Thunderhead

I still got my Fun Air 3D (46 FX) and it rips nice. BUT, it isnt even in the same ball park with the Kat. I got a YS 63 on my Kat and its an awesome plane. In fact I dont even fly my Fun Air anymore. Im thinkin of experiment'n with it an tryin to put some type of profile fuse on the top of it.
I used a hs 81 on the throttle and standard servos all around. Only things I deviated from directions was use rubber bands to hold tha tank on instead of using the zip strips. (Vibration from 4 stroker) I used only the front servo mount for the throttle servo and siliconed the side to the fuse.(Thanks for the idea Frank!) and put tetherite LG on the front and a different tail skid. Reason for this was I was unsure if the stock gear would allow me to swing a 14" prop. I also had them laying around too
Im not the least little bit worried about any added or removed weight. That 63 yanks it around with enough athourity to pull a small child around the yard.......well maybe not that much, but dont sweat it. Build it per instructions, and that plane will do fine with the 72.

Dangerous Dan

My Feedback: (1)

I did the RCU review on the Fun Air 3D 40. It was my favorate plane I built three one for a friend with a TT .46 and two for Me. I lost one do to an anteanna wire wearing into and another due to a dumb thumb. I replaced it with a Flip 3D...Mistake 1 pound heavier and fragile as a pickled egg. I have been looking for a replacement plane with a similar wing/area that would weigh less than the Fun Air. I never gave a profile much thought since i never owned one. When I saw the wing area and weight of the Kat I instantly wanted one. Now I just need to find somebody to Buy the Flip 3D.

AFSalmon

My Feedback: (3)

Dntmn,

Don't worry about trying to lighten up this bird, it comes plenty light as is. Trust me it's not an overweight ARF like others out there. The 720 NiMH pack is a good idea, that's what I use a lot. Otherwise stick with the instructions on build and setup and you won't be dissapointed. Most are coming in right around 4 1/4 pounds loaded ready to fly. You can get the Tetherite gear as a special deal with the ARF as well for only a few bucks more. Well worth it trust me.

SunShyne

My Feedback: (68)

Mike is it really worth it, does it really save weight? I have my finger on the Buy Now trigger but wanted to ask first

matt

Dangerous Dan

My Feedback: (1)

OMP site said the Tetherite is 3.25 oz--6.5" tall
sombody posted that the aluminum gear weighs 2.1 oz--don't know how tall(might reweigh yourself to be sure)
the graph tec 40 profile gear from tnt is 1.79oz---9.5" tall

I havn't used any of them I am just quoting data that I found

RCAddiction

My Feedback: (87)

Just maidened my Katana 40GS today with a JETT 50 BSE FIRE!. Thought some might find it an interesting application for this engine. The engine was previously in a Whiplash, turning a tiny prop really, really, really fast. Now it turns a 12x4 APC really fast.

Kat 40 came in at 4lbs 13 oz with Tetherite legs, slightly larger foam tires than stock, 5 cell 2100 Sanyo, and Sullivan tailwheel. The weight is not too bad, really. I had to replace the pushrods and clevises as several of my clevises were bad. The threads on the pushrods were undersized at 1.7mm and I could not find other clevises that would fit, so I made up new 2-56 pushrods. Standard Hitec 422/425 servos all around. Getting the CG @130mm required a heavy brass hub.

I'm using the long header on the JETT 50, uncut, so it works well in the lower rpm range for the 12x4 APC. Yes, it's LOUD but it has awesome throttle-ability. The best way to describe the throttle response on this JETT is that it is like an AXI with a Castle ESC. That's why I thought the JETT would be a blast in this plane. It's doesn't at all act like a, peaky, untractable racing engine. Unbelievable. The Katana is immensely fun to fly with this engine. You can do a low fly-by at idle, pull up into a wall, and then hit the coals. We are not talking about your "typical" unlimited vertical here. This plane will not only pull up vertically, but it will ACCELERATE rapidly from zero speeed as it climbs until you literally are so high you cannot see it. It feels like it's going 60mph vertically!

Anyhow, the plane is a hoot, and I'm sure it will be getting a good amount of flying time this season.

TimChurch

My Feedback: (1)

R C Addiction
The manual is wrong on the CG, It should be About 135mm to 140 mm 0r around 5,75". I think page 3 or 4 of this thread it is mentioned. Go to Accel Web site For updated manual

RCAddiction

My Feedback: (87)

My printed manual says 100mm. The current, updated .pdf manual on the website says 130mm.

TimChurch

My Feedback: (1)

Yes and that is a good stable plane At 130 and your prob. right on update I was going from memory. I have now double checked mine and It's at 138mm, I've been lighting the nose trying to get it back more. I have os 50, I've removed the spinner and have purchased a hs 81 to replace the standard servo, but haven't replaced it yet, I also moved the battery all the way back yesterday. It is still stable for landings, but getting better in the air. sorry for mis quote Ill try to be more careful.

RCAddiction

My Feedback: (87)

Mike,

If I wanted to move the CG back a whole bunch it would be very easy. I would simply swap the 2.3 oz heavy brass hub for the stock Jett aluminum one. But I'm happy for now where it is. The Jett is reasonably light, and even with the entire header, pipe and coupler assy it weighs only 18 oz, same as my Magnum 52 w/stock muffler. However, with the Jett, some of that 18oz weight is shifted rearwards due to the pipe being located further back than a conventional engine/muffler setup would be.

No worries about the CG, dude.

stikpilot

Kat 40 Dude, I'm in the final stages of completeing my Kat 40, but I think I got a couple of serious problems. 1. when I attached my fairings I went by the instruction in the manual that came with the kit. after reading a few chats in this forum it seems that I did not do the upgraded version.so my fairings are not level with the hortizontal stab.[] what bugs me the most is I had down loaded the manual before I received the plane and it had the upgrade. 2. my plan is to install a new OS46fx, it looks like I might have to add weight to the nose. Have you any good
advice for me at this stage in the game???

