I have built two MUS copies that are about that size, for some reason I can't send pix from work so I'll send them later this evening. The White an Red model has an Eflite 450 on it and the framed one has an EFlite 480. The framed one has a much thinner nose that fits the motor better than my first R&W Stik. Still have'em in my hangar...

Woot!

I finished the fuselage markings. Now, back to the bits that make it go.

By MUS, you mean the Mountain Models version - or just similar ones?

Do they fly as well as the larger ones?

MUS = Mini Ultra Stiks that elfite makes and sells, It seems like all the stiks I have built have much the same behavior, they fly great.

I have 2 MUS scratch built copies, 1 Midwest Little Stik pictured above, 1 Foam Simple Stik, and 2 Small Sticks I like them all.

http://www.horizonhobby.com/Products...ProdID=EFL2250

Whoa, those seem kinda pricey for an ARF? (Not that I have any plans to buy an ARF anyway.)

Mountain Models version seems like a much better deal. I hear those don't come with full plans though, so I'd be nervous about potential repairs.

Really want to start building some scale stuff, but I'm still afraid I'd just crash it.

When the MUS first came out they were 79 bucks. Those things are getting pricey now.

That sounds right!

Seems like the ARF is usually cheaper than the kit plus covering material! I only build because I enjoy it. It rarely saves money.

'Course, typically, the kit is MORE expensive on the car side. They assume the kit builder wants only premium parts...

OK, sorry to be slow on the updates, but I did get a little more work done over the weekend.

1. Finally epoxied the stab onto the fuselage! So, while it is missing control surfaces, I can now bolt on the wing and look at something airplane-ish. Unfortunately, it's too big for me to get a good picture of in the workshop. I need to wait for a sunny day to go outside.

2. I also broke out the RTV and locktite to do final install on the landing gear and engine. I like to put a spot of RTV around the hole, and locktite on each bolt.

3. Installed the switch harness and an Air Alert module. Last stick went into the woods. This stick will make noise if it crashes, vastly improving my ability to find it in the woods.

4. Installed a new propeller.

5. And, tonight I started covering all those last little bits: the ailerons and the aileron servo hatch covers. Those scallops are very tedious, but I like their look. However, my practice, as you can see, is to put a small piece of covering into each scallop before applying the big pieces of covering. 20 scallops equals 20 little pieces of monokote and about 200 small cuts to allow the monokote to spread around the inside curves. Tedious, but I'm done!

Well I thought I might add some of my Big Stik Shots as well. I was not satisfied with the motor mounts that my LHS had so I whipped these engine mounts up out of aluminum. The problem I had was that I felt the base of the commercial (Dave Brown) mount was very small for such a large heavy motor. After much deliberation I have also decided to make it a tail dragger rather than tricycle gear. Much simpler for me to rig.

Thanks for the picts. I should have done the side mounted engine like you, but I couldn't figure out how to make it fit around the nose wheel mount.

Your solution looks like it took some careful planning! And, now you're switching back to tail dragger anyway? Well, looks like the rest of your hangar is tail draggers, so that's probably for the best.

You'll have to show me how to whip up solid block aluminum engine mounts one day. About the only part I know how to do is tapping the bolt holes.

I recently built a Midwest Little Stick kit from a short kit I got from [link=http://lazer-works.com]Lazer Works[/link]. Very nice short kit. I'm currently flying a trainer to get reaclimated after an extended absense from the hobby. But I kinda put the donkey before the cart on this one and decided to build the little stick just to see if I was interested. I haven’t flown it yet but it is built and ready to fly. It has a Super Tigre G-51 with a header and pipe on it. Talk about overkill! I had one just like it back in the early 80s with an OS 40FX and pipe. This G-51 is turning an APC 12.25x3.75 right at 14,000. Can’t wait to fly it! In the attached image, it has an OS 46AX on it. The rudder and elevator servos (Hitech Mighty Mini HS-225MG) and battery are in the back. There are two aileron servos (HS-225MG) and a micro (HS-81) on the throttle. Other changes I made were cutting about 3/4" off the nose, adding 2" to the wing and making the rudder bigger. All up weight is 4lb 2oz.

Finally finished those blasted scalloped ailerons. Had some significant free time today, and I got all the control horns and hinges done.

I got 17 meg of pictures of what looks like a finished plane now!

However, I still have the following details to attend to:

1. Fuel tank - needs a little foam to hold it in place and I need to cut, run, and seal the fuel lines.

2. Dorsal fin - install and paint?

3. Aileron control rods.

Looks like it'll let me upload only one of these at a time.

I usually scale them down, but since these are kinda final...

Since the tank isn't sealed, I plan on trying for a maiden next week - weather permitting.

Almost forgot, I still haven't installed a receiver or battery!

Sadly, I guess I'll take the receiver from my Kadet Senior.

So, I'm not pulling it until after my Sunday afternoon flying. (weather permitting, of course)

OK, last one.

Well, I've just about polished off all the little details you can't see in the pictures.</p>

1. Added the tailskid / lower fin, whatever it's called.</p>

2. Soldered up some 4/40 links for the ailerons.</p>

3. Ran the fuel lines and added some foam around the tank.</p>

4. Finally pulled the receiver out of the Kadet and sat down to check and program everything. (What should I set for Flaperon %??)</p>

The throttle cable is a little loose, so I need to add one more support near the servo. (Up front, I let some solder flow down the cable about an inch.)</p>

Then I just need to zip tie the battery and receiver in and make a hole for the antenna. I checked the balance earlier, but have added a couple small things since then. It should still be a little less than a half an inch on the nose heavy side. I like nose heavy for an initial flight. If you've ever flown something tail heavy before, you'll know why. In my case, it was only about an 1/8 inch too far back. (Park Flyer though)</p>

However, the weather looks iffy in Atlanta this weekend, so probably won't fly it till next week anyway.</p>

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Nergall..Great looking Stik. I set up flaperon on mine but have never used them!  We only have a short strip in the middle of crops but the Stik drops in every time with no problems. Regarding c of g, mine is on the rear of the main spar ( 3 5/8" from the wing le) and I would not put it any further forwards. You might find that you want it further back as you get used to it. All the best for the maiden. My stik is the model that always comes with me...it is just so predictable and great fun to fly.</p>

                  Chris UK.</p>

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Yes, a very impressive covering job.

Good luck with your new Stik. They are wonderful flyers, but they are very different from a Kadet, so stay on your toes.


Ed Cregger

"...they are very different from a Kadet, so stay on your toes"

I've been trying to stay focused on the 4*60 recently, but the Kadet is quite a bit more relaxing. I just need more radio!

I recently picked up a Hangar 9 Super Stick 40 at a yard sale with various parts missing.
My question is can the wing be covered without "wing tips" ending with a flat side on the wing.
Ailerons missing, I plan to use 5/16 x 1 - 1/4 x36 balsa trailing edge aileron material.
It appears that the original ailerons were flat with no bevel on it.
How far out to the edge is good enough to end the aileron
I also have to build a new tail. Solid or build up?
I am using MSPaint and Powerpoint to do the drawings. A little slow but then again so am I.
I would have posted this in aerodynamics but that forum is a little too technical for an old retiree to comprehend.
Will the attached tail work and anybody with dimensions?

The Fin / Rudder on both the Ugly Stick and the Sweet Stick were solid 1/4 balsa.

Somewhere on one of the Ugly Stick threads (I think in scratch build), there is a link to free plans for it, where you should be able to get exact dimensions.

The ailerons were again, solid 1/4 balsa.