okay, im new to this whole heli thing so i need some help. ok i want a heli and i think if i got one i would get an axe cp because they are cheap and capable of so much. ive been driving rc cars and flying air hogs a long time. i have a lot of hobby grade rc cars and i have driven nitro.

now, is it to hard just to hover, im not gonna be stupid and just start flipping the thing. but also i wanted to know what is the best battery to get.
i was looking at this setup.
[link]http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0001p?&I=LXHNW5&P=M[/link]
and but i would have to get a conector that went from deans to micro deans.
[link]http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin/wti0095p?FVPROFIL=&FVSEARCH=GPMP0815+&search=Go[/link]
any other better batteries that would work with it right out of the box? and also will the stock esc and stuff handle brushless? just in case.
yea, any help will be much apreciated.

dkme:
Im not around any electrical or conductive type materials.
Everything funtioned properly except for the servo glitch @ throttle up. Other than that all was ok.
I do believe the the servo glitch caused the tail rotor malfunction. The glitch had to throw spikes through the gyro or reciever.
I operated outside and inside to try to get rid of servo glitch and tail spin with no success.


Teenage Pilot 13:

Brand new Li-po 950mAh 15c, 2x Li-Po 1500mAh 15c
Not flying around any metal or powerlines.
Dont have any mechanical problems. Electrical problems are the factor.
Antenna, solder to tail motor, controller antenna, loose plugs are all good.
Should probably have motor checked. Thanks ill let you know.

P.S. I probably should have told you that ive been into RC's for 23yrs now... Ive done battery and nitro in cars and planes. Never played with heli's or gyro equipment until now. Thought it might have been a comon problem fix.

fusebmx13, the Axe is certainly not the best beginner heli out there. It's much too fast for untrained thumbs, even with the training gear. The stock equipment won't work with a brushless motor because it's a brushed ESC. You could switch out for brushless equipment, but the stock motor is plenty powerful enough with a Li-po. Still, I would STRONGLY reccomend a Lama coaxial heli to start with. The Lama can be found for about the price of the parts costs you'd have within one month of flying the Axe, and the Lama will not only teach you to fly but will still be around later when you want to take a break and relax

HellaCrash, what you have seems to be one of those cases that will either solve itself or drive you insane. Try disconnecting your motors and run just the servos. If they still go screwy, the servo problem is not motor-related. The tail problem could causing the servo problem; that isn't unheard of. Also, you could contact Hobby Services and see if they can help.

I fixed my switch problem. Walkera's hole-filling method on their transmitters of putting switches and buttons in that do nothing was actually helpful for once

Teenage Pilot 13:

Fixed the tail rotor problem. Put in a futaba GY204 Gyro. The gyro works excellent, no mater what conditions so far it always keeps its heading. Install was very easy, took about 1.25 hrs.
Didnt fix the servo glitch yet. Im starting to compensate throtle up and down for the glitch. Put 10 batteries through it today without any crashing.
What do you think about running it in phases?

Uh, I'm feeling slow today........ What do you mean by "phases"? How's the gyro? I've been considering one myself, as I have a case of incurable wag.....

In other news, I've officially torn out ALL my hair over this heli. I tried taking advantage of my blade-grip-less state and find out where my vibrations were coming from, and all I managed to do was lose one of my blade grip washers. AAAAAAAUUUUUGGGGGGHHHHHHH!!!! IT NEVER ENDS!!!!!!!![:@] On the bright side, I fixed my vibration problem, and just in time, too. I had almost plucked myself bald by that point already

It's even worse because as soon as I shell out the cash for alum. grips, I'll magically learn to hover nose-in and I'll never be in a replacement situation again........ [&:]

Does anyone know if these will fit the Axe?

http://www.slickzero.com/Merchant2/m...ry_Code=King2U

Triple-posting is bad, triple-posting is bad, trilpe-posting is bad.......[:@][:@][:@]

Well, not 10 minutes after I posted those up there, I left the room, tripped on a Chinese Checkers set that was on the floor, started picking up the marbles, and I found my runaway washer under the carpet! That makes me feel a lot better, considering I just saved $2 of a gift certificate[8D]

Teenage Pilot 13:

The GY204 works excellent. Had it in 10-15mph. winds and tail stayed true to its heading nomatter what direction. It is very sensitive to adjustment and takes a bit of time to get it tuned. Makes flying so much easier. Ive progressed from hovering to actual flying straight lines thanks to the GY204. I recomend it highly, it was worth every penny paid. Youll need the ElectriFly C-12 part #GPMM2015 (If your running the stock receiver and gyro) to make the GY204 work.
Problem, I now want the brushless motors, the ElectriFly C-12 doesnt support them. I can probably go to brushless on the main motor, but not the tail motor. I will have to check into it further.
I purchased all of my Rotor Head parts from http://helihobby.com they have a brushed alluminum product at a fair price. Received items in 3 days to Ca.. And purchased the Blade CP carbon fiber Blades at my local hobby store for $29. these things are nearly indestructable. Hope that helps

