I haven't built a kit id about 20 years, so wanted to get to to speed with glues. Is there a problem with using a CA for gluing ribs, formers, etc. to spars? Of is wood glue still the best choice?

Thanks.

If you're not affected by the fumes, CA glues work just fine and they expedite assembly time. I still like epoxy for firewalls and other "high stress" areas for peace of mind though.

I use Great Planes Ca glue and epoxy. I don´t like wood glue.

You can build strong plane with Ca or wood glue. I prefer epoxy in firewall, joining wing halves and other stressfull plases.

Like has been said, if you can tolerate the CA fumes, it builds very strong wings. You just need to be sparing with it, because it is not sandable, and will leave bumps in your finished model if it drips. I stopped using it, except in places where I need a quick hold and I can't easily pin something to shape, such as odd-angles, etc. If a drop accidentally dries where I don't want it, I shave it off with a razor rather than trying to sand it.

Make sure you use it in a well ventilated area, where the fumes are drawn away before they get to your face, and your tolerance for the stuff will last much longer.

Good luck.

As mentioned the CA glues will work just fine for the wing ribs. You also want to get a thicker CA, also known as gap filling, as this will allow you some working time to make a minor adjustment if needed. They also make an accelartor for CA glue that you can spray on the thicker CA glue's to aid in drying once you have the parts the way that you want them. Good Luck, Dave

CA is by far the best, strongest, quickest and easiest method of building. Use thin CA on balsa to balsa joints and thick on plywood. Use a combination on balsa to ply.

Hold the pieces in place, place a drop about every 1/4" - 1/2" along the joint line, and hold for about 15 seconds. On ply to balsa joints, use thin first and let it soak into the joint, then follow with thick.

Dr.1

Other than speed CA has no saving graces. I'd strongly suggest you use epoxy when needed and a soft glue such as Titebond III for everything else. After all, it's a hobby not a production line.

I returned to the hobby after a similar layoff and naturally started using the new glues. The fumes bothered me for the first few months but I stubbornly kept using it. Eventually though I developed a severe allergic reaction to CA.

Thanks guys. Looks like CA will be good where I need a faster hold. My concern was with strengths--looks like it's not an issue.

I like wood glue as well--will be used as well for sure!

i agree with don41 about wood glue,ca has its place i use it when i need to tack things down but it does leave hard places to sand.wood glue/titebond is what i use for most of my building.but i do use ca when i need something held in place fast.i have done whole builds with mostly ca and epoxy.and have not had problems with strength.i like wood glue better though as far as finishing sanding and such.ca is also murder on monokote and other coverings,if you have accidents.

I beg to differ. Quickest, probably. Easiest, ever tried to sand that stuff? Strongest, there are stronger. Best........well, the most popular maybe.

It's been mentioned many times on this thread, if you can handle the fumes.

Check out Super 'Phatic, it's lighter, stronger, easier to sand, than CA's. It won't bond to your skin, AND the best part is there are NO fumes and vapours to attack your eyes, nose or sinuses. The only real downside, if you consider it a downside is, it takes 20 minutes to set up, 2 hours to reach full strength. It's a yellow carpenters glue treated to be thinner, so it will wick into wood, plastic & foam and cure much faster than regular wood glues.

Use what works for you, and if CA is what you like then great! But if you don't like the fumes from CA, try a bottle of Super 'Phatic you won't be disappointed.

You can get it at Hobby Lobby in the US or www.ontarioadhesives.ca in Canada. Elsewhere, check with the manufacturer's website at: www.deluxematerials.com/

Chris

Much as I dislike the fumes I can't deny CA makes framing up wings a wonderful thing. I use Titebond II for a lot of my gluing, but I do the wings with CA.

The only time I use wood glue is if I have a large piece to be glued - Like a doubler

Rather than waste all that CA, I'll run a bead of wood glue all over the doubler, but I'll keep it away from the corners and a few strategic places in the center.

Then add a drop of meduim CA to those areas and hold it in place for about 20 seconds so the CA can set.

Other than that, i use CA almost exclusively (Except where 30 minute epoxy is necessary) and avoid the fumes

I find I'm using Tightbond more then CA and it's nto really slowing me down much..
It only takes 5-10 minutes before it's set enough to be workable.

I also find I'm making stronger joints.. not because the glue is stronger (it's not) but because I can go back over a glue line and make sure I have an even coat before putting the parts together.

I've found when I'm repairing my old CA built planes I come across weak spots where the glue missed the joint or didn't have complete coverage.

One thing you can't to do with CA is go back over a line of glue and spread it out with your finger or well anythign else really.. You get what you get..

I CA built one plane and it's a nightmare trying to finish sand when invariably there is a bit of it worked it's way to an outside surface. It's like sanding steel and if you try n peel it off, you damage the balsa also. I've used titebond the last couple kits, with limited CA use and I love how nice n clean the kits finish out