Hi Brian,

I took your advice and found the hillier non-Illinois-like sites with the thermals, slope soaring winds and dynamic soaring winds (Valkyrie, Westville Miner's Summit, Blanca Crater, Jockey's Ridge and Hacker Mtn). The Hacker Mtn one in particular is awesome, to my taste at least. It reminded me a little of Camelback Mountain in Phoenix,Az. I stand corrected, you've got hills. I'm just a beginner but this is great. Sorry if my earlier comment mislead anybody.

I'm still going to try to create a 'west coast' style hilly pano though .... eventually, unless somebody else offers one up.

One thing that I noticed in the last couple of days is that the basic or advanced lesson videos don't seem to include any instruction for slope, dynamic or thermal soaring. Do you think it might be possible to have one of your gurus record a few such lessons to help people get into these aspects of flying (eg. how to get started, typical techniques in high/low wind conditions, how to milk a thermal for all it's worth, how/when to make best use of spoilers, how/when to use a crow setup, how to work with a tow plane etc)?

On the electric Swift, how does one kill the motor so it's not running all of the time? The motor kill key doesn't seem to work on the electrics.

cheers,
Dave

Oops, sorry, that would be Harker Mountain.
Cheers, Dave

Your ideas for more lessons to cover soaring is a good one, and it's on our list to do. Personally, it's something I'd like to do myself!!!

For the Swift w/ the electric motor, when the throttle is all the way down, the sim reports "electic motor brake applied" and that should stop things. Let me know if you don't see that. But ... if the sailplane is flying *very* fast, the electric brake is not strong enough to stop the prop from windmilling. The 'k' key for kill only functions w/ gas/glow engines.

Michael

Hi Michael,

Thanks for the response. I'm using a Futaba Tx so I might have the same throttle issue as I read somewhere earlier in this thread...and I think which you helped straighten out. I'll let you know if that doesn't do it.
Thanks,
Dave

Brian/Michael,

I have owned RF G2, G3.5 and FSOne. FSOne is my favorite... I am truly impressed with the 'realism' you have created within FSOne. Excellent work... right out of the box, this is as close as it gets IMHO.

Regards,
John

BTW - Running it on a laptop - Dell Inspiron 6400, XP, Core Duo, 1 GB, ATI Radeon x1400.

I bought FS One when it first came out and I think I played it maybe 3 times. Seems the planes are always set up perfect for 3D manuevers but doesn't let you know where the CG is. Great for a sim. Crappy for trying to find that sweet spot on the real plane. Ah well. Stall characteristics on the funtana are off as well, but I know this will upset someone so let me tell you first this is my opionion and you did better in creating it then I would. But as we all know...nothing can be perfect

Wow! Now that was informative. Are you just trolling or was choosing Edit -> Mass really difficult for you?

Ken-

There is no need to be a smart alac about it. I am just letting people know what I think about the sim. This is a thread on "FS ONE" the simulator correct??? If you want a discussion on how to fix issues with sound and other things within the sim, make a new thread on the issue

Uhh, it's quite evident from the last 10 pages of posts that people who own this sim are getting help and support from Inertia on fixing issues and getting more detailed info. If you want to voice you opinion on how much FSone sucks, I'm totally fine with that, just do it in another thread. There are 3 more appropriate ones listed below. Thanks.

http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_4984442/tm.htm fsone vs afpd vs g3.5
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_5637966/tm.htm FS One or AFPD
http://www.rcuniverse.com/forum/m_4855472/tm.htm G3 vs FSone vs G3.5 (FSone comparison review)

Did we clear up the issue with the "white world" when creating panos? I used the PanoExample.zip file as a boilerplate for my pano and at first I could only get a listing with "No image Available" in the pano menu. After messing around I found that I had to convert the "Icon" and "LargeIcon" files from jpg to dds and then they would show up in the pano menu. When I select my pano and click Fly, the plane shows up in a black world. If I go back and convert all my jpg tiles to dds files, the plane shows up in a white world. Do all 3 image folders (high, medium and low) have to have images in them? Currently I only have images in the "high" folder.

Thx

Ken-

Michael,

Assume you will be in Toledo for the weekend. If so, where can a person find you on Friday. I would like to look you up so I can put a real face to your name when reading your input. AFAICS, your contribution to this whole process has been great.

Ken,
I think you may have missed a step. Read over the FAQ again and you will find a section that refers to modifying the DOM file (especially this section)
[Images]
NumHorizontal_High = 8
NumVertical_High = 4
NumHorizontal_Med = 8
NumVertical_Med = 4
NumHorizontal_Low = 8
NumVertical_Low = 4

These are the numbers of tiles you have for each folder high, medium and low. You only need to have one with any images.
And the field file:
)especially this section)
; FLD File

Description = VT2cargarage

IsAPano = 1
UseSkydome = 0

DOM = VT2cargarage.dom
ELE = VT2cargarage.ele

These items must refer to your unique description.

