official smartech buggy thread
#826
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From: Leesburg,
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OK, I got my first order through Excel hobby.
The clutch is not the same! Mine has the spring groove going through the center of the clutch shoes, and my clutch shoes have holes drilled right through for the pivot pins.
The new clutch has the spring groove on one side, and holes are not through (so will not work because of this)
Next problem, the front hub knuckles (11413) are not made for a 4X4 drive hub to fit through, so I had to machine soke plastic out to make them work. It also forced the outer bearing out too far, causing a bind when the circlip is installed on the axle. I modified the outer bearing to make that work...
Is this not the same car I am getting parts for? I ordered then manual from them (mine was in poorly translated english) for a Winner 3, 4X4. The clutch they sent looks the same in the pic, but I thought it would still work. (NOT). The knuckles definately did not look like the picture, as far as the inner bearing race shape.
Mark
The clutch is not the same! Mine has the spring groove going through the center of the clutch shoes, and my clutch shoes have holes drilled right through for the pivot pins.
The new clutch has the spring groove on one side, and holes are not through (so will not work because of this)
Next problem, the front hub knuckles (11413) are not made for a 4X4 drive hub to fit through, so I had to machine soke plastic out to make them work. It also forced the outer bearing out too far, causing a bind when the circlip is installed on the axle. I modified the outer bearing to make that work...
Is this not the same car I am getting parts for? I ordered then manual from them (mine was in poorly translated english) for a Winner 3, 4X4. The clutch they sent looks the same in the pic, but I thought it would still work. (NOT). The knuckles definately did not look like the picture, as far as the inner bearing race shape.
Mark
#828

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From: Sheffield, UNITED KINGDOM
Yea i had to do the same with my front knuckles but a soldering iron sorted that out quickly ^^ As for the clucth make sure when you come to buy parts make sure your on the right page :P heres the first page of parts for our smartechs: http://www.excelhobby.com/excel_hobby_024.htm
Another way to get there is:
www.excelhobby.com -> Cars & Truck Parts (left menu) -> 10341 & 10342 & 10343 (bottom of page)
As for engine mods, they can be expensive so the best thing to do is update your electrics (as your 1st mod) from the stock smartech ones to acoms (good and cheap) 1st of all, buy a failsafe - £10-15, then new servos and your done with the electrics :P (new servos, £15 for a good servo each)
Ryan.
Another way to get there is:
www.excelhobby.com -> Cars & Truck Parts (left menu) -> 10341 & 10342 & 10343 (bottom of page)
As for engine mods, they can be expensive so the best thing to do is update your electrics (as your 1st mod) from the stock smartech ones to acoms (good and cheap) 1st of all, buy a failsafe - £10-15, then new servos and your done with the electrics :P (new servos, £15 for a good servo each)
Ryan.
#829
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From: , BC, CANADA
i have about $20 worth of excel website parts that dont fit my winnersport
ok guys ya DON'T ORDER THAT CLUTCH i have one. a perfect replacement clutch is the hpi mt clutch. i have it in mine. works great. and very cheap.
the knuckles that are for the winnersport 3 are number 11413 on excels website
the knuckle support 11414 fits the winnersport, i would guess all of them
the clutch bell 11350 is only for the single speed as well
the spur gear listed on the site 11284 could proabbly be used for the second gear in the winnersport. i could be wrong on this one cause my gears are still great. so i havent tried to put it in.
the drive dogbones, from the diffs to the wheel are 78 mm make sure you order those. they are part 11432. i ordered main drive dogbones by accident.
on the lighter side, i also own an hpi MT, a losi mini-t, and an anderson mb4, and i swear thean excellent replacement header is the hpi mt one as well, it also comes with a .15 engine. so it fits nice. mine cost $7 (canadian) so that like 2 pounds for you UK boys.
and the cheapest place to get bearings is rcmart. mine are great and if you wait to put an order in and get quite a few parts the shipping becomes very very reasonable.
excel hobby website is however way cheaper than rcmart. especially shipping to canada because they are american.
