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These engines were designed for 0% nitro, but 5% is okay.

Running higher nitro in these engines is a waste of money and is detrimental to their performance and life span. But what do I know? I'm just an old fart with fifty years of experience at this sort of thing. <G>


Ed Cregger

You may have 50 years experience, but not with the 2300. I totally disagree with anyone who says low or no nitro in ST engines. I've done the tests, and the higher nitro makes the engine much more happy. It idles smoother, transitions faster, and runs cooler. It also turns up a couple more hundred revs, to boot. I'll let you know when my engine won't run anymore. By then, maybe I'll have 50 years experience too.

Well Ed, I'm pretty new at this and I've learned a lot from your other posts throughout this forum. Thanks for that. But, respectfully, I'll keep running my 15%. It seems to run fine with it and I'm not one to fly wide open with it anyway. Regardless of what nitro fuel you run, it seems that, in this situation, boex just needs a little more fiddling with the fine tuning on his engine.

Boex,
As for 15% being a must, I wouldn't go that far. The reason I've got a 2300 today, along with my OS and Saito engines, is because I wanted to find out FOR MYSELF whether these ST engines were any good. If they were, they are one of the best kept secrets in the hobby, if not, at least I'd know for myself. Well, I think the guys who are doing so much complaining about them are actually ST afficianadoes, that are just trying to discourage others and keep the price down for themselves.

I'd say it's not a must (and I don't think its contributing to the problem you mention here) but if you get the chance, try it, you may like it!

Well here in the USA nitro is cheap and I talked to 2 different brand fuel reps and 15% nitro is their #1 seller. That is fine and Dandy till you recommend 15% to a flyer in a foreign country . Now in some cases you just doubled his fuel cost. I paid $60 for my last gallon of nitro and thought that was robbery since the gallon before was $37.............In the right engines 5% will out perform 15% by hundreds of RPM...........

Speedster,

What language do they speak where you are from - you know, Martinsville, Indiana?

Your sig obviously hasn't been updated. Not looking at the financial side of the decision, if it runs on 5% or whatever, great. I'd stand with my original thought that it's still the carb's tuning, not the fuel that's going through it. He can get it squared away and the only thing it will cost him is his time.

Here in Argentina it costs 28 US dollars a gallon with 15% nitro and 15 bucks for 5%. If the 2300 works only well on 15% I might consider migrating to a gas engine eventually.

If you really want the engine to run well on 5% nitro, then I would say a carburetor change is in order. You need a smaller intake to keep the need for too much fuel down. When you load the engine up with enough 5% to get it to balance the amount of air it gets, it's just too much fuel for it to burn. It's like putting a cam in an engine that doesn't have the right heads and exhaust system to match it. Power actually improves with the smaller carb because you can get a better needle setting, and fuel draw is also improved. I think Mr Cregger will agree with me on this one.

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Yep, I sure do - to a point.

However, it doesn't have much to do with the nitro, or this engine specifically. I'm of the opinion that any engine that NEEDS muffler pressure to run the best that it can with the carb it comes with, actually has too large of a carburetor and would benefit from a better carb installation.

Super Tigre and other brands used to run smaller carbs, i.e., less air flow capability, many years ago without truly needing muffler pressure due to their "smaller" carbs. Fuel suction was much better and the engines were much easier to "needle".

With all of that said, for non 3D usage and with a fuel tank that is appropriately centered in relation to the carb spraybar, most of today's carbs are servicable. This does not mean that the owner/operator will have the cleanest transition from low to high throttle, but it will be flyable in the basest sense.


Ed Cregger

I will continue following the directions on the manual (pinch/release, that sort of thing) and hope I see improvement in the next couple of gallons, praying in the meantime I won`t get any dead-sticks.

If I donĀ“t succeed with the super tiger way then I will have no option but to adopt some of your suggestions:

1 Change glow plug to an OS
2 Install fuel pump
3 Replace carburetor
4 On board glow system
5 Use 15% Nitro
6 Change muffler
7. Throw in the towel and get a spanking new OS Engine

Step three should take care of the whole thing without the rest of it.

I used 1,2,3,5 and 6, and mine runs just ducky!

I used only making the pitts muffler outlet tubes outlet area abut the same as the original equipment muffler outlet area and mine run very nicely. this is with either a fox r/c long or os f plug, and omega 10% fuel. also do not tune it to have much of a smoke trail - it does need to be a little rich on the top end when taking off as the engine will heat up a bit more in the air and lean out some, but they don't run like saitos. ay least in my experience most saitos like to be what I would call super rich where you can see a heavy smoke trail in the air.

