Your correct that is what it now says on there website ,I'll look around here for a older manual,because its not what they used to claim,honest I didnt just dream this up it works .And if a person thinks about it at all its easy to see why .And as long as my engines run good for me I will continue to do what I have been doing.

Mr. Wolf,

I can't confirm what you state about the spraybar rotation with complete confidence, but I did confirm that rotating the spraybar towards the rear did not make it leaner. I was under the impression during my testing that it made no difference which way it was turned. It did seem to get richer, like you said when rotated to the rear. I never turned it the other way to see if it made any difference. You very well may be right. I just didn't confirm it in my testing. Also, I have no reason to doubt you. Just because something is stated in a manual, doesn't mean it is gospel. Look at the recommended prop sizes for this engine. They were definitely wrong about that. I honestly don't know why this particular engine seems to be a black sheep, but to them, it certainly is. It just needs more extensive testing on their part to find out what it really needs to run right. Then it should be fixed, and the manual updated to support their findings. If they did that, this whole thread probably wouldn't exist.

To all:
I have folled this thread from the beginning with interest because I have a Midwest Giles 202 with about 120 hours in the building, and have purchased an ST 2300 to power it. I have found the thread helpful. I have now put about a galln and a half in breaking in and setting up the 2300 and have not reached a level of confidence in the way it is running. Basically the same problem as many. So I decided to follow the route of a different carb. Yesterday when going to hobbypeople. net to order a magnum carb I was also looking for a few other supplies that I need at this time. They did not have all I was looking for so I took note of what it would cost for shipping, I then went to tower hobby to get the needed supplies and also checked the price of the 7D OS and found it to be 64.99 and then took note that they had a twenty dollar off for a 125 order, well I had to add a bottle of CA to my order and got this carb and the rest for nearly the same price as ordering the supplies from tower and the mag from Hobbypeople. So if you are considering the carb change you might want to check this out.

I believe I read that OS makes an adapter sleeve to fit the 2300. Let us know if you find this to be true.

After much experimentation with the stock (Italian version) carb, OS carbs, ASP carbs, I put a Perry (Conley) non-pumped Mega carb on the ST-2300. Bisson Pitts muffler with one outlet blocked for tank pressure, OS-F plug, APC 17x8 prop. Ran Cool Power 10 to 25% nitro. Engine runs superbly, never quits, excellent throttle response, linear and excellent power. Sold the engine and plane to a novice flyer and instructed him not to touch the needles on the carb. He followed my advice and flew the plane for a season - excellent power and not a single dead stick for him. The higher nitro fuel makes more power, but had no downside other than cost.

This was posted once before on page 9 http://www2.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXFY95&P=X it will take you there.
Rich I ordered two yesterday

Alright everyone, here's one for ya that I haven't read yet.

I am running an "interesting" setup after HOURS of unsuccessful carb tuning and have "interesting" results to follow...

Perry carb (non)pump
Large fuel tubing on everything
tank placed on carb center line
18x6 Mezjlik (sweet!) 9K rpm
OS f plug
Bisson Pitts Muffler with one tube blocked
And UNIFLOW tank setup.
15% omega

ok, so here's the deal

I am getting great transition from idle to full UNLESS I let it "Idle for too long" OR try to punch it after it's been at full thottle for a while.

Here's what happens:
1. I set idle to around 2K running pretty good then punch it and it gets real rich in mid-range and chugs up to full throttle

2. After running wide open for more than 5 seconds, I slam it back to idle, and try to punch it to full again and the engine goes WAY too lean and dies.

thought: It's a backpressure issue
Defense: The Engine will Idle forever with the muffler pressure line disconnected (won't run at full throttle though)


SO then my question ( WHY the inconsistancy in throttle response? )

Please respond to this thread if you've had decent experience with the 2300, and any proven ideas.
thanks everyone