I own an hpi mt, smartech winnerpsort, losi-mini t, and an anderson mb4 (aka duratrax vendetta) and the smartech is the most bang for the buck, my losi mini t has cost me more to get it to a fun level than my smart tech. a 1/10 nitro buggy is cheaper to run/maintain than a 1/18th electric. crooked world we live in.
ok guys ya DON'T ORDER THAT CLUTCH i have one. a perfect replacement clutch is the hpi mt clutch. i have it in mine. works great. and very cheap.
the knuckles that are for the winnersport 3 are number 11413 on excels website
the knuckle support 11414 fits the winnersport, i would guess all of them
the clutch bell 11350 is only for the single speed as well
the spur gear listed on the site 11284 could proabbly be used for the second gear in the winnersport. i could be wrong on this one cause my gears are still great. so i havent tried to put it in.
the drive dogbones, from the diffs to the wheel are 78 mm make sure you order those. they are part 11432. i ordered main drive dogbones by accident.
on the lighter side, i also own an hpi MT, a losi mini-t, and an anderson mb4, and i swear thean excellent replacement header is the hpi mt one as well, it also comes with a .15 engine. so it fits nice. mine cost $7 (canadian) so that like 2 pounds for you UK boys.
and the cheapest place to get bearings is rcmart. mine are great and if you wait to put an order in and get quite a few parts the shipping becomes very very reasonable.
excel hobby website is however way cheaper than rcmart. especially shipping to canada because they are american.
I own an hpi mt, smartech winnerpsort, losi-mini t, and an anderson mb4 (aka duratrax vendetta) and the smartech is the most bang for the buck, my losi mini t has cost me more to get it to a fun level than my smart tech. a 1/10 nitro buggy is cheaper to run/maintain than a 1/18th electric. crooked world we live in.
#831
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From: Leesburg,
FL
The knuckles (11413) are what I ordered, and they will not work without modifying. It looks lke they were made for 2wd. Even the pic shows the proper knuckles. I emailed them about this problem, and about the clutch.
Also, if someone can look at parts 11257 and 11258: I think they are supposed to be the same gears (pinion bevel gear), but the pic in 11257 shows an extra 'part' of the gear in behind the bevel. All I need is the gear, not the axle, but would I be taking a chance in ordering just the gears? Or better yet, has someone ordered the 11257 and found the gears to be correct?
Also, Banx, do you have a link to the hpi clutch in an online store? Does it have the two gear clutch bell as well?
Thanks!
Mark
Also, if someone can look at parts 11257 and 11258: I think they are supposed to be the same gears (pinion bevel gear), but the pic in 11257 shows an extra 'part' of the gear in behind the bevel. All I need is the gear, not the axle, but would I be taking a chance in ordering just the gears? Or better yet, has someone ordered the 11257 and found the gears to be correct?
Also, Banx, do you have a link to the hpi clutch in an online store? Does it have the two gear clutch bell as well?
Thanks!
Mark
#832

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From: Sheffield, UNITED KINGDOM
£2 for a cooling head [X(]
Yea Excel is a wank site but parts are cheap and dont charge £millions (not realy
) on postage, unlike rcmart. But rcmart have a way better site with customer help and everything. But from now on I buy my bits from redline racer, but since they dont stock all of the parts I have to go on excel sometimes. But not anymore!!!!
My bro braught this sheet of plastic home which is 6mm thick, its strong stuff and expensive, £40 for 1/2metre squared. I'll be making my own parts from now on. [:'(] Ive also got the design of the front A-arms on my schools computer, ready to use on the cnc machine when i get some 6mm aluminium, so if anyone wants to donate some ill be happy! ([email protected])
Anyway i got to go, stupid paper round (6:44am)
Ryan.
