Byron F-16 Turbine Conversion
10-26-2013, 08:06 AM
#101
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Lots of info back in the earlier pages.. Read them carefully
Trev
10-26-2013, 08:07 AM
#102
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All I have done is strip the nitro stuff out. I have some nice retracts that came out of the same size Cermark F16 but just figured the front nose gear is 1in to short. But I just got a new set of trailing link struts for my falcon 120 from dream works and the nose gear will work great and is only $70
I figured I would sheet the foam wings with thin flight skin as it's strong and light. I fly off grass so a trailing link nose and flaps are my top concerns. I like the way byron made the Ali work so I'm going to keep that set up but modify the Ali's to act only as flaps. And use the flight skin to cover over the top of them so from the top you won't see them. This should help prevent flutter. Be careful as to not mess up the airfoil, I used to add carbon fiber rod to the leading edge and insert a carbon fiber .014 x 1/2 x 3" strip diagonally in a slot where the aileron is cut out from the wing. Then covered the wings with 3 layers of 000 silk span and white glue thinned 50% with water. Kept the airfoil the same and added virtually no weight. Plus was stronger than He!!. Did the same trick on the stabs and rudder/Fin.
I marked the the cg at 3 1/4 from main former. And cut a 6in hatch 3in behind the former from the bottom to build the turbine mount and exhaust set up. And so I can get my hands in to fix add material for the elevators.
So already got the upgraded rudder fourmers and the elevator servos are in the good place.
So can I just epoxy some carbonfiber rod in the elevator tubes to make them better? Back in the day I used to epoxy a music wire inside the elevator tubes , worked great. Never lost a stab after that!!
Im im going to get a sheet of light ply to build my mounts and braceing. Should I use 5mm or 3mm ply
I figured I would sheet the foam wings with thin flight skin as it's strong and light. I fly off grass so a trailing link nose and flaps are my top concerns. I like the way byron made the Ali work so I'm going to keep that set up but modify the Ali's to act only as flaps. And use the flight skin to cover over the top of them so from the top you won't see them. This should help prevent flutter. Be careful as to not mess up the airfoil, I used to add carbon fiber rod to the leading edge and insert a carbon fiber .014 x 1/2 x 3" strip diagonally in a slot where the aileron is cut out from the wing. Then covered the wings with 3 layers of 000 silk span and white glue thinned 50% with water. Kept the airfoil the same and added virtually no weight. Plus was stronger than He!!. Did the same trick on the stabs and rudder/Fin.
I marked the the cg at 3 1/4 from main former. And cut a 6in hatch 3in behind the former from the bottom to build the turbine mount and exhaust set up. And so I can get my hands in to fix add material for the elevators.
So already got the upgraded rudder fourmers and the elevator servos are in the good place.
So can I just epoxy some carbonfiber rod in the elevator tubes to make them better? Back in the day I used to epoxy a music wire inside the elevator tubes , worked great. Never lost a stab after that!!
Im im going to get a sheet of light ply to build my mounts and braceing. Should I use 5mm or 3mm ply
Last edited by Terry Holston; 10-26-2013 at 08:11 AM.
10-26-2013, 09:40 AM
#106
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Thanks guys. I guess the biggest question I have. Is how do you sheet the stock byron wings then fiberglass, how do you account for the thicker wings when it meets up to the fuse? Dose it look odd? That's why I was thinking useing flight skin on the top as it's real thin.
10-26-2013, 03:01 PM
#108
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Mike I use Hysol E-20HP It has almost the same properties as the regular stuff(cant remember what its called) but cost much less and sets in 1 hour apposed to 12hrs.
Here's a couple of pics showing how Im going to box the fuse in. They are not glued in yet.. but the servo mounts are. Im using 1/4" steel rod for the elevator shafts.
Here's a couple of pics showing how Im going to box the fuse in. They are not glued in yet.. but the servo mounts are. Im using 1/4" steel rod for the elevator shafts.
