You're complaining about my flogging? Got you building didn't I??? [8D]

As a matter of fact you did r2champion ... thanks, its was just what I needed!

Build looks good so far MasterAlex, good luck with the rest of it.

Also, I might need you to return the favor, to get me on the building table as well!

Not much more progress made over the weekend - NFL Playoffs sucked the energy from me.

The next step of the build is to affix the leading edge. Now, I use a combination of CA and Wood Glues throughout my building. Anyplace I'm potentially going to sand almost always gets the Titebond. The leading edge is one of those places where I use Titebond instead of CA.

The method I used was to first dry-fit the LE onto the ribs. I clamped it on and marked where the glue went. I only did this on one side of the LE. Next, I unclamped and placed a bit of Titebond onto the bottom portion of the notch on each rib (see picture1). Next, I ran a small bead on the marked leading edge, replaced and clamped. Worked out well in my opinion - we'll see how much this pays off later when sheeting.

Whenever using CA, regardless of how careful I am, I always get the tip clogged. A little trick I learned here on RCU keeps me from getting too frustrated with that ... next time you're in the LHS, pickup some additional CA bottle tips and caps. While you're there, pickup some Acetone (local hardware store may have a better price). Next time your CA bottle tip clogs, don't throw it away. Unscrew it and toss it into a jar of Acetone. A few hours later and it's a good as new! I get in the habbit of cleaning my CA tips after every gluing session. I always keep some fresh (sealed) tips on-hand to seal my CA during the cleaning process - also keeps the air out. Which for some reason, I think is good.

Next up - Truing up the trailing edge sheeting.


Picture1 - Notch glued, notice mark on leading edge where I also glued
Picture2 - Glogged CA tip
Picture3 - Acetone Bath
Picture4 - LE Secured and curing

When I first looked at the steps for the wings in the manual, I thought to myself - not too bad, "I ought to blast through most of the upper wing in a few days". I should know better!

The first step on the trailing edge sheeting is to true up the edges and then cut them to 1". Now I know some guys that might skip this step thinking - "Hey, SIG's a great vendor, their wood is going to be straight and true - no need for me to waste time getting this puppy true..." Wrong Col. Sanders!!

Take a look at pictures1 and 2. This is the finished "trued" piece of sheeting directly from the kit. I about fell over when I held this against the straightedge - it looked like the lips of a smiley face! It was bowed that bad. I had to take pictures once I got it true. Picture1 is a measurement taken from the center and Picture2 is taken from the edge.

Of course, the second piece was virtually true to start with ... go figure.

Now that the sheeting is trued and cut its a matter of "glue and go", right? Well not in my case...

Now, I am about to show my anal retentive side - I'm feeling a bit vulerunable here - but this gives you a peek into my psyche.

The picture in the manual shows someone using Thin CA to affix the bottom section of the TE to the underside of the ribs - of course there's nothing holding this to the ribs ... at least nothing in the picture. So I think to myself, "how are you going to hold that TE sheeting onto the underhang of the ribs while at the same time gluing?". "Not well", was my answer!

So I came up with a cheesy solution - but it worked, so I can use it 2 more times (left and right wings)!

I figured, why not brace the sheeting from underneath? So I grabbed some scrap 1/4" balsa and fabricated 10 braces that fit under the TE sheeting and keeps it flush under the ribs. Brilliant, says the Guiness guy!

It ended up working better than I hoped. Since I used Titebond on this I weighted down the structure and grabbed an Adult Beverage


Picture1 - Trued piece; measurement at center
Picture2 - Trued piece; measurement at end [X(]
Picture3 - Fixture used to true edges - thanks Caffeenman!
Picture4 - This is the brace I fabricated to keep the LE Sheeting flush under the Ribs
Picture5 - Here you can see the little braces ready to be puched into place under the glued sheeting
Picture6 - A closeup of the little brace at work

hmmmm,
so thats the lose with non flat wing...
its kinda glue it with a prayer that all the ribs will meet the TE.

nice idea to hold the sheeting.
keep up the goodwork, i want to build one of these some day.

Okay, the trailing edge sheeting is on. I read the next step about 50 times, looked at the plans and parts and even then couldn't bring myself to do what the directions were asking ...

The next step calls for sawing through the first 4 ribs all the way to the main spar. Check out Picture1, I outlined the portion that needs to be removed. This is an un-natural thing for this builder to do. After convincing myself that I could "fix it" if needed, I went ahead and cut out the material. Of course, this was the right thing to do, but it really felt awkward at the time.