Yea Excel is a wank site but parts are cheap and dont charge £millions (not realy
) on postage, unlike rcmart. But rcmart have a way better site with customer help and everything. But from now on I buy my bits from redline racer, but since they dont stock all of the parts I have to go on excel sometimes. But not anymore!!!!My bro braught this sheet of plastic home which is 6mm thick, its strong stuff and expensive, £40 for 1/2metre squared. I'll be making my own parts from now on. [:'(] Ive also got the design of the front A-arms on my schools computer, ready to use on the cnc machine when i get some 6mm aluminium, so if anyone wants to donate some ill be happy! ([email protected])
Anyway i got to go, stupid paper round (6:44am)
Ryan.
#833
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From: , BC, CANADA
trinogt the clucth i used is this one
http://cgi.ebay.ca/MIP-Clutch-Kit-ff...QQcmdZViewItem
i also ordered 3 sets of knuckles the same id # as you but my knuckles are the right ones.
ryan i work in an aluminum smelter. i actually made chassis for my micro rc's out of sheets i brought home, having access to a cnc machine and autocad you could make everhthing. post some pictures when you start man
http://cgi.ebay.ca/MIP-Clutch-Kit-ff...QQcmdZViewItem
i also ordered 3 sets of knuckles the same id # as you but my knuckles are the right ones.
ryan i work in an aluminum smelter. i actually made chassis for my micro rc's out of sheets i brought home, having access to a cnc machine and autocad you could make everhthing. post some pictures when you start man
#835
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From: , BC, CANADA
ryan i dont know what the shipping cost would be to send sheets of 6mm aluminum from BC canada to the UK would be. well if you could make me a-arms i'd send you a bunch. hahaha thats for sure. do they have to be sheets, cause we also have these bricks kicking around. and they are high high quality stuff, the sheets arent as good.
you could find it at any fab shop. if you use yellow pages as a phone directory. or something similar, i would look in that.
they would basically give it to you for free, a square foot sheet would be adequate.
and they would be sending it to the recyclers anyway. well thats how it works on this side of the ocean.
you could find it at any fab shop. if you use yellow pages as a phone directory. or something similar, i would look in that.
they would basically give it to you for free, a square foot sheet would be adequate.
and they would be sending it to the recyclers anyway. well thats how it works on this side of the ocean.
#837
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From: Leesburg,
FL
Banx, looks a lot more expensive, but if it's better, why not? I hope the spring is better too....
Now, is your car a two speed car, with 2 gears on the clutch bell? (Excel shows only a single gear, and I already know the clutch is different!)
Mark
Now, is your car a two speed car, with 2 gears on the clutch bell? (Excel shows only a single gear, and I already know the clutch is different!)
Mark
#838
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From: , BC, CANADA
trino... ya the cost differnce really isnt that bad. that MIP clutch will last longer than 4 or 5 smarttech clutches. yes I do have the 2speed. I didnt have to change the clutch bell on mine. just relube the clutch bearing when you install the clutch. unless your clutch bell is missing teeth or broken you shouldnt have to replace it. you can however, throw some random clutch bell on there if it has the appropriate ammount of teeth, the engine can be moved along the chassis. If you have a hobby shop there bring your car in. if you dont, i would call excell directly.
#839
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From: Telford,
TN
I just got a winner sport today and the radio wouldn't turn on so I had to take it apart and it finally worked. I gotta order veering arm (front) now. Is there a stronger replacement for it? I scanned the manual in high resolution incase anyone needs it: [link=http://www.surf-junky.com/smartech/]manual[/link]
#840
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From: indianapolis, IN
damn i just got my new car and it really is intense. its shell is pretty crappy though. its rippin apart and the front right tire disconnected from the axle and the steering but i fixed it. also the spoiler on it is basically down for the count. but other than that its awesome!
#842
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From: Leesburg,
FL
Wow, after half a gallon of fuel through my Smartech, I haven't got a mark on the body... Did you take some bad tumbles? Most cars will usually get damaged after a couple spills, especially if they hit something hard/stationary, like a curb, tree, etc.
I went through most screws when I got the car, and sure enough, there were some loose ones.