And lastly you need to have the quality slider in the video graphics options at the position you have the tiles in the folder for.

Give it another try.
Scott

Thanks much Scott! Sure nuff, it was one of those. Looks like the culprit was the reference to the DOM and ELE file in the FLD file. I didn't see those and the note in the FAQ wasn't really detailed in what to modify only that you needed to change it. It's cool, seems like most is self explanatory. I take it the ELE file is for ground texture? Anyone know how to collect the data needed for mapping this out? Collision maps don't seem to be obvious to me either. I assume I need to map these coordinates out. Is it possible to mark parts of the photo opaque? In other words a wall or tree so that the plane disappears behind it?

Now I just need to figure out how to get my pano to a higher quality. Currently 4096x2048 and thought that would be enough but guess not.

Thanks again

Ken-

Hey Ken, Glad that worked.
Collision map? I haven't worked on that yet, I'll leave it to Brian and Michael to answer. Are you a Photshop user? if so I give you the how to on slicing this image up into the necessary peices. Couldn't be any easier, well I suppose it could be but than everyone would do it!
Let me know.
Going out to try to get rid of pesky sticky collective on CPPro.
Scott

Scott, thanks again. Nah, I can't afford PS. I'm a GIMP guy. Took me awhile but I figured out how to do it pretty easily in GIMP. I'm actually looking into scripting it to make it even faster.

I'm interested in doing some really well done panos so I'd like to be able to spend the time and get them totally perfect. Hopefully we can get more info here.

Ken-

Hi Ken

Getting panos perfect is not always too easy... using a panoramic tripod head would help a lot, but these are extremely expensive, unless you have some means of making your own. I've seen an article on a DIY pano head made from wood and scraps, and I guess this is the way to go if you will be making one or two panos. The reason why these pano heads give good results is that it decreases the work load of stitching software dramatically by virtually eliminating parallax errors.

Taking the pano photos when the sun is at a high point in the sky (near noon) helps too as the tripod and your shadow is smaller and therefore easier to edit out.

The first two panos that I made took more than a hundred 8M pixel photos - I wanted to get as much quality into the pano as possible, and therefore the photos were taken at a longer focal length and that is why so many were needed. With good optics, shorter focal length and high mpixels, less photos would be required to construct your pano, at a very acceptable image quality.

Also, remember to set your camera's exposure levels manually to ensure that it remains the same for all shots. It's also a good idea to use a fairly small aperture size as the depth of field would then be longer and therefore more of the photo is in focus, which will also simplify the stitching process, especially with the process of control point identification.

I've also read somewhere that it is a mistake to specify your desired resolution (i.e. 8192 pixels wide) in the stitching software as they often utilize bad interpolation routines. To preserve your image quality better, specify your end result to be large, and resize the output pano using image software like Gimp or PS. The downside of this is that the stitching process takes much much longer to complete.

I hope this was of help.


Regards

I Would Like To See Hanger 9's new 100cc 260 be added to the planes And please make it free or maybe add that and a few more planes in the next 1.6 patch?

I'd love to be there, but this year I'm not going to make it. The good news - We're pretty busy working on new models. Horizon might be letting out some news on that at Toledo, but I'm not sure about that.

Michael

Brazz,

Thanks for the tip. Yeah I've got a homeade pano head. Very easy to make once you understand what they do. When you first see one it's sort of hard to figure out what it does! I've found that even with a pano head that many of the stitchers don't work that well in auto mode. So far PTgui has been working best for me but I have to manually edit the pano using data I write down as I shoot the pano so I know where every shot was taken and at what degree from center. I'm using 107, 5mp photos currently.

Good tip on the output res, I shall try that one. Using Enblend to do the blending virtually eliminates the issues with different exposure settings between photos. I do lock down my settings but I've found that when I forget and blend with Enblend, I can't tell the difference.

Ken-

wow,
I think this is a great thread. I have owned G3.5 for a while but bought FSONE to see for myself the difference. they are both very good sims. I gave the G3.5 to a friend to help him out and kept the FSone for myself. It seems to handle 3D a little better in my openion, but. . . this is not an openion thread so....

I am hoping that someone could give me a crash course in setting up an airplane ect... I am no novice in the RC world, but am not a computer guy.

My goal: To edit the 540 to be as close to my 260 50cc as posible. PLEASE do not state the obvious, save your breath and our time.

