Boex:

Dispite all the great info in this thread, my G2300 would deadstick anywhere on the throttle range. I did all of numbers 1 to 6 and gallons of various nitro levels, various plugs etc. BUT, I didn't try #4 (onboard glow) till last! Perry carb, pump etc. seemed to make the engine run smoother across throttle but it would still dead stick frequently and unpredictably. After spending a lot of money on all these trys I finally installed a switch and a 4500mah nimh C cell (#4). The engine runs like a champ now!

I would recommend you try #4 FIRST before you try anything else, it is the cheapest to try ( under $10 for switch and battery).

Thanks to everyone for all the great info on this thread. It helped a lot. I have a variety of non OS engines some are the cheapest around. But I've never had a problem getting one to run reasonably until the 2300. I spent just too much time and money on the this guy. I'm not a Super Tigre fan anymore!

Cheers for now!

Coupoar, I have been where you are. The onboard glow does help but a proper setup Magnum carb sould resolve the poblem if the fuel tank is in the proper elevation in relation to the carb.

An O.S. 1.08 7D carb would be the best fix, and a Moki 1.50 carb even a better one! The stock carb really has too large a venturi and too rich a midrange for most folks. Too bad - it's an otherwise nice engine.

I went today to the field and flew my extra 330 with the new glow plug. This is the Fox RC Long with the idle bar. I did notice some marginal improvement in both transition and mid range. However, it does not provide a total ¨cure¨.

I am encouraged by Coupar´s success with the onboard glow solution though. I think I´ll try that next.

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The more running time (rich) the engine acquires, the better it will handle, regardless of which carburetor is installed. All model engines, especially ringed engines, need some run-in time. This is perfectly normal. Model engines are not plug-n-play, regardless of the marketing hype. OS comes about the closest, but even they improve with time.

Get a stiff upper lip, stick out that chin and mount this turkey on a bench. Then run the dickens out of it. You will notice when it breaks-in to a suitable level because you will notice the engine's attitude changing and the mixture richening to the point where you will have to lean it in order to keep it running where it was. Everyone goes through this (on the average). Super Tigres are/were made of hard metal. It takes a while to wear hard metal. That is what is taking so long. Look at the good side - once you wear this hard metal into final position, it is going to last a long, long time. If you want to pay someone else to do this kind of finishing work, buy the OS instead. But it really doesn't take THAT long to do it yourself. Just don't do it with the engine in your model and the engine down on the ground. If you have to do it in the model, find a table to set it on and to which you can fasten the model securely. An hour or two is a long time to hold a big model with a G2300 on it.

Do this and you will be amazed at how much easier it is to start and adjust. And don't forget to run fuel with a tad of castor oil in it, such as Omega, Wildcat, etc. It does help the engine mellow out.

I'm not saying that a Magnum or OS carb won't help, but you might find that once broken-in, the engine mellows enough that you won't want to spend the extra money and that the stock carb works well enough to fly your models safely. If you are going 3D with this engine, you might want to go with a smaller version of the aforementioned carbs. Get that air velocity up high enough to throttle well at part throttle. Besides, the only time that a really big carb helps develop more power is when you are revving hard with small props. Good luck.


Ed Cregger

I agree with everything he said. And I second that opinion.

Mine probably would have begun to run better had I used this approach. I was so interested in fixing it first, that I didn't allow it time to seek its own level. I know the carb was a drastic improvement over the stock one, but running "acceptable" wasn't good enough for me. I wanted perfect. I'm darn close to that right now. Close enough to not have tinkering with that engine on my list of things I have to do.

I have followed this thread since its inception. And, I think it is one of the better threads on RCU. I'm amazed at the range of experience that so many have had with this engine.

Well, this Christmas I received an ST 2300 and during the last two weeks I've bench run it on three occasions - today was the third. I've burned less than 1/2 gallon of Wildcat 15%, 18% oil with 3 ounces of castor added. I initially ran the engine on the ST plug it came with but changed to an OS F today. (I use OS F plugs in all my super tigers.) I initially used an 18 x 6 wood prop but changed to an APC 17x8 today.

