Thanks for your reply.
I know all that
As i said ... I would take hit for 52 engine if I could be shure that chinese ASP 52 is comparable with for eg. OS max 52.
I dont want a rocket.. but I'm afraid that this ASP is not so strong. So wondering if ASP 61 will be more close to OS max 52
Thats all I want to know .. Still searching this info
If I could buy Os max .. I would take 52 for shure!

Didn't see those ASP engines working before

Hi you guy,
just to say flycfii what a great build thread has help me building my smith minplane

I love these planes have done for i long time just didnt have the time or money to get around to buying and building one

I've converted mine to electric using a Himodel R4130 which i have on 6 cells( did have fun getting c of g right[sm=50_50.gif]) but got it in the end by cutting a hatch out (forktail devil idea thanks) inbetween the undercarriage so could get the batterys right next to firewall
Just have to wait for a good day to maiden her now,which in uk looks a long way off ![]

will post some pics ive taken

rob

Hi all,

Managed to get a maiden in today what a lovely aircraft to fly
loads of power with my setup but have one question i hope someone can answer for me .

when i landed of course the metal flex's but the wood from around the landing gear doesnt so broke off [](i have read somewhere about this)
has anyone else come across this if so is there a way other then using wood to get the same affect so it is more flexible

many thanks rob

My gear fairings are from soft balsa and wrapped with tissue and dope before painting.
They're only attached to the wire, and not the fuselage bottom (only touch it, but not bonded to it).
Have flown it a lot, no problems at all.

nice plane EF
what glue have you used to connect them onto wire !?!

mine same as yours only out of soft balsa and not connected to fuselage bottom but havent used tissue,dope do you think if i cover them in ultracote it will be better as it will hold them together (just a thought!) otherwise will have to think of something else

rob

Was just 'gifted' one of these.....needs recovering.

?how much should this one wiegh? [no, I didn't get the plans or the manual]

FA[8D]

I used wood glue made by the Bison company. Strong and flexible.
Not sure about the Ultracote, never tried it.
You might consider glassing the fairings and then painting.

hi
FokkerAce it's in the Manual (only joking)

all up weight is around the 5.5Ibs mark but mine weights in at 6.2Ibs and still flys great

EF
Think i will try the covering first as not going to lose anything if it comes off anyway but just thought i might get some airfoilshaped aluminium and try that !?!

rob

Don't like those aluminum tubes on landing gear, they're very soft and quickly develop "injuries".

Believe me, tissue or silk and dope is an excellent way, I used it on all struts on this model (and the rest of the model is covered with Dave Brown Skyloft).

EF
Think your right with Alu idea was just a thought ,never used tissue and dope before so should be fun

many thanks for your help

Rob

hi all

Look @ what they are reviewing in RCME this month
http://www.modelflying.co.uk/editor...ag_Latest_Issue

THE SIG SMITH MINI PLANE

rob

[sm=biggrin.gif]

And it says:

"Sig Smith Mini Plane - Can traditional building still satisfy? "

Well the answer to that is a big YES, so what's there to write about?
Pitty I can't get a copy.

BTW, I hope the article starts of with an explanation of what "building" means
Amazingly, too many people confuse ARF assembly with building.

hi

EF your right about the ARTF , nice pics
if you want i can send the article to you will scan it in and email you in PDF format

Rob

Thanks! read the article, it's very nice.

I certainly agree it was a joy to build, and although not a large model, it is very conveniently sized yet still gives a sense of accomplishment.

I agree it has a tendency to climb, and should have had in my opinion a bit of positive incidence in the tail (1.5-2 deg).

I don't agree about the individual aileron servos.
As designed - with one central servo and torque rods, it works great and has nothing showing on the outside, otherwise there's a horn, pushrod, servo arm, and slot in the wing.
No need to free up space in the fuselage, there's plenty.

It does fly exceptionally well, lands very easy, I always manage to three-point it on the runway center.

Thinking, maybe I should get myself another kit in case they stop doing it...

hi

I agree with the single servo on the ailreons no need for the two, as i have only flown this once ,weather as normal here in UK
what movement have you got on your ailreons have got 1/2" up and down as i found didnt roll to good ,but most biplanes dont without four ailreons [sm=idea.gif]
new kit 4 ailreons

also with next kit will try cutting as much weight off as i can, as said in mag well over -engineered

Rob

I have a bit more aileron movement - around 15 mm up but only 10 or so down.
The differential realy helps making more axial rolls, sometime having more effect than the actual range of movement.

I also set the dual rate to give another 20% movement, but really very rarely use it.

Hello,
hardnut - Thx for the pdf
Here is photo of my Smih's mini. taken from today. And in how's it look its after 35 hours of work. Well first time I've decidet to count time (start to end of work each day and comment what was done) When I'll finish, i'll post a schedule . I think building smiths is so much fun. It's my first kit, in past I've done only scratch building, but I was a child then. I've decidet that te powerplant for it will be an ASP 61 FS. hope not to strong, and covering with Coverall, with box scheme painting . Just cant wait for finish

Looks like a fun build .I built a sig skybolt 60 size its bilt almost the same way only a little bigger .Its my favorite plane to fly .I also have a 40 smith mini still in the box and will be following the build .verry nice.....talk to later..

hi
nice pic okier looks like you have been working hard on the smith [8D]
like i've said lovely plane to fly once you have it up in the air you dont want to bring it down

please post some more pics when you have finished the covering

rob

Hardnut

I have a Miniplane and became frustrated with the trim on the U/C coming off. I have since used plastic page binders on mine and have also added them to the N struts. Fuelproof, the correct airofoil shape and smart looking to boot. I'll get a pic and mail it here.

Is anyone having issues with 2strokes overheating inside the cowl? Mine flies fine without a cowl but as soon as I mount the cowl the engine gradually tightens and is clearly getting too hot.

I'm using a Webra speed 40 with a bisson pitts muffler and it has enough power to hover my mini.

Chrispeace

Thanks for the idea about the plastic book binders ,as i have said before i have covered them with solarfilm but have only flown it twice since then (great british weather and work[&o]) so will try that if mine still doesnt work.

im afraid i can't comment on the problem you are having with your engine as i have used electric in mine ,only thing i can say is if you can hover then you must have loads of power i would try a smaller prop ! (less power/less heat) as this is not a 3d model 30+year old design

rob

Crispeace,
Nice looking plane! An idea on cooling with the cowl on. Looks like your exit air area on the bottom of the cowl is very small. I would suggest increasing that in size to at least twice the inlet air area. Also the inlet air coming in the cowl blisters on the side could just be exiting out the back side of the blister if that is open. You might try to redirect this inlet air down with a couple of diflectors so that the motor is in the cool air blast. Not trying to tell you what to do, just some thoughts. Again, very nice plane.
JEB

Thanks for this. I will give the advice a chance.

http://www.netaxs.com/mhmyers/rc.tn.html

If you guys are still out there you might want to see this fellas smoke conversion to his Miniplane. Look towards the bottom of the page for the Miniplane photos and video.

ChrisPeace

More Pics. Have blanked off one inlet to change the inlet vs outlet ratio. The outlet underneath is now a lot bigger with the pitts silencer on so that should help. I will see how that affects the cooling once the British weather turns nice again.