rate1,
Its been a long time since I've built one of these, but I do have some photos of my Lanier 1/4 scale Lazer around still. I'll try and get some up that might help out. The big thing is keeping the weight down. I drilled lightening holes every where I could to keep it light and I also moved the elevator and rudder servos to the rear.

Steve, thank you for that input. Do you remeber what engine you had in your 1/4scale Extra and how the performance was? Weight of the aircraft, autority of the control surfaces, knife edge, landings ect. Were you satisfied with your plane?

Yes please, I would love to see your pictures as any kind of help is appreciated.

The more I think about enlarging the rudder and elevator the more tempted I am getting. Thinking about purhaps give a wood built up replacement a go...

Guys, I just found out that Fiberglass Specialties sell the front hatch cover made out of fiberglass for $ 27. This could be an intresting and a more durable alternative to the stock ABS plastic and a fragile home made wood replacement.

http://www.fiberglassspecialtiesinc.com/catalog.htm

Said and done, I have placed an order for Fiberglass Specialties front cover hatch made of fiber glass.

Rate1, etal.

I know it seems like you're talking to yourself here, but I got one of these kits to put together. I can't start it right away, but I've been reading your builds and have been finding some good tips.

Any thoughts on building it with a Gas motor. I've been thinking about a 3W 28, or if it ever comes out the BME 55X

Dan

I am also building the Lanier 25% extra. So far, I have finished the wing. I am trying to keep mine as light as possible (of course) and plan on powering it with a saito 150. I will also post some pics of it as it progresses.
Kyle

Rate1 wanted to go gas, but unfortunately he can't at the moment since he lives in a studio, and one wouldn't want to stink up the place with a gas engine. So he'll be going glow. Personally, I think glow would be ideal for this airplane since I hear they build heavy and need to be light to fly well.

Pizza Man,
I like this kit eventhough it is fairly old design. However since it is a kit it leaves plenty of options to modify and make it just the way you would like. As Zope Pope stated, I belive the optimal engine for this plane is a large glow. However if it's not necessary with best possible weight to thrust ratio I belive a 28 gasser would be a good option. Just mind the weight as others that have build this plane like it if keep under 13 lbs. Apparently anything more than that 13 lbs and it will be a pig. Dont forget that this plane was designed with a glow engine in mind. Allthough that could be changed with these new small light weight gassers that are on the market now a days.

3Dr,
I have not decided on what engine to get. I am looking at the YS 140sport, second hand YS 140 DZ, YS 160, and the new OS FS 200. I recived a PM from a guy who used a Saito 150 in it and claimed it was a perfect match. I am an OS guy but in the same time would like to see what all the hype about YS is all about. Lets see wich engine I end up with.

Guys, do get started/going with your builds and post pictures as you move along. Myself are busy for the moment but are hoping to pick up my build very soon. I am looking forward to see your progress.

All the guys I have had contact with that have experience with this plane, have all recomended me to keep the flying weight down. If low weight it will be a nice plane that you will enjoy. If it's too heavy it will snap on tight loops and have poor slow speed capabilities. As stated before, my target weight vise for this build is 11 lbs and I belive I will end up close to that mark.

Further, I recently recived the Fiberglass Specialties Front hatch, to replace the stock ABS. The weight of the stock ABS hatch is 77 grams (2,7 oz), while the replacement fiberglass one is 88 grams (3,1 oz). Dispite the heavy weight of the hatch it is still of good quality. I am a bit disapointed that it is this heavy but I still prefere a plane without plastic and will go ahead and use this fiberglass piece.

Hi Rate1

Could you please post a piccy of F/G Speciaties hatch cover...Methinks this might do for me also.

As a reminder, a YS 140 is going into mine with a Don Harris smoke muffler and Graupner tanks but I believe Don has retired fom thr muffler business

Kind regards

Superworm

Hello Superworm,

I certainly can do. I recomend the fiberglass hatch eventhough it is slightly hevier than stock, it is more solid, has a great finish, and offer a better quality plane in the end. I suppose F/G specialties cowl is of great quality as well, allthough I opt to include the Lanier F/G cowl with my order of this kit.