It must be the day to get stumped - it was that way at work too [:@]. Anyway, the next step was the sheer webbing. Here's where I have to ask the Hog experts out there if this is right ...

It appears that there are only 4 sheer webs per wing 1/2 on the upper wing (Picture4). I am accustomed to putting sheer webbing across the entire wing, but it appears that the Hog doesn't need it?? Is this correct? Hopefully someone who's built this kit can weigh in. I went ahead and installed the 8 total sheer webs that I know are called for - they are curing at the moment.

I decided to look ahead and true up the leading edge sheeting for the next step. I couldn't believe how "un-true" this was. Now I've built my share of kits over the years and have never experienced this poor of a wood selection - this is not a knock on SIG as this can happen to anyone ... but geez. [:'(] I tried to snap a picture of how bad this was. Check out Picture5. This is sitting as square as I could get it on my glass table top. Not only is it bent up and the ends, but its warped across the legnth. This piece may get tossed for a sample from my scrap building wood pile.

Picture1 - This is what needs to be removed from W-1T - scary
Picture2 - Once the scrap is removed, the ply piece fits snug onto the bottom spar
Picture3 - Starting to take shape
Picture4 - Here are the Sheer Webs - only 4 per side on the Top Wing?? Is this right?
Picture5 - Sheer Webbing clamped down and curing
Picture6 - Picture doesn't do it justice - this was one "out of shape" piece of balsa

Don't worry about removing the material from the ribs. The pieces that build it back up are ply and are much stronger in the end than a small piece of rib that was removed. It was designed this way. As far as the sheer webbing, no sweat there either. Adding sheer webbing to the outboard rib bays are just merely adding weight and add no beneficial strength. The ply spar along with the 4 sheer webs per wing halve give plenty of strength. Keep up the good work !

Hey thanks a TON champ! I figured I was on the right track - just different from other kits I've built before.

-MA

Now that I'm comfortable with the build thus far - thanks again r2champion - the next step calls for sheeting the leading edge. Now I vented a bit in my last post about how poor the sheet stock was... In truing the sheet, I removed almost 1/4" of material. It made it so the sheet almost didn't reach the main spar. It did; barely (and I went back from underneath once I removed the wing from the board and further secured it). Check out Picture1 - do you guys think I ought to add some scrap sheeting to this and extend it to the trailing edge of the main spar?

I cut the cap strips out next. Not much to show here, really. Its a fairly simple step. Picture3 shows how I use my Exacto Blade to measure the proper length of balsa - hold it in place on the wing and press on the strip with the blade to make a small mark. Put the wood on a cutting surface and finish the cut - perfect fit every time .

By the way, you guys that have made multiple build threads (RCKen, Minn, etc.) - do you use some sort of tripod or something to get some of your shots? I need about 4 hands to accomplish some of the photography found in your builds. I've got a whole new respect for what it takes to document progress!


Once the cap strips were on and cured, I removed the wing and started on the underside. This is where additional strength is added to the center structure of the upper wing.

Next Step - Sheeting the lower portion of the wing (hopefully those pieces are a but more true to begin with)


Picture1 - Sheeting in place - there's not much sheeting to attach to the spar (there are NO gaps). Any reason to add some scrap sheeting here and extend to the trailing edge of the main spar?
Picture2 - Picture of entire top wing after sheeting
Picture3 - Marking length of cap strip.
Picture4 - Assembled P-1 and B-2 installed and curing. NOTE: I epoxied the top assembly earlier and it is fully cured in this picture.

... just curious, outside of a few people, there doesn't seem to be much interest in this thread - maybe there's just too many winter builds going. [&:]

Guys, let me know - do you want to see this thread continue?

-MA

yes yes yes

Good thread - please keep it going. I have one NIB and I am following this quietly absorbing all of the info for when I get to mine. Thanks for taking the time to share your build with us.[8D]

Steve

Yes keep going, I am watching.

Me too...

Thanks for sharing your build... and keep it up...

Watching and enjoying here also, keep it up! I didn't respond the the last problem with the wing sheeting because I thought I would first let someone else chime in that might have experience with that problem. My opinion however, is that as long as the sheeting is touching the spar the full length, then no problem. It doesn't really matter how much overlap you have onto the spar because the glued joint of the sheeting and spar is going to be stronger than the sheeting itself. The sheeting adds rigidity to the wing as a whole and yours will be just as rigid as long as it does touch the spar the full wingspan, without any gaps. If you do have gaps where it doesn't reach the spar, it will be easy for your fingers to break through the sheeting by handling the wing carelessly. It will also show up when the covering is applied. Hope this helps....