What i would like to change the 540 to:

1. 29% or 87inch wingspan
2. 3 3/4 inch from LE CG ( i know it will be different because of the different wings, but it will give me a start on moving it back and forth for IMAC routines)
3. Make the weight at 16lbs 2oz
4 DA 50 or at least a 22x8 prop that ranges from 1600 to 7400 would be perfect
5. be able to change the throw settings in the computer so i could use the included controller instead of my comp. radio
6. how to change the thrust angle of the engine
7. how to change the lateral ballance (or add weight to one wing tip or the cg for the lateral - either or)

I am not very good with computers, my wife is but she does not understand the options. . . and frankley i dont really eather. I.e.... the CG for the wing is at 0.007 ( i think ) but that is in feet. . . i tried to change it from .002 to .009 and i honestly could not tell the amount of change in the air. I know it did change it but it did not seem propo to actual changes in my planes. DO NOT ATTACK ME i know that it can not be perfect, but i am just a little beffuttled and seemed overwhealmed by the options. Im not complaining just trying to understand.

to conclude if someone could translate the questions i have to how to actually do it in the sim. . . i would be more then greatful and more then willing to make a long distance phone call if that is easier. I have had great success with this sim and think it is almost right on the money. . . Now if i could just create the characturistics of one of my 50cc planes. . . it couldnt get any better!

Thanks Gentlemen for your patience

What you want can probably be done and the majority of it is in the Edit menus for the aircraft. Most of the standard stuff is easy to figure out but much of it is a bit unclear to many of us accept InertiaSoft since there currently isn't a manual that documents any of it.

I'd begin by selecting the closet representation of your plane and rescaling to your chosen dimensions. From the main menu in FSone, click on Aircraft, select a model that is a close representation of yours, click Copy and give it a descriptive name. Select the newly copied aircraft and choose edit then choose Scaling (size/wt). Much here should be self explanatory. What isn't obvious non of us know because we don't have a manual. Once your done scaling the list on the left should point you in the right direction. Mass will allow you to fine tune the weight and CG, Propulsion will allow you to select a motor and prop, Sounds are just what you want the engine to sound like, Servos allow you to change endpoint, angle, travel etc..... If anything this should get you going.

$.02

Ken-

Hi. I'm a lurker here and have learned a lot, thanks to all including the gripers. When you gripe, most people responding to you offer a lot more good advice. Some good for the gripers, and some not so inviting. The one thing I have learned here because of the gripers is that the support people don't respond in kind, but they usually give good support to them as well. Way to go FS1 support people. :-) Don't let them get under your skin.

Now then, I too have a sound problem and have tried FS1 V1.0.5.a and it did not help. When I first installed FS1, I went right to the upgrades to 1.0.5 and had no sound problems. Recently, I notice the sound is missing from some of the same planes that used to have good sound. It would appear that I am experiencing a gradual degradation in the software, because now planes that have retractable gear load with the gear up. I tried loading the planes with every switch in every different combination as possible. Still no gear down. Previously, if I loaded a plane and the gear switch was in the retract position, I could simply flip the switch and the gear would extend and the plane assumed the take-off position. Now the planes (all that I have tried) either load in a partial extended condition or fully retracted based on the gear switch. I can flip the switch and the gear will fold and extend but never extends all the way.

BTW

I have not added/changed any system settings, nor changed any driver, or anything for that matter. The one thing I did do was install a program that failed to work. I could not get it off the system so I did a restore point to the time just before its install, which is a point where FS-1 worked flawlessly. I have an AMD 1800 MHz cpu, 1-Gig fast ram, nVidia geforce 4400 video card which gives me a very nice frame rate and it looks perfect without jitter or any kind of a stumble. I did have to upgrade the driver though to get FS-1 to work. The sound is a six channel AC97 that worked flawlessly before the sound disappeared.

What a shocker! When having this problem, I have turned my system off dead and back on several times. Mainly, because I have to sleep at night. I had just sent the original msg about my sound problem and now the sound is Ok. I didn't even reload FS1. I let it stay in the background because I was composing this message. I went back to FS-1, reloaded the plane I was having trouble with, and the sound is now perfect. Houston, we have a problem... SPOOKS! Since I haven't done ANYTHING, I have to assume that this will be an ongoing problem. I'll let you know.

WOW! I did exactly the sam thing as the last post. I left FS1 running in the background and added to this message. Then I go back to FS1 and simply click the 'FLY' icon on the screen. Now I have no engine sound again. YEP! SPOOKS!

This is the last addition to this msg. While I was practicing touch and goes, the motor sound was perfect. Then I had a crackup. I reset, opened the throttle, and noticed immediately that the motor sound had disappeared. Everything else was still working perfectly. BTW, the crackup sounds are always there even when the motor sounds quit. I sure hope someone can fix this thing.