For the moment I am thinking on how to attach the front hatch as there is several ways of doing it. Obviosly I would like it to be as neat as possible. Have in mind that the fiberglass cowl does not go over the F1 former, but stay flush to F1. With this in mind the instructions call for the front hatch to overlap F1 former thus the forward edge of the front hatch will be exposed and giving a less attractive finish. This is not desired.

Hatch to the left is made out of F/G, the right one is the stock ABS. Also I have allready attached the ply former at the rear of the F/G hatch.

Hi Rate1..thanks for the piccies...very useful

with regards to If the front hatch goes over F1 as per drg, doesn't it then meet up with and be flush with the back edge of the cowl which is positioned by the Cowl former (CW1/CW4)??. There is not supposed by any step anywhere around the periphery of the cowling !

As I understand, and I could be wrong, the front hatch front edge does not meet the rear edge of the cowl. As the cowl is flush with the forward former, F1, and the front hatch overlaps F1, there will be a visable edge from the front hatch...

Ways to solve this could be to not let the front hatch overlap F1, or to sand F1 so the front hatch meets the rear edge of the cowl.

Hi Rate1

Plse check again.....but I'll have to dig out my formers>>>

The cowl former (CW1) should be exactly the same size as former FI. With the cowl overlapping CW1 and the hatch overlapping F1 as per drawing, then there should be no visible edge showing at the join..there will only be the join line showing with no protusions of either edge...it should be flush all the way around.....that is one of the things that I liked about this model....all the ARFs and most of the kits (including all my other Extras and my Goldberg Ultimate) have the cowls overlapping the structure underneath...not scalish at all!

Cheers

Hi Rate1

I have dug out my formers and you are absolutely correct. Former F1 is too big around the top edge even tho' the drawing does not show it so. The Cowl Former CW1 has to line up with the engine box sides and the corresponding cut-outs in F1. This gives extra material over the top arc of F1 which will be even worse when the top hatch is positioned over F1 as per drawing.. Methinks the only way will be to sand off the excess at the top and upper corners of F1 so that the cowling and top edge of the hatch line up at the joint. I'm presuming your F1 former is now glued in place but if you use CW1 as a template positioned on the engine box to locate it then you should be able to draw round it (or the cowling if attached to CW1 and make the necessary adjustment to the cut line to allow for the thickness of the pencil/scribe line and/or the thickness of the cowling if attached.

I've drawn a big arrow complete with question mark on my F1 so I'll remember to trim as required. Good luck

Cheers

Superworm,

Sanding down F1 former to match the CW1 former is exactly what I have been contemplating about. I just want to make sure I am chosing the right route on this one as there is no turning back when starting to sand F1. Also, considering my limited building experience I am afraid to make visable mistakes. However I agree with you that this way is probably the best way of solving the problem and to get a nice end result. Another easier, but much less satisfactory, way could be to sand a transition on the hatch so it meets the cowl without a rising ridge. A third way would be to not let the hatch overlap F1 former, but instead rest on H1 former alone, wich would then be the very front end of the hatch. This last option is going to be flush with the rest of the front top part of the fuz but have less strenght compered to the way you suggested.
Uncertain if the instructions are correct written, meaning that there could be a chance that the designer actually ment that the hatch would end at H1 former and not overlap F1. This as the H1 is supposed to be glued together with the hatch, and the hight of H1 together with the hatch has the same hight as the F1 former, hence giving a flush front fuz. However, if I would follow the instructions there is no way I could glue H1 former together with the hatch and let the hatch overlap F1 former in the same time.

Looking at the attached piture, taken from above and rear looking forward. You can see that the H1 former, front rest/end of the hatch, is actually lower than the F1 former, and when putting the hatch ontop of H1 the fuz is then flush. I hope you understand what I am trying to explain.

Tricky one Rate1

I should go with plan "A"....the cowling and the hatch have to be in alighnment for the full extent of the hatch (width wise) with the hatch overlapping FI so that there is only a "witness" line of the join as stated on the plan "Note: Hatch overlaps F1 and ends here" which is at the front side of F1. It should be flush to the extent of the hatch. The hatch of course is permanently attached to H1. Just be carefull and keep checking as you sand down F1. Have you glued the cowling to CW1 yet ??

Plans "B" will weaken the hatch (and probably still show a "bump") and "C" will leave you with 2 witness lines and you'll never finish off a raw plywood edge the same as the surface of a fibre glass part.