10-26-2013, 03:14 PM
#109
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If your pipe is say 3" inside the plane... you could always just make a tin protector larger than the end of the pipe and mount it to the fuse. Say.. one inch bigger all around. Its only there so you dont burn the fiberglass on start up. After that it should not be a problem. From what Ive read its best to have the end of the pipe at least 1/2" inside the plane anyways. It helps draw the hot air inside the plane out the rear.
10-26-2013, 03:33 PM
#114
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There should be a bottom former for F3.
The ball and cap is a bad idea(sorry) but they are known to easily pop off. Best to use an encapsulated ball and socket.
I like your choice of retract.. Same as mine
The ball and cap is a bad idea(sorry) but they are known to easily pop off. Best to use an encapsulated ball and socket.
I like your choice of retract.. Same as mine
Last edited by Vettster; 10-26-2013 at 03:35 PM.
10-26-2013, 03:37 PM
#116
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Bottom former for f3? Any pics?
ya cheap stuff is just what was on it. I'm alctuly looking throw my servos right now to see wich I want to put on the tail
I was going to use spectrum 6030 but used them in a 33% Katana I just finished.
This is old girl has futaba S5101 servos x4 at a wiping 54oz.
ya cheap stuff is just what was on it. I'm alctuly looking throw my servos right now to see wich I want to put on the tail
I was going to use spectrum 6030 but used them in a 33% Katana I just finished.
This is old girl has futaba S5101 servos x4 at a wiping 54oz.
10-26-2013, 03:46 PM
#118
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I hate to say it but old school is the way for this bird. I'm going with a heavy AMT 180 bumped up to 17.5 pounds
Im still low budget and picked up 2 very nice AMT180s 1 for $400 and the other for $450. One came with a nice AMT air / auto start box that I opened up added a car relay to with a Castel EBC set at 10v (box runs off of 3s) so I added some $30 electric starters with $5 of brass from a Jet Joe 1800 turbine to conver from air start. So now I can get this old girls started In 6sec. As the box has its own propane, glow driver, and electric starter that runs auto
the 2nd motor is in a. Very old CAI Razor that is a blast! And I just got a used old P80 for $500 that is going in my new Falcon 120
I know this motor is heavy but is what I got.
Whats killing me Is I had a Cermark F16 this size messed up by someone eles that I sold for parts. so I know what this thing should look like inside.
Im still low budget and picked up 2 very nice AMT180s 1 for $400 and the other for $450. One came with a nice AMT air / auto start box that I opened up added a car relay to with a Castel EBC set at 10v (box runs off of 3s) so I added some $30 electric starters with $5 of brass from a Jet Joe 1800 turbine to conver from air start. So now I can get this old girls started In 6sec. As the box has its own propane, glow driver, and electric starter that runs auto
the 2nd motor is in a. Very old CAI Razor that is a blast! And I just got a used old P80 for $500 that is going in my new Falcon 120
I know this motor is heavy but is what I got.
Whats killing me Is I had a Cermark F16 this size messed up by someone eles that I sold for parts. so I know what this thing should look like inside.
12-15-2013, 06:44 AM
#122
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Well the flight skin went ok for my first time. I used the gorlia glue first and found it a pain and took 4 hours to dry
and the glue would try to expand wear not fully clamed. So on the smaller parts I started useing very little foam safe ca. Works great!
With the ca parts they were about 90% ready for paint the gorlia glue parts took one very thin skim coat and a few primer coats/sandings
i put the servo in the foam rudder and in the wings
also added 1 carbon spar in each wing and wood door Robart hinges. I don't think it was need thow
so can I get a pic if were you are putting your motor compaired to CG and were you think your fuel tanks are going.
Thanks mike
and the glue would try to expand wear not fully clamed. So on the smaller parts I started useing very little foam safe ca. Works great!
With the ca parts they were about 90% ready for paint the gorlia glue parts took one very thin skim coat and a few primer coats/sandings
i put the servo in the foam rudder and in the wings
also added 1 carbon spar in each wing and wood door Robart hinges. I don't think it was need thow
so can I get a pic if were you are putting your motor compaired to CG and were you think your fuel tanks are going.
Thanks mike