I finally gave up . The last senerio took the fight outta me.
120 Edge 540-T
Bisson muffler, F-plug, 15% CoolPower, large tubing, blah, blah, blah.
Had it running great on a 17x6 APC. Nice idle, good mids and a very powerful high end.
Ran the tank out alternating between throttle settings until it ran out of fuel. Took a break for a couple of hours and went back out to run it again. Touched nothing. Filled the tank, finally started . Crap ! Poor idle. Ran lean and rough in the midrange. Transition was mushy. It did the old ST idle tricks again when you let it idle for a few seconds too long and try to throttle up. Changed the plug . Still crap.
Took the fuel out and started unbolting everything from the fuse. Went into the cabinet and got a box with a brand new OS 160FX in it. Mounted it , filled the tank. BOOM !! Problems solved. Been flying it almost everyday now.
Stock carb.
No pumps.
Medium tubing.
#8 OS plug.
15% Omega
Put the ST back in it's box and into the cabinet.

As Frisco Darling on the Andy Griffith show use to say... "More power on ya."
Seriously,,, I'm very happy for those that got a good one.
For those like me that didn't.............face the facts. About 3 outta 10 leave the factory lemons. And I got that little bit of info from a very good source. A few of them can't be healed with any after market part. Molded parts are molded parts.
I've had the best of the best tweak on this thing. On the plane. Off the plane. Perry carbs and pumps. Firehose for tubing. (Just kidding) I still have requests from some of the local tweaking gurus to let them try too.
When the dust settles,,,, the SuperTigre wins again everytime.

very Moving.... and sucks. Anyone Else???

Being inanimate objects, engines don't have it out for you, believe it or not. <G>

I am suspicious of the spring inside the carb, or a possible piece of metal flashing in the carb that is moving around from flight to flight, thus providing intermittent problems.

Or, you can do like others and replace the carb with the Mega Perry carb.

Like you, I will only fiddle so long before doing something radical. While I enjoy solving engine problems, I don't enjoy solving them on my models when I want to fly.

It is nice to have options like having a spare OS 1.60FX that is ready to jump in and keep you flying.

The one I have has been taken apart and checked out . All looked fine to the naked eye. When I tried the Perry carb and pump they checked out as well. And as for the tank , it was taken apart and rebuilt 3 or 4 times. I did learn alot about this engine and could tune , break-in and generally have an easy time of things if I were to get another one that worked right. I haven't had any offers for a new one from Tower yet so I guess they don't read these threads. I order 90% of my parts from them so maybe they will give me a break if I sent it back. Although I've had to do the JB Weld trick on two stock mufflers ,, the motor is in good shape.
Again I want to thank Bob Pastorello for helping me with this engine. Considering he is one of the top G2300 experts in the world, my case should be cut and dried that mine was a lemon. I'm going to call Tower Monday morning and talk with them. Not just being a Super Saver member but a loyal customer of Tower I will say they have always done me right.

Why keep trying the G2300 ? A friend bought a new one recently, mounted it to a plane , broke it in on that plane and hasn't had a deadstick one. Regular tubing, stock everything except muffler (Slimline Pitts..no blocked pipes). Runs great.

The guys with the good ones find all this trouble we are having hard to believe. Don't you ?

I have a couple of questions for you. One being, have you measured the diameter of the bore thru the perry carb? I'm thinking it's still too big for this engine. The bore thru the Magnum carb, with the sleeve installed , is .388. This works very well, but doesn't work without the sleeve.

Secondly, the prop you are using may be too heavy to allow for rapid spool up. My engine did what yours does on an 18-8, but on the 18-6 it was better. When the engine spools slowly, it is sucking in gobs of fuel and not able to burn it fast enough, so it loads up for a while, then clears up. If your engine won't run without tank pressure, I'd say that this still points to the carb being too large. Mine will run without the pressure line connected, even at full throttle. If the engine relies on the tank pressure, it becomes a tuning nightmare because the pressure is not always the same. If the tank pressure is just an aid to the fuel delivery, then it becomes easier to tune.

