$3.43 per foot. In my experience Grainger is expensive for about everything they sell! The only way I'd buy from them is if I could go to the local store and save on shipping charges.

Opps wrong link, the stuff I'm looking at is .25 inside diameter and $18.82 for 100 ft roll. They have a local store I can pick up at. I haven't found a local dealer for snake skin.

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/TEC...XW6?Pid=search

The also have an expandable version and a flame retardant versions in 10 ft lengths. I think I would go expandable in 1/4" $3.53 for 10 ft.

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/TEC...LL4?Pid=search

Hey CFF, I don't think you know what you're talking about. Not everything is overpriced, just what they try to sell you in their emails. (Oops! )
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Yep, you have to be careful what you get from these guys.

Vincent,
The previous owner used the plan built hinges on the aieleron and flaps. He used nylon pin hinges on the tail surfaces. All of which have now been removed. I will be using Robart pins as you did. Robart pins are about the only hinge that can be used on the aileron and flaps because of the pocket type joint this plane has. Yes, i also plan to add the shear webbing to the spars as the original builder did build the plane according to the plans.

Right now I am planning on covering with Ultracote because I don't have a unfinished area in my home to spray paint large things. I can spray some of the smaller items in my attached garage, but thats about it. Even my garage is finished so doing allot of spray painting in there is out. The only problem with covering is I won't be able to include all the detail like rivets etc. Not sure I want to go that route anyway after reading what you had to do.

Anyway, thanks for the feedback.

Tom

Tom,

If you really want to try rivets you could get some rivet tape then use a small diameter brass tubing in a soldering iron to simulate rivets. A true 1/4 scale rivet would be pretty small. I know on my 1/5th scale Ryan SC the factory used 3/16" rivets so a true scale rivet would be .0375 or just slightly more than 1/32". A 1/4th scale 3/16" rivet would be .046875 or 3/64". So how close to scale are a lot of the rivets we see in R/C today? Most of your modern private aircraft like Cessna and Piper use 1/8" rivets according to an old A/P I know.

Rivet tape? What is that exactly?

Tom rivet tape is a strip of tape that has holes evenly spaced where you would apply glue to simulate the rivet heads. (Tapes come in different scale sizes ) http://rcscaleproducts.info/products...-and-14-scale/

An 1/8 inch rivet has a head much bigger than 1/8 inch. It is about 2x the shank diameter. <div>http://www.mcfarlaneaviation.com/Products/?ID=0&amp;PartNumber=MS20470A3-5</div><div></div><div></div>

Thank you Vincent.

Good to know

Tom

Couple of things that I'd like to show you, first it occured to methat I never showed youa photo of the completed tailwheel. Second you can peek into the bottom of my cowland see how Iran the fuel ventline.Isoldered up some tubing and some flat stock to have a more than adequate vent line.

All of the fuel lines have been completed, I'm waiting for tomorrow's mail because I has mis-measured on the links for the ailerons. Oh and by the way...I"MDONE ! The next time you see "Private Ryan" she will be as one....complete and ready for flight.
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Looking Really Good VJ,
I forgot to say" I BEAT YA"
Later!!
Anthony

Nice!  Let me know if you want to go to the new place this weekend.

Vincent,

Very nice. Like they say "It's all in the details"

Tom

Really nice VJ!  Congrats on finishing too!  But I hate to break it to ya buddy, that things just too darn pretty to take outside!  <div>
</div><div>Looking forward to the maiden video!</div><div>
</div><div>Take care,</div><div>David</div>

Vincent,

Thanks for the pics of the tail gear area. I am having trouble with understanding what goes on there. At the very back end of the fuse the plans call for a ABS fairing part PF-2 and PF-3 right and left. The plans aren't very clear how these two fairings are installed. Looking at your pics I also can't tell if you used them or not. Could you explain what you did in that area?

Hope that made sence.

Appreciate it,

Tom

A true work of art Vincent. Congradulation's, a well done love of labor.

Another question. Please forgive me. I hope you don't mind the questions.

In your post #230 you indicate your method for installing the Robart hinges. As you know the joint between the wing trailing edge and the aileron leading edge is not a conventional joint. The pivot point for the hinges has to be set into the aileron quite a bit for the joint to swivel properly. The hinges that are built from the plans have their pivot point right at the back side of the aileron leading edge wood. Looking at your pics of the depth you made your pockets looks like the Robart hinge pivot is well in front of the back side of the leading edge wood.

My question...Did the pivot point location work OK for proper movement of the aileron?

Thanks again

Tom

Thanks Robert, David and Anthony. Anthony you did beat me to the finish line, but she's not in the air yet...LOL

Tom this model has tons of plastic fairings as you know, and I used almost all of them with the exception of the two at the end of the fuse (PF2 and PF3). I chose not to use them and rather carve them from solid balsa to give memore gluing area to better hold the tail fin on. More photos can be found on page #19, Post #464. If you do choose to use the method I used then make sure to taper the ends a bit, it will allow for more left and right rudder deflection. I left mine flat and though I have ample rudder movement it would be a change that I would make if I were to build this model again. I left mine flat because initially I wasn't going to put the plastic covers on the left and right sides of the rudder. Without these pieces I had extreme rudder deflection, however, members of this thread (rightfully so) helped me realize it would look better with these covers intact.

The hinge pockets that I made for the ailerons were a bit tricky but gave me the movement that I was looking for. I didn't measure the angle as I went by eye, I will measure the angle later.

Vincent, Although I came to your thread in the latter stages, I did get to see the "neat stuff".

Your craftsmanship is impeccable, and you have been rewarded with a model that you will enjoy for a long time.

Well done !

Vincent, Tom has it right...Impeccable craftsmanship! My hat's off to anyone who does a build thread. This one, in particular, is well above the standard. A really clean build(and shop), great documentation, and more great photos(when they can be uploaded). I knew it would be a sad day for me when you finished "Private Ryan". I looked forward to the new posts every morning Thanks for letting us tag along for the ride.
Rick

I think it's all been said, but what a ride it's been watching this build. Looking forward to seeing PR all ready to go.

Weather this Saturday and Sunday looks to be just about perfect for a maiden...

Thanks all for the praise, it's well appriciated. Tim a little too soon for the maiden, not rushing it but it will be soon...


And now without delay may I present to you <span style="font-size: larger">"Private Ryan"</span>...

Awesome!  Did you start it and do a range check yet?

Not yet Gary, I'm going to do just that after I set the CG.