I'm checking all the time!

Good info here!

Thanks!

I've also been lurking but reading the thread regularly. My wife got me a Hog Bipe for Christmas and when I finish my Anniversary Cub and Sig Rascal, I'll be starting on either the Hog Bipe or my Phaeton II. Either way, I'll be building the Hog this winter and appreciate your efforts in posting the build.

Neal
in The Great North Woods of NH

Okay, thanks guys! I'll keep this puppy going. Glad to see there's interest! r2Champion, thanks - that's what I figured as well regarding the sheeting.

-MA

So tell me MasterAlex, is it tedious trying to keep the thread going? I have thought about it for the last couple of planes I have built but I have waited until I can get my own shop. Currently, I do most of my building at my dads shop (he has all the tools and then some!) and I find it hard to stay on a regular building schedule. Considering, I think a build thread would be difficult to stay on top of. On top of that I don't know if I would have the patience to stop, take pictures, and then find time to post them with the text. Granted, it takes patince to be a builder but I roughly figured it would take me twice as long to finish a plane. I actually now have a "shop" and building table, but I am still collecting the tools that I need. I think that I will try it with my next build just for the sake of trying[]! Afterall, the point of it all is to get help, and help those who might need it. If a build thread will get someone building that may or may not have ever tried it, then it is all worth it. Just curious about your thoughts.

My apologies for throwing the thread off track!

Throwing "off track" naw - perfectly on track. I always wondered the same thing ... now I can answer the question. I build a SIG mid-star last year, covered it in a 3D American Flag monocote scheme and almost did a build thread on that one. When I got the Hog I knew it had more of a "cult following" here on RCU and figured it might be just the airframe to start a thread with - not to mention if I got stuck there'd be a fair amount of help out there.

So far I am surprised at this, but no. I keep the camera close by and snap a picture or two whenever I start something or move on to the next step. Not everything gets a picture, but the camera's right there and handy. If anything, keeping a record of things makes me neater and believe it or not, more careful. I really think I'm doing a better job knowing all of you are going to see it.

As far as staying on top of the build goes - I've been able to do it so far. Knowing there are others waiting for the next installment gives me a bit more motovation to "go to the dungeon" as my wife calls it. I'm sure there will be times when I just can't get to the basement. Heck, next week is one of them as I'll be out of town the entire week on business. [:@]


Sure, it probably adds to the duration of the build. It definitely adds to my internet time here at RCU. I was prepared to make that investment in time however.

Excellent! Give it a shot, see how it goes. I completely agree these threads are 2-way streets. The builder gets immediate (almost) feedback on how they're doing - the readers have a completely documented process regarding the journey of the build. Much more than what is gained by simply reading the manual.

I've found the experience a fun one, and have not regretted it at all.

-MA

Thanks for the in-depth perspective! You have definately talked me right into going ahead with one when I get a new kit started. Actually, it might be what I "need" to get me to my dungeon more often It will also give me a reason to keep my workspace a bit neater! I guess I had better order a kit!

Okay back to the build. The next step after getting the P-1 pieces in is to insert the B-4 leading edge block. After a bit of sanding it went right in. I glued it with Titebond and clamped it as best I could (Picture1).

I blasted through the next couple of steps - sheeted the lower wing, and epoxied in the blind nuts into the P-2 assemblies.

The next part wasn't tricky, but I took my time to make sure it went well. This next step is epoxing in the P-2 assemblies into the wing. Dry fitting is a must here. I ended up lightly sanding to make it fit - even then the final "thrust" into the wing reguired the use of a small screwdriver and both assemblies "clicked" into the wing (picture4) . I then removed wach assembly, mixed up some 15 minute Epoxy and re-inserted into the wing. I took care to make sure each assembly was fully seated against the main spar.

Picture1 - B-4 Glued and clamped
Picture2 - B-4 from a lower angle
Picture3 - Sheeted bottom of Top Wing
Picture4 - A little leverage on P-2
Picture5 - P-2 Clamped and Curing

yes please please please, got a Hog Bipe in the box just waiting for me to clear off the bench and start. your thread is helping and very informative. Great detailed pictures too. Keep it going.

Alex this build thread is great.
I’m not writing because I don’t know what to ask, simply i didn’t get to this level of airplanes yet.
its interesting to see how others solving problems, but unless you built it you don’t know there is a difficulty there…
these build threads are gems to find when you run into difficulties, when you are building years after the thread was finished.

Alex