Today I got 8600 on the APC (I still may be running a little rich) and had it idling at 2000 (I did go as low as 1800 but felt more comfortable at 2000.) Transition is excellent!

I found the high-speed needle to be very broad and the idle needle very sensitive - a change of as little as 1/16 turn on the idle can make a very noticeable difference!

This is more bench running than I usually do on a new engine - I usually run them till I get a reasonable idle then fly to break them in.

I know it needs more break in but I'm more than happy with it.

I'm now looking for a plane to put it in.

Paul

Paul, I finished breaking in my 2300 today and using Fox 5%/20% castor it turns a Mejzlick 18x8 at 7,900, the stock carb is linear and stumble free. The compression really came in during todays (2) 16oz runs. The 2nd tank was 8 oz of the Fox/20% castor and 8 oz of WildCat 5%/16% 80/20 syn/castor blend. Hopefully it will be a Diesel before the end of the week. I did the whole break in using the stock plug.

Good to hear success stories like those. I love my 2300, and love it even more with a Slimline pitts muffler! Last time out it had the new muffler, the other was a Bisson. To be honest, I didn't tach the engine. I set the high speed needle by ear and left the low speed alone. It was a little rich on the low end, but it barely hesitated at all. The HS was intentionally set about 700 rpm (guessing here) on the rich side. With that muffler, the engine sounds like a 50 cc gas burner. Not overly loud, but powerful sounding.

The engine was running so good I ran out of gas and had to deadstick.

Still using the vp 30 pump and 15% omega. Magnum 91/1.08 carb, and MA 16-10 prop. I'll put that engine up against any 1.20 2 stroke or the 1.50 Saito any day.

Well I have read ll of this and not piped in as of yet, because frankly I did not have any information that was factual. Well I have some facts now.

1. My initial break in on a bench stand proved difficult until I discoverd the muffer pressure fitting had a piece or junk in it, not allowing any presure on the tank.
2. The OEM plug gave out after one run, basicly, that plug could not handle rich settings. Put in a OS F
3, bench run a gallon through it on a 18-6 APC prop.
4. Mounted it up in a Excelleron 90 and performed adjustments before heading out for the maiden flight.
5. The maiden went well, I didn't ask for much from the engine, just had to do a little trimming on the plane, but found my self climbing almost uncontrolably until I brought it down to 1/3 stick. Whew, we have power in a 10.25lb plane.
6. Had some dead stick issues although I was not blaming the engine as this mounting goes aganst all the recomended set up of this engine. When Up right engine inverted, carb nipple is low to the center line, when inverted the nipple is way to high. But I still tried some adjusting and got it to run a full tank through. Reliable? maybe
7. Yesterday we had some pretty strong winds blowing, maybe 20 -25 MPH with some gust above that. Not my favorite weather, but I decided on a flight anyways.
Took off all was well, but I found I really wasn't happy with the gustyness of the wind, so I set up and made a quick pass to feel it out for landing, I noticed the throttle was at a very fast idel, I went to full throttle and then cut it back, and it was wide open, after a couple of wild laps I decided to hit the CUT switch and see, nothing, still wide open. Now mind you this plane is over powerd by a bunch, so when flying up wind it was halling balls, and then down wind, well, lets say I was definelty in the Quickie 500 game.
this went on for about 5 or 6 minuets, all the time the air frame is getting the crap knocked out of it, as the wind is buffeting around up and down like a freakin yo yo. Looked like I had a serious radio problem. Well I was the only one in the sky, and a pilot was coming out, I yelled at them to hold on and the did. It finally ran dry and I had a non eventfull landing.

Getting a look at things, I see the throtle arm is broken, well that explains it! right? Nope, tried to move the barrel and it was frozen solid full open. After removing all the hardware and removing the body, it took several good blows to knock the barrel out. Seems as though a small piece of metal lodged in top of the groove that the set screws rides in to hold the barrel. I'm talking small, and it was not from the set screw, it is in perfect condition. Were this came from I have no Idea. I tore down the carb before break in and then had more than a gallon and a half of fuel through it before this happened. So very strange!

