I have seen a lot of places that say the Mayhem tank is 126cc s instead of 125...is this true?...if it is than is there another tank that will fit the mayhem and is race legal?

P.S. This is the 500th post

I also own a xb8 full option and now a GS cl-1

I am still amazed that the mayhem pro has the least play on parts
new and after a few gallons of fuel

all parts are really machined right to 1/10 of mm
suspensionarms have no play at all on their pins/balls
again a good example are the new torquerods

and that's the way it should be


mayhem is not without any faults
the original clutchshoes are weak, wingmount is a bit to flexy so is the chassis but that's all
but I don't see what the difference between this car and a top car could be?
if I sit it beside a xb8, cl-1, crono rs03
shocks, driveshafts, brakes , diffs , gears, tank, suspension arms and geometry, rods, axles, antirollbarrs, are as good or better than most !

mboulay
I just went thru the same problem with the vented blue flywheel. The hole is not sized right for the standard collet. I increased the size of the hole in the flywheel but it was not enough ,the crank shaft must extend past the clutch bearing . I gave up and went with the original flywheel .I'll try again when i have more time.

Hi,
In reference of the Motor.
Who know the Mayhem RTR motor .26 is the same of the Dynamite Mach .26 Exploded?

Wolftrax, I called Horizonhobby about the flywheel problem. They told me I had two options. 1. I cold grind down the collet on the wider side so that the flyhwheel would go in further. 2. Or I could just tighten the clutch nut down until it only has a small space left.

I choose option two and it worked. I had two add only one shim near the bearing to keep the right amount of play.

mboulay, Thanks ; next time I pull it apart I think I'll try option #1 only because I thought that I had put a lot of pressure tightening the nut down and still had aprox. 1/8 " to go.Did you notice any change in performance with the new flywheel? I've read that the engine will spool up quicker but might not idle as well as with the heavier flywheel.

I had a trouble getting the engine started. I just rebuilt the piston and sleeve. I used the stock carb setting of 3.5 on the High speed needle and 2 on the low. Too much fuel was going into the engine. It started for a little bit and then stalled. Then it would turn over because too much fuel was in between the piston and head. Even the pipe was filled with fuel. I broke the started plate in the rear of the engine. I haven't received a new one yet.

Anyone have any good advice for breaking in a .26?

Pia Pingon
This is a link for make a very good breaking in a .26
[link]http://www.rcuniverse.com/magazine/article_display.cfm?article_id=397[/link]

[:'(] .[&:] . .[:-] .[>:]

here are instruction to use the new ckermann rack

I hope this helps out guys; Thanks again and here are the other instructions.

1.) Remove the original steering link.

2.) Insert flathead screws through the top of the rack on the rear
outer mounting holes. (When looking at the rack from the top you should
be able to see the countersunk screw holes and the outer ends should
sweep to the front of the buggy.

3.) Add 3 washer shims over the screws on the bottom side of the rack
and then add a threaded pivot ball (shoulder to the top) to hold the
washers in position.

4.) Place the black cone washers on the center holes on the topside
of the rack. Insert flathead screws through the top and attach the
supplied locknuts from the bottom.

5.) Next insert the remaining flathead screws through the cone
washers
on the rack and through the front holes on the steering bell cranks.
Attach lock nuts to the bottom side of each bell crank and secure into
position.


6) Attach steering links to the outer pivot balls and adjust for
proper toe.

Last check and make sure the rack moves freely. Note it may be
necessary to remove a small amount material from the plastic bulkheads
for additional clearance.


forward hole gives more smoother steering response
rear hole more crispy steering response

Hi
Who know the diff case of the Team Losi is the same of the Mayhem?

rwong, yes they are the same, along with the diff inside them!

Here is a pics of My baby before the race today, got 1st in the MAIN!!!





and a friends Xray

ok, here we go. I have a mayhem and need a cooling head. i saw horizon has it for like 4o bucks. I would like to get acheaper one if I can. anyone know where the cheapest is? also what motor have most of you guys been using to replace the .26?


Bill

You can find a cooling head in ebay around 20 to 25 bucks. In reference of the motor, the dynamite .26 is similar and the price is similar too. Another motor are more expensive.

killabud,
Thk U a lot. Very nice car. I can see you use the spectrum system...that is right?. Another thing, What body are you use?
Finally, I see you have two kind of Springs: black and red in the rear. Some reason to use this combination.

Thanks rwong, I use the 2 different spring because I like the back to be a little softer then the front. That body is the agitator body. And yes I use spektrum, I just gop the DX-3 radio by spectrum. It has all the features I need and its spektrum! Really its just an older style JR radio with speltrum built in.

In reference of the agitator body I would like you opinion about two point:
1.- The agitator body protect very well the cooling head or you cooling head is more small.
2.- This is the more important point...I see you have a JP-1 or JP-2 pipe. I have a JP-1 but I see the Manifold of the JP-1 touch the stock body and them touch a litter in the wheel. Does the agitator body fix this problem?

B.R.

Ramon

Hello all, sorry to get off topic but some of you might be interested in what i have to say. I have a Mayhem for sale that is hoped up good deal. You can view pictures of it here: http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_32...tm.htm#3220078
It has serveral hop-ups added that are not shown in the pictures. If anyone is interested i would be happy to show you up to date pictures and inform you about all of the hop-ups on the buggy. The buggy has a Picco .27 with a roto-start that would be included. The buggy comes ready to run with stock radio equiptment. Please private measage me or e-mail me at [email protected] for any information about the buggy or what is included.

Thanks,

-1ce

rowng, no its just that my cooling head is small, it is a OS RG motor and the come stock witha very small cooling head. I plan on upgradeing it soon, its good to have your head coming through the body. And the jp-1 header still rubs the body some but not as much as the stock body.

You have a nice motor and you want another more better???? What motor are you looking for?
Do you think is good idea to cut part of the body to fix the header to rubs the body?

Not the motor but just the cooling head. The Stock OS RG head is very small, I just wanty a bigger one so the engine runs a little cooler. Im not worried about modding the body, really all that happens is the body lets a little to the shape of the header and that is all. I might get some aluminum tape and put it on just for a little more protection.

Thk U, Another hand, do you consider to buy another cooling head more bigger? In this way you can save some money.

rwong21 i tryed to email you about the buggy but it didnt work, pm with a different address so that i can send you pictures

Thanks! I got a cooling head four springs and a glow ignitor in the same auction for 5 bucks!

Bill

no I want a bigger cooling head so the temps will go down a little.

Hi,
I forgot to tell you....You answer to my question in reference of the diff case of the Team Losi is the same of the Mayhem.
Is the Team Losi LST Super Truck RTR diff case or another model.
Do you have the Team Losi LST Super Truck? or how do you know about it?

Another hand, the cooling head ...you can try the nova racer. I brought one and them down my temps 115 to 86.