Click on my profile to see parts

HellaCrash,

Have you considered switching the tail to a Belt-Drive? My AXE CP has the Belt-Driven Tail modification from Freestyle-Hobbies, still using the stock 380 motor, although I dumped the 3in1 for separates. You'll end up with a lighter more responsive AXE CP!
Tail response is 10 times better than the stock unit, flight times with a 1350mah 20c Lipo is around 10-12 minutes. Don at Freestyle did original testing on the stock "crap-pack" 10.8v 650mah NiMH
battery, without any issues.
Here's a few pics of my monster:

Rick

Hellacrash - check out this thread about adding a gyro and using the ESCs on the 3n1!
[link]http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/fb.asp?m=6588525[/link]

Gentlemen, I have a question.I am new to the Heli side and I needed to know where can I get the stock charger for the Axe CP? I dont want to upgrade to the lipo just yet so I want to get another nimh battery and an extra wall charger for the workshop.

LHS doesnt have one and I wanted to know what are the good online chops to go to...

any good suggestions are appreciated..

Thanks

[link]http://www.helidirect.com/product_info.php?cPath=294&products_id=3509[/link]

thank you my friend.......

They also sell parts/upgrades - I suggest you get the plastic flat bottom blades to learn on - you will eat up the woodies in a hurry. Also, search for the thread on Axe alternative parts about the WalMark knitting needle tail boom replacement (because if you get the plastic blades, first boom strike will most likely bend it in half! (also can cause extreme body pain if struck with them!!)

will do...thanks again....

Wow..... I'm sitting here scratching my head wondering what happened.... I got my 3rd pair of blade grips in under 2 weeks but it was too dark to fly. After school the next day, I flew for 2 minutes then tried to land on a platform 1x1 foot and 3 inches off the ground. Only one skid landed on it[:@] Fourth pair of blade grips needed, nothing else.... Now I'm serious about the CNC ones.....

T.P.13,

Just remember this, if you switch to aluminum blade grips (HM or MicroHeli), you ARE more likely to break many more parts upon a crash. The plastic blade grips are CHEAP INSURANCE against breaking more expensive items, such as the feathering spindle, center-hub, or the mainshaft itself.
You can repair broken plastic blade grips by CA gluing the ball end back on, then drill a 1/16" hole thru the center of the ball end into the blade grip itself, insert a piece of 1/16" diameter piano-wire into the hole and secure it with more CA glue, cut the wire flush. This method works great when the LHS run out of replacement blade grips.
I've also seen guys buy 3.8mm ball ends and screw & glue them to the plastic blade grips, so you end up with a plastic blade grip with a metal ball end, still 10 times safer than going to aluminum blade grips.

Rick

If it makes you feel any better, I broke a pair of grips today as well. My 3rd ever heli flight. Glad I ordered some extras a couple weeks ago.

Took it up about 2 feet and it got crazy on me. No blade breakage, using the JCS Flat Bottom Plastics

Better to have the blade grips break than to stop the rotor and short out the ESC.

Ehh, good point(s)... Better to spend $3 learning nose-in than $100 learning how to fix it.....

I know the best motor upgrade is a brushless, but right now I do not have the funds. Is there a brushed motor that works with the AXE other then the stock one?

I was looking at one of these

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXLYA6&P=7

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXLLT5&P=7

With this pinion

http://www3.towerhobbies.com/cgi-bin...?&I=LXLBN1&P=7

Not looking for a super duper increase in performance, just a little better motor then stock.



Thanks.

Dru.

Are you still running your stock batt? The stock motor seems to be perfectly fine for this heli...... Do you just hover around or are you into aerobatics and stuff?

Oh, and as a side note for anyone who DOES want to go brushless, you don't need replace all you onboards. Just use Y-leads for throttle control and power. I tried this just a few hours ago and it worked very well, and the gyro works fine, too. Furthermore, I found that the stock equipment will work with a belt-driven tail and the only electronic part added is a gyro. No speedy, mixer, or Rx needed. Now all I need is a belt-drive tail system and a brushless motor that fits my heli....

This is just a cruiser. I am not able to do the heavy duty 3D stuff. I am doing just FF. Soon I will be back up to rolls and loops and maybe stall turns. I have a nitro bird if I need lots of power. This is just a cruiser. I do not think I am going to go down the shinny aluminum upgrade path with this one. Abut the only upgrade I am looking at is the 240. I have a 10amp ESC already so it should be a drop in fit.


Thanks.

Dru.