I orderd a perry 5002 carb and a vp-30 pump today, hopefully the ring and sleeve are ok. It now feels a little down on compression, although I had set it up rich on that last flight, but man thoose down wind runs had to let that baby really unload. So it's possible. I'll pull it and inspect it later this week.

Mine performs better everytime I take it out

The airplane doesn't know the wind is blowing. It runs the same rpm in any direction, regardless of the wind. The only thing that will unload the engine is a dive. This isn't the first time I've heard of a throttle sticking on this engine. Just one more reason to go with a different carb.

As much as I hate to drag this out again, I beg to differ a bit here. If I understand this right, your saying that a plane unloads the same with a head wind as a tail wind and that the only way it will unload is in a dive? Am I missing something here?

That's dead right. Once a plane is in the air the wind has no effect (apart from turbulence).

You may get the impression that the engine is revving faster on a down-wind pass but that's down to the increased doppler shift created by the higher ground-speed.

The plane is still flying at exactly the same airspeed and the engine is doing the same RPMs, regardless of whether it's heading into the wind or downwind.

Regardless of wind or dive or climb, you will not overrev this engine. It is rock solid and tends to have a limit on rpm due to tuneing. However I haven't tried it with anything less than a 17X6 but I have ran it wideopen in all realms of flight on a Funtana 90 with many gallons through it now.

Yeh I missed it, it was late, Your talking rpms here.

Well I'm not going to dispute anything about the engine unloading or not, but I will say again, that the air frame took one heck of a beating in that buffeting wind. Kudos to the contruction of the Excelleron 90


My perry carb and pump are on the way.

Tearing down the engine to inspect today.\

Mike R

If you were running the 18X6 prop on the plane through all this you didn't even get it up to good operating rpm. This engine can handle all the rpms you can throw at it with a 17X4, even on down lines and keep coming back for more. The 18X6 is large enough to keep the engine from getting into serious rpms even if you climb as high as you can and point it at the ground and open it wide open. You are much more likely to do damage taking it apart and reassembling it needlessly.

Try a 14/8 APC and a Jett Ultrathrust!

Buzzingb

I was running a APC 16 X 10 on this plane, which was working well and turning 8200 on the ground.

As for doing damage during an inspection? you don't know my back ground in mechanics or in RC .
I will say this, Mr. Clarence Lee (I would asume you know who he is) was a mentor of mine some thirty years ago and taught me the correct ways to diasemble and assemble glow engines. I have a total of forty years in RC.

I have the tools, shop and knowledge to do it correctly every time.

this is not needlessly, something went wrong with the carb, a piece of metal was found, and that warrants inspection.

My planes are worth more to me than taking a chance on it.


Mike R

My 2300 turns the 17X6 9000 on the ground and unloads much more than that in the air. It seems to like it as far as I can tell because it just starts to come on the power band in the air.
Trollmaster, how many rpms will the 2300 turn a 14X8 with Ultrathrust? That seems like a small prop to me, would not a 14X10 or 12 be better? Well anyway just trying to be practical, backing out and letting you all hash it out.

In all fairness to buzzingbob needlessly taking an engine apart always runs the risk of cross threading threads . Since you said you found metal chunk this is justifiable.. I believe I read a piece by Clearence suggesting not taking glow plug out alot to check it for it was good for his business when the threads got crossed or stripped.

If you know what you are doing and are careful, taking an engine apart can be a good exercise without harming anything. I recently took the back plate off of a new engine and found debris of some kind in the crankcase. It is hard to cross thread if you are careful, use the right tools, and take your time. Learning more about your engines is always good in the long run.

i agree 100% with blw > every new engine made in China should be cleaned from small metal debris by removing the back plate & flushing it out...

It's a great mystery why they say 3.7hp at 12,600 then say this "Suggested prop size: 18x8, 18x10" I broke mine in using an 18x8 and think that a smaller prop is waste of the engines power.