I'm using a Tonic Z10 3700kv with a custom 14 tooth pinion, driven by a Castle Creations Phoenix 35 BL ESC & Mega Power 20c 1350mah lipo's. Run time is about 12 minutes in Normal Mode & 8 in Idle-up. Pitch curves are MAXED OUT at +11 & -11, I run ST1 mode at 70% throttle (this is where I mostly play), & ST2 at 90% (runs like a V12 in a SMART CAR)!
The motor never gets hotter than 125 degrees & the lipo's end up around 105 to 108 degrees after a run. If your motor gets HOT after a 8 to 10 minute run, then I would gear-down on the motor pinion. If it's a 15 tooth, try a 14 or 13 tooth (if you can get them to fit your motor shaft). I ended up taking a variety of stock pinions (0.4 pitch), and machining them to a size that would fit the Tonic BL motor with a slight press-fit.
If your Lipo's are swelling after each run &/or are hotter than 120 degrees, than the current draw from the motor is too high. I had this problem with the 15c MP lipo's I had with the stock motor, by upgrading to the MP 20c lipo's it hasn't been an issue anymore.

Shadow

I'm using a 300 HDX 4200kv from helidirect. It's pretty cheap as far as brushless motors go, but it works well. It's aggressive, so I'd get a battery that puts out above 25A and a 30 or 40A esc. Right now I'm in the market for a good battery so I can't really recommend one. I was using a Mega Power 1350mAh 15C batt, for a while, but it got overdrawn a lot (only put out about 20 amps max), so now I'm just trying different batteries out. I'd go with Mega Power again and upgrade to 20C but they were out of stock last time I checked.

Thanks guys. I appreciate the help, if any one wants desent batteries for very cheap hobbycity.com and from what i've heard from the reviews and poeple at the field they r prety good. They also have brushless motors and esc for dirt cheap

What's the place with the cheap batteries, etc? Whatever u wrote down got censored, I think.

ok thats wierd i dont know y that happened wasnt anything inapropriat. it is hobby city.com

K thanks. And yea that store looks pretty solid. I'll probably buy from them soon

Does anyone have a good method for removing and re-inserting the bearings and bushing in the blade grips?

I have replaced my grips one other time before and got it to work by pushing them into the grip with a medium phillips screwdriver.

Last night I was replacing a grip and I couldnt get the bearings to push in by had so i tapped it with a hammer lightly and it blew up my bearing. Im wondering if there is a good "tool" to use for this purpose that wont destroy my replacement bearings that are on the way now

ANy help would be appreciated!

Greg

I use a ball driver that just fits inside the blade grip to push the bearing. Works every time I've used it, even on tight fits.

Is the driver you are using roughly the size of the Inside Diameter of the bearing hole in the grip? I think my problem was that the torx driver I was using fit snugly inside the inside collar of the bearing, and then when I applied pressure, it popped that inside collar out of the bearing.

Yes use a ball driver as big as the hole in the blade grip. You could even use a punch that was as big as the hole in the grip. Use something that just fits in the blade grip. Just re-read your post and yes as big as the inside diameter of the blade grip.

Very good, thanks man!

I use a wooden dowel. Place the grip on the edge of the bench so the ball is hanging over edge. Then press bearings and spacer into the grip with the dowel. Tap dowel with something light (if required).

Hey everyone...

This weekend I was able to install a GY240 and a C-12 ESC. Everything is working great. I can actually hover for a whole pack now. Nice.

My next quest is to install a C-25 ESC for the main motor so I can get rid of the 3-n-1 board. Does anyone have any skematics for the wiring? I have searched and not really found anything.

Any help you guys can give me would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks
Greg

If it ain't broke, Don't fix it. I would worry about flying it before going mod crazy.

Thats cool, but I dont consider a $25 ESC going "mod-crazy". The GY240 may be considered that, but since its already done, lets move on.

I think I figured out the wiring just by looking at it. Thanks for your helpful reply, though.

Greg

Suit yourself, But I would be saving that money for repairs. There is no reason to get rid of the 3-1 unless your is faulty. Since you paid good money for it I would keep it until you get into some forward flight and then switch all of it out for a brushless motor and esc. That way your not out any money in a brushed esc that you will probably never use again. Just a thought.

I recently removed the 3 n 1 and replaced it with a GY240, 25A and 12A brushed ESCs.

A few months earlier I replaced the radio gear with DX7/DS285s/AR6100 and added ball links to the servo control horns.

For me it completely changed the feel of the copter and was well worth it for me. It is much smoother now and fun to mess with the programmable Tx features.

I have the bell/hiller parts waiting but it flys so well (light sport style) I'm not sure when I'll put it on.

Over time I sold ALL the stock electronics on Ebay and applied that to the cost of the "separates" components.

Too bad you can't buy the Axe without the "electricals".

Well its been really windy and rainy here in S. Fla so I had time to take some photos of the "total separates" (brushed) conversion. I have about 40 6min. hovers/light sport flights since the conversion. (Edited for spelling.)

r william Just out of curiosity how much money do you have in your axe cp minus the radio.

r william,

Your work looks very neat.

I'd like to know what brand of esc you used for the tail and main motors.

I notice you have not cut a "notch" in the sides of the main motor heat sink to uncover the motor's cooling vents. My experience has been that the main motor runs much cooler with the cooling vents exposed. Any reason you have left them covered up?

Thanks.

Thanks for the complimetns gents,


The Axe and all mods were bought from Tower H.

Stock CP-L w/$25 discount coupon Jan '08

25A ESC (Main), 12A ESC (Tail) both ElectriFly w/decals removed (June '08).

Futaba GY240 (June '08).

~$130.00 in: damaged/crashed blades, main gear, main shaft, f. spindles, tail boom, and blade grips.

3 additional 11.1v, 910 maH batteries.


As soon as I have to replace the main motor I will modify the heatsink!

Hi all. I puffed my first lipo yesterday in my Axe, I believe by over-disharging it in flight. I am using Mega power 1350 lipo's with a deans micro connector. Are these connectors OK to use or should I go up to the deans ultra? The small connectors wouldn't have caused my puffing would it? Thanks for any help.

My Megapower 1350 20C puffed also, I thought I was pretty careful with it. []

I have a lipo alarm on the heli and the batteries measure in the 3.4- 3.6V range statically when I change them.

Assuming there is nothing wrong with the connector it cannot contribute to overdischarging or puffing the pack. I say nothing wrong in that there is no intermittent shorting going on. That would cetrtainly cause over discharge and batt. damage.

Additionally, if you find the connector warm after flying then that would indicate some other issue causing excessive contact resistance resulting in heat during use. Then I would consider upgrading. I switched to ultra connectors because the new batts. come that way.

RWW

I think I over flew it to be honest. It was my first flight without training gear and I think I lost track of time. The funny thing was that the battery wasn't that hot. It wasn't esactly a marshmallow, it puffed something like 1/8th of an inch on each side. Should I still use it?