Ed

The 5% nitro will get better fuel mileage than 15% and that is a proven fact. It is reported that the Fox Idle bar plug gives the right timing to any Super Tigre engine. I can't say different since I use the RClong in every Tigre I own from 40-1.80 (3000) except for my 4 strokes (non ST's of course). And 1 Tiger shark 61 that needs a KB1L And Like I said the 15% is about double in your country............

Well, I am going to continue using 5% nitro and following your advice speedster, I ordered a Fox RC long plug. ItĀ“s just a 4 dollar gamble, how wrong can I go?[8D]

Hey, what are your thoughts on the guy drilling out the carb in that other thread.

I think I know what he has done, and i don't see how it would work. The Tigre carb is definitely ugly as far as the flow path is concerned. There should be no forward facing steps in there, and there is. Not only are the diameters different, but the bores don't line up at open throttle. It would be okay to have a smaller bore in the barrel, like many others have done with a sleeve, but then you have a larger step on the downwind side. I went with the Magnum carb, which has a smooth venturi style flowpath.

To me, it seems to be a matter of right sizing the carb to the intake requirements of the engine. I don't know how to to that mathematically, so I have to resort to trial and error.

The Magnum carb has a sleeve in it that chokes the diameter by about .035" or so. That equates to quite a bit when you work up the area. I ran the engine both with and without the sleeve, and it ran much better with it. Without the sleeve, I had to open the needle more, which put me close to wide open needle. The flow tests I did on the carbs showed that anything over 2.5 turns open is beyond the range of the needle. So a needle that is open about 1.25 turns is right in the middle of the range of adjustability.

Now that I have a pump on the engine, I could probably remove the sleeve in the carb and maybe get a few more revs, and the needle would be open a tad more. With the pump, it runs at 3/4 turn and is very sensitive.

I was just out to the field today for a couple of flights with my Sukhoi and the 2300. I've got the Bisson muffler and 5/32" fuel line installed. I had a couple of flights on the engine but I noticed that it now seemed that it wanted to be leaned out a little on the low side but could have been a hair richer on the top end. I decided to plug the one exhaust and see what that did for it. Doing that cured the lean high end. I plugged the one closest to the pressure nipple (if it makes a difference to anyone) and now it sounds great all the way up. I turned the low end in about a 1/4 turn until all was said and done. Now, it idles better, transitions better (quicker) and doesn't 4-stroke as badly at idle. It was new just a few tanks ago so I was sure it would need a little more tweaking as it broke in. It just keeps getting better! BTW, I'm still running the ST carb with a type-F plug and a 17X8 APC prop.

TCrafty:

What percentage nitro are you using?

Thanks.

Bye, ian

.

Still havenĀ“t lost all faith on this engine and continue ahead with the break in process. IĀ“m on my third gallon and I see some improvement. I ordered a new glow plug with an idle bar, IĀ“ll test it next week and see how it goes. I donĀ“t expect too much out of it.

I know, I shouldĀ“ve bought a 4 stroke engine like a Saito, I want to do 3d eventually and I donĀ“t think the 2300 is up to the task. I saw a video of Kyle Woyshnis flying a Funtana 90 with a Saito 1.20, I think. Wow, amazing. If I could fly 1/10 as well, IĀ“ll be pretty happy.

That engine Kyle was using is a YS 120 FZ. It turns the 16-6 over 11,000 rpm. So he said when I asked him.

I'm not Saito bashing here, but I have two friends who each have a 150. One is bran new, and it's down for repairs. The bearings are shot. The other is older, but with little total time. It is starting to make some very strange noises that we can't figure out. He needs to pull it down to find the problem before flying again. I only mention this because all model engines are subject to issues. The good news is that the 2300 is much cheaper to start from, and it's issues deal mostly with the carb and break-in.

Personally, if I were going to get serious about 3D, I would only use YS. Because I'm more of a sunday sport flyer, the 2300 is perfect for me.

The 2300 on a Funtana 90 works well for 3D, plenty of power and speed. I put a gallon through mine this week and it will yank the Funtana plenty hard enough for 3D. I use the 17X6 but I would be willing to bet the 17X4 would allow quicker revup time, not that the 2300 has any problem with the 17X6. Forget about the 18X6 though as it loads the engine too much except for just flying around the sky.

Ian,

I'm using 15% Magnum fuel with a Type -F plug and 17X8 APC prop. With one pipe plugged, it seems to be just right for my Goldberg Sukhoi.

Hey Giant,

Did you ever get the chance to run your 2300 with the Jett red carb????? I was thinking of getting one for my 2300. Any info would be appreciated.

thanks,
Steve

I've run a few tanks thrue it, but I don't have a good answer for you. I need to run and adjust more. I have been diverted with other things. When I have a good answer I'll pass it on.