I am still waiting for a response to the question I had about the excelhobby differential pinion gears; If the 11257 gears are the same as the gears in 11258 gear and axle set... (they look different in the picture)
Mark
I went through most screws when I got the car, and sure enough, there were some loose ones.
I am still waiting for a response to the question I had about the excelhobby differential pinion gears; If the 11257 gears are the same as the gears in 11258 gear and axle set... (they look different in the picture)
Mark
#843
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From: , BC, CANADA
trino...or mark, I wouldnt buy those diff gears personally, if you could buy 2 complete diffs from a different vehicle it would be better. you have to consider that exact measurements are not necessary.
you can compensate dogbone length with o-rings or lil slices of fuel tubing to put in the outdrive cups to keep the dogbones secure. you could also drill new holes into teh alum chassis. It will hold. When my diffs go I will replace them with the diffs from my HPI MT. HPI offers heavy duty gears so I will use those in my MT.
however. I personally feel the 2 speed tranny (smart tech) is very very well engineered. I have a 2speed for my HPI and it cost $70. and it has shred 2 spur gears already at $5 each. I plan on ordering the complete 2 speed tranny from smarte tech and installing that in my HPI.
i want these though
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/produc...oducts_id=7895
you can compensate dogbone length with o-rings or lil slices of fuel tubing to put in the outdrive cups to keep the dogbones secure. you could also drill new holes into teh alum chassis. It will hold. When my diffs go I will replace them with the diffs from my HPI MT. HPI offers heavy duty gears so I will use those in my MT.
however. I personally feel the 2 speed tranny (smart tech) is very very well engineered. I have a 2speed for my HPI and it cost $70. and it has shred 2 spur gears already at $5 each. I plan on ordering the complete 2 speed tranny from smarte tech and installing that in my HPI.
i want these though
http://www.rcmart.com/catalog/produc...oducts_id=7895
#844
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From: Leesburg,
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Wow banx, those look like true universal joints in those dog bones! Is that what they are? That would be great.
I hear what you are saying about a complete diff/gearbox swap. I remember working on the Team Associated Monster GT, and it's diff case was oil filled... I thought that was a great idea! The Smartech case cannot be filled, since it has a large slotted hole in the bottom.
Anyway, I was just looking to see if anyone has ordered that part or not, and if it was the right one... I wish there was a Smartech supplier nearby I could drive to!
Hey, that is pretty wild, when you say you want a Smartech part for your HPI! lol I think that is real cool. You will have some true hybrid cars!
Mark
I hear what you are saying about a complete diff/gearbox swap. I remember working on the Team Associated Monster GT, and it's diff case was oil filled... I thought that was a great idea! The Smartech case cannot be filled, since it has a large slotted hole in the bottom.
Anyway, I was just looking to see if anyone has ordered that part or not, and if it was the right one... I wish there was a Smartech supplier nearby I could drive to!
Hey, that is pretty wild, when you say you want a Smartech part for your HPI! lol I think that is real cool. You will have some true hybrid cars!
Mark
#846
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From: , BC, CANADA
trino you can put a piece of lexan under the diff of your buggy and it will seal it. I have my diffs filled with thick grease. not filled but about 60%. feels much smoother.
#847
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From: indianapolis, IN
ok, i got a few questions. 1. does anybody know of a 2-speed transmision from a different company that is compatible with the winner sport and has stronger gears? 2. does anyone know of a stronger body that wont get shredded up or does anyone know how to massively strengthen the body? i decided to just cover it w/ duct tape. i've got say its pretty ghetto-fabulous:-p but i still would like a stronger body. any input would be great. thanks!
#849
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From: Leesburg,
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Yeah, I had thought about sealing up the case and filling it... Not sure if heavy oil will do it, as I seem to recall a lot of tolerance around the side bearing areas... But I like the grease idea. Not sure why the pinion gear chewed up prematurely, but I am gonna keep it out of the sand for a while, or at least until I can seal up the diff.
Mark
Mark



needs to be 6mm, THANKS