So it may very well be an atomization problem being that the carb throat is too big for this 1.4 engine.
Do you think uping the Nitro will help in transition? Or will I have to settle for the magnum carb???

Anybody selling their problematic Super Tigre G2300's. I'd be willing to give you a few bucks so that you don't have to experience a total loss! Drop me an email: [email protected].

why would you want a problematic motor?

I believe so.

Yes, but I wouldn't go over 15%.

Magnum or OS 7d seem to be the front runners when it comes to replacing the stock carb. These are the only two carbs I have not read anything bad about after the swap. Perry and Jett seem to still be a little off. I chose the magnum carb for price alone. It works great on my engine, with none of the problems you listed originally.

From my worldview, they are not problematic. Remember, beauty is in the eye of the tuner, and I love them. Yet, some do find them problematic, and so I am willing to help them cut their loss.

The problem with the Magnum carb is not the carb, but the adapter needed to make it fit the crankcase opening.

The inner carb opening on the 2300 is 11mm according to Tower Hobbies and the inner opening for the OS 160 is 9.5mm. That means the 2300 has a larger carb than the OS160 and that might very well be the problem. I think the reason I saw better transition with homemade glow system is that it kept the glow plug light and prevented it from going out as the unatomized fuel poured in. I still saw hesitation even with the continious glow system.

Your engine is loading with fuel at low idle, thats why it only stumbles after long periods of low idle. The fix is simply turning in the low needle until it will idle low for a minute or more with only a minimum of stumbling when the throttle is opened. The other part of your problem is that the carb bore is too large for the rpm you are turning. Find a smaller carb or sleeve down the stock one until the peak power comes down 100 rpm or more, at this point muffler pressure will not be needed.

I wouldn't go over 5%. Large engines do not need more nitro. In fact, many of them do strange things on this much nitro, such as get hard to tune or deadstick unexplainably. <G>

I think at this point I am thinking placing a restriction in the carb inlet is my best option. I'll try to homebrew a cyclinder to fit inside my Perry carb. When I do, How much INSIDE diameter should Be left open????

Depending on the diameter of the spraybar, about a 9-10mm bore. Sometimes a restrictive airfilter will help with fuel draw but is only effective at full throttle. Reducing the venturi increases the velocity around the spraybar where it does the most good. Rotating barrel carbs are limited in their ability to draw fuel at part throttle but are easy to make and the most forgiving over a range of applications.

I don't understand some of you guys. I thought I answered all of these questions a few days ago after the successful test flights with the Magnum carb. The bore thru the barrel is .388", which is equal to 9.86 mm. This diameter allows for good fuel draw and still makes all the power of the larger carb. The reason is because the fuel/air mixture is now better atomized than with the larger bore. Remember, I saw 9000 rpm on the st carb and 9250 with the magnum on the same prop. The real test, however, is when you hold the model vertically. When the bore is too big, it sags, when it is just right, it holds power or even increases in power. I tried this with the magnum carb and no sleeve, and it ran about like the st carb. Put the sleeve in, and a world of difference.

The other thing I said mine did with the st carb is this. It was hard to richen up. To get it rich enough to then be able to hold vertical, it would be too rich to fly, and would be spitting raw fuel out the muffler. With the smaller carb, I only need to back off 350 rpm from peak to be able to go vertical. The best part is that it only takes about 4 clicks on the needle to get that 350 rpm. On the st carb, it took about 2 turns.

I like the 10% powermaster and the way it runs. The high needle is open 1 3/4 turns for flying. With lower nitro, the needle would be closed a little more, and with higher, open a little more. I think the 10% is fine, but transition may be improved with 15%.

Problematic motors----Why----Because their cheap and usally don't have to throw parts in them. Most fly for a while deadsticks are tank and plumbing related. Most of the I give up $*&)# I buy are carbs that needles are just out of whack. Patience and what do I do next are the key. I know I will get flamed now.