypass... you're actually pumping fuel, at proper constant pressure, to the motor and not just back to the tank! NEver go lean! I think that equates to , never go deadstick??? LOL I'm jinxing myself baaaad.

Anyway, I'll play with it a little more this spring. I cna barely remember where I left off. Except I remember that I put the motor on the front end of a VERY snappy (as in undesireable snap rolls with veeeery little elevator input) Seagull Laser 200. Now I need to research and try to figure out how to make that model less snappy. Or put it to pasture ... but now I like the motor!

iiiat, I have been down that road with this engine and it isn't a pleasant experience. THe 2300 will run well without the pump if you change the carb. I still have a pump in the drawer but will never put it back on the 2300, don't need it and it make adjusting a nighmare but as you stated it can be done but not with the original carb. I spent a year adjusting needles and pumps because on my inability to follow what I knew was wrong.

I don't think there is an engine out there that has had more flase information written about it. I think I must have tried every thing that had been written or suggested. I am still amazed at what I did with this engine for it to have turned out to be such a great engine.

I just bench ran my new 2300 and I am quite impressed with it. I have read numerous post about carb problems so I purchased a jet carb with the engine. I did the break in today with the stock carb for comparison. I used homebrew with 7.5% nitro and 20% oil ( 16% klotz and 4% castor). OAT was 80 F (Florida). After a Half gallon with a Master 16-10 prop I was getting steady runs at 9200 RPM and a good idle at 1800. I think it may still be a little rich on the low end as it smokes a bit on trasition, however the tranition is smoth with no stumble. At first glance this engine is more than I could have hoped for at the price it was sold at. Tomorrow I'll run it with the Jet carb and see if there is any improvement, can't imagine that it could do much better,but we'll see.

I had the same experience with mine in the beginning. It purred like a kitten after a few tanks, and seemed to run really well. I used the suggested 18-8 prop, which I think is way too big and heavy for this engine. My problems didn't show up until the flight testing. I'm curious about something. Do you have the engine mounted to a table? Or is it mounted to a portable stand that you can pick up and change the attitude with? I'd really like to see what your engine does when you raise the nose at 1/3 to 1/2 throttle after both needles are tuned to your liking. Mine would sag right down and die when doing this, but I found out first in flight. My engine was mounted to a Funtana 90, so there wasn't much full throttle flying unless I was going vertical. Even then, it was not necessary.

My favorite props are the 16-10 for speed and penetration, and the 17-8 for harriers. I tend to like to fly my Sukoi more like a full scale than a toy, so I keep the 16-10 on it.

Good point, unfortunatly mine is clamped to the bench. I will test that when I get it mounted in an aircraft.

Hello, having some carb issues i have a 2300 st that was in a gee bee that i tip stalled
last year i fired it up ran assome she is now in a fw-190 and leekin
alot of fuel out the carb when the barrel is slightly open????
is this normal?? she was having probs at the field.
check all fuel tank thats good? she would run if primed
i think some thing is in the carb??

any advice?? thanks ken

Pe' has a fix for the original carb and the engines are supposed to transition perfectly after doing it. Basically reverses the dog leg groove in the barrel with a dremel and the barrel spring allows the barrel to run in the right spot. No pump needed unless you need the tank on the cg.

My 2300s don't change how they run whether they are on the bench or in the plane, unless you have either a fuel tank problem or a cooling problem. The tank centerline needs to be near (+- 3/8 inch or so) the carb inlet centerline, and it cannot be too far from the engine. there must be enough cooling air so the engine doesn't overheat - especially there must be plenty of opening for the cooling air to get OUT of the cowl. Also a hot glow plug is the way to go (OS f or fox rc long).

Ed

Sounds like your carb is lower than tank and is siphoning the fuel out.

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Yep. That's what I was thinking too.


Ed Cregger

Hi guys, I fly an extra 330L 67¨ wingspan with a stock st2300 spinning an APC 16x8 pattern.

I have run through it 2 gallons (5% nitro) already but still running a little rough on midrange and cannot get a smooth transition. The other day inspecting the engine, I realized that I installed a medium sized silicon fuel tube. I guess I should have gone with the larger diameter tube.

You guys think this could be the culprit for the poor performance so far achieved.

Nope, that's not it. Go to 15% nitro and reset the needles. It's running rich, not lean, so the fuel is getting to the engine just fine. Other than that, it just needs more run time.

If it ran well at WOT, I'd look elsewhere. I run 15% in mine and it transistions pretty well. Might try more nitro. If it's only the transition, I might even suspect the needles still need a little needlin'. 1/8 to 1/16 of a turn on the low end at a time. Does it smoke at idle, transision or WOT? Do the pinch test and point it at the sky test to see how it reacts at idle. Great engine, even with that infamous carb.

Your 5 % nitro is fine. So is med tubing. Your low end just needs a 1/16 to 1/8 turn toward lean. At 2 gallons your about broke in and Big Tigres won't like 15% nitro. Heck small Tigres don't like 15% nitro.

Thanks guys for the prompt response. Yes, the engine smokes a lot at idle and at WOT, at least on the ground. I don´t dare go full throttle while flying. This engine has too much power for this airframe.

I presume I have room for improvement by working with the needles, so I´ll do that next time on the field.

About the 15% nitro content, is that a must? cause it is so expensive and Bax said you could get by with 0%.