I was also thinking of adding a sliver of wood the fwd few inches of fuselage sides if a ridge was left from the cowling since solartex or film isn't as thick as the f/g cowl if you see what I mean.....I'm looking for the cowling to be flush with the rest of the fuse all the way around the cowl except for air exits, at the bottom.



Cheers

Guys,

Sorry for my absens on this thread caused by me starting a new job and moving to a new apartment. This forced my build to be on hold for awhile. However things are now coming to order and I am looking forward to soon resume my construction. My deadline is spring/summer this year.

Superworm,
For the reasons you meantioned, regarding front hatch attachment, I am leaning towards alternative A as well.

Have you made any progress on your build since last? Perhaps a picture or two?
I know your target with this build is scale and by the looks of it you are making great progress, eg. your elev hinge line is to die for, just mind the weight. If weight concious you will have a great looking AND flying plane.

Alternative A. Smooth transition from cowl to hatch... Some lightening holes on the hatch.

Once again my build is on hold due to a new job requiring all my attention. As soon as things are calming down I will try to finish this build.

Rate1
Sorry I haven't gotten back to you I don't really have time to spend much time on RCU I just found your messages I flew mine last fall it flew great until the pressure line came off the muffler and the engine quit the dead stick landing was a little hard but it survived I plan to make it a priority to fly this season The engine looks and sounds great I wanted to put a gasser into it but I was told it would shake it to much so I ended up with a Saito 182 twin awsome engine[img][/img]

Spitflier,
Great looking plane, good to hear that you like it. I certainly would like to see some more close up pictures of it if possible...or even a video clip...
Myself have been forced to put my build on hold because of a new job (flying the B737). Basically I have not build anything more on my kit since my last post. Eventhough I am constantly thinking about getting it done and getting it in the air.
Once again mate, great looking plane.

Well boys, some of you might belive this thread has steped back into the grave since there have been little action here lately. To the I can say that I have once again picked up my kit after a time out. Obvioulsy much delayed as I surely will not manage to maiden it this summer...bummer. Regardless, at least the build is now once again slowly progressing forward.

The current steps in my build is the hinge lines and an enlarged balsa built rudder and elevator (lets see how they turn out?). Also my outline for hardware is getting clearer.

Servos aquired for this plane; Elevator and Ailerons HS5645, Rudder HS5955, Throttle HS std digital (ofcourse Airwild and SWB arms)
Nice tailwheel and awesome PSP mfg wheel axels
After the latest review I am leaning heavily towards the new OS200.

Rate1,

I'm still lurking here, and am interested in your build. It's definitely flying season here, and I can only manage the repairs and other maintenance on what I'm flying right now.

I have managed to do some acquiring for mine. The LHS closed down, so I'm having to build up an inventory of parts. My basement is starting to look like a hobby store.

I found a source of contest grade and other weights of balsa on the road between here and my parents, so I drive by there several times a year. They will even make the pre-glued wing skins for me. (I hate gluing balsa then sanding. It's hard to get it even and straight.) They will glue the blocks together before they trim it down to 1/16 inch. I tried them out on a small project, and like what I got. I'll build my own balsa rack and make an order to fill it this fall.

I ordered a roll of low temp polycover for covering a wing I'm re-building to see how I like it. (This is also where I tried the contest grade.) It definitely seems lighter than the other coverings I was considering.

I got a cowl from Fiberglass Specialties. I think I'll like it better. I'm also planning on doing the turtle deck in sheeted foam. I'm not a fan of the ABS. Especially since I'm going to try to go gas. I ordered a BME 44. (I got tired of waiting for the 55, especially since it seems to be getting larger. I got a deal on a 29 percent edge kit for later. Maybe the 55 will be a good choice by then.)

You are making your own balsa rack... [X(] Cool, I am sure it will be very handy for your builds.

Yup I this the BME 44 is a good call as I belive the 55 will be far too much for this plane. I have done some measurement and I think I came to the conclusion that a 20" prop is about the biggest that will go on this plane with stock gear. Perhaps a 21" if every landing will be a 3 pointer or operation from asphalt/concrete.

As soon I am done with what is currently on the building table I will start to look into the turtle deck.