Thunderhead

How far are the fairings off? Personally if they were close, wouldnt sweat it. Now there may be others that will jump in here and flame up about them NEEDING BEING SPOT ON, but if they were within 1/4 in I woulndt mess with it. My opinion (and experience) is the first time you doink it, you have the opportunity to line them up correctly. Mine came loose. This all depends on how hard you hit and how you attached them. Doink it, you might say? Yeah, you will.

On the weight issue, I havent a clue if you will or wont have to add weight. Try like hell to get everthing shoved forward to get it balanced. Mine is balanced in the middle of the wing servos. I dead sticked TWICE yesterday and had no problem with CG being an issue.
My thoughts on adding nose weight has always been to add more engine instead of dead weight. Added weight up front is doing nothing for the plane, but more cc's up front will. This is only IF you have to add weight, AND you can afford to upgrade into another engine.
This is just my thoughts.....take it or leave it. Im sure someone else will disagree, but thats just my $.02

Dangerous Dan

My Feedback: (1)

I have stock servos and LG, a saito .72 and 720Mha NiMh batt weight is 4lb 4oz. My CG is at the front wing servo screws without adding weight, I may try and shove the battery further bach to get it in the middle of the servo but it flies great where it is. I have an HS 81 on throttle Any ideas on how to move the CG back without adding weight?

depfife

My Feedback: (14)

A lighter prop or moving the battery and receiver back is about it. On my EF Edge I ended up with my battery mounted on the fuse, behind the wing.

Eric

zorka

My Feedback: (4)

Hey guys,

Bought the GS arf a few days ago at a show. White color. Can anyone tell me how we can differentiate with the second version or the first ARF version?.

Also how would a OS 70 Surpass 4 stroke do with this bird and recommended prop?

Thx
for the help!

dhooks

My Feedback: (24)

If its a GS its the second run....with real iron on covering.

The .70 will work fine on that plane.

Try a 13x6 or a 14x4 on it.

depfife

My Feedback: (14)

Practicing my knife edge yesterday and dumb thumbed my Kat allowing the wing to hit the ground. It did two complete cartwheels. The damage was not as bad as I expected. The fuse is cracked in front of the wing, part of the glue joint came loose where the wing joins the fuse, and the fairings both are loose, but still connected. Should be an easy fix.

Eric

stikpilot

THANKS FOR THE RESPONSE. I THINK I HAD ALREADY MADE UP MY MINE TO LEAVE THE FAIRING BE AND SEE WHAT HAPPEN. ALSO IT LOOKS LIKE I WON'T HAVE A CG PROBLEM RIGHT NOW ITS ABOUT MID WAY OF THE WING SERVO. I'M ABOUT READY FOR THE TEST HOP.ONLY PROJECT LEFT IS SECURING THE SERVO LEADS ALONG THE FUSE. MY CLUB WEB SITE IS www/takeoff to/mather [8D]

Dangerous Dan

My Feedback: (1)

I am using an HS 81 on throttle standard everywhere else, 720Mha NiMh Battary(less than 2oz) Saito 72(as far back as it goes, lightweight hub) and an APC 14x4w. And Stock landing gear. It balenced with no added weight and the battery in the rear of the wing on the front servo screws. Total weight 4lb 6oz! Awsome plane.
I wanted to move the CG to the middle of the servos. I removed the battery from the wing, Straped it to the fuse through the elev/rud servo wire holes then had to add 1.25 oz to the tail to get it to balence at the middle of the servos.

Is this normal it seems that others are getting the Kat to balence in the middle of the servos without placing the battery on the tail and without adding weight?

Thunderhead

There should be holes cut in the sides of the fuse to run servo wires in. There's a set in front of the tail servos (one on each side) and a set just in front of the TE. Run your servo wires thru the channel. Makes for a better cleaner look.

RenoSportFlyer

My Feedback: (2)

Does anyone know if OMP currently has the Katana GS in stock? Are they actually shipping them, or just taking orders? Also, any news on when the 40size edge ARF will be available?

Steve

Dangerous Dan

My Feedback: (1)

Yes they do A friend Just ordered a YELLOW one! They have a special on tetralite landing gear and $9.95shipping too.


Don't know about the Edge

Super D

Just joining the profile brotherhood. This seems like the largest KAT thread, I'm surprized its not 30-40 pages. I guess some folks just dont like profiles? I flew mine but my CG was at the instructions specified (100mm). Flew like an underpowered trainer it was bad nose heavy. I can tell this plane has potential. I just have to get my CG at 135mm.

Heres my setup;
OS 46AX stock muffler no baffle.
12x4 apc
1100 5 cell
3004's all around
3in. foam wheels, I fly off grass.
Futaba 9C
1/2 oz of lead to my right wing for lateral balance

bigal422

My Feedback: (50)

Super D, I have the same set up in my Kat. I love this plane. I have my cg on 130mm. Works great. I was thinking about buying the 70 to put my YS 110 on. I'm a little worried though. My 40 came apart where the lite ply meets the balsa at the front of the plane. I took the covering off the front of the plane and there was no glue in there. I epoxied everything. It hasn't came apart agian. I'm not putting them down because they have the best deal going on the ARF profiles and the thing flies great. I read where Alex made good on someones plane that came apart. He must be a stand up guy. I just fixed mine, didn't want to wait on another. If any one knows if they got the problem fixed, please post.

P.S. I'm a Pro Bro too.

dhooks

My Feedback: (24)

I wouldnt use a 1.10 on the kat 70.....way to much engine. That engine will 3D planes almost twice the kat 70 weight.