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BUSA QS Sopwith Camel

Old 12-01-2014, 02:45 PM
  #51  
Karp050555
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Happy December and as the gang says over at the mall, "Only 24 more shoplifting days until Christmas"!

Todays progress has the basic fuselage box built. You start by building two of the stick built fuselage sides and when they're done, pin them together at the wing saddles to make sure they're identical and if they're not, "Make It So"! I left them pinned together while I prepared formers F2 and F3. The top fuselage crutch is pinned down to the table and F2 and F3 are glued to it making sure they are square with the crutch. Now is when the stick built fuselage sides are glued onto the plywood fuselage sides but it seems they're glued together. Thankfully they came apart with a little help from my Xacto knife. I told you I was going to mess up, didn't I? Ok, fuselage sides are complete and they're identical so they now get glued to the fuselage top crutch and you end up with something like the photo above. The basic box is now complete. Now is the time to make sure your basic fuselage is straight, square, plumb, and level because if it's not, your problems will quickly compound themselves.

I've inhaled enough glue fumes for today so we'll pick up the build tomorrow and mess up something new. "On the first of December my true love gave to me, nail polish remover to get this glue off my hands". Ba dump, dump, dump.
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Old 12-01-2014, 02:56 PM
  #52  
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Here's the basic fuselage structure I finished today. I'll mess it up more tomorrow.
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Last edited by Karp050555; 12-01-2014 at 02:58 PM. Reason: duplicate
Old 12-02-2014, 03:40 PM
  #53  
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It's December 2, 2014 and before we get to the build, it's tool time. Picture #1 is the set of drill bits I usually use and they're too old. My point is if you can't remember when you got your drill bits then you probably need new ones. They're not expensive, make a great stocking stuffer, and it's 22 days until fat ass in the red suit shows up so put your request in. Now, on to the build.

Pictures #2 to #5 are of the completed fuselage box with the tail skid, wing mounting plate, and the forward landing gear mount installed. Great care has been taken to insure everything is straight, level, square, and plumb. Everything has been rough sanded and is ready for tomorrow's step which will be installing the firewall and mounting the engine. Tune in tomorrow for our next exciting chapter!
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Old 12-03-2014, 04:39 PM
  #54  
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Happy December 3, 2014. I started my day having an ingrown toenail being taken care of, eating breakfast at Nifty Fifties, and spending money at Harbor Freight for tools and the dollar store for Christmas candy. Yay.

Pictures #1 and 2 are of the infamous NGH 38cc gas four stroke that will power the beast. It's all assembled and ready for installation. Pictures #3, 4, and 5 show the firewall that's been mapped out for the engine mounts and installed in the fuselage. It's been installed so that the propellor will be about an inch from the cowl for plenty of prop clearance. It's also been installed with the bottom recessed 1/8" more than the top. I like to build my downthrust into the model. I'll take care of the right thrust with washers.

Pictures #6 and 7 show the building of the front deck which is made from two formers, stringers, and the forward cabane mount. Just make sure everything is centered and square. BTW, guess what day it is? It's Hump Dayyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyyy y! Pictures #8 thru 13 show the construction of the "hump" substructure. Tomorrow I'll install the cockpit outer skin. Can't wait can you? Tune in tomorrow for our next chapter of "The Mad Doctor Builds An Airplane". Until then, keep on glueing!
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Old 12-03-2014, 05:02 PM
  #55  
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Thanks for the pictures, sounds like you are having fun building.

Take care
Rich
Old 12-04-2014, 04:15 PM
  #56  
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Howdy. Today we made more progress on "The Hump". The forward and rear decking veneer (photo #1) has been installed around the cockpit. Great pains have been taken to keep this stuff from being messed up as I plan on staining it rather than paint or covering. Keep that in mind when working with the veneer. Photo #2 show the underside of the rear decking. I had to add some wood to the F4 former so I would have something to glue the veneer to. It's nothing more than scrap balsa that has been glued on and then cut to shape.

Photo #3 is of a torpedo level that you can buy for cheap just about anywhere. While looking at the rear of my fuselage, I realized I had a twist at the end which would cause all sorts of problems in the near future and now's the time to fix it. Photos #4 and 5 show just how much this bugger was off. Utilizing my level at the forward edge of "The Hump", the rear edge of of "The Hump", and my stab saddle, I now get the same level reading and we can move forward tomorrow. The sermon is ended. Glue in peace.
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Old 12-05-2014, 02:25 PM
  #57  
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Happy Friday everyone. The Camel is starting to look like an airplane. In photo #1 I'm test fitting the stab and making sure it's in its proper location. Center the stab to the fuselage rear and pin it in place. Now measure the distance on each side from the firewall to the rear tip of the stab (photo #1). The measurement should be the same on both sides. If not, adjust as necessary. When it is, draw lines on the bottom of the stab to show where it gets attached in relation to the fuselage. Photo #2 show the view from the stab looking forward. The stab is parallel to the back of the deck former which means it's level. If not, make it so. Photo #3 shows all the stringers are in place and we'll get to the next step on Monday. Tune in then. Bye.
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Old 12-09-2014, 03:41 PM
  #58  
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Happy December 9, 2014 and only 15 more shoplifting days until Christmas! Yay!

I only have two photos for today but they're of where I ended. The basic hump is built, the side cheeks are installed, and have received their first coat of varnish stain. I plan on doing three coats. If you plan on staining the wood versus painting, it's important that you get your edges as perfect as possible and you keep the wood glue free. Make sure your surface is clean and dust free before you start applying the varnish stain. Stain will color the glue but will not penetrate and it'll stick out like a sore thumb. If you've never used varnish stain, remember it's very thin and will run all over so keep your coats as thin as possible. It's a good idea to scuff between coats with 4 OOOO steel wool and to wipe down the surface with a tack cloth before painting on the next coat. It's best if you use a natural bristle brush as opposed to a disposable foam brush and always brush in one direction only. Remember, you're painting on varnish; not paint. I'm actually using Minwax polyurethane with stain in it and it's an oil product so it will be fuel proof. It'll take 24 hours to dry. I also fitted in the lower wing and installed the dowels and nylon bolts. Until tomorrow, keep on glueing.

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Old 12-09-2014, 04:58 PM
  #59  
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Thanks for the photos. I had looked up the engine and they only showed photos from an angle that didn't show the carb. Very impressive looking. Can't wait for a full flight report on it.
Old 12-11-2014, 09:53 AM
  #60  
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Captain Chicken here. I found out I don't know how to solder so I wired up my cabanes and coated the joints with J B Weld. I know it ain't pretty but it does work. Perhaps one day I will learn to solder.
Old 12-15-2014, 06:05 AM
  #61  
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Anyone with a dusted sopwith project? I love this plane............................................. .
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Old 12-15-2014, 02:04 PM
  #62  
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I can see why
Old 12-16-2014, 06:37 PM
  #63  
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Nah.. her CG is all messed up. Her undercarriage is too thin and shes way too top heavy. But I would not know where to add any lead weight!
Old 12-16-2014, 10:56 PM
  #64  
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Greetings Fellow Balsa Bashers! The Doctor is in! I tried to build my cabanes using J B Weld but it would not hold so I went to one of our club members and got a quick lesson on how to solder (thank you Ed). Photo #1 show the right cabane completed and installed with the cross braces also installed. The setup of these is very important as this determines the incidence on the top wing. The next step will be to install the top wing, make the struts, and their cross braces. Photo #2 show the landing gear installed with the two sections soldered together, the brass axle soldered on, the wheel attached, and the brass axle drilled through to accept the 1/16" cotter pin. The wheels spin freely but without noise which is what you want. Photo #3 shows the bottom wing with all of its cap stripping installed and there were many to be attached. They have also been attached to the top wing (not shown). Both wings will get one last sanding and they'll be ready for covering. Photo #4 shows our progress to date. It's starting to look like an airplane. Now for the sermon.

Little jobs like soldering aren't hard to do so long as you have the proper tools. The axle assembly was soldered together using a propane torch in a process called sweating. You've probably seen a plumber do this. It's not hard but it takes practice and perseverance. The solder lugs and the cross braces on the cabanes were assembled using an 80 watt soldering iron. You can't use a torch as you would set the airplane on fire and don't think you can use a Hobbico soldering iron or one you'll pick up in Radio Shack, Home Depot, or Lowes. At best, these are 20-25 watts. Remember, the right tool for the right job. My friend Ed used an 80 watt iron and that's probably the lowest you would want. You need as wide a tip as you can get. And, speaking of my friend Ed, here's our next topic. Friends and clubs.

Join a club and make friends. There's a saying that nobody is smarter than all of us. If you join a club you will find a wealth of knowledge, experience, and people who are more than willing to help out the new guy in building or flying his plane. My club holds events at our field, how to do it seminars at our meetings, and we travel near and far to show our skills (or lack of) at other flying field and at small and major air shows. I had the privilige to fly at the open house at McGuire AFB in Wrightstown, NJ last May. The USAF gave me and another club member our own private rooms in the on base hotel which is used by transient officers. This place was on par with any of the best hotels I've ever stayed in and the kicker was that we were on the same wing as the Army Golden Knights and the USAF Thunderbirds. They were really nice people. This wouldn't have happened without my club affiliation. And, our members and their families are more like extended family than just a bunch of guys I fly airplanes with. So, join a club and learn to things the right way. The sermon is ended, solder your pieces together in peace.

BTW, only 7 more shoplifting days left until Christmas!
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Old 12-17-2014, 09:30 AM
  #65  
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Karp, I have been modeling since 1973, and I don't I have met a modeler who was not a good guy. I spent 26 yrs in the military and traveled around world.

Merry Christmas
Rich
Old 12-17-2014, 10:31 AM
  #66  
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Keep looking. There are despicable *******s hiding everywhere.
Old 12-17-2014, 10:55 AM
  #67  
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that 5% will get you every time
Old 12-17-2014, 06:59 PM
  #68  
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Yeah. You come talk to me about cap stripping ribs. ..




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Old 12-17-2014, 07:33 PM
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a651, what is that you're building?
Old 12-19-2014, 12:19 PM
  #70  
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Did some looking on the internet Found that Tamiya XF 10 Brown and XF 62 olive drab were in this persons opinion the factory delivered colors for the Camel A friend just got done painting his Jap Nick fighter with latex paint he got mixed at the local paint shop WOW looks great They mixed him a "sample " just the right amount he needed The 3 view I have of the camel is brown I might give that a try Good Idea ????
Old 12-21-2014, 12:46 PM
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Hey, it's December 21st and there's only 4 more shoplifting days until Christmas. I have all my presents wrapped and under the tree except one but that one is just a card with money in it. The decorations are up and everything is lit and on Christmas day I'll be as well. To the build, Batman.

Photo #1 shows the cabanes installed as well as the upper and lower wings. If I did it right, this thing may actually be able to fly. I learned how to do the solder joints (photo #2) and now I need to learn how to not completely cook them. I'm told the secret is to remove the heat when the flux is boiling and the solder is melting and running. How do you get to Carnegie Hall? Practice! Photo #3 shows the cabanes and the wonderful job Ed did soldering. Thanks Ed. Photo #4 is of the natural wood finish on the fuselage front and sides. I used Minwax polyurethane with stain in it. This is coat three so they're done. I learned the fine art of woodgraining many years ago and the secret is to make multiple thin coats so it doesn't run all over the place. Keep checking it within the first hour and brush out any runs you may have acquired. Just remember to brush in one direction and for the length of the wood. This will get a thin coat of clear gloss just before the covering is done. This is going to look great.

Tune in tomorrow when I attempt to screw up something else.
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Old 12-21-2014, 04:42 PM
  #72  
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You should stain all the wood and put clear material over it - that would look unique............
Old 12-21-2014, 05:24 PM
  #73  
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That's a great idea. Where do I buy this clear fabric to iron onto my plane?
Old 12-21-2014, 05:56 PM
  #74  
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I have no idea ............ LOL

The stain does look great...........

Keith
Old 12-22-2014, 02:53 PM
  #75  
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"It's beginning to look alot like an airplane, every single day". Hidey ho builders! Here's todays progress. In photo #1 I decided to hinge the elevators and rudder and test fit the tail feathers on the bird. So far so good. The cabanes are built so I installed the wood (photo #2) and gave them a coat of varnish stain. Looking good! Since that went so well I installed the wood (photo #3) on the landing gear and gave them a coat. Tune in tomorrow when I do something else. Until